3 link VS. Wishbone front arms?

[zjfabn]

Whats the advantages and disadvantages between the two?

This would be for the front on a ZJ with the LP D30 and both would bolt to a new crossmember with a trackbar ...obviously.
I know the 3 link would cost less in parts and the upper mount on top of the diff is a weak point for a 3 link (I might add a bridge ...depending) but is there a functionality difference?

Thanks!

[IndyZJ]

How well do you think a wishbone is going to work with a panhard bar? Or did you mean radius arms?

Front suspension has been discussed at length on here. Also search on pirate4x4. You have some reading to do.

[zjfabn]

How well do you think a wishbone is going to work with a panhard bar? Or did you mean radius arms?

Front suspension has been discussed at length on here. Also search on pirate4x4. You have some reading to do.

Forgive me. I thought a wishbone was another name for radius arms.

Like this,



I know its been covered extensively. Sometimes I just dont feel like or have the time to search. Just pass this up if you dont feel like answering.

[SirFuego]

Radius arms work, but a true 3 link can really allow you to get desired characteristics. Expect to do a lot of reading though to get the most out of a 3 link. If they haven't released it already Clayton's will he selling a front 3 link.

[zjfabn]

Radius arms work, but a true 3 link can really allow you to get desired characteristics. Expect to do a lot of reading though to get the most out of a 3 link. If they haven't released it already Clayton's will he selling a front 3 link.

Ive built a few 3 links. They work awesome. I have someone now that wants me to build a radius arm. Ive just never done a radius arm and was wondering what the functioning difference was so I could explain the two to him. It seems to me that the 3 link would stay more in position while moving up and down. While the radius would want to clock more. Thus giving it worse driving characteristics. (for the lack of better words) Is that it or am I missing something else?

[IndyZJ]

Radius arm cons: binding (they try to turn the axle into a torsion bar under articulation), thus making them traditionally hard on bushings; unloading; typically poor geometry that changes dramatically through suspension travel; only two link mounts and bolts holding everything in (not including the panhard, but this is rarely an issue either way).

Radius arm pros: usually easier to set up and fit under the rig if you want ~36" long links hung off of the trans crossmember; often easier to keep them out of the way of exhaust, starters, etc. They're simpler to install - that's about it. They'll give the feeling of more stability given identical roll centers since they axle acts like a sway bar, but at the expense of accelerated bushing wear.

With a properly setup 3 link w/ panhard bar, you can eliminate the binding and geometry issues associated with radius arms for a setup that will perform better in virtually every situation. About the only con to a good 3 link (vs. radius arms) is fitting the upper link into what can be a tight space and the added complexity of burning in another link mount in the appropriate spot on the body side.

The aftermarket has proven that radius arms will more or less do the job for a lot of applications, but they are not ideal. If he just wants to cruise the mall or do moderate wheeling, radius arms would be just fine and save you some time and labor. If he's set on radius arms, make sure he's aware of potential bushing issues so he doesn't come whining to you when it starts spitting them out. IIRC, Fuego runs relatively limited travel on Clayton's radius arms and bushing wear hadn't been an issue for him as of the last time this came up.

That should just about cover it.

[zjfabn]

Radius arm cons: binding (they try to turn the axle into a torsion bar under articulation), thus making them traditionally hard on bushings; unloading; typically poor geometry that changes dramatically through suspension travel; only two link mounts and bolts holding everything in (not including the panhard, but this is rarely an issue either way).

Radius arm pros: usually easier to set up and fit under the rig if you want ~36" long links hung off of the trans crossmember; often easier to keep them out of the way of exhaust, starters, etc. They're simpler to install - that's about it. They'll give the feeling of more stability given identical roll centers since they axle acts like a sway bar, but at the expense of accelerated bushing wear.

With a properly setup 3 link w/ panhard bar, you can eliminate the binding and geometry issues associated with radius arms for a setup that will perform better in virtually every situation. About the only con to a good 3 link (vs. radius arms) is fitting the upper link into what can be a tight space and the added complexity of burning in another link mount in the appropriate spot on the body side.

The aftermarket has proven that radius arms will more or less do the job for a lot of applications, but they are not ideal. If he just wants to cruise the mall or do moderate wheeling, radius arms would be just fine and save you some time and labor. If he's set on radius arms, make sure he's aware of potential bushing issues so he doesn't come whining to you when it starts spitting them out. IIRC, Fuego runs relatively limited travel on Clayton's radius arms and bushing wear hadn't been an issue for him as of the last time this came up.

That should just about cover it.

It all makes perfect sense. Exactly what I needed to know. Thank you!

[SirFuego]

IIRC, Fuego runs relatively limited travel on Clayton's radius arms and bushing wear hadn't been an issue for him as of the last time this came up.

Yep. I was running ~ 5.5" lift (4.5" coils, 1" spacer) with 5" of extra bumpstops (stacked hockey pucks) and the limit straps were setup to just before the coils unseated. After some use, the limit straps stretched to where the coil just barely unseats. This was with a HP30. I'm swapping in a HP60 and I'm not quite sure how everything is going to pan out. I have tossed around the idea of changing to a true 3 link, but I'll admit that my radius arms work well and I don't really have many complaints about them. That said, it could also be because I don't know any better, so maybe the unloading my radius do on hills would be more noticeable if I ran a "better" suspension.

To be honest, I can't really run much more droop anyways or else my driveshaft would bottom out on the crossmember (common problem on 93s, but I haven't notched my crossmember like many others have.