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Anyone use the long arm kit from rough country? Or have any input on it. 1000 bux for F/R long arms is kinda hard to beat. But is it that cheap cause its crap.
Iv broken the upper control arm mounts now so I gotta upgrade. So I was gunnna go the rough country way or just do the rear claytons kit for now then upgrade the front later
you can get the front long arm upgrade from Ironrock Offroad for 600 dingers......oh and what the hell are you driving?? kinda helps people answer your questions when we know what friggin vehicle you have.
dont like the ironrock set up, which is why i didnt mention it
for a ZJ, my bad
Doesn't look like anyone has tried it. This group is primarily comprised of homebrew, claytons, and recently Ironrock long arm users.
Bite the bullet, buy the arms, try it out, and report back. Someone has to be the first, afterall.
Here is a link to a guy who just got them
http://www.nagca.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44084
I've heard about people having issues with there being too much play in the X-flex joints -- causing a clunking noise. Not sure if it has been fixed, but I would recommend looking into it on other sites as I don't think there is much at all about those joints here.
I'd recommend posting up your findings for future search purposes.
Keep in mind that of any off-the-shelf kits, Clayton's rear 4 link offers the most flexibility in future axle swaps.
Last edited by SirFuego; 06-08-2011 at 11:00 AM.
I am running the rough country long arms on my zj. so the the kit works great but the joints do rather suck! But the kit has held up great taking a beating on hells revenge, poison spider, and steel bender just last weekend. I feel like the joints are the only real pain unless you have to drop the transmission then you have to drop the entire front belly pan and such to do it.
Hey gertsch have you looked into replacing the ends with something better? What is clunking? Is the sleeve in the joint moving or the sleeve to the bolt. Also it's hard to see on their website pictures one end is a rubber bushing and the other a Johnny Joint. Is that correct?
One end is a bushing, other is their X-Flex, which is similar but not the same as a Johnny Joint
Supposedly they redesigned the X-flex joint over previouis versions, plus it is rebuildable.
Looks like 1-1/4 threads on the joints so other style can probably be installed.
RC said there is enough adjustment in the arms to go up to 6 inch, but I would add an IRO spacer on the rear.
I have the RC long arm on my WJ. Previous onwer loved RC,lol. The rear does have an odd bump noise, really annoying....... Thought is was just the shocks, they are on there way out. Ill check out the joint and report back. Oh, this kit is only three months old. From what I have read in other forums, currie joints are direct upgrade..
Last edited by ThreeEs99; 02-03-2013 at 01:57 PM.
Really new around here so I can't post a new thread. Don't really intend to hijack the thread, but was hoping to get some fresh perspective on LA lift options for an '04 WJ Overland.
I am currently a TJ owner (but selling it) and recently bought the WJ. My TJ is lifted on 33" BFG KM2s and I wanted to do the same with the WJ, except maybe some AT tires as this will be a daily driver. Looked around and think there are 3 or 4 options for the 6" lift that would be needed to fit 33's:
1. Clayton kit - is what everyone recommends, but I can't weld so would prefer a bolt on kit. Called around a few places in Dallas but none want to take this on so I will likely pick a do it myself option.
2. Rough Country 4.5" kit - people say this can be stretched to 6", but I suppose I would be piecing it all together part by part. Also, there are mixed feelings about the quality of the bushings. Most of that was from long ago so I'm pretty confident that isn't really an issue any more. Haven't priced the components one by one, but would be curious if the substantial savings is still there when going the piece by piece route.
3. Rusty's Offroad kit - has everything you need but is much more expensive. Does have the JJ/Heim joints on both ends of the LCAs and all three points of the a-arm. Not sure if this will make for a rough ride, considering this is a DD.
4. IRO - not really digging this one as it doesn't do much with the rear and the front arms aren't a true radius arm. I have to believe that the radius arm design is tried and true and this is just using some shortcuts for budget minded folks. But then again, the 6" kit is about as much as the RC 4.5" kit, so why would I want this one?
Any opinions on whether to do the RC or Rusty's? Last year I wheeled the TJ a total of 3 times and would do about the same with the WJ. I'm not into breaking stuff so i take it easy most of the time. I want the 33's mostly to be a lot higher than the cars around me on the street, and I feel that is the way a Jeep should sit. It truly will live most of its life as a mall crawler.
Haven't found anything else so if there is another option, let me know so I may consider it.
Much appreciated.
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Rusty could not pay me to run anything he makes. It sounds to me like you would be well server by either the RC or the IRO kit and your light wheeling style would not really require the benefits of Clayton's kit. The reality is there is no reason you could not run 33's with the 4.5" kit. The manufactures advertise tire size "fit" with absolutely no adjustment of link length and no trimming. If you fine tune your kit you will be happy with the 4.5" and 33's. Just know there will be some trimming to do in the front. It will provide a lower center of gravity and likely better on road manners as well.
Is there not a concern with trimming the rear when running 33s on a 4.5" lift? The reason I ask is I planned to put in a new front bumper but wasn't going to do anything with the rear bumper.
I would prefer the lower center of gravity and run 33s. My 33" KM2s run small (more like 32" tall) loaded with the Jeep and running about 24 lbs of pressure, which is what I have it set at for the street. Not sure yet what AT tires will measure when loaded on the Jeep, but I will be happy if I don't need to trim at all and can run with the stock front bumper for a while before dropping the cash to upgrade.
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Read the mission statement and the stickies before posting. Jeepsunlimited, Jeepforum, or nagca would be a better fit for you judging by your posts in this thread and opposition toward trimming. A bit of searching and reading here would give you a good idea of what each company/ kit has to offer. With the exception of a few newer members, no one here would recommend 6" of lift for 33s. This forum does not spoon feed.
I did read the stickies, but I was looking for more recent information since most of the posts seem to be one to two years old. From what I can tell, vendors do update their products based on user experiences, so a fresh perspective should be welcome.
But since it is not, I guess I am in the wrong place. It's the old paradox... how do you get a job that requires experience when you need that job to get the experience.
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Bumper cover trimming both front and rear will be an absolute necessity. It is likely you will have to trim the front fenders and inner fenders as well.
Well i just bought the rough country 4" upgrade lift and as soon as i can, i will start a project thread, i hate being new and not being able to post. Anybody know how many post do i need to start a new thread?
Nope I don't remember off hand . Just keep finding threads that meet what your looking for and make some posts.
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