33x10 on stock ZJ

[djlarroc]

What's up guys. New here, but I have built a few xjs before. Just sold my last one and getting into zjs.

I've done a lot of searching on various forums and google. Not much info on what I want to do, and some of the guys referred me to MC.

I'll hopefully be picking up a '97 5.2 here soon and was thinking about how I'm going to go about the build.

My plan:

1. 33x10.50 on stock wheels & spacers, or maybe a 15x7 steel w/4" bs.
2. Major (but clean) fender trimming/pinch weld flattening.
3. Fixed 3" control arms (LCA/UCA), or adjustables to move the axles outward to keep tires from rubbing inner fender wells.
4. Track bars - not sure. Probably keep stock?
5. Bumpstopping.

Also going to do front/rear lockers of some sort and some armor, but will leave details for later.

Main concern is:

1) Will this work?
2) How will it drive?

Found a few threads, but not much info on off-road performance. I don't want to cut way too much on the fenders, only to need a budget boost after all, or F>R swap.

Here is a pic of a member on another forum. That's stock, w/a 33x12.50 & trimming.

[IndyZJ]

It's doable, but you won't have much uptravel (~3-4" depending on how persuasive you are with a BFH) at stock height. An extra inch in the front control arms would help a ton and still keep steering issues at bay. The back is fine where it is stock, just trim up to the door line all the way around. Do that front trim and go to town on the back of the inner wheel well with a sledge. There is a lot of room to be gained there. You will have to trim or remove the corners of the front sheetmetal "bumper" and add a considerable amount of extra bumpstop. Get new (quality) shocks for your new compressed height and plan on replacing all of the control arms and steering linkage sooner or later.

[djlarroc]

Thanks for the reply. Glad someone could chime in.

Yes, my plans include new heim steering to get rid of the y as well and brace the steering box. I know 33s will do some damage.

Seen a few xjs run 35x12.50 on 3.5 w/trim & bumpstop, so I figured this may work. Like you said though, up travel is a concern, but as long as I have droop, should be decent. I may just get the bb first and pull it off, and trim more as I see fit.

I want to wheel it like this and if I end up going higher to 4", then I'll do f/r LAs..

[it usually runs fine]

The main thing is if you put some kinda locker in the front and rear with a budget boost(not only pucks but longer shocks) with a decent 31" like a super swamper ltb that thing will go anywhere you need to be. Don't worry about steering replacement and all the fine print just go wheel it. Once you get 33's it's gunna open the can of worms, you will need adjustable arms to get the caster where it needs to be, adjustable track bar on the front and extended on the rear and a deeper gear ratio to save your transmission. Setting a zj up the CORRECT way for safe road travel and capability off road IS NOT CHEAP. I recommend you keep it simple until you are ready to spend some jack. If you still want to lift it on 33's I can show you my pics of my zj on 33's with stock everything except shocks and boost pucks. It was good offroad and a death trap on the road. It definately possible though with little money invloved.

[IndyZJ]

Once you get 33's it's gunna open the can of worms, you will need adjustable arms to get the caster where it needs to be, adjustable track bar on the front and extended on the rear and a deeper gear ratio to save your transmission. Setting a zj up the CORRECT way for safe road travel and capability off road IS NOT CHEAP. I recommend you keep it simple until you are ready to spend some jack. If you still want to lift it on 33's I can show you my pics of my zj on 33's with stock everything except shocks and boost pucks. It was good offroad and a death trap on the road.

I was perfectly happy with my ZJ on the road with 2" of lift and 33s, even with "stock" control arms and steering. The only special thing I did driving-wise (other than remembering it's a Jeep) was turn OD off until I got to the interstate to help compensate for the 3.73s. That's with no front sway bar and longer end links on the rear. My springs are slightly firmer than what most run as they are 3" Skycrappers minus a coil and a half and I don't run generic shocks. With 4 degrees of caster and 1/8" toe in at the tires it tracks great and drives well down the road as long as nothing is worn out. If parts are worn out and/or your alignment is off, it makes no difference what size tires you're on - it will drive like shit.

Yeah, it has more body roll than a 'vette and doesn't stop as fast, but it's a Jeep. It is not intolerable nor do I feel it is anywhere near unsafe. It drives better than a friend's ZJ a 4.5" RE Superflex kit and 33s. Lower gearing would be nice, but is not necessary nor does it affect the safety of the vehicle. Adjustable control arms and panhard bars are not necessary at 2" of lift height (especially not at stock height), but OP was planning on buying at least new control arms anyway.

[djlarroc]

Yeah I hear you guys.

I am willing to spend on the CAs just because, I think they will also flex better. Even w/bushings.

At stock height, or even 2", I probably won't need to mess w/the track bars right? If I did, I was thinking of getting the RE 1600 w/dbl shear mount for better flex. This is my first zj, tho, so anything I'm overlooking, let me know where I'm going to phugg up!

Here is my old xj at 4.5 on 34x10.50 LTB. Rear Aussie, front Truetrac. Stock bumpstops and trim. X-flex arms, no rubbing.


Had really good flex for SAs, decent road manners, and went everywhere. But on the long wheeling trips and when I had to use for work (bad weather days), it made me wanting a nicer rig.

I want 33s just to get the diffs up a bit. Big rocks in CO. I was going to try it out on 3:73s (I know the 5.2 helps a lil), and depending on power/mpg, re-gear to 4:56 when I locked it.

Indy, were you running 2" lift springs or a BB? I've never ran a BB before, does it make the truck sway a bit vs lifted springs? I like that the stock springs are soft and flexy tho...

[rstrucks]

At stock height, or even 2", I probably won't need to mess w/the track bars right?

At 2 inches of lift you shouldn't have to change out the TBs. You may have to relocate one of the mounts up front to keep it parallel with your new steering (drag link) though - just to keep bump steer to a minimum.

Nice XJ.

[ajmorell]

It's refreshing to see someone going the low COG route rather than 6" of lift just to fit 33's

[black_zj]

FYI, even aftermarket fixed arms wont do much, most if not all are only 1/16-1/4in longer than stock. If I knew 12 years ago what I know now, I may have done a lower lift setup with large tires.

[Jeeptech01]

How about the wj lca's IIRC they are longer, boxed, and arched for tire clearance.

Oooorrr you could run rustys adjustables. I have uca and lca with the flex ends and they were like 350 or thereabouts. I have had no issues with them.

And yea lcg big tires = win. IMO I wouldnt/havent built one any other way. There are also lots of things you can do to the undercarriage to give the better belly clearance that more lift gives. I did some in my WJ build and will be doing more in my XJ build but you can get some ideas of what is possible with some ingenuity.

[ajmorell]

And yea lcg big tires = win. IMO I wouldnt/havent built one any other way.

Agreed, like BlackZJ said, I wish I had known better...not that 33s and 4" of lift is outrageous but I bet I could've pulled it off with less.

[moparrr07]

if your going to be daily driving it with 2-3 inches of lift and stock trac bar you are going to want to relocate the trac bar mount cause otherwise it will bumpsteer, annoying on a dd

[djlarroc]

FYI, even aftermarket fixed arms wont do much, most if not all are only 1/16-1/4in longer than stock. If I knew 12 years ago what I know now, I may have done a lower lift setup with large tires.

That''s what I was thinking.. I vaguely remember 3" fixed arms only being slightly longer than stockers. I'd want to push the axles (at least the front) outward about 3/4 - 1". I've seen how some of the guys make the rear inner fender paper thin, so that may let me keep the rear axle where it's at.

How about the wj lca's IIRC they are longer, boxed, and arched for tire clearance.

Oooorrr you could run rustys adjustables. I have uca and lca with the flex ends and they were like 350 or thereabouts. I have had no issues with them...

Nice idea.. I'll have to find out the lengths on the WJ arms.. I'm sure I could find them cheap before spending on adjustables. Getting some flex joints in there would be nice though...

[djlarroc]

It's refreshing to see someone going the low COG route rather than 6" of lift just to fit 33's

I'm taking a peek at your build and see if I can find something for Indy's as well.

Thanks guys.

[ajmorell]

FWIW I think the WJ arms are wider than ZJ arms so I don't know if they will fit in the mounts...someone with a WJ might be able to verify that.

[Jeeptech01]

IIRC they are wider but you can grind them down a bit to fit. I used a 36 grit rol loc disc on my die grinder when I did the ones on my old XJ.

[IndyZJ]

I'm taking a peek at your build and see if I can find something for Indy's as well.

Thanks guys.

I don't have a thread of even pic of my ZJ. It's nothing special. Cue-Ball's "Money Pit" build shows how you need to trim to clear 33x12.5s with a BB. I would suggest trying to roll the rear sheetmetal under like Action Fab did in his recent build thread since it looks cleaner without a bunch of body work.

[djlarroc]

Cool! I'll take a look! They sold that '97 btw..Grrrr.. Was going to get it today...

[rm2fast]

What's up guys. New here, but I have built a few xjs before. Just sold my last one and getting into zjs.

I've done a lot of searching on various forums and google. Not much info on what I want to do, and some of the guys referred me to MC.

I'll hopefully be picking up a '97 5.2 here soon and was thinking about how I'm going to go about the build.

My plan:

1. 33x10.50 on stock wheels & spacers, or maybe a 15x7 steel w/4" bs.
2. Major (but clean) fender trimming/pinch weld flattening.
3. Fixed 3" control arms (LCA/UCA), or adjustables to move the axles outward to keep tires from rubbing inner fender wells.
4. Track bars - not sure. Probably keep stock?
5. Bumpstopping.

Also going to do front/rear lockers of some sort and some armor, but will leave details for later.

Main concern is:

1) Will this work?
2) How will it drive?

Found a few threads, but not much info on off-road performance. I don't want to cut way too much on the fenders, only to need a budget boost after all, or F>R swap.

Here is a pic of a member on another forum. That's stock, w/a 33x12.50 & trimming.

I sure miss that jeep building a limited xj now