Thinking about a 220 MIG.

[albersondh]

My 110 Lincoln is done at .188, and thats a stretch, usually 2 passes.... I have to fire up the 220 stick/TIG machine. But overhead SMAW; no thanks.


So I see this http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...2#BVRRWidgetID

and Im seriously thinking about it. Anybody used this machine (lincoln 180hd)? Your thoughts? I dont do production stuff, so a $2000+ MIG is a no go. Shit I only paid $2000 for my Chineeeees stick/TIG/plasma....

[brammabull69]

I have the same welder and it will weld anything you need to on a jeep project. I have welded many rear ends and everything.

[it usually runs fine]

Hobart 187. 700 bucks at tractor supply never loked back.

[brammabull69]

I was going to buy a Hobart 187 but I have a friend that works at Home Depot so, I only paid $520 for the Lincoln.

[albersondh]

Yup, I would be looking at a 200+A MIG, but I can get this for $525 right now. Just wanted to make sure its not junk, nice to get first hand opinions.

[downtowncb]

How can you get it for $525? I might go pick one up for that price.

[JordanA]

How can you get it for $525? I might go pick one up for that price.

Yeah, share the insider info with the entire class.

[albersondh]

Private party sale. Home Depot needs better "cyber Monday" sales..... $670 normal price, no $ break on cyber Monday?

[chadjans]

The Home Depot versions of the two small Lincoln welders have tapped voltages. A better comparision of the small welders across the brands (Lincoln, Miller and Hobart) is better completed using the Lincoln Powermig 140C and 180C.

[squashman702]

Hobart 187. 700 bucks at tractor supply never loked back.

They're going for $600 in NH.

[it usually runs fine]

They're going for $600 in NH.

Thats cheap. Go buy one they are years smoother than the Lincoln equivalent.

[downtowncb]

The Home Depot versions of the two small Lincoln welders have tapped voltages. A better comparision of the small welders across the brands (Lincoln, Miller and Hobart) is better completed using the Lincoln Powermig 140C and 180C.

What do you mean "tapped voltaes" are they limited somehow? What's the difference between the 180C and 180HD listed above?

[albersondh]

The "C" indicates that the machine is continuously variable. The voltage is infinatley adjustable via a potentiometer. Tapped uses a clicker switch to change the set of windings used, its cheaper to make them this way.

Im 10 years on the same 110 Lincoln and its tapped. I just adjust my physical welding speed to compensate if Im inbetween'ish clicks. For this reason I put the infinatley variable option in the nice to have category.

[downtowncb]

Ahh, thank you for the explanation. I've been using a friend's Lincoln 175 tapped for several years and wasn't even aware of the difference. Guess it's in the "nice to have" but not necessary category for me as well. I just used my welding technique to compensate.

[albersondh]

The guy just sold the 180HD..... Guess Im back shopping. Anybody have any reservations weding rear LA brackets to the uni-frame with a little 110? Like I mentioned before, getting good penitration on .188 has alway been an issue for me with this machine. Welding .188 to .188, or thicker stuff in general, I have been using 7018 on AC @ 100A with my SMAW/TIG/Plasma. Not really an option for uni-frame welding, so Im stuck using the 110. My TIG has one touch and two touch options for out of position, but without the pedal it still just ramps up to x amps, and this would be my first attempt at overhead TIG.....

[chadjans]

What do you mean "tapped voltaes" are they limited somehow? What's the difference between the 180C and 180HD listed above?

The HD are tapped the C are infinate output voltage adjustment.

A comparison of the similar machines: http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...1_autoset.html

Im 10 years on the same 110 Lincoln and its tapped.

For this reason I put the infinatley variable option in the nice to have category.

Is this how long have you been doing sheet metal work?

In the 10 years since you have purchased your machine they have have become the norm. Almost all the Millers are infinate. And most of the Hobarts are this way.

[chadjans]

Anybody have any reservations weding rear LA brackets to the uni-frame with a little 110?

I have been using 7018 on AC @ 100A with my SMAW/TIG/Plasma. Not really an option for uni-frame welding, so Im stuck using the 110. My TIG has one touch and two touch options for out of position, but without the pedal it still just ramps up to x amps, and this would be my first attempt at overhead TIG.....

Stay away from me on the roads.

Welding on suspension, tire mounts and recovery parts (winch mounts) are not training welds.

[it usually runs fine]

I have welded my brackets on my 8.8, two rear ends, four or five scratch built square driveshafts and a few bumpers with a little flux core 80 before I got my MIG. Not one single weld has given and these pieces have been put to the test, I completely trust my welds on a tiny machine like that, but I KNOW what I am doing and learned the techniques to carry metal and heat and how to properly tie in beads yadayadayada. Theres alot more to a successfull weld than getting it to " hold". I suggest you go burn some wire on scrap before you take to the jeep. Little machines can do big jobs you just have to take it easy on them because they have very low duty cycles. My little 80 amp is like 15%.

[albersondh]

Is this how long have you been doing sheet metal work?

In the 10 years since you have purchased your machine they have have become the norm. Almost all the Millers are infinate. And most of the Hobarts are this way.

I mentioned on at least one occasion that the point of going 220 180+ was because of issues fully penetrating .188, so sheet metal, yea lots of sheet metal, I make wind chimes and sell them at the swap meet next to tire carriers I make out of soup cans .

[albersondh]

I got a 210 Handler, free shipping and it came with a AL spool gun. My mix 120CF is out and Im too lazy to swap over the 80 from my 110 machine, so I dont get to use it untill tomarrow.... Built a cart from a $10 salvation army fileing cabenet and some Harbor Frieght casters. Made a 25' extension cord out of a $25 10g Ridged generator extension cord (Home Depot). I love the cart, used a cheap Home Depot job cart to make the last one, for my TIG machien and its a flimsy bitch. I got the cabenet idea when I boght the Hobart from Northern Tool, they sell a premade one thats similar.





Went to buy some .035 tips today (comes with .030 only). The shop I went to didnt have any "Hobart" tips, and the ones they gave me wont work. I dont think they carry Hobart stuff, Miller and Licolon only. Are there any tips other than Hobart specific that will work on a Hobart gun?

[ATL ZJ]

Hobart guns use Miller consumables. Look on the nozzles and tips for the small miller logo. I can't believe your welding shop doesn't know that...

That cart idea is bad ass. I might have to copy that if/when I acquire a TIG and a plasma.

[albersondh]

[QUOTE=ATL ZJ;304749]Hobart guns use Miller consumables. Look on the nozzles and tips for the small miller logo. I can't believe your welding shop doesn't know that...
[QUOTE]

Got Miller tips, thanks, and your right it seems to be pretty common knowledge that Miller is Hobart. I think maybe these guys dont get out much...
Threading in my first 8" spool of .035 and found that the feed motor is DOA. Feed was erratic with little to no tension on the spool/feed wheel, then it just stoped. Everything (tension) adjusted per the manual. Pulled the spool and grooved feed wheel to get a look at the armature end with no load. It starts to spin, then ramps down and just stops. Went through all the trouble shooting myself, contacted a local authorized repair guy, and went through all the simpe trouble shooting again over the phone. Had to take it into his shop..... The PCB looks fine, pretty sure the motor is FUBAR, but never made smoke or melting varnish stank sooo, maybe the pot? Whatever, pisses me off, my China TIG/Plasma was fine out of the box, and I have a lot of hours on the TIG with AC and DC with no problems. Build date on the Handler is 2010 so its not like it sat for a long time, not that it would make any difference. Brand loyal guys dont get mad Im not bashing the Bart, even the best shit can have issues I understand this. So my double-tri rears are on hold for another week, FAWWKKK!!

[albersondh]

Long story: http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtal...d=1#post396955

Short story: The PCB was bad. Its working great (so far) now.