WJ>ZJ Steering/brake conversion parts list .

[onegoodmason]

Coming down to the wire . I think I just about have it all minus a pc er 2 . Here's the list so far .

WJ knuckles
WJ calipers and mounting hardware
WJ brake pads
WJ ball joints
JKS spacers
WJ TRE's
Custom tie rods
WJ rotors (to be drilled 5 on 4.5)

Only part not mentioned is the wheel bearings . My searching gave mixed results . Some used ZJ bearings , some say 99-2006 TJ/XJ bearings . Reason behind this was to spacer the caliper properly to the center . Can anyone confirm using either and any issue associated with it .

It's ready to go , and I finally have some time off to finsih this . Anything to suggest or mention about the list , fire away

[Fzcruzer]

I am getting the required parts for this swap also. I am also going over the knuckle with the steering using the Goferit inserts. I am not sure about the unit bearings, I think I read in one thread that the later XJ unit bearings eliminated the need for the caliper spacers. Not sure how accurate that is though since I have not read it in many places. I am going to use the unit bearings that I have since the ones on my current axle are good and the ones on the HP30 that I am putting in are like new, I have no idea what years they are. I do not think using small spacers to center the caliper is a big deal.

[DJJordache]

I too am going to WJ parts and for this post I'm talking about using the akebono calipers and redrilled WJ rotors

I was going to reuse my 91-~99.33 unit bearings but was not comfortable with the caliper spacer idea, BUT I did get the parts to test it. the longer M12x1.25 x45mm bolts are hard to find and are not cheap and the spec'd spacers are a pain to find also. I'm NOT real comfortable with stacking washers either. The additional leverage the spacers would add might be negligible but I don't think I should be half-assing brakes with spacers...

I am now going to be using the ~99.33-06 unit bearings and got a deal on them through amazon for the Timkens. I can CONFIRM that with the welded JKS spacers, akebono calipers, redrilled rotors and these later bearings the rotor is perfectly centered in the caliper without needing spacers under he caliper.

[onegoodmason]

Yeah , spacers on the braking just doesn't work for me either . I'll get my bearings today

Thanks so much guys for the info . Hopefully , this list will be used . It's not out there in any forum I could find . I knew the ppl to ask would be on here .

[DJJordache]

you can get the tie rod and drag link from JKS to match the WJ tre's:
http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/me..._Code=FABParts

if you plan on using the WJ tre's for everything and are going over the knuckle with the goferit flips, you will want to get the right hand drive draglink tre at the knuckle since it has the bend in the opposite direction.

or you can get just the JKS tie rod and do a custom drag link since the WJ tre's on the draglink are limiting for flex. (there are posts about it on here) and use the chevy TRE's but this will require reaming the pitman and knuckle draglink holes, or just ream the pitman and get the ballistic fab chevy TRE insert for the knuckle

[Fzcruzer]

Good to know about the unit bearings, I will be getting the correct ones so I will not need the spacers. I have the JKS hub spacers and steering linkage that they sell for the WJ ends. I also bought the right hand drive draglink TRE. I need to go pull a set of knuckles and buy the rotors and calipers still.

[onegoodmason]

Guess I'll be getting the JKS tie rods . I have cut and tacked the stockers , but was intending to sleeve them for now also . Now they just get use to get it out of the shop until the right ones come along .

Not too worried about flex for my terrain , more mud than rocks . I'll try the WJ ends(mostly cause I got them already) out , if I have an issue , I'll deal with it then . Thanks for the advice though

[blackzj52]

i used the stock zj hubs.

had to weld a JKS spacer onto the wj hub to space everything out. when you weld that spacer on, you need to make 4 little 1 1/4" spacers made out of 1/4" steel to put between the caliper bracket and knuckle.


my draglink and track bar are not parallel, so i MIGHT need to get an over the axle bracket. i havnt gotten to drive my jeep enough yet to tell if the bump steer is that bad or not.

youll also need the jks shortened wj draglink and tie rod. along with those youll need to order the jamb nuts to fit the TRE's. you can get all those parts through kolak

heres some pics of my setup









no i did not do make those welds

[DJJordache]

yeah you need a OTA bracket bad

[onegoodmason]

Sweet , those pics are great Blackzj52 . Just what I wanted to see . Ya know , I'm gonna use the ZJ hubs I have for now and try spacing the caliper brackets like you did . If I have an issue , I'll know where to look .

To me , the track bar/drag link alignment doen't seem that far off at all when you look at the mounting points . I have a Clayton's bracket and t-bar . Damn bracket is dropped alot , more than the RE bracket I have on now , and I think yours is IRO ? . Looking at your lines , I might be right on the money with that .

Guess I'll put back the ZJ stuff and pull it out of the garage again until my TR's get here . Need to get the headers on the 5.9 and my other bay is full of crap for the house yet again .On a good note , I did get 4 new/2nd hand WJ ball joints for $60 on kijiji

[blackzj52]

yeah you need a OTA bracket bad

i figured i would. i know where to get the bracket, but no idea as to where to go to find the trackbar... any ideas?

edit: think this would work? im not near my zj to go take any measurements so im not sure if 26" is the right size or not?

Sweet , those pics are great Blackzj52 . Just what I wanted to see . Ya know , I'm gonna use the ZJ hubs I have for now and try spacing the caliper brackets like you did . If I have an issue , I'll know where to look .

To me , the track bar/drag link alignment doen't seem that far off at all when you look at the mounting points . I have a Clayton's bracket and t-bar . Damn bracket is dropped alot , more than the RE bracket I have on now , and I think yours is IRO ? . Looking at your lines , I might be right on the money with that .

Guess I'll put back the ZJ stuff and pull it out of the garage again until my TR's get here . Need to get the headers on the 5.9 and my other bay is full of crap for the house yet again .On a good note , I did get 4 new/2nd hand WJ ball joints for $60 on kijiji

good stuff, let me know if you have any questions
and yes i have the iro double shear trackbar

[onegoodmason]

So , Bump . I need more help .

Finally get everything together , go to install the WJ ball joints , not good , they are maybe 1/32 off and sloppily fit the hole . These were cheap chinese crap , so , I picked up some OEM Spicers . Again , loose fit .
I can't fit my ZJ ball joint back by hand , it would have to be pressed , so nothing is streched out of shape .

Comments , suggestions . They don't fit snug enough to even tack a weld on them .

[Mtn WJ]

Are they loose on the knuckle side or the C side of the axle?

The WJ ball joints are same size on the C side and slightly different taper on the knuckle side.

FYI
On my WJ I have done an OTK conversion and this should apply to WJ steering on a ZJ too.
I used 1 ton TREs on a straight tie rod between the knuckles. It does clear the diff cover no problem. I did have to trim a lot of area off the bottom the spring buckets but it worked great. I also have 1 ton ends on my drag link between the driopped pitman arm and the knuckle. In my case I raised the track bar to keep the track bar and drag link parallel. I went with the 1 tons after too many problems with getting the stock stuff to work in the OTK set up. I had a hard time getting the correct size and taper inserts on the tie rod. The drag link ends would fail sooner in the flip position than in normal postion.

My axle is made from an XJ HP center re-tubed to WJ width and using XJ Cs. I have stock WJ knuckles drilled for the 1 ton ends. I am using WJ ball joints from Napa. Internals are 30spline ARB and 30 spline shafts with 760 ujoints. No spacers needed on the unit bearings even with ABS rings.

[onegoodmason]

Taper is fine , it's the c-side that's not right .

I can't just fit the ZJ joint I pulled out back in , but the WJ joints , they don't bring up in nuthin , and I can move them around in the hole , there's play in it .

I mic'ed the ZJ and WJ , there is a slight difference . Anyone got a paticular brand they used ?

[Mtn WJ]

Strange?? Hopefully you can take them back.

I had an AutoZone set fail in less than a year after my factory set lasted 6 or 7 years. I went with Napa's premium set and so far almost two years later still good. I am not always a big Napa fan but in this case they worked out.

[onegoodmason]

The 2nd pair I picked up , NAPA premiums made by Spicer . I don't get it either . I pulled the original ball joints out 2.5 yrs ago personally , and properly .

Yes , they are returnable , I told the parts guy my issue and asked if no go , could they be returned .

thanks for your help MTN WJ

[Jeeptech01]

Subscribed for future use. Nice work guys.

[albersondh]

Is it just one of the C-holes, or all of them, that appear to be over sized for the WJ BJ's?

I would clean up the C-holes (its funny cause its kida like a-holes) and mic out the id's on all of them, at three points on each hole (out of round). Average those numbers and you know what BJ od you should be looking for (+.xxx for interferance fit). Easier than a dozen trips to/from NAPA.

I didnt see that you mentioned what axle these are going in, so I assume the OE D30? I think most often this steering/brake up-grade is done concurently with a HPD30 swap (thats how I did mine). Not sure if the C-hole size is different between any HP or LPD30? I doubt it, just the WJ knuckle tapper difference that I have been told about (never verified).

[onegoodmason]

I'm heading back out to pull everything from the other side .

The ZJ joint I pulled fit fine , a little easier to get out than the first time I changed them but still met some resistance . Like I said , I can press it back in , but , not do it by hand . The WJ ball joints , I can insert all the way by hand , and still have freeplay enough to wiggle them . If I let go , they fall out . If they even fit firm , I'd tack em , but it's way too much slack for that .

The only issue I see is the Spicer ball joints have no grooves on the sides , but , that matters not to the chinese stuff have . Now what , try Moog ?

The tapers are definately different from the ZJ ball joints . The ZJ's taper is narrower towards the threads , but , they are the same size towards the joint itself .

I have my drivers side mocked up using the ZJ joints . Nothing is torqued up , just needed to confirm everything was lining up properly . I finally get the ball joints and figure it's just put everything together and this happens . Of course , I figured I'd tackle the side that was untouched as it would be easier to finish with the newer stuff already in place .

Using the ZJ ball joints won't work , at least not for long . As a last resort , I will use them to get it bolted up and out of the garage . This jeep won't see the road till spring or later . Maybe the holes have been distorted , I will mic them to find out .

The axle itself it still stock , LP30 , I know . Again something I'm gonna change before it gets used . Tough to swing a HP 30 right now , knowing I won't find a gear match means even more loot . Xmas is a killer on the budget . So was this conversion to be honest . All new parts add up . All I used from the WJ were the knuckles . I if have to collect beer bottles I suppose I'll have to swing it . Guess I'll bring back the Spicer joints , buy a diff with that and use the chinese crap BJ's I got real cheap anyways , till they fail , then buy some new stuff . What's the odds of finding a 3:73 in a XJ .......... not great , but I will search . I have already reseached , some tow packages had them .

My only conclusion is the hole must be fubar . I can not find this issue anywhere

[Mtn WJ]

I seriously doubt it makes a difference but what year WJ are you ordering the BJs for?

I know 2001 WJ BJs fit an XJ C no problem. Maybe there is something different with new WJs. Just spit balling but maybe that is the issue.

[onegoodmason]

I seriously doubt it makes a difference but what year WJ are you ordering the BJs for?

I know 2001 WJ BJs fit an XJ C no problem. Maybe there is something different with new WJs. Just spit balling but maybe that is the issue.

I asked for 2000's . I looked up the parts on rockauto , same from 99-04 .

Great suggestion though

[93ZeeJ]

im currently doing this swap as well...

which BJ is it that is giving you trouble? the lower? upper? both?

the upper BJ is the same part number for ZJ and WJ .. it is only the lower BJ that is different between the 2

[onegoodmason]

im currently doing this swap as well...

which BJ is it that is giving you trouble? the lower? upper? both?

the upper BJ is the same part number for ZJ and WJ .. it is only the lower BJ that is different between the 2

Lowers . Still haven't confirmed the other side to be the same . Kinda wasn't in the mood to get right back at 'er .Today , I will .

[BLK97ZJ]

This is my setup. Chevy 1ton Flip
I'll be parting it out in a few weeks if anyone is interested.
The TRE's are ES2026R and ES2027L (You can see them on JCR's website.) and used the JKS hub spacers and OTK bracket. I also shortened KOR trackbar setup and i use a TJ pitman arm. Its a great setup, alot more stopping power with the bigger rotors. Oh and alittle trick i found out when drilling the new rotors, put the stock ZJ rotor in the back of the WJ one and they fit together perfect. Then just scribe or transfer punch the holes

[Mtn WJ]

These are the part numbers I have for the Napa WJ Ball Joints. 2001 WJ Laredo
Upper = 2601553 cost 53.99 each
Lower = 2601554 cost 80.44 each

No problems fitting with XJ Cs and WJ Knuckles.

These are the Advance Auto Ball Joint Part Numbers. They fit too.
Upper = TRW brand 15510519 or 104301 cost 49.99 each
Lower = 3534553 10458 cost 36.63 each

Hope this helps. BTW I think NAPA gives a better BJ than Advance Auto Parts did.