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10-13-2010, 03:51 PM
Guys with sticky 39s+ and significant horsepower will occasionally strip one out. Mine are warns and they aren't anything special at all... and they are one of the ones I've heard of stripping out the most. In most cases you are going to break a 35 spline 4340 shaft before the drive flange goes. I'm tempted to grab a set from ECGS and keep my Warns for spares. You on the other hand should be fine if your plan is to keep the 5.2 and run a smaller tire.Originally Posted by SirFuego
10-13-2010, 04:01 PM
Yeah, definitely no immediate plans for anything beyond 37s and the 5.2. Even if I blow out the 5.2, I'll probably just swap another one in. I've been through some pretty drastic changes in the past couple years and I want to get my rig more "stable" to where I'm not constantly upgrading and fixing major stuff. Given the lack of body panels and decent approach/departure angles, I don't think I even came close to the potential of what my rig could do on 35s due to the weak front axle (for what I was trying). I don't want to go too big this time around because I really hope to stay on 37s for a while, which should allow me to try a lot more than I did before without as much of a concern for catastrophic breakage (though I'm sure I'll go through a shaft/joint or two before upgrading to 35 spline). I wouldn't mind staying on 35s to be honest, but I think that I would take too much of a hit in the ground clearance department. But I digress...
Last edited by SirFuego; 10-13-2010 at 04:09 PM.
Originally Posted by SB406
10-13-2010, 07:55 PM
As far as flanges, as mentioned most likely you will brake shafts and joints first. I run a set on my old rig for some time (tralered), but was not pleased with having to po in and out for street driving (run a square d shaft front). The rock and roll offroad ones are pimp, and the Warn as mentioned are known to strip or crack, but warranty. I went back to Warn manual lockouts and as they are premium with lifetime just used warranty when needed (have an extra for trail spare usage).
You cna get lucky and find an old Spicer OEM 30 spline, rebroach (about $50-80 to respline from 30 to 35) and is arguably stronger than the aftermarket manual hubs.
I think for a 42"and below medium weight wheel tire combo - i.e. Irok with H1's having hubs or flanges that break are a better fuse than axles and internals snapping, and a quick fix on the trail.
10-14-2010, 10:44 AM
I run stock spicer d70 flanges with no issue to this point..FWIW.. I ran stock hubs before I upgraded to 35spl outers and I constantly bashed them on rocks and the dials quit working so I may as well have had drive flanges.
10-14-2010, 01:16 PM
sweet d70 seem pretty hard to find. as far as bashing your dials, are you running wheels like non reentered H1's to bash teh dial on teh rocks? Mine are pretty much in line with the wheel lip, so mostly protected.
For those running 44's in the front, a quick and cheap tip is to run Waggy flanges on teh front, I had them as a spare alternative to hubs and used on the trail. They are pretty solid and seemed bulletproof for a 44 (full engagement), plus are plentiful on junkyards. I remember paying $5 for 3 setsThey pop right in. You will break a stock shaft before breaking the waggy flange, plus you cna carry a couple spares rather than a full spare manual hub.
10-14-2010, 10:48 PM
cool mail me a setsweet d70 seem pretty hard to find. as far as bashing your dials, are you running wheels like non reentered H1's to bash teh dial on teh rocks? Mine are pretty much in line with the wheel lip, so mostly protected.
For those running 44's in the front, a quick and cheap tip is to run Waggy flanges on teh front, I had them as a spare alternative to hubs and used on the trail. They are pretty solid and seemed bulletproof for a 44 (full engagement), plus are plentiful on junkyards. I remember paying $5 for 3 sets
10-15-2010, 02:02 PM
Ah, have not had a 44 in a while, but will check my parts pile, may have a coupel sets still laying around.
Kinda hard to see but it is basically the part that goes under part 18 on the diagram below. I tried searching online for a pic of the flange\hub part but no luck. It is basically a two piece flange assembly that goes on the front on non manual hub FSJ.
10-15-2010, 06:28 PM
Speaking of hubs I just started a 1-ton build on my wife's CJ and the D60 I picked up didn't come with outer stubs or locking hubs. I've actually been thinking picking up some oem Spicer 35-spline outers and reproaching some old spicers locking hubs as the design seems to be the same concept with regards to the "locking cogs" as the high end $500 Dyna track hubs from what I read on pirate. I think I found some spicers locally on craigslist but I'm not sure of these are it or some just some cheap hubs. I've done searches on google and on pirate but couldn't find definitive pictures of what they D60 spicers look like, I know that the D44 spicers had blue dials but do the D60's also have blue dials or are they red like below, can someone confirm that they look like one the picture below.
Thanks again,
Fred R.
10-15-2010, 06:48 PM
Fred, I will dig though my pics. Those look like stock spicers to me.
pics from them disassembled here (not mine, but mine were exact the same):
...and this is the 'gear' that gets broached. MUCH beefier than the crap inside Warn's hubs.
MADMAC on pirate broaches them If not mistake was about $50 AFAIK...
They are extremelly well designed, and you can find them cheap. I sold a set with outer 30 splines for almost nothing, wish I had kept them
10-15-2010, 06:55 PM
Gui,Fred, I will dig though my pics. Those look like stock spicers to me.
MADMAC on pirate broaches them If not mistake was about $50 AFAIK...
They are extremelly well designed, and you can find them cheap. I sold a set with outer 30 splines for almost nothing, wish I had kept them
Thanks, I'll hop on these thenshould be under $100 after all said and done with getting them broached to 35-spines.
Thanks again,
Fred R.
10-15-2010, 07:21 PM
Cool, use teh second pic for reference, good isdea to po em up and see first just in case anything is chewed up and they have not been replaced for some other internals. Good luck! $100 for the set broached is a sweet deal!
10-16-2010, 03:24 PM
Ok what is the general consensus on buying a brand new Rubicon Front D44? again im running a 94 ZJ 5.2 and will be running 35's....Im asking because I might be getting a smoking deal...still have to see
10-16-2010, 03:49 PM
You could buy the matching rear from me.
10-18-2010, 01:41 PM
If you are getting a smoking deal, the Rubi 44 is a hard to pass option, pretty much bolt on, marginally stronger than a 30, geared and locked. I woudl not have a problem running one
10-18-2010, 01:59 PM
It would have to be a real good deal, but they are a worthwhile upgrade. What are you planning to do to address the difference in bolt patterns?
10-18-2010, 02:18 PM
I did it the other way on an old TJ, (Rubi rear axle and spacers front). Spacers in the front, never had any issues. If I coudl find a deal on a set of Rubi axles why not run them?
10-18-2010, 05:01 PM
It is, less than it would cost me to build my 30, and I was thinking a 9 inch rear...
10-19-2010, 04:42 PM
I hope you guy's can shed some light on something I came acrossed today.
Guy on NAGCA was using Reid knuckles on a HP 30 with Waggy spindles, mated a Waggy outer to the 30 inner with a 297 joint. By doing this he got rid of the unit bearing and picked up real lockouts. It made for a 6 lug pattern, but Chebby wheels are common and cheap, or he could have used a Furd spindle for 5 on 5.5.
This got me thinking about doing the same to my WJ using Waggy 30 inners since the overall width is very close. That would allow me to ditch the cv shafts also, and be alot cheaper than any other option.
Am I missing anything here? It seems like a great option if I'm not, my own WJ will never get over 33s on it.
10-19-2010, 04:54 PM
Search for D30-44 hybrids here and on pirate, a lot has been covered before. IMO not worth the money unless you already have sunken money on your 30 (ARB and gears). You can build a simpler D44 front with a Waggy donor and use of the shelf parts. If it were me I would look into a pair of Waggy 44's.
10-19-2010, 05:00 PM
The correct search term helps a ton lmao thanks! I've been lookin fruitlessly all day.
I totally agree that a Waggy axle or HP44 would be better, but I'm working on jackstands outside with hand tools, so for me a bolt/drill/grind option is worth alot.
10-19-2010, 05:42 PM
Ok, now that I'm home on a real computer, I can see, that the 30/44 option blows. It's either4 just as much work or just as much money as a axle swap.
10-19-2010, 07:30 PM
Personally a JK swap if you can find a good deal will be a simpler swap, but the waggy 44's are stronger in stock form, plus a lot of benefits, manual hubs, easy off the shelf and junk yard parts etc. I would start building the set on the side if you have the space and time. Pick and pull normally has the waggies in this area (CA Bay Area) for about $100 a pop or less on half off days.
I am also debating on what to do on the ZJ axle build wise, but am possibly going to wait and kill the current ones first
11-29-2010, 02:26 PM
Chad, did you ever finish this? I popped a yukon this weekend and would like to use your spreadsheet to guide my decision of what to replace it with...
11-29-2010, 02:43 PM
Damn, superior imports have pretty big numbers...twist and torque!
11-30-2010, 04:09 PM
OK, so I might be talking to myself here, but I have an engineering/metalurgy question. I may have already asked this some time ago but I don't remember the answer if I did.
Let's say you run a stub shaft on one side of the rig for two years (we'll say driver). You use it hard and then you pull it.
If you reinstall it on the other (passenger) side, is it more likely to break because it's being twisted in the other direction? Or does the stub remain equally as strong, as long as it hasn't reached yield and experienced plastic deformation? Do the grains in the shaft develop a memory or do they remain indifferent to which direction they're being twisted as long as the twisting is still within the shaft's range of elasticity?
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