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10-06-2010, 01:59 PM
If you have to ask, I seriously doubt your pushing the limits of your axle.Originally Posted by geberhard
10-06-2010, 04:00 PM
I did both and polished the aluminum inside and out. It makes it slide over stuff better and improves oiling. Best of all, nothing says bling like a polished diff.
Originally Posted by CrawlerReady
10-06-2010, 05:39 PM
Are you saying you have a lot of bling and like having your diff polished?
10-06-2010, 05:44 PM
back on topic please. anyone have any good axle truss pics for a d44?
10-06-2010, 06:22 PM
Here's my front axle when I was building it, 2x2x.250 wall truss, 1/2" thick pass side upper mount with a 3/16" gusset.
One of the many reasons aluminum housings are bad. It was worse when I finally got rid of it, actually wore to the very edge of that bolt hole
10-07-2010, 08:42 AM
Did you read this thread at all? Or did you just post up? Reread the thread and get back to us.
Ok guys I was looking at the 8.8 last night and contemplating trussing it. The tubes are already welded and it is ready to go in. I know Im gonna have to put bump pads on inboard of the leaf mounts for the bumpstops so I suppose I could integrate them into the truss. So most guys with the 8.8 and claytons have a truss but I figured it was for the link mounts not strength. What do you guys think? It will def see 35's and 300hp. Would it be a waste of time or should I do it?
10-07-2010, 09:34 AM
I don't think you'll have any issues with 300hp and 35s on the 8.8 even locked....it is pretty stout and I think grossly under-rated by most people (I'm not claiming 1 ton strength here but it's pretty stout). I would truss it, but I can't really comment on how to do it specifically.
10-07-2010, 09:42 AM
I would add a truss that has more attachment/weld area at the axle side. Clayton's design is borderline even for link mounts with 300 snappy horses IMO.
10-07-2010, 09:43 AM
I would think you'll be ok - unless you plan on jumping it or wheelling it hard. From what you have said in the past, Florida doesn't offer a whole lot beyond mud and sand so the axle shouldn't be in for too rough a life.
You could alway do it and play it safe? If you have the axle out and you are working on it already, I'd probably go ahead and do it.
10-07-2010, 09:48 AM
The main thing ive learned through this thread, and conversations with Dave and Tyler is, if you have the axle out and your building it to put in, now is the time to do whatever you can to make it as stout as possible, better to do it now, even if its not needed, then to get it put together, and realize you need it...
10-07-2010, 10:13 AM
Thanks for the input guys. I suppose I can just do it on a while its out type mindset. I'll probably go with what I know and just build a truss like my 44a one only on the top of the axle this time.
As far as the sucky Fl wheelin goes, yea its a bit weak, but I hope to hit some trips up North with you guys. Maybe GSSE sometime in the future. Since the Buick is gone I should be able to do more in the sport now. Esp if my son really takes a liking to it.
10-07-2010, 10:17 AM
Cam I don't follow you. At the axle side as opposed to what?...
10-07-2010, 10:33 AM
I think he means more contact/weld area than what Claytons provides. More like the MVC truss.
10-07-2010, 10:55 AM
Oh ok that makes sense. I wasn't sure if he was talking about what you said or if he meant that the truss should extend a certain length across the axle.
10-07-2010, 10:59 AM
I was thinking something like this.. Except more cooler!
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch..._Code=IR-XD44T
ed: Only problem is I'll either have to mock the axle up and weld the perches on then blow it all apart to truss. Or.. Build the truss once its in the rig. I could do it on the lift though so it probably wouldnt be too bad.
Last edited by Jeeptech01; 10-07-2010 at 11:01 AM.
10-07-2010, 11:03 AM
At the axle tubes. Just trying to say that the attachment point is the most important part of a truss. More weld area is key because that is where the leverage is.
seems elementary but you would be surprised how many people have gotten that part wrong, myself included in that group.
Last edited by ATL ZJ; 10-07-2010 at 11:06 AM.
10-07-2010, 11:10 AM
So you mean the weld area to the pumpkin is not as important as the weld area on the tubes. IE the tubes being tied together brings the strength not the tubes being tied into the pumpkin?
10-07-2010, 11:24 AM
This is an example of a poorly built truss, IMO.
http://store.topguncustomz.com/store...55&i=243897602
I think it was on NAXJA, but I've seen at least two guys crumple this truss like a tin can while wheeling. They mount the links on the inside of the truss, getting rid of a decent amount of material that would've made it more rigid. It's not tied into the pumpkin, and there's barely any lateral support.
Hmmmm, maybe trusses should be a TOTM
Last edited by dp96zj; 10-07-2010 at 11:26 AM.
10-07-2010, 11:30 AM
That is a Rock Krawler truss. Same truss I have and yep, it bent slightly in the middle right between the joints. Can't remember which way, but that was when it was on my D44. I swapped it to my 9" and then added a 3/8" thick piece of steel that I welded to the top of the pumpkin. Then I notched the truss out a bit more to slip further down the tubes of the 9" so I could have more welding area. It goes just below the halfway mark on of the axle tube. Haven't had any more issues since.This is an example of a poorly built truss, IMO.
http://store.topguncustomz.com/store...55&i=243897602
I think it was on NAXJA, but I've seen at least two guys crumple this truss like a tin can while wheeling. They mount the links on the inside of the truss, getting rid of a decent amount of material that would've made it more rigid. It's not tied into the pumpkin, and there's barely any lateral support.
Hmmmm, maybe trusses should be a TOTM
Last edited by CrawlerReady; 10-07-2010 at 11:32 AM.
10-07-2010, 11:54 AM
Ha, I should have kept my mouth shut. Didn't imagine it would be this confusing. Tying into the pumpkin helps too, if you can. Build the truss the full length of the tubes if possible.
All I meant to say is make sure that thing is never coming off.
10-07-2010, 11:59 AM
Gotcha :smiliefail:
10-07-2010, 05:19 PM
This. What a lot of people think of as a "truss" such as the Clayton's and RK examples is just a glorified link mount or "bridge" if you will. That's not to say that it won't work for its intended purpose (if designed and built properly), but it isn't really a truss.
Originally Posted by CrawlerReady
10-08-2010, 08:10 PM
Hehe my bad, I missed the reference on the 44A (saw you rpic and truss on the WJ, good job on the setup).
The reason I ask about polishing the 44 is I have bent\broke two 44’s on previous ZJ’s (both 96 limited V8), and at the time (early 2000’s dang) there was very little if any aftermarket. No issues on my old WJ, but the WJ was not as severely abused.
I have a 98 ZJ now (5.9), long arms, some other toys. The ZJ will start seeing more trail action in the near future, as my one ton Wrangler is kind od far from practical and comfort with little ones.
I am looking into improving the rear 44 some, or possibly improving it somewhat so I will get more life out of it, but at the same time am considering if it is worth spending the time and $$ on the axle or just start on a new axle for the rear on the side. The rig will be used for moderate trail usage, and the plans are to keep it low, 4.5 lift, 33-34”tires with some trimming.
So on to the questions:
-I can get an empty XJ 44 housing pretty cheap, form the ZJ 44 what can be ported over? The XJ housing is a bare bones housing, no internals, no brakes. Will gears, carrier, brakes easily move over?
-As far as brakes, the rig has ABS, and I would prefer to keep ABS on. Back to the question above, can the ABS components be moved over (not sure how the dial ring, etc will work on the XJ housing??
On to some tech to add:
Low pinion 30 – sucky axle
HP 30 slightly better, carry extra spare shafts even with 33’s, do not spend the $ on selectable hubs, ARB, chromos etc if your wheeling style and goal are to eventually run 35’s and harder trails.
44 front – I recommend the F258 78-79 for simplicity and perfect width for most rigs. The housing is extra beefy, the high pinion works and clears out well on most Jeeps, and if you can, keep the original selectable hubs. The axle is definitely a good axle up to 37”tires on light wheels. If you are adding to the rolling mass (heavy tires, H1 doubl beadlocks, etc) chromos are your friend. That said, I only had a small breakage on the outer shaft which was caused by a joint cup popping. To prevent that, I highly recommend tack welding the caps of your joints on pretty much any axle. If you are planning anything bigger than 35’s in your near future, do not waste your money on a 44. I have friends that have $3-4K on a dana 44 which they still manage to beat somehow and you get to appoint that it is hard to justify upgrading (I have been there)
8.8 axles – pretty much in line with Dana 44’s, if you are going 8.8 as mentioned get the Exploder 96 and up, slightly lighter, plu disc brakes. If you are running a Ford 8.8, you MUST weld the tubes to the housing. It is a matter of time until they come apart. We helped two guys with the same exact issue on the trail, one had bigger problems, the tube completely spun out (behind a Wrangler).
Dana 44 rear XJ – pretty sweet setup, easy to install, and clean perches and burning LC and UC mounts, etc. For the mounts, get the RE ones, we used Mad4wd last time and took a lot more massaging that we hoped.
Semi floaters – junk if you are going to spend your money on a big axle go full floater
Dana 60 and 14 bolt – Great axles for the harder stuff, are almost perfect stock. I have a softer spot for 14 bolts, so I lean towards them for simplicity on setup, and how cheap they are to get and build. Clearance on the 14 bolts can be arranged by some shaving. Plan on 38’s and up to justify a 14 bolt. As with the Ford 8.8 if you are not planning to add a truss, you MUST weld the tubes to the housing. The rosetta welds are crappy and will crack on the worst place at the worst time (ask me how I know).
Portals – I am surprised to not see more rigs running portals, but as they have benefits they have drawbacks. Some rigs need lift to the sky to clear up the portal pinions, so if you are going portals and can find a set of Volvos that is the way to go. Mercedes are nice but are a paint to fit on most rigs.
Deuces. You kidding? On a unit-body… hmm no… sure you can but why?
Last edited by geberhard; 10-08-2010 at 08:19 PM.
10-08-2010, 08:16 PM
Some links that may help:
detroit locker easy install at home:
click here for link for Detroit install
Newbie built front 60
14 bolt rosetta welds cracked:
fixxed
10-13-2010, 03:18 PM
So about 35 spline drive flanges...
Some are made of chromoly. Some are made of 300M. Some are made of "the same type of metal used in ring and pinions". It seems that basically every manufacturer out there makes them. Does the material really matter? Or is this something that isn't commonly broken regardless of the type purchased?
Last edited by SirFuego; 10-13-2010 at 03:21 PM.
Originally Posted by SB406
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