TOTM: Steering

[SirFuego]

Yeah, it's not september anymore, but I don't care...

Assuming a comparison of single sheer hi-steer arms with the same mounting bolt pattern, are there any significant differences between different brands of hi-steer arms in terms of strength and reliability?

What are your thoughts on the "keyway" ideas in the Crane and Solid knuckles? Does the area that now needs to be machined out of the hi-steer arm just make the hi-steer arm too weak?

[ATL ZJ]

The keyways don't remove enough material to reduce significant strength IMO. You are gonna break a half dozen knuckle studs long before you shear a 3" wide slab of 1/2" to 1" thick steel. The only time I could see a high steer arm failing is if it was not wide enough, had bend(s) in it for clearance, and was super long to give the hydraulics too much leverage on it. Even then you might have to make it out of material that is complete junk to see a failure.

[SB406]

X2.
The keyway is clutch for keeping the arm from moving (even just a little). Once the arm is able to wiggle, it's a time bomb and you WILL shear studs. As I recall, Ryan's keyed arms are a slight interference fit to ensure that no wiggle can happen.

[SirFuego]

Thanks guys. I haven't really heard about steering arms breaking, but figured I'd ask to see if anyone has experienced it before. It seems that basically everyone makes hi-steer arms, so I just wanted to be sure that it didn't really matter where to get them from as long as it's compatible with the knuckle and long enough to get the desired steering radius.

[fluxcap]

If this is covered elsewhere, point me to it.... Anyway, for the WJ, If I go with high steer, you flip the tb, then to have clearance for the ball joints, you flip the dl. That takes the track bar out of whack....

That being said, what is the consensus in the IRO tie rod with heims, bearing in mind I am limiting the $$$ I throw at the 30 as I save up for a swap. My assumption is that with the thinner heims I need not fuck with all the angles and can just flip the tie rod.

Yes, It is my dd more or less. I drive a truck and only commute 2 days a week.

[biggoofy]

Bringing this back because I need some input on rod ends for my new steering on the HP44. Im looking at the ruff stuff 7/8 by 3/4 bore heims with 1.5" ID tube adapters for my tie rod and drag link safety mis allignments on the tie rod and tie rod end of the drag link with high mis allignment spacers at the pitman arm. What do yall think will the 1.5 ID make me have to run to big of a OD tube to still have strength?

[ZJ TINS]

Jeep magazine has a reccomendation to drill out the hole which limits the amount of PS fluid being pumped (in the PS pump). Seems to have (they claim) a much better response on and off trail. Anyone try this? Any down side to it?

[moparrr07]

Jeep magazine has a reccomendation to drill out the hole which limits the amount of PS fluid being pumped (in the PS pump). Seems to have (they claim) a much better response on and off trail. Anyone try this? Any down side to it?

do you have a link or any reference to this, i couldnt find it

[Brad S]

Has anyone that has done a OTK upgrade for steering used tapered inserts instead of reaming the knuckles and pitman arm?

I was contemplating the JCR OTK steering package, but can't get excited about spending $80+ on a tool I may use once or twice...

[dyn0mitemat]

By the time you buy the inserts your half way to the price of the tool. I've lent my reamer out to a few club members now and have it paid for, upto you though there's plenty of people whom have used the inserts

[Brad S]

By the time you buy the inserts your half way to the price of the tool. I've lent my reamer out to a few club members now and have it paid for, upto you though there's plenty of people whom have used the inserts

I finally found a thread that indicated Irwin 11221 reamers are the same thing as many of the $80+ reamers.

$30 is much more feasible
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-11221-Re.../dp/B003JZARBU

[Rooster51]

Jeep magazine has a reccomendation to drill out the hole which limits the amount of PS fluid being pumped (in the PS pump). Seems to have (they claim) a much better response on and off trail. Anyone try this? Any down side to it?

Cant remember where, but I read that it can be done. But, it makes highway steering squirrely/ too responsive, and you will need to add more fluid because it's being cycled faster, or pump burnout.

[UTChavok]

Heres my set up and I've been happy with it. Fabbed up a mount to make the drag link double shear on the knuckle to try to prevent it from wallowing out.


Yes I do have a locking nut on the pitman arm now.

[ZJ TINS]

from May 2012 Jp issue

Modding a P-Pump for $0
Since we were swapping in a fresh remanufactured pump and we conveniently “forgot” to include the pressure fitting when we turned in the core pump, we thought we’d try an old-school trick. The pressure fitting on a P-Pump has an orifice in the center that restricts the amount of fluid volume that the pump puts out. One of the trail tips we’ve picked up over the years is to drill out this orifice from 9⁄64-inch to 5⁄32-inch to boost the fluid volume to the box, resulting in more steering assist. We tried both stock and modified fittings and were surprised at the results. The larger orifice provided a noticeable increase in assist, almost to the point of over-boosting with our little 31-inch tires on the street. However, the increase was welcome on the trail and would be of definite benefit to Jeeps with 35-inch tires and lockers. The fitting is easily accessible: it’s the external fitting that the pressure line connects to. In many cases, it can be removed without even removing the pump from the vehicle. We’ve also heard of people monkeying with the spring that controls the bypass circuit, but we’ll leave that for later.

Read more: http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...#ixzz2TTEtfwUM

Content here for when the link dies
Since we were swapping in a fresh remanufactured pump and we conveniently “forgot” to include the pressure fitting when we turned in the core pump, we thought we’d try an old-school trick. The pressure fitting on a P-Pump has an orifice in the center that restricts the amount of fluid volume that the pump puts out. One of the trail tips we’ve picked up over the years is to drill out this orifice from 9⁄64-inch to 5⁄32-inch to boost the fluid volume to the box, resulting in more steering assist. We tried both stock and modified fittings and were surprised at the results. The larger orifice provided a noticeable increase in assist, almost to the point of over-boosting with our little 31-inch tires on the street. However, the increase was welcome on the trail and would be of definite benefit to Jeeps with 35-inch tires and lockers. The fitting is easily accessible: it’s the external fitting that the pressure line connects to. In many cases, it can be removed without even removing the pump from the vehicle. We’ve also heard of people monkeying with the spring that controls the bypass circuit, but we’ll leave that for later.