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The hub spare mount
Identical to my truck other than the year, the gears, and the mirrors. Mine has been towing well for 3 years now. Good thing you have the new style exhaust manifolds that don't crack like mine did. Other than that, it's been great... knock on wood!
now stop changing the subject. more pics of the girl
http://www.spike.com/full-episode/69...national/30661
Found this today. It's the usual skip through process without much detail. But it still gave me a pretty good idea of what to do. Iv'e been scared to try and set up my own gears, but I think I'm almost ready to knock it out. Maybe someone else could learn a little from this also.
Just take your time and you'll be fine.
Use the gear setup article by BillaVista, it helps a lot.
http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/
It's surprisingly simple and easy if you have a starting point to go from (stock or known good setup) and setup bearings. With quality gears, the axles I've done have only required minor adjustments if any in the shims. Remember to only adjust one thing at a time and start with pinion depth. I haven't used a case spreader as I would rather dick around with prying the carrier out and tapping it in than risk messing up the center section.
Cool deal
I'm on my third rearend on my Titan... It's more of a turd than my Dana 30 with cromos and an aussie. And yes the exhaust manifolds will crack like mine as well as the radiator at the tabs where the ac condenser sits, transmission mounts go out like crazy and now I have tons of energy released when my driveshaft recoil lets loose after coming to a stop because of how much backlash they put in the new axles. I'd trade it in, but its paid for
Last edited by it usually runs fine; 08-29-2010 at 01:01 AM.
Thought I would show you guys how I decided to streth my front end today.
Step #1 Connect first set of jumper cables to titan.
Step #2 Connect second pair of jumper cables to first set.
Step #3 Put my trailer winch into reciever hitch on truck. My bumper stopped it fron going in all the way so I turned it sideways and used the trailer hole. It worked so whatev
Step #4 Connect winch cable to axle and undo the LCA bolt on one side.
Once thats over I ended up having to use my jack under my tie rod to rotate the arms downward and relieve pressure so I could adjust them.
I adjusted each joint 10 full turns out so maybe that will keep my tires out of my fenders. It got really interesting when the dog came under the jeep and stepped on the winch controller causing it to pull my axle way to far forward. I had to wrap rope around my rear axle a bunch of times(couldn't find my small strap) to attach my snatch block to and pull my axle back. I finally got the bolt back in while using the winch, jack and laying on back and using my feet to rock the tire. The first side took an hour. When i went to do the other side My friends came by and offered help, and wouldn't you know it pulled the arm down, adjusted the joint, hit the winch once and popped the bolt right in. Where was the help an hour ago? To top it all off I laid in dog shit and got attacked by ants.
I love Jeep! Days like that are the ones you remember.
Should have driven it to College Station, I would've helped you out with my hi lift.
So anyhoo... I pushed my axle forward bout and 1 1/2" and gt everything tight again and took it down some trails near my house. When it would start flexing the rear coils wanted to come out so I copied LSRGREGS idea and used some 1 3/4" exhuast clamps on the coil post. I know stretching coils is bad, but they will be stretching very little before the limit chains catch. Heres the "Coil Retainers" cost me four bucks. slapped on some rust prevention and put em on.
Here they are tightened down on the post.
And since thats taken care of I was able to measure for limit chains. I bought four lenghts of rubber coated steel chain about four inches longer than my shocks which are 31" shocks. chain was a little higher than regular galvanized or whatever but it doesn't "clank" when you hit them on stuff.
Going to mount up my limit chains soon and change out my bumpstops. They are still set for the old 4" lift so they're not even close anymore. For the old rear bumpstop it was just some 5" channel welded to the body that BEAT the shit out my axle tubes and was super annoying, but kept my tires out of my fenders and spinning so whatever. Anyways I got some bumpstops from my buddy that he got from Trail-Gear for his yota. hers the old bump stop.
Makes my teeth hurt just looking at it. Anyways I was going to try and rig up something with The old bump stop and the new ones from trail-gear. here they are.
Haven't thought of a good idea yet. I can't use anything inside the coils on the back because they are crooked as hell from stretching the rear axle back. Any ideas are welcome.
As for the front, the old style worked well. It was a little metal disk on a 4" high piece of tubing that the stock foam bumpstop hit. But the foam bumpstop has dissentigrated to nothing. My idea for the front was originally hockey pucks, but I can't find them for cheap. So I was thinking using my old setup with longer tubing post and since the foam is gone I found something on Summit that might work. Heres the old setup.
I really wanted to use hockey pucks, so if any northerners want to sell me like 16 pucks or so let me know. My other idea was to riase the tube and disk and weld another little disk to the top coil post and bolt these to it.
Still have alot of work to do in this area . I only want about 4" of uptravel in the front and rear. which requires alot of bumpstopping on a 7" lift.
Got a new lil project lined up before my next wheeling trip in October. I'm going to go ahead and try my luck with doing a Fozzy locker. I'm not sure how it's going to work, but if all else fails it's only two of the side spider gear that are trashed so i will just slap in a lunchbox locker like I want to anyways. It's a dana 30 so i'm not dropping 800$ on 50 cent axle for a high end locker. For those who do not know what a Fozzy locker is here you go.
You take out the left and right spiders. Set them on another piece of conductive metal and weld up two valleys 180* from each other on both spider gears. Like so.
When you get that done on both of the side spiders, put them back in with welded valleys lined up like so.
In theory it's suppose to allow enough free spin in the gears to allow you to turn, but lock up like a welded diff once the spiders rotate 45*.
I'm kind of uneasy doing this, affraid to grenade the front end in 10 min on the trail. I have been researching it a good bit and people seem to mostly approve of them we shall see. A welded dana 30 on 35's would be certain death, I have a feeling this will be also. the main reason i'm doin this is because my rear axle is locked and when I'm trying to climb a ledge or whatever my front tires are deciding which one wants power, meanwhile the rear is hooking up and pushing the jeep into the rock and turns my wheels forcing me to back up and try again. I fell like the rear pushing the front is putting as much force on the axle components as a locker would so why not? Anyone running one of these?
looks interesting. in theory, it sounds like a great idea. in a d30, it sounds scary
Try it out, if it breaks we'll just steal David's 30, he doesn't need it.
Edit: 1337 posts, lulz
Thats what i'm screaming. It's basically a free lunch box locker. If the spiders do crack....so what. Might as well try. Some guys I know have had good luck pre-heating them and wrapping to slow the cooling process. My only concern is wearing out my steering box if it doesn't let me turn enough.
Yeah spider gears you can find replacements easy, I might even have some extras in the garage if you want them for spares, I'll have to check though.
That's common for Toyota axles, but I see bad things happening very quickly to the D30 carrier. I see the carrier splitting before the gears cracking.
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