A quick WJ knuckle swap ?

[Jeeptech01]

I was trying to do some planning for the knuckle swap Im planning and have come across some conflicting info regarding the use of the spacers between the hub and knuckle. Are they only needed if you use the xj unibearing? Id rather not use them and just use the WJ hub and keep the 5 on 5 pattern since I'll need spacers for the 8.8 in the rear anyway. It just seems like an unnecessary failure point.

From what I read people say the u joint wont be centered and will bind up without the spacer. But dont people use XJ outers when they get dutchman shafts made for the WJ? That would tell me that the only thing that could be different is the inner c on the xj axle vs the wj which I doubt chrysler would bother making different d30 inner c's.

Please help before my head explodes

[rstrucks]

When I did mine on my ZJ I used stock ZJ unit bearings, WJ rotors - redrilled, WJ knuckles of course, and spacers. It was my understanding the the WJ stub shaft is a slightly different length than ZJ (and maybe TJ, XJ, MJ, YJ) stub shafts. FWIW they are really easy to weld on and since it's more of a locating shim/spacer than it is load bearing it's not much to worry about. Not sure I answered your question though.

Don't forget to use WJ ball joints as well when you do the conversion. They have a different taper than the aforementioned Jeeps. It's not much difference but to me it was worth getting the right stuff.

EDIT: more info here -

http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/sho...hlight=knuckle

[Jeeptech01]

I was hoping you would reply. Thanks. I thought that the wj stub may be different but that doesnt explain how dutchman makes ujoint front shafts for wj's out of xj outers then b/c in theory they would bind. When I first got my wj there was a zj cv in my front axle and it was fine except for the thread engagement on the spider.

[DJJordache]

I'm not for sure on that spec, but I'm going to be using the 99-06 XJ/TJ hub bearing (with the JKS spacers) that is still 5x4.5 but has a different offset that I won't need to use spacers on the calipers to get the rotor alignment correct and as an added bonus they have slightly longer studs.

[Jeeptech01]

I remembered reading something about having to space out the caliper bracket but I wasnt sure. Well I already have the newer unit bearings so that is one step forward. Im going to the junk yard sun so I guess I'll be able to figure it out and report back.

[rstrucks]

Yeah I forgot to mention that I had to use 3/16" or 1/4" spacers to get the caliper lined up correctly with the rotor.

I've got all my WJ swap parts if anyone is interested in them. I need to get it all together and take some pics and set a price though. Sales pitch - off.

[DJJordache]

I remembered reading something about having to space out the caliper bracket but I wasnt sure. Well I already have the newer unit bearings so that is one step forward. Im going to the junk yard sun so I guess I'll be able to figure it out and report back.

yes I forgot your an 01 XJ now, so you can reuse your hub bearings without spacing the caliper

I was never really comfortable with spacing the brake caliper 1/4" from the knuckle, and the longer M12 x 1.25 x 45 10.9 bolts are hard to find (I have a set of 4 if anyone wants them, I'm not gonna use them)

[Jeeptech01]

Yea it be pretty stupid to do a wj knuckle swap on a wj

The main readon for the curiosity here is that Im trying to plan out the wheels and tires so I need to know what bolt pattern Im running. Since my budget seems to be shrinking I'll probably use the stock icon wheels since they are 16" also the more common 5x4.5 and well.. free

ed: ryan what axle did you have the swap on? Id be interested in how you did the tb and steering and possibly buying them. Not sure about the knuckles though since the shipping would bring the suck. Could you post some pics in this thread of your setup on the rig? I assume this is from cheap cherokee? or your niner?

[DJJordache]

free is good! at least you won't have to buy 5 tire/wheels so there is a ton of money saved.

I redrilled the WJ rotors using a drill press and a wheel adapter as a template.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-Lug...Q5fAccessories
I used this wheel adapter and used the supplied lug nuts to attach it to the WJ rotor. I then used the 5x4.5 holes as my drill press template. can't get more perfectly aligned than that!

[DJJordache]

ed: ryan what axle did you have the swap on? Id be interested in how you did the tb and steering and possibly buying them. Not sure about the knuckles though since the shipping would bring the suck. Could you post some pics in this thread of your setup on the rig? I assume this is from cheap cherokee? or your niner?

pretty sure he did a 309 or 3060 currie setup from on the trucks 5grand episodes (hence the reason for his upgrade)

[Jeeptech01]

Yea I wasnt sure which rig it came from since they never said what was done to the zj before they started. I thought it was stock. I know they stole the axles from their yj project. Its funny Im not a big tv person but Im pretty sure I havent missed an episode of anything on the powerblock since it started with horsepower tv back in.. 93-94?? Dayum Im gettin old.

[rstrucks]

We did the upgrade to the Currie "60" that was taken from the YJ project. For the TB and DL I drilled out the three knuckle attachment points and ran heims and .250 wall 1.5" DOM. Probably doesn't help you much. I'll see if I can get some pics together tonight anyway.

[Jeeptech01]

Thanks. I wasnt able to get WJ knuckles this weekend. There werent any WJ's in the yard which really sucks cause there were like 5 there when cash for clunkers was running. I definitely need to do something with the steering even if its the v8 zj tierod for now. Every one of the dinky ones (XJ and I6 ZJ) were bent when I was looking around.

I had an idea for the steering that seemed much less invasive than what I have seen. It goes like this. Keep the inverted Y setup but flip it to the top side of the knuckles and ignore the highsteer arm on the WJ knucle. I imagine the trac bar mods would be much less drastic that way?

BTW at the yard I scored a front ds, hp30 3.55, complete 231 shifter and linkage, and ... a disc to disc 8.8 with a tag reading 4L10 for $275. YEEEAH

[it usually runs fine]

Nice score shoulda waited for a 4cyl 30 tho.

[Poser 5.9]

Nice score on the parts J.T.. Was that the junkyard on 50 outside of Dade city? Just curious.

[Jeeptech01]

Well I prolly would have been waiting for a long time. There were 0 4cyl anywhere plus the 4 cyl 4x4 5 spd is the only one that got 4.10 which is a pretty rare combo. I even tried buying one from car-part.com but there were none in FL. I have all the special tools including the pinion depth one here at the dealer so setting up a r+p is no big deal.

It was what used to be copher brothers off 41 near downtown tampa.

I figure I'll snag a d30 carrier from a wj since they are 3.73 and then just buy a gearset for now. No funds for a locker or lsd. Anybody know if the WJ one will work?

[Poser 5.9]

Gotcha,thanks.

[Fzcruzer]

Hello all,

I am getting stuff together to do this swap on my ZJ. Will a tie rod built with Chevy TRE's and 1.5 DOM over the knuckle clear the diff cover? I would rather use the Chevy TRE's rather than the Wj ends because I already have the DOM and can just use the weld in inserts.

[it usually runs fine]

Hello all,

I am getting stuff together to do this swap on my ZJ. Will a tie rod built with Chevy TRE's and 1.5 DOM over the knuckle clear the diff cover? I would rather use the Chevy TRE's rather than the Wj ends because I already have the DOM and can just use the weld in inserts.

[Jeeptech01]

Runs Fine Im lovin the new sig.. Priceless

[ratmonkey]

i work with a few guys like that. if a 5lb hammer and 2ft prybar don't fix it, call an electrician.

[Jim311]

Even with my WJ TREs my tie rod still rubs on the diff cover. With that said, it can flex a little and I doubt it's really a big deal.

[OverkillZJ]

Just don't do this: I once wrenched on a jeep a friend bought with the converstion already done (TJ with WJ knuckles). The jackass used washers, no weld at all, to space out the hube about 5/16", maybe more - all the weight was riding on the hub bolts with a good amount of leverage. Scary. But not as scary as the steering (tapped pipe with the wrong fittings.) What a clusterfawk that thing was to fix up, then the jackass sold it at a $4,000 profit for free labor without telling any of us that worked on it.

[Jim311]

You should remove him from your real life friends list then.

[it usually runs fine]

Runs Fine Im lovin the new sig.. Priceless

Thanks dude haha

Just don't do this: I once wrenched on a jeep a friend bought with the converstion already done (TJ with WJ knuckles). The jackass used washers, no weld at all, to space out the hube about 5/16", maybe more - all the weight was riding on the hub bolts with a good amount of leverage. Scary. But not as scary as the steering (tapped pipe with the wrong fittings.) What a clusterfawk that thing was to fix up, then the jackass sold it at a $4,000 profit for free labor without telling any of us that worked on it.

When you say tapped pipe I think like 1.5" Emt or rigid or some shit like that(SCARY). Sounds like a death machine.