Jeeptech's SAK (swiss army knife) XJ build FINALLY 4X4

[Jeeptech01]

Yea I've been spending a bit of time over on pirate lurking. Im not registered there though. Im afraid Im not hardcore enough LOL.

Im pretty set on the turbo 4.0 now. I was looking over on novak's site and was into the 2k range for swap stuff pretty easily which is what I expected.

As far as turbo setups I rebuilt the hotside of my 86 GN as well as built it up to a low 11 sec car, did a honda civic setup for my buddy (ghey), junkyard tt setup on a fox mustang, and also a complete scratch built t70 setup for my 5.3 that I had in the Buick.

[IndyZJ]

Sounds like you've got it handled, then

The routing with the 6 should be easy since you've only got one outlet to mess with. If I ever get done with my damn Jeeps I'm planning on turboing the 250 straight 6 in my Biscayne just to be different.

AP beat me to the YJ_and_Corey reference. That guy knows his stuff and has the best 4.x recipe I've seen with proven results.

[Ted_Z]

Can you even get 5.13's for a HP30? Even if you could that is one tiny pinion.

Find a 4-banger XJ and get the factory 4.10, then find a 8.8 with 4.10's to match. When you get around to putting a rubi 44 in there, regear to 4.56.

If you have any questions on the 242 hybrid stuff, PM me as I'm running one. I've also built the JY version of the 231HD. Also, not all chevy 231's have 6 planetary gears, some have 4.

[Jeeptech01]

I forgot that the 4 popper xj's had 4.10's. That sounds real good to me since it will keep the budget low so I'll have some extra money for the extras that always seem to add up.

I'll send a pm about the hybrid 242 as well since Id really like to do it even if it is a bit more work.

[DaveJeep]

Watch out for the 4 cyl, 4:10 thing. I bought a 4 cyl 1986 xj way back to gear my old XJ to 4:10s, once I got the gears out they were 3:73s. It was an auto.

[Arsonist_Bob]

with something that old, you may as well put new gears in it..

[Jeeptech01]

I'll have to see what I come across at the yard on sunday and go from there.

[1fox2go]

with something that old, you may as well put new gears in it..

I agree. Also with the time and energy spent finding and pulling these parts at the yard you would have actually saved time and energy by ordering new gears. Plus you will have a rebuilt axle as opposed to one that could "blow up" at anytime

Too bad you are in florida a friend of mine is getting ready to pull his stock Rubicon axles out of his TJ and go bigger...

[Jeeptech01]

I might be interested in the front if he's willing to ship. PM me with a price and pics.

[AgitatedPancake]

I agree. Also with the time and energy spent finding and pulling these parts at the yard you would have actually saved time and energy by ordering new gears. Plus you will have a rebuilt axle as opposed to one that could "blow up" at anytime

Too bad you are in florida a friend of mine is getting ready to pull his stock Rubicon axles out of his TJ and go bigger...

If your really worried you can tear the diff apart and give everything a good once over. Check the carrier bearings, pinion bearings, and contact pattern. If they all look good I wouldn't have any problem dropping them right back in, putting in a new crush sleeve and pinion seal, and go for it.

[jsteves]

The front diff looks new on many of the old XJ's that had vac disco as they hardly ever spun.

[Jeeptech01]

Ok so I have the oppourtunity to get a tj rubi 44 and I think Im gonna pass on it. It is a low pinion and since it has d30 tubes and c's I figure all Im getting is a larger gearset and stronger shafts. But since it is low pinion it uses the wrong side of the ring so how much stronger is it really. I figure a polished hp30 with chromos or at least the abs shafts and a good truss with a solid cover should be near as strong with better clearance. Am I being stupid here?? Remember Im in FL so we dont play much in the rocks and 70% of my club has been on their lp30 with 33-35's locked for years. Ok GO...

[zjeepin]

go for it dude, i bet you'll save some coin sticking with the hp30 too.. if you go with an effective truss and quality shafts you'll be fine...

[1fox2go]

It's your call. The only real advantage I see with getting the Rubi axle ( I assume you were referring to the one my friend is selling) is it has the teraflex steering setup, geared with 4.10s, and is locked, with a diff cover

If your club has been doing fine on LP 30s, I dont see the problem with the LP Rubicon 44...

On the other hand it may be a little bit cheaper and you would have newer parts if you find a 30 and build it...well aside from getting the chromos it would be about the same maybe cheaper

Diff cover $100
Gears $175
Master install $100
Dana 30 $150
Lock right $250
Time/Labor $? Not sure if you would install the gears yourself...
Truss $250?

Anyway just saying, doesnt bother me if you dont by this guys axle, its not mine. HAHA

[Jeeptech01]

The reason I mentioned the lp30's is cause from what I've read the hp 30 is roughly 30% stronger with respect to the r+p. I know a few guys on here are running the hp 30 on 35's in ZJ's cant remember if they are v8 or not though.

I suppose the prices are pretty close except I'll build the truss myself and I can prolly find a cover used.

Well cool. Thanks for the input guys Im all set with a helper for the yard on sun. I'll post some pics when I get my goodies. Oh and some front bumper supplies are on the way too.

[Jeeptech01]

Ok time for an update. I've been hittin the XJ hard with alot of planning, parts scrounging, and plain old work. Heres where Im at up to now.

Work Done:
Threw on a matching set of 225 75 16's (free) to get me by for a month or two
Ported t-stat housing for better flow
Modified and installed 180* t stat
CSF 3 row copper brass rad
Repaired blower motor wiring
Pioneer deh6700 mp head unit installed
IPOD adapter cable installed (comes through ashtray opening
4X4 shifter and linkage installed
Horns relocated since my bumper idea wont cover them
Rear carpet removed






Parts acquired:
4x4 aw4 trans 108k miles
231 transfer case 108k
8.8 Explorer diff 4.10 trac loc
HP30 3.55 ratio with 297 shafts
Complete shift linkage for 231
Front and rear shafts
3.5" Rustys lift with add a leafs
Zone heimed quick disco's
Upper and lower ca's with forged JJ's
RE 1600 adjustable trac bar
Nates frame tie in brackets for front bumper
1" shackle mounts and 3/4" shackles





I think thats it. I'll be putting the trans and transfer case in tomorrow and hope to get the lift done later this week. My budget is pretty much shot at this point since I had the usual "things" come up that always seem to arise when you have some free cash. Oh well. I think I have a pretty solid start going for now. Once I get the trans and lift done I'll figure out a game plan for the axles with some guidance from my MC brothers so expect some tech questions and some old threads getting dug up.

[Jeeptech01]

Ok I got the trans and t-case in on monday, even though I had a bitch of a hangover, and all I had to modify was the speedo harness since it was too short. I had bought a 8.25 ds to use temporarily with the d35 until I could swap the 8.8 in but I dont think it will survive after the lift. So I did some research and ordered the PORC HD sye and Im gonna run a XJ front double cardan type ds in the front and rear. Apparently it is the perfect length. Plus I'll only need one spare

Also got the windows tinted today. Its fawking amazing what a difference it makes in the appearance and comfort of a vehicle.

The sye is scheduled to be here fri. So I hope to have the lift, sye, and a few other odds and ends tied up by Tues. Then I'll post up some mo pics since thats all most of you look at anyway.

[LouisianaZJ]

I have heard of the front DS trick before, double check it. I think on mine the front DS did not give enough travel @5" lift d44. ended up with a custom shaft.

[Jeeptech01]

I had read alot of guys were at like 6" with it? Regardless I'll be at 3-3.5" so I think/hope I'll be fine. If not I'lll have it shortened or lengthened as needed once I swap in the 8.8. Hopefully I wont need to since I'd like to keep my rig JY friendly LOL.

ed: do you happen to know if the pinion is longer in the 8.8 than the 44 or 8.25? I know the d35 is roughly 1" shorter than the d44 or 8.25.

[1fox2go]

FYI before you drop the coin to modify the jeep front shaft, look into getting the front ds from a dodge 2500, diesel is stronger wall.

maybe overkill for your setup but berk didnt break his. And it was from the 2500 with a hemi

[it usually runs fine]

my 8.8 pushed my stock slip yoke back in about an inch over the d35 and i was at about 5.5 lift. so with the lift and 8.8 the shaft should be fine.

[Jeeptech01]

From what I've read I seem to be in the median area between guys who say its working. You never get a straight answer like well with this and this and this you have x amount comp and x droop. Its always well I have x lift and x parts and x this and it works fer me. LOL I suppose I'll find out for sure on sat when I put it all together. I imagine the shaft may be a touch on the short side with the d35 but pretty damn perfect once I swap in the 8.8

[it usually runs fine]

Try this. 1. Place all parts on ground. 2. Park jeep on top of parts. 3. Pour about five or six different kinds of hardware on parts. 4. Let sit over night. Should just need minor tweaking afterwards.

[Jeeptech01]

Try this. 1. Place all parts on ground. 2. Park jeep on top of parts. 3. Pour about five or six different kinds of hardware on parts. 4. Let sit over night. Should just need minor tweaking afterwards.

Well I tried it and wound up with a quarter eliptic in front and coils in the rear so I had to take it all off LOL.

Well I got the rear spring packs rebuilt and the aal in as well as the front coils and all the shocks. I couldnt do the tb yet because it requires a 5/8 drill bit that I dont have.

I also got some driveline vibes after the lift at 30-40 mph and then went away. So I put on the PORC hd sye (you get what you pay for more later) and my front ds in the rear and still have vibes possibly a bit worse. Im gonna need to shim the rear until I can get the 8.8 in since the pinion angle brings the suck. On the plus side though the shaft will be perfect with the 8.8. With the turdy five at full droop the shaft is real close to maxxed out. Pics in a few days when I get the rest of this crap on and a few issues worked out.

Any theories on why the vibes are worse with the dc shaft?? Mine is that the dc is trying to make up for the bindage of the rear joint and swinging out of round. Where before there were only 2 u joints and were cancelling each other out.

[LouisianaZJ]

the pinion angle has to be shimmed within 1-2* of the DS angle with the CV