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Are you gonna tie the a pillar bar near the lead edge of the door into the a pillar/cowl area. I have seen it done on alot of XJ builds. Apparently it strenthens that area considerably. Usually it is recessed into that area but I think a node and plate would be sufficient.
Im loving the way the front is coming out very tough looking. You are difinitely making chicken soup out of chicken shit with regard to the wreck.
Damn man your rig is starting to remind me of this fawesome Cherokee that I found a while ago. I saved a pic, and can't remember whos it is lol!
I'm liking it a ton
gotta love unibodies
No laws that are enforced. I have seen a full on tube buggy driving through a movie theater parking lot, that really took me by surprise, I know of another guy with a yota buggy, and he only gets hassled for no wipers or washer fluid. The front window is thin rubber-like plexi! I dont think I'll have any issues with the narrow front end.
Thanks for the props Greg, that XJ is pretty cool looking, it needs headlights though, just to give me more ideas
For the front end of the ZJ, I knew I wanted it NARROW, with a not too over the top stinger, with flowing lines (straight has been done to death) and something that looks a bit different than what I've seen. The last bit is the tough part, originality is hard to incorporate.
Well, good thing I never go to Denver in the ZJ.
Winch is on the way! Thank you to CrawlerReady
You got it! Saves you some $ and gives me a little bit too!
From FOA's website:
"We typically recommend using a lower (Main) spring that is 2" longer than the shocks travel length, and an upper (Tender) spring that is 2" shorter than the shocks travel length. (ie. A 12" travel shock will use a 14" Main spring and a 10" Tender spring) If the spring rates you need are not available using the longer lower/shorter upper method, you can use 2 equal length springs as needed. (ie. A 12” travel shock can use 2 12” springs)"
Is there a reason to deviate from their recommendation?
Last edited by SirFuego; 11-08-2010 at 10:20 PM.
IIRC FOAs come with relatively short sliders, which is probably why they recommend longer main springs.
Are you completely stuck with FOA's springs for some reason? If it's not too late, I would go with another manufacturer/ vendor with a "free" exchange program and a large stock of coils to help get it dialed (Yes, some people disagree with this, but it gives you the option of swapping should you want/ need to with much less expense).
Run Fox sliders on FOA shocks and you can run lower springs equal to the length of your travel... i.e. a 14" on a 14"... Yes they cost more on top of the initial price of the shock, but the FOA sliders are junk. They're too tight on the body of the shock and too short. Just one of the reasons FOAs are less of a deal than they appear to be at first glance...
refer to my build thread, or just search my username and FOA, if you want more detail.
Too late, the springs will be here wednesday.
Yeah, it should be alright, I am moving the upper mount higher though, I am aiming for a bit more usable up travel, no need to have 9-10" down travel, if only 6-7" is usable. The drag link binds on the pitman and axle with too much droop on the passenger side.
I am cutting a few inches out of the stock frame rail to allow my lower control arms clearance, getting my axle truss about 1" below the oil pan. Should work out to be a lower ride height, with a decent amount of up travel remaining.
As for the tiny 30 and tires, they are definitely on the list of things to upgrade. for a long time I thought tons were out of the question, now they are planned without question.
Tyler, got my winch today, that was FAST. Thanks again.
Luckily with your super light sprung weight you'll be able to have a lot of fun tuning your shocks and bombing around!
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