Orangepower needs bigger boots

[5.9 ANDY]

I like this . Super unique way of going about it, and looks like you're pulling it off well!

i agree with greg, it looks great.

[ogdak]

Great flares

[OrangePower]

Why not take some small tube and build a small flare with sheet metal .

Thanks guys!


Don`t know what you have in mind when you say small flare. I need aprox 10cm wide flare on each side. So this flare is nice and it gives me much needed 10cm.

Do you have some picture what you think with tube flares?

[OrangePower]

I`m getting close

Shocks are mounted, driveshaft`s made and mounted, steering works, fenders are built.
Now I need to widen one side of front bumper. For now I will also widen original back bumper to get in line with back fenders.
Then comes hard part meaning putting on plaster and paint.


I also made maiden voyage and everything works well, just there was little play in back upper arms. I sorted this out by tightening nut on joint.





Car seem wobely but i think this is because of ride height and no sway bar...

I will see how it handles when everything is done.

We had a few funny moment`s




I also checked for bumpstops


(Modified drag link)




On the move

[Wwildman]

Looks good man

[Arsonist_Bob]

its funny, i get real excited when i see this build sitting at the top of the thread with updates. glad to see its mobile!

[Poser 5.9]

Those flares look great! That is a ton of work, even when you don't weld your tools to the truck. Lol. I agree with Arsonist Bob when he says this is an exciting build. Mostly due to the roadworthyness guidelines you have to stay within, and partly because of how many american parts you actually have access to.

[OrangePower]

Work is on pause because of snow and cold weather. I`m thinking on sway bar. Should I use only front with, disconnect off course, or should I use rear also. How do you make disconnect for rear end?


Any otther idea for sway bar?

[downtowncb]

Rear too with an anti-rock with no disconnects. I don't know about over there, but here they aren't too expensive and they don't limit your travel.

I have a Swayloc in the front, it is awesome but definitely expensive.

[OrangePower]

Over here there isn`t any. If I want something I must order from USA and this means at least 300$ for shipping... Too expensive..
Did anybody build something like antirock?

[AgitatedPancake]

Orange, people have used the torsion bar from IFS trucks (like the mid 90's toyota truck) as sway bars. I don't know how stiff those ones are, but you might be able to find something to work for you in a junkyard instead of getting something shipped from the US! Then you'd only need the sway bar arms with the hex/splines to match the torsion bar.

[1ABrian]

Sweet build man!! Unique front end design. Love to see some flexy pics. Very nice fab work on those fenders too

[OrangePower]

Finally came wormer weather, so I was working on jeep yesterday. Final touches before painting on fenders are coming along nicely.
I could not help myself so I went on short test drive.

I found problem with my steering. When I turn left or right I get play on drag ling and tie rod. You can see on picture.






Main problem is because curved part on drag ling is moving forward and backwards if you understand me. At this moment I get rotation on tie rod because rod end on drag link is mowing up and down, so tie rod is moving from one side to another side as much as rod ends on tie rod are capable.
I think this movement is caused by curved part on drag ling.

Now I need little advice. Should i use different rod end on drag link? I was thinking on using the same carbon rod end from RE that I`m using on track bar.

http://www.rubiconexpress.com/jeeppa...part=QA1EXML12

What do you think?
Is it OK to use different rod end on drag link?

[OrangePower]

Something like this




or


Don`t know if this will eliminate tie rod and drag link roll...

This is another option (take a look at the axle side)

[it usually runs fine]

There is nothing wrong with your steering thats just the way crossover behaves, My kit does the same thing. I tried adding the jcr poly bushing to it, but they just got ate up so I got used to it. The xj linkage pictured would be my choice if I were you.

[IndyZJ]

The roll is primarily from your very steep drag link angle with that setup. The only real solution is real crossover steering with a flat top knuckle on the passenger side and a high steer arm. Using a heim joint on top of the tie rod like in the pic will take away a lot of the roll, but it's really a function of the angle of the drag link and how it mounts on one side of the tie rod - it's pushing up and down as it tries to go side to side. You would likely still experience some roll with the heim joint setup if it is even legal in your country. You could bandaid your setup now with some hard plastic spacers in place of your tie rod end dust covers, but they will likely eventually fail.

Going to a high steer arm will raise your drag link and also force you to raise your panhard mount on the axle. That would also give you a significantly higher roll axis and decrease the body roll you are experiencing, too.

[AgitatedPancake]

I had good luck with replacing the TRE grease boots with poly bushings. I made mine from some cheap Energy Suspension bushings, but they were very similar to the JCR ones here:
http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/...tegory_Code=S6

BUT, I put them on both tie rod ends and the drag link end at the tie rod. With a total of 3 the steering was great, and they slightly squished against the body of the TRE so they still held in the grease pretty well

[OrangePower]

I can try and make poly bushings for rod ends...
I was thinking on flat top knuckle but in my country this is mission impossible

Did anybody made high steer arm on plain knuckle from D44 like mine (1979 bronco with cast wedges)?

[OrangePower]

Here we go again. There was no time to finish build. I had to finish top floor in my house because baby was on the way. Now the apartment is finished and baby is sleeping so I can go on with my build

Few pictures :




Don`t mind ABS cables









In meanwhile I bought steering knuckles from reid racing, and I almost finish doing high steer arm. Can you tell me If length of tie rod is important. I forgot about that.
I don`t want to get problems with steering arm touching tire, so I must make tie rod little shorter than original.


I also plan on connectin tie rod and drag link on one side to steering arm, not like now that drag link connects to tie rod.

Should I take care on length of parts or it is enough just to be parallel?

I will also eliminate catalist conv. but I must then put second O2 sensor to another place. Is it OK if I put behind silencer?
Now is located behind catalist conv.

[Mad-Line]

really good build my friend,
i'm waiting your custom fender flares's finished case,
probably, i will do it like you,

[OrangePower]

Reid Racing knuckles are finally mounted. Handling is sooo much better... Car feels almost like original jeep again. When I put sway bar in function and replace heim joint on tie rod it will be drivable like original

[OrangePower]

In meantime I made this and it is working perfect