Orangepower needs bigger boots

[Poser 5.9]

You've got to remove the factory lower control arm mounts, or am I missing something else?

[OrangePower]

I will do that yes

If I remove them I still have only about 2” for arm movement before it hits unibody rail.
Like I said, I don`t know if my front axle is in correct position regarding spring compression under raid height. Maybe I have to lower the D44 to get correct ride height…

[OrangePower]

I made little progress today…





This is how I hope, it will look like

[IndyZJ]

I would not have made them like that. By putting the frame mounts that far apart, you are hurting the potential for flex with radius arms. The closer to the center the frame mounts are, the more that radius arms act like a one link and the less everything binds. It may have funky driving characteristics the way you have them, too.

I hope you plan on bracing the hell out of those things instead of just butt welding them together...

Why not just use a crossmember like almost everyone else does to mount them, like this:
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id=203

[OrangePower]

Now I see what you mean. I was not thinking like you - one link...

I had to cut them because in my country people laugh at me when I tell them that I have ¼”wall pipe to bend. They can only band pipes with 2 or 3mm thick walls....

How would you brace arms in my case?

P.S.
Hmm, maybe it will be best to go to store and get new pipes for front arms, or just make them like this and see how they will handle ...

[OrangePower]

Oh man, this design works like S**T!

I see now, by trial and error, that arms which has bend in them don`t work with ford cast wedges axle mount.

Today I mounted arms on car and axle, and when I removed one support under one side of axle, nothing happened. Side with out support dropped down maybe an inch, nothing more. If I push axle down with my leg then I get little articulation but not much. One axle end from another end was maybe lower for 15” with me staying on one side!

I`m afraid of what can happened on trail with weight of car on mounts. I have a feeling that something would brake.

I need to make new crossmember and mount arms on it or make new mounts and put them on inner side of frame.

Can someone explain me if strait arms will work ok from picture below.



This design works like shit:

[IndyZJ]

That will help a bit. Unfortunately, radius arms will bind no matter what. All of the articulation you get with radius arms comes from material deflection, whether it be in the bushings at the axle or the actual arms. A few guys have mounted the frame-side mounts within a couple inches of each other which allowed them to act a lot like a one link, but then you lose the stability that comes with radius arms.

With the arms straight like you have in the first drawing, you should still max out 10-12" travel shocks easily. The bushings will give a lot after they are broken in.

edit: http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/sho...ht=bronco+arms There are a couple good examples of what to do in that thread, and a good amount of what not to do.

[OrangePower]

What do you think about this:
http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/...s+arms&page=22

I like how front axle is mounted.

[IndyZJ]

Cody had radius arms mounted like that in his ZJ buggy. There used to be an example of that setup in the link I posted, but I don't know if the picture still works. There might be a link in there somewhere to it, or you should be able to find pictures of it on here.

[OrangePower]

Codys pictures don`t work

See post #36

I`m also reading about horible bump steer. What about that?

[OrangePower]

Made a little progress J

I decided to use this design





It flexes under it`s own weight

I think that is great for radius arms. Front end is working like 4-link back end.




This is what is done till now I`m getting there









Look what has 9” lost








I still need to make seats for springs and also mounts for shocks and mount everything on car and weld it.
I hope this will be done this week. After that I have to play with shafts. This will be fun

[Extreme95ZJ]

How and were are you going to mount your front coil buckets since you are using the Ford Radius Arm set up ?

[OrangePower]

I will make something like this:

[Extreme95ZJ]

got ya

[ELLLLLIOTTTTT]

What coils are you going to run? Those mounts are going to give you 3" at least. Keep it low and chop the fenders.

[OrangePower]

I`m a little affraid that it will be too high. I have RE4.5" spring waiting to go in.

[ogdak]

Nice progress.

[LouisianaZJ]

[Wwildman]

Looks good . keep more pic's coming .

[OrangePower]

Little update

I manage to rebuild 9”. It has complete new bearing and new R&P 4.56
Pattern is almost perfect. Drive side is right in the middle and rear side is little off but this is the best I could do





This is how the springs will be mounted:


On front end I need to cut plate do get right dimension





Back end:





*Images are not centered*

I`m aiming for this :


Now I have a question

On picture below you can see drive shafts




From top to bottom:
front bronco
front ZJ
back ZJ
back Bronco
front Nissan Patrol

I will use shafts from bronco. I will need to adjust length.
Main problem is how to get bronco`s joints to ZJ shackle.
On axle side I have no problem but on NP242 side I have problem.


Broncos Joint`s are wide 9,2cm and cap is 2,7cm in diameter
ZJ`s joint`s are 8,16cm wide and cap is the same 2,7cm.


Are they any hibrid joint`s available?

[IndyZJ]

Yes, you can get conversoin universal joints. However, I do not know how well they would work in a double cardan joint - it seems like one would severely limit the maximum angle of the joint. You would have to run the conversion joint on the shaft itself and the ZJ (1310) double cardan assembly off of that.

The most cost-effective solution will be to put the entire 1310 double cardan assembly (from the ZJ) on the Bronco shaft. If you have to change the length of the shafts anyway, this is no big deal at all.

Do you have a slip yoke eliminator on the 242? If so, which yoke does it use? If not, use the ZJ rear shaft and run a conversion joint at the axle.

It's looking good, but on the front, I would figure out a different lower shock mount. If you run it to the plate on which you are mounting the coil, you will greatly limit uptravel.

[OrangePower]

Yes, you can get conversoin universal joints. However, I do not know how well they would work in a double cardan joint - it seems like one would severely limit the maximum angle of the joint. You would have to run the conversion joint on the shaft itself and the ZJ (1310) double cardan assembly off of that.

The most cost-effective solution will be to put the entire 1310 double cardan assembly (from the ZJ) on the Bronco shaft. If you have to change the length of the shafts anyway, this is no big deal at all.

Do you have a slip yoke eliminator on the 242? If so, which yoke does it use? If not, use the ZJ rear shaft and run a conversion joint at the axle.

It's looking good, but on the front, I would figure out a different lower shock mount. If you run it to the plate on which you are mounting the coil, you will greatly limit uptravel.

Thanks for advice
I didn`t think that different joint on double cardan assembly would limit max angle

Shock is there only for brainstorming on how and why, only to get an idea how to proceed.
Shocks will be mounted differently

[OrangePower]

Hm…

What If I get another front ZJ cardan and cut double cardan assembly off and put it on bronco rear cardan?

I see that bronco`s u-joint are bigger and therefore stronger so I was hoping to use them.
Do you think that ZJ 1310 u-joints are much weaker?

[OrangePower]

Little update

Welding is almost done...
I had it standing on it`s own weight up front to see where should I mount shocks.



First I tried with option like original, to mount shocks on the same plane like spring is. In this location I have 12cm of up travel and 28cm of down travel.
On pictures you can see that if I lower axle almost to shocks max (I left 2cm of travel) then spring unloads.


I also measured distance from tire to fender when shock is compressed and distance it will be aprox 10cm.





Second option is mounting shock to arm. In this option up travel is 15cm (tire to fender clearance when shock compressed aprox 6cm). But in this option I lose down travel.



Where do you think is the best option to mount shocks?
Any idea regarding drive shafts?

[Arsonist_Bob]

measure shocks eye to eye while compressed then add 1" or so = "X". Compress suspension on bumpstops (no springs). measure from the upper shock mount down using "X" and thats exactly where the shock should mount on the axle