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I've been having some issues getting my WJ leveled out and while trying to figure out what mismatch of spacers and coils I'll need now and the chance of being wrong or having to do this again later when I go higher the idea of airsprings crossed my mind. Only on the rear to start. That would give adjustability for cargo etc but keep the front on coils. Nothing funky like "slamming my dub on its nuts" or "laying frame" and no wild controllers and compressors. Im talking simplicity. Like redneck simplicity. Airshock simplicity.
I was thinking I'd fab some brackets for the bags which would be relatively simple then plumb them together with some steel tube (not the plastic crap most guys use) install a T with an air nipple for filling them up and finally install an (always closed electrically opened) electric flow valve that will let pressure equalize between the bags when energized.
Seems to me like having the valve in the line (closed position)will help avoid body roll.
Conversely opening the valve will allow almost unrestricted flex and aid in offcamber situations since the air from the compressed bag will flow into the decompressed bag and actually lift the low side of the vehicle.
Thoughts, opinions
Did a search btw found hero4x4 who got ragged for sporting a posermobile and another guy who fizzled
Heres the specs on the bags I was looking at. Like $50 ea btw which would be cheaper than another set of coils.
Max. Working Pressure600 PSI Restrained (41.4 bar)
Usable Stroke9.7 in (246.4 mm)
Design Height6.0-9.0 in (152.4-228.6 mm)
Load Range349-3055 lbs(~159-1385 kg)
Collapse Force80 lbs (36.287 kg)Physical (Each)
Free Standing Height8.0 in (203.2 mm)Max.
Extended Height12.5 in (317.5 mm)Max.
Compressed Height2.8 in (71.1 mm)
I was on a trail ride a year ago with a guy in a TJ that had air springs. He had them plumbed so he could control both fronts, both rears, both left side and both right side, so he had 4 circuits. It seems complicated, but what it allowed him to do is level out the Jeep in off-camber situations. It worked well, so you can gain some additional utility out of what you're thinking in addition to leveling your Jeep.
I didn't look the Jeep over real close to see if he had coils too or just the bags. It was a sick rig though.
dude.
don't bother braggin if yer doors ain't draggin.
In an off camber spot if you have the bags tied together with an open line/ valve, air will go to the uphill bag. When the weight of the body tries to compress the downhill bag, it will push the air to the uphill side and exaggerate the body roll.
The bigger the bag/ higher it is rated, the lower the psi you have to run to acheive a given ride height. That also helps keep them from unloading as harshly when you do something like go down a hill or are in an off camber spot and give a better ride. Run good shocks with the right valving and limit straps - a short center strap would be a good idea, too.
Or just run coils and forget the hassle. It would be cheaper in the long run and a lot less work.
All good points. Thanks for the replies. Well except Paulkieth but I expect that from him LOL
I had some time to think about this on the ride home and the biggest issue for me is the deviation from the KISS concept. I mean If I pop a bag I have no rear suspension and my rig will drag ass off the trail like a dog with worms. Probably not the best plan for a DD. It may be cheaper up front but more expensive down the road.
I am curious nonetheless how my off camber logic is flawed though (not saying its not possible just trying to learn). Indy, if the compressed bag on the high side has higher pressure than the decompressed bag on the low side why would more air flow into the bag with higher pressure?
because the body is going to want to roll downhill, and if the cross tube is open, there is nothing keeping the downhill bag inflated. the body will compress it, push the air out of it, and roll down the hill. the fact that the air leaving the downhill bag is going into the uphill bag only makes it worse.
10-4
I've thought about this too, what about having a single bag in the center of the axle as an assist? In your case (or any stock WJ configuration)if you built a little crossmember above the rear axle you could land a bag right on the rear A-arm, and just add a little pressure to lift it when you want to. Leave the springs/shocks you want in.
True but the reason I was considering this was b/c I was having issues attaining a somewhat level ride height. Nevermind I get what you are saying now but it seems like a bandaid fix to me and just adds one more variable.
My rear ride height is 1" higher than it should be on both the stock rear coils and the 2.5" ones. I noticed it right after I lifted my tank.
All this brainstorming has helped me come up with a cool idea. Nothing to write home about but should help my problem. I'll post a thread in noob tech tomorrow if it works. I dont see why it wont. Why noob tech you ask, its a bit noobish trust me.
Air shock?
I considered it but I thought it would limit flex plus the ride like absolute ass. Also It would be in violation of the KISS concept. After screwing around with it a bit the solution was reinstalll rear lift coils, ditch upper isolators in favor of some silicon hose, and buy some spacers for the front coils. So I'll be at 3.25 instead of 2.5 oh well its not like Im trying to stay under 7" or something LOL
I've thought about doing an extra set of air shocks--if I can find some that don't limit flex--and plumbing them to fill equal but with a cut off valve to keep them seperate when wheeling for heavier camping loads. But in the end, too much work right now and too far away from KISS too.
I am currently running air shocks on the rear for ride leveling and they work awesome.
Zero problems so far. I'm at about 4.5 " lift. I found shocks that were 4.5" longer than stock.
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