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04-22-2010, 07:38 PM
Yea we need some full rig pics too.
04-22-2010, 07:53 PM
And you have to tell us...how does it drive!
I bet that extra pep is a blast to drive haha
04-22-2010, 08:57 PM
It's very fun to drive. Not like it's a power hog or anything, I had a 03 mustang cobra with 485 whp/ 530 wtq that I just sold so this is still a slug to me right now. It is still a bit soft from a dead stop on pavement. If I punch it sitting still it doesn't spin but does pick up rpm real fast.
I gotta get some pics up for sure. Not much time on my hands though. Just got pulled over today and ticketed for no flares/flaps. I'm not ready for a full exo or anything but plan on welding tube to the from bumper and making rock rails then connecting the tube around the wheel wells. But spaced out a bit then putting rubber in between to cover the tires. Not sure yet really.
04-22-2010, 11:26 PM
So it looks like I will need a drop pitman arm. Anyone know who makes one that is more then the 1.25" ones that I can find?
04-22-2010, 11:47 PM
as far as I have been able to tell, it seems that steering box splines are pretty universal, at least across jeeps. You may even be able to find a stock application pitman arm that will work, though will have a different TRE hole...
04-23-2010, 10:41 AM
Gotta love the RCs. Thats pretty much why I quit daily driving mine. I do have a set of semi mudflaps mounted to a bar that plugs into my trailer hitch when I do.Originally Posted by DaveJeep
Be careful with putting tubes around the wheel wells. I watched Colin (Pedalmesh) get totally owned in the rock garden at ACE event last summer because of his tube flares. Just something to be mindful of.
04-23-2010, 10:57 AM
Why did it cause him to have problems? Just wondering
04-23-2010, 11:12 AM
He got hung up on a rock at the front of the rear wheel opening and couldn't pivot on it or get past it. Had to back up and take a totally different line. Not a huge deal but, unnecessary.
04-23-2010, 02:22 PM
There are no (to my knowledge) factory Jeep pitman arms that drop lower than the ZJ's. I have spent many hours in junk yards looking. I had to buy one from Clayton to clear my oil pan at full bump. Is that the problem you are having? And post some god damn pics
As far as the tach signal we were talking about. I used a microcontroller to inject a fake crank position sensor signal to see if that would make the tach work and no luck. However the fuel pump turned on and the evap solenoid opened so the Jeep ECU thinks that the motor is running. So I tried injecting both a crank and cam position sensor signal hoping that might work but still no luck. I'll let you know if I figure out anything else.
04-24-2010, 01:13 PM
I'm thinking I can just build a new drag link and track bar. I just need to put a bigger bend near the oil pan.
Not too sure on this so hope you guys can fill me in a bit. I know the DL and TB should be parallel but does it matter if they have different bends in them if they are parallel bolt hoe to bolt hole does it matter?
04-24-2010, 01:24 PM
Just bolt hole to bolt hole. Even with the bends, the bar still act's like it's a straight peice from bolt hole to bolt hole
04-28-2010, 10:38 PM
Finally got some pics uploaded today. Enjoy
[hr]
Drag link & track bar need to be redo (ride height pic) I can get another inch of clearance if I get a LS1 oil pan. Don't think it's going to be enough though.
04-29-2010, 09:18 AM
looks awesome great job
04-30-2010, 02:24 AM
dont think you can get the motor up anymore? along with a ls1 pan if you could get another inch up on the motor you'd be alot better off. also maybe a drop pitman and adjustable draglink bracket?
04-30-2010, 07:12 AM
Awesome! Looks like it came that way.
04-30-2010, 09:02 AM
Got any mods planned for oil control if you go with the ls1 pan? looks like you wheel it.
How do you like the deka battery?
04-30-2010, 11:50 AM
I'm trying to avoid using the F-body LS1 pan because of oil control. And I do wheel it lots.
The Deka battery is pretty good but a little low on cranking though. It came with the Jeep when I bought it, not sure how old it is.
So I'm going to use a XJ pitman arm which will give me 3" of drop and redo the track bar bracket on the frame. The factory one is welded on tough. I hope I can just extend and gusset this one.
04-30-2010, 12:06 PM
Whats that rear axle.....is it a toyo 8.25
04-30-2010, 12:08 PM
It's a Ford 9" with a high pinion Currie third member.
04-30-2010, 03:11 PM
I got mine from Rusty's for my WJ. It works great. It's the only thing I have ever bought from them. I can't remember how much drop over stock it is.
04-30-2010, 05:15 PM
i hope they properly notched that y-pipe merge instead of just sticking pipe in a hole like the exhaust shop did to my "custom" y-pipe.
04-30-2010, 05:21 PM
I was there when he did it, he's a friend of mine. Did a good job and notched it correctly.
04-30-2010, 10:23 PM
excellent.
i think i would have still used the magnaflow y-merge. it's what i ended up using to build my updated and correct y-pipe on my motor.
05-01-2010, 12:10 PM
I just am using the magnaflow for now since it was on there before. This thing is way too quiet now though, it's weird.
05-01-2010, 08:05 PM
Haha, I reused the Magnaflow from my old 5.9 setup and this thing is way louder than it used to be...
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