"bigblue" 94 ZJ on 3/4 tons and 37s

[bigbluezj94]

well im usually on JF but i think there is a lot more tech and a lot more to be learned over here so i figured id share my build.

got the jeep in june of 08 with 4.5" RE superflex kit on it and some bald ass 28" tires for 1500$.


from then til jun 09 i went to 6.5 with some spacers, trackbars, mx6s and 33x12.r15 truxs mts.

also ditched the d35 for a 44a, swapped in a 242, an aussie in the d30 and u joint shafts.

[bigbluezj94]

now that all the boring stuff is out of the way, on to the recent build...

picked up a set of axles from a 79 ford 250 for 350$. HP44 and a full floating d60. before anyone starts ranting about why i dont have a 14b and a 60, thats why... i got a deal on the axles. i wasnt really looking to do anything of this caliber until i came across this deal.

out with the old

in with the new


then i found a deal on some 37 SSRs so i found shoved them in my DubJ lol




cut off brackets and fabbed up all new brackets for the 44. i decided to work with the cast leaf perch. drilled and tapped 3 holes and bolted a 1" square solid stock to it and ran the truss over pumpkin for the driver side upper mount. then cut out a slot for it to fit flush with the new spring plate...






also regeared to 5.13s and installed a detroit EZ locker which turned out to be GARBAGE!!!

[bigbluezj94]

also while building the axles we fabbed up a set of claytons. bought all the JJs, buchings, inserts, ect and got them for basically half price






fast forward to front end done...




to accept full circle clips

[bigbluezj94]

then it was on to the rear end. drill out the frame stiffeners and put in some weld nuts for a TC skid in the future.



regeard the 60 to 5.13s and did the disk brake conversion from greatlakes. easiest and best mod you can do to a drum brake 60





it also got a lockrite and truss made of 2" .25 wall just like lowers

[bigbluezj94]

steering is 1.5" .25" wall with GM 1 tons TREs OTK with ballistics inserts



after taking it out once, all the front locker did was clank and bang around, unloading and provided NO traction. it was as if i was in 2LO. Ripped it out and welded up the spiders

[bigbluezj94]

so here she is today












next big things on the list are...

-bumpers
-boatslides
-skid
-hydro assist
-steering box brace
-weld on beadlocks

thanks for viewing, any criticism/comments are aprreciated! hope ive entertained you

[adam99wj]

it looks good..... im digging the neat and clean fab work.

you said you were goin for some boatsides?? have any good links to some info?? or do ya have something in mind off the top of your head ???. im planning on some boat sides as well, and the more info i read the better before i hack it up!!!!

[bigbluezj94]

it looks good..... im digging the neat and clean fab work.

you said you were goin for some boatsides?? have any good links to some info?? or do ya have something in mind off the top of your head ???. im planning on some boat sides as well, and the more info i read the better before i hack it up!!!!

thanks! havent seen any really good write-ups. seen a few but they look a little rough. i have a general idea of what i want to do with it some im just going to hack and go. i know there was TOTM on pirate about it awhile back but most of them were a little more than i want to do. like cutting up into the doors and floorboards...

[adam99wj]

yeah i read some of the TOTM and most of it was a little vague. i want to go into the door enough so that the window still operates normal, how much that is i dont know. if i could get 3 or 4 inches into the door it it would be perfect

[IndyZJ]

Looks good, but it looks like you could do some trimming, add bumpstops, and lower it a good 3-4"

[it usually runs fine]

Do you have a closer pic of where ur drag link connects to the tre? thanks

[bigbluezj94]

Do you have a closer pic of where ur drag link connects to the tre? thanks

its the y-link setup from ballistics
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...ds_p_1338.html

Looks good, but it looks like you could do some trimming, add bumpstops, and lower it a good 3-4"

ive got it setup right now with 3-4" of up travel. if i lowered it any, i would need new shocks and im not up for that right now. it works fine the way it is. It is a bit tall but it aint too bad.

[Technohead]

Nice.

How's it drive with the front diff welded like that?

[greengc4x4]

Nice.

How's it drive with the front diff welded like that?

Manual lockout hubs

[FortCollinsZJ]

With locking hubs, It wouldn't even be rotating on the street, so probably just fine.

EDIT: too slow.

[MUDDTRACKS]

hope u plan to upgrade to the axle shafts in that 44 if not bring plenty of spares

[bigbluezj94]

With locking hubs, It wouldn't even be rotating on the street, so probably just fine.

EDIT: too slow.

yea its like it isnt there. nothing moves in the front end when the hubs are unlocked...

hope u plan to upgrade to the axle shafts in that 44 if not bring plenty of spares

i do plan to upgrade the shafts. im going to go with the RCV performance CV shafts. untill then, ill be taking it very easy...

[Technohead]

Yea but eventually you do have to lock the hubs. Must be a bear to steer on the trails. . . Anywho, wish I could find a set of those axles for $350. Keep the updates coming.

[OHIOZJ]

nice to finally see a complete build up. looks good

i do have to ask, why does your rear truss looks so far off the pumpkin? you must have a lot of seperation at the axle end. then i noticed how much your rear looks like its steering under the truck when dropped out. do you think lowering the upper truss would help fight that? im no 4 link expert, it just looks taller than it needs to be.

im having the opposite problem with my lockrite in the front end, it doenst want to disengage ever, so its like i have a welded front end. been looking around at it seems it might be installed wrong. i havent had a chance to check yet.

[bigbluezj94]

Yea but eventually you do have to lock the hubs. Must be a bear to steer on the trails. . . Anywho, wish I could find a set of those axles for $350. Keep the updates coming.

yea when locked on the trail you can definitely tell its there. when hubs are locked and it 2wd, it pulls a little but its manageable to get to the next obstacle so i dont have to keep locking and unlocking hubs. when its locked and in low on the rocks...hollllyyy balls helllooo hydro asist

nice to finally see a complete build up. looks good

i do have to ask, why does your rear truss looks so far off the pumpkin? you must have a lot of seperation at the axle end. then i noticed how much your rear looks like its steering under the truck when dropped out. do you think lowering the upper truss would help fight that? im no 4 link expert, it just looks taller than it needs to be.

im having the opposite problem with my lockrite in the front end, it doenst want to disengage ever, so its like i have a welded front end. been looking around at it seems it might be installed wrong. i havent had a chance to check yet.

ever since i burned it on, i been thinking about it to be honest. I build it with a claytons tubed truss in front of me and it really isnt that much taller than it. ill have to take some measurements and see exactly how high mine is in comparison to my buddys claytons truss.

there is room for it to be lowered though, so you think that would help?

as for the lockrite, you must have it in wrong. ive ran an aussie in my d30 before the swap and it worked flawlessly. and the lockrite in my 60 clicks quietly around turns and locks fully when i need it.

[AgitatedPancake]

Is your truss your main limiting factor besides your shocks?

[bigbluezj94]

went out in the desert to burn my xmas tree and flxed out in a wash. i maxed out the rear end and started lifting a little and about maxed out the front when the spring popped out.

i had been losing the back every second so i welded on so ext posts but i didnt think i could lose the front lol

[bigbluezj94]

also having a problem up front when articulating, my driver side up is contacting the pumpkin and pinion yoke. you can see where the yoke is scraping away metal from the arm. might have to do some re-arranging.

[Technohead]

also having a problem up front when articulating, my driver side up is contacting the pumpkin and pinion yoke. you can see where the yoke is scraping away metal from the arm. might have to do some re-arranging.

The Clayton arms have a small bend to avoid that interference.

[bigbluezj94]

The Clayton arms have a small bend to avoid that interference.

really?? they look straight to me?? i know the pumpkin side has an angle at the top, mine do too..



sitting flat i have a good 1/2 to 3/4" between the yoke and the arm. the actual housing is nowhere near it.