roof replacement

[BigDaveZJ]

I've been contemplating simply replacing the section of roof I cut out years ago instead of messing around with custom tops and crap like that if I kept it open and just added new tube.

I'd find a donor ZJ, cut off the sheet metal I need, and basically just weld it back on to mine. Obviously I would add some reinforcement still because the unibody is weak enough as it is. My thought was a section of tube along the whole seam on the roof, down bars at approx a 45* angle to the rear floorboards, and a piece of tube to act as a x-member along the unibody rails, basically where Clayton mounts their triangulated shock kit.

At the d-pillar and the top of the c-pillar the unibody is actually 3-ply, and unless I can work some magic I don't see a way to get to the middle section with a welder, so I planned on basically adding fish plates to the interior over those sections to help increase the strength.

Assuming I can find a ZJ that I can cut up like this, have I completely lost my marbles? lol

[Ken L]

I'd see the toughest part of this is getting the windows and the hatch to fit depending on where you cut originally. People used to do "clips" back in the day where they took a front damaged car and a rear damaged car and made one from the good stuff with minimal effort, so it can be done successfully.

Headliner and the trim panels would cover up the welds on the inside. And on the C and D pillar, couldn't you cut a section of the interior ply so that you can weld the middle ply together, then weld that interior ply as a patch panel? Although fish plating would add strength too. I was just looking at a way to get as much welded together as possible for strength etc.

Would you still run some sort of a hoop at the C pillar? Or would the idea be to get away from that?

[Derek33]

Make a soft top!

[paulkeith]

My gears actually get turning on this each time I see the ROTM submission format guidelines where it says it was your least favorite mod.

I think if you got what you needed off a junkyard donor, this is 100% doable. It wouldn't be easy, especially getting everything lined up and correct, but definitely doable.

I think you could cut away the interior plies and weld the middle ones, then reweld the interior plies as Ken mentioned. Also, I think your idea of adding some tubes for reinforcement is a good idea.

go for it!

[19onebadzj96]

My buddy made a soft top for when he cut his roof off just like yours. It only cost him like 200 from a upholstry shop and it had windows very similar material to those of wrangler soft tops. It looked badass and in my opinon would be a better plan.

[ATL ZJ]

My first reaction to this idea is... seriously?

If you get frustrated trimming fenders, I'd advise you to opt for something easier like a soft top or closing in the cab at the C pillar. Sorry to be so blunt, but we all know how much of a pain the uni can be to work with... and getting the hatch and the windows to line up will likely take a body shop or divine intervention. If you do decide to take on the project, I wish you the best... I won't be jealous!

[FortCollinsZJ]

I'd close it up, make a deck with the spare under it, and use the space around it for tool boxes, have the deck act as a lid for the tools/spare, and be done with it.

Again Dave, if you want to bend some tube, let me know this spring.

[Cody]

Just buy a new ZJ and swap your junk over.

[Sudz]

Just buy a new ZJ and swap your junk over.

X2

exactly what i was thinking - do a clean start

[canadian_driver]

Just buy a new ZJ and swap your junk over.

x3. fix any mistakes you made with the first one aswel

[SirFuego]

My buddy made a soft top for when he cut his roof off just like yours. It only cost him like 200 from a upholstry shop and it had windows very similar material to those of wrangler soft tops. It looked badass and in my opinon would be a better plan.

Yeah after I get skins on the robot (which keep getting pushed off), I'd like to go this route for mine so I can wheel in the winter without freezing my ass off. I've had a couple suggestions to get the Amish to do it because they do great work for relatively cheap.

Dave, have you priced or looked into a soft top? My buddy who did the white bobbed XJ I have a few pics of in my build thread said that welding his hatch back on was a huge PITA because the welding took forever.

[BigDaveZJ]

If you get frustrated trimming fenders,

When did I get frustrated trimming fenders?

Just buy a new ZJ and swap your junk over.

My buddy who did the white bobbed XJ I have a few pics of in my build thread said that welding his hatch back on was a huge PITA because the welding took forever.

Don't have the $$$ to buy another rig right now, but I've got a welder and time. Plus by the time I move over all of the suspension (including cutting off Clayton's brackets and welding them back) and moving over all of the other little stuff, I think I've got way more time invested into this than welding the roof and hatch back on. The ONLY thing about my ZJ right now that I don't like is that I hacked the ass off, and this seems to me to be the most direct route to fix that.

I've thought a lot about the soft top route too, and still consider that be an option. Either way I need to rework the way it's setup right now as it just doesn't work well in a lot of areas.

[chadjans]

You have a welder and time. Spend the money you would have on a donor ZJ for the roof section on some DOM and make a cage.




















Quit pussy footing around. Join the caged group. It is much safer over here.

[BigDaveZJ]

If I wanted a buggy, that might work, but I don't want a buggy. And I won't be spending money on a donor ZJ, there are several being parted out in the area that have the sheet metal I need and I can get that metal for <$200.

[AgitatedPancake]

The question is Dave, if you could soft top it for $200 or replace the stock top for $200, which would you do?

[BigDaveZJ]

A soft top would probably accomplish what I want, but in the condition my ZJ is in right now it would still take a lot of work to make it ready for a soft top. The corners to the roof need some work to cap them off better, the d-pillar is still just raw from where I cut it, I would want to cap them off and make it look more finished. The edges where the rear side windows used to be are still just the pinch seams, same with where the rear window was. Lots of little areas like that where I want to clean them up because they look like complete shit and it's bugged me since I hacked the roof off. I think getting all of this taken care of wouldn't be as much work as welding a new roof section and d-pillars back on. The fitment of everything would have some more wiggle room, but there'd be just as much welding involved.

Whether I do a soft top or weld a roof back on, there will be some tube work very similar to this done in the back: http://www.colorado4x4.org/gallery/b...s&searchid=296

[BigDaveZJ]

A couple local guys out here that I know did successfully complete a similar job a couple years ago too. They had an XJ that was rolled, cut halfway up the A, B, C, and D pillars. Got a donor top from a junkyard, lined everything up, and all the doors, glass, etc ended up fitting fine and was watertight. They did not use any tube to reinforce anything either after it was all done.

[19onebadzj96]

Here are the best pics I have currently, but I will try and dig up more.

[paulkeith]

I'm telling you, I think you can make this work. It doesn't need to be 100% perfect, and I'd count on putting bolted-in lexan in the place of the molded in side glass. That'd make it easier.

I think this is doable.

[IndyZJ]

It's doable, but would be a TON of bodywork, especially along the roof, to get it to look right and not warp when you're putting it together. Like was said, I'd go with lexan/ plexiglass side windows to make it a little easier. It will also be a bit PITA to get the D pillar lined up just right and get the hatch to work half-way right.

I would look into a soft top. You could finish off the edge from cutting everything off with thin angle iron to cover everything off and have a good platform to work off of. The easy (more costly) way to do it would be to take it to a place that does boat tops. It wouldn't be that tough if you or someone you know knows their way around a sewing machine. There's a ton of info online about making a custom soft top. I've got Bestop's supplier's info somewhere if you're interested.

One more thought - I wonder how close something like an Amigo top would be to working? Anyone?

[chadjans]

If I wanted a buggy, that might work, but I don't want a buggy. And I won't be spending money on a donor ZJ, there are several being parted out in the area that have the sheet metal I need and I can get that metal for <$200.

Cages are a safety neccessaty. Cages do not equal buggy. DOM is 3.50 a foot around here. I would rather build a safety item then having to spend the time welding sheetmetal.

[BigDaveZJ]

Building a cage does not get me any closer to my goal of enclosing my rig. It is a safety necessity for hardcore rock crawling, but I find myself doing less and less of that.

[chadjans]

It is a safety necessity for hardcore rock crawling

I consider a cage just as important as a winch, locker, rocker protection and medium sized tire. Especially on a unibody platform. But I guess we can agree to disagree on this one.

[JohnBoulderCO]

I would do a soft top. You already have a "cage" in the back to stiffen up the body and most likely a new "top" would hit any of the metal work. Not to mention getting the hatch lined up etc.
I painted several cars and did some body work back in my high school days and it took a lot of work to hide any welding, bondo etc.

I think unless you want to spend tons of time with putty and sanding it's going to look like a getto toupee instead of an intended soft top safari look.

[chadjans]

Have you considered grafting a tailgate top in behind the c pilars and turning the rear into a bed? I remember that awesome red AEV XJ done years ago.