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10-17-2009, 06:31 PM
I purchased these motor mounts because mine were completely shot. The upgrade from stock rubber to heavy duty poly urethane is an obvious good choice. The torque from the engine can severely damge the stock rubber mounts and require a swap to new ones, or you can upgrade and never look back.
First things first, you need to take stress OFF of the stock mounts. You need to find a location to do so as you see fit. I used my hydro mount as a base and then used a baby bottle jack with a piece of wood and jacked up the oil pan like so.
Jack it up a few turns until the bolts can be taken out of the mounts without a lot of effort.
Here is the driver side mount.
You can see all of the front bolts that need to be removed. The front two on the left you see have nuts welded to the backside, so you can just unscrew them, then there are two more on the back that do NOT have welded nuts. It is a pain in the ass, but you have to fish a wrench in from the top to hold the nut while you back the bolt out with a ratchet.
Once you get all the bolts out, simply lower the mount and remove it.
Here is a few comparison shots of the stock mount and the beefy Crawler Ready. You can see the obvious reasons why you would want to upgrade to these.
When you are ready to re-install the mount, simply slide the Crawler Ready one in place.
Due to the engine sagging because of failing stock mounts, you might need to jack the engine up a bit to make the bolts line up.
Go ahead and put the long bolt in the main opening to support the mount, and then thread in the upper two bolts.
Then move to the back side. Insert the bolts into the openings.
Here is how I held the nuts on the backside, it is a PITA!
Tighten it up and then we can move to the passenger side!
The passenger side has a bracket that slides over the engine block mount. It has two bolts and two nuts and a main long bolt/nut that hold it on, a bit different than the driver side.
Here is a view of the backside.
The bolts are EXTREMELY hard to get to on the front side.
Here is a picture of how I managed to get the first bolt out.
The upper bolt was more of a pain. I had to get my friend to hold a baby adjustable wrench on the front side, then manually crank out the nut on the backside with an adjustable as well because getting a ratchet in there is not happening.
After taking 30 min to get it out you can see why I needed to upgrade..
Install is same as removal, just feed the CR mount up there, get everything to line up, and tighten it down.
Lower everything down, make sure everything is tight and you are done!
Check them puppies out!
10-17-2009, 09:39 PM
When are you replacing the transmission mount with poly?
10-17-2009, 09:50 PM
I have wanted to replace the tranny mount with a poly one for a long time, but can't find one.
10-18-2009, 12:15 PM
Crawler Ready doesnt make a poly tranny mount yet
10-18-2009, 01:29 PM
That is my point. Differential-of materials has now been introduced.Originally Posted by fortCollinsZJ
10-18-2009, 02:50 PM
prolly a dumb question considering you dont dd yours, so you prolly dont care, but how bad are vibrations on the interior now that you have a hard poly bushing? in my 07 civic si, i had boomba racing motor mounts, and the vibs were somewhat unbearable for dd'ing.
10-18-2009, 03:31 PM
Nice write-up, Slappy!
10-23-2009, 09:12 PM
How much where the mounts?
10-23-2009, 09:17 PM
check his website.
11-19-2009, 07:27 AM
bump
im curious about the above as well
mine are on their way out
11-19-2009, 09:02 AM
I guess I wouldn't know. I have so many vibrations from my tires and such, I wouldn't know if there is a "new" one coming directly from the motor mounts.
11-19-2009, 09:38 PM
I have these mounts as well. The vibes are more noticable but like maxx said its hard to know how much is strictly from the mounts, the rest of my truck is far from stock as well. whatever vibes are from the mounts are worth it to not have to change mounts every year
11-20-2009, 03:29 AM
that is reassuring. gotta save some dough then ill get these at some point
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