|
Just curious what you guys are running for power inverters?
a little 400watt inverter, and when i go wheeling i take a gas powered generator sometimes.
Will a 400 watt power a small air compressor?
If your looking for one to have mounted permenantly, go with something like a 2000w. That is enough to power a 4.5" angle grinder and man there have been some times I wish I had one with me on the trail.
I remember a GSW where my angle grinder and small power invertor got the Cody buggy off the trail....
It kept tripping the breaker and barely spun the grinder but worked. Not sure on the size.
You first need to select what product you are wanting to use. Get the starting and running amps for the product then use this formula to see if it will work. Amps x Volts = Watts. Your starting amps on the product will be considered the surge on the compressor. So if you had a comp that runs at 10 amps and has a 15 amp start up you would need a 1000 watt inverter with a 1500 watt surge. When selecting you inverter you don't want to exceed 75% of you max load. So if you had a 1000 watt load you would idealy want a minnium on 1200 to 1500 watts of constent power.
I think an ac compressor would be cheaper, pun intended =P
I was going to run a 2500W Cobra inverter, but I read some pretty bad reviews, it seems they over-rated the hell out of it. So Im back looking for a decent 2500W inverter. This should power any single AC powered device I throw at it, or a few lower Watt hungry items. For me I think 2000-2500W will do the trick. I have been looking for a light weight 110AC compressor with enough ass to run my 1/2 impact, assuming this would be the most CFM hungry device I use at around 5 CFM and 90 PSI. For me its more an issue of where the hell Im going to put the compressor than having enough juice to run it. I may run something like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=65410
and just remote mount the tanks. The best OBA 12vdc compressor I have found cant get close to 5CFM @ 90PSI. Maybe Im not looking hard enough....
Being that I'm a tool tech for H.freight I can tell you that that compressor will not even make a impact fart. You need a avg of 8 to 10 cfm min to make a impact work under load. Most manufactors won't put their load requirements for the stated amount of torque they produce. I have our biggest 110 model compressor which is a 3 hp 21 gallon tank, and it won't even pull my lugnuts of with a IR effecent gun. Heres you best bet for runnig a on board compressor with out doing a york or co2. I have a buddy that uses this and we set a bead on a tire with it and was able to run a nitro cat impact with it.(they are the most effecient guns that I found. He has two of thess comp run ito a 3 gallon tank in his hatch.
I think pep boys have these for like 50.00
Holy shit that’s good information man, thank you.
All my impacts are high end Snap-On these days, not because Im a tool whore, I just learned the hard way that shat impacts are not worth the drama when your paycheck depends on them. So I would like to think I have a reasonable CFM draw on the 1/2".
Found it: http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/nav...&ci_sku=987348 This was the cheapest place I could find (Sams club, Im not a member, boo!). Pepboys looks like they may not carry it any longer. There are loads of good reviews on this thing: http://www.amazon.com/Master-Flow-MF...#RJ70UZ2JA8EFJ
I may try two of these and an air tank. At $50 a piece and only 10lbs each what the hell, Ill run them off the aux battery. Again thank you.
Last edited by albersondh; 03-01-2009 at 12:57 AM.
I've got a Xantrex Xpower or something (http://www.rvtoyoutlet.com/c-listall...3-1500-02.html) that was on sale at frys for $89. I think it was mispriced but the salespeople assured me that they don't make mistakes. So far it's outlasted two different cars and i don't think I've ever maxed it out either. I used to have it mounted on my transmission tunnel with one outlet up front and the other with a power strip going to the back seats. I'm sure it's overrated for what i paid, but it does what I need it to do so I don't much care.
Any difference between the Master Flow 1050 and 1052?
I run a Xantrex 1750 watt, I've ran a chop saw and cut through an axle before, I run 1.5 h.p. air compressor in -20C temp.
One of the biggest things to check is the sign wave the invertor will produce, I've seen lots of cheap ones fry alot of things and watts= voltage x amps tough to get more than what your altinator can put out, no sense getting a 2500watt when you can only 1800 out of the altinator. Get a capacitor to help run high starting amp devices
The inverter will draw current from the batteries, while the alt trys to keep up with charging duties. A 3000w inverter will draw 250A, while my alt may only charge up to 135A at RPM. So at full tilt the RC of the batteries would fall off with the alt maxed out and the batteries would start to loose RC. I cant think of anything that I would use that would require a constant 3000 or even 2000W for any extended period of time, but I can think of plenty of devices that would require that power for short bursts. I would rather have it for short bursts, and not need it, then need it, and not have it. I don’t think anyone is taking there washer and dryer to the field.
Good idea on the cap for inrush, Ill be doing that.
What components have you seen fry because someone used a simulated 60hz sign wave in lieu of a true sign wave? I know it can happen but for all the simple junk Ill be using I don’t think it will be an issue but I would like to know what components are prone to failure with a simulated sign wave?
I have a Vector 800 Watt unit mounted inside my WJ and a 1500 watt unit that can be clamped to the battery. I use the crap out of the 800 watt model for charging batteries amoungst other things. The 800 watt model will power a dremel type tool very well. I keep a dremel in my Jeep with several types of tips for ginding and welding prep. Works great for that. Even cuts through automatic transmission lines in a jiffy. (sorry Dave) I really dont use the larger inverter much as a result. Vector makes a lot of the inverters you see including Coleman and Black & Decker.
I will agree with that
The inverter will draw current from the batteries, while the alt trys to keep up with charging duties. A 3000w inverter will draw 250A, while my alt may only charge up to 135A at RPM. So at full tilt the RC of the batteries would fall off with the alt maxed out and the batteries would start to loose RC. I cant think of anything that I would use that would require a constant 3000 or even 2000W for any extended period of time, but I can think of plenty of devices that would require that power for short bursts. I would rather have it for short bursts, and not need it, then need it, and not have it. I don’t think anyone is taking there washer and dryer to the field.
Lots of cordless drill chargers have fryed, I went through two drill batterys and chargers(Milwaukee) on two different invertors myself and the battery life will also be affected, A pulsed wave will affect things. I have seen alot more invertors crap out then the things there running although. I work at alot of remote sites with generator power at that is a true sin wave with a small Hz error the odd time and that will shorten the life of power equipment, small bumps can fry stuff quickWhat components have you seen fry because someone used a simulated 60hz sign wave in lieu of a true sign wave? I know it can happen but for all the simple junk Ill be using I don’t think it will be an issue but I would like to know what components are prone to failure with a simulated sign wave?
I’m looking at there 3000W right now. There are cheaper units out there but I have read some bad reviews on all but the Vector models. To get into a true AC sign wave you’re pretty much doubling the price of the inverter. Any electronics that I run that are sensitive and expensive have there own transformers (lap-top, ect) with built in regulatory circuits and protection. There taking that shat phony sign wave and turning it back into DC. Ill take my chances on the simulated sign wave. I can totally understand spending the money on true sign wave it its how you make a living. Ill do a review on the 3000W Vector once I get in installed.
You hit the nail on the head with the transformers acting like a regulator. In most DC rechargeable devices there is a transformer in the charger or power supply. Let us know what you think of the 3k. I have decided for my purposes and tools that I run that I am in good shape.
check out the batcap there a good capacitors, the extra money on a capacitor is well worth it, you'll be able to run way more stuff, even with two batterys the quickness of a capacitor will help even more
A mistmatched pulsed waved reflects back into the source. Any mismatch (the non sine part) component that is. If it is close your probably ok, if not your gonna take a lot of heat (pun intended). also there is a phase component but I am not an AC engineer so not sure of the impact. To charge batteries all you kill are the batteries. Not sure i would use mutch else on is unless i didnt care if it died (easy to replace might as well use it till it dies harbor freight!!!)
« Previous Thread | Next Thread » |
Thread Information |
Users Browsing this ThreadThere are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests) |