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That's the plan. I haven't mocked up the new fan yet, but I'm assuming that the taurus shroud will work pretty well with radiator. Currently, I'm only running the top half of the stock mech-fan shroud, as the bottom part broke off last time I changed the water pump. Anything should be better than that setup
Yea mine runs about 190 usually, If it goes higher I put it on high and it goes right back down. I want to put in some hood vents to let all that hot air out also. Im not paying any kind of money for a vent tho, If i cant find some for free or almost free if not I will just make holes with the hole saw.lol
I agree. Ditch the mech fan. I picked up almost 2 mpg on my wj when I did it. The taurus fan will move more than enough air.
Well you guys should be happy, as I test fitted it today, and there was no way that I could fit both fans on there.
Today's progress involved lots of wiring and some pressure washing. I just finished replacing my battery terminal connectors, the negative-to-ground and positive-to-fusebox wires, rewired my amp, added a second fuse to the power wire for the amp, and rewired my daylighters. After all that was done, I fed some degreaser into the pressure washer and cleaned out the engine bay. WOW it actually looks decent without years and years of mud and dirt.
Tomorrow I plan on wiring the e-fan/controller, hope it goes smooth!
Last edited by dp96zj; 07-31-2010 at 12:14 AM.
OOOOHHHhh snap! Gives thy finger. LOL
lol
Crap.
The fan and controller are all wired up, but not functioning properly. If the fan is grounded to the chassis, it will run nonstop (even if the engine is off). It seems like it's bypassing the "switched ignition" input. I don't see why it would bypass it though, since I used a piggyback fuse holder and connected my "switched ignition" wire to the fuel pump fuse. I'm gonna shoot an email to the SPAL tech support and see if they have any ideas.
Second, more predominant problem: Connectors that are close to the engine on 14 year old vehicles are brittle. The harness-side connector for my coolant temperature sender is completely fubar'd. The retaining clip on it broke, and the wires pulled themselves out of the connector when I was trying to wrestle the upper rad hose on. You V8 guys know the lack of space I'm dealing with in there.
Anyway, the PCM reads the coolant temp sensor for input when the vehicle starts, and with that connector fucked, the heep wont start.
If anyone has a scrap 5.2 harness they don't mind chopping apart, I may need your connector. If I get some time off of work in the coming days, I'll head to the stealership and try to get it there. I don't mind paying full price at the dealer for the connector if it isn't brittle and heat-baked for 14 years. Other than that, I'll be headed to the junkyard.
Last edited by dp96zj; 08-02-2010 at 11:42 PM.
Yep thats bout right.
I think that connector is still availible at the dealer. IIRC I replaced one a few weeks ago. Do yourself a favor and replace that sensor at the same time. Not sure about the controller issue you are having. Wait. The fuel pump fuse may be ahead of the relay on your jeep if so it will have constant power to it. HTH
You should take a multimeter to a couple of fuses while the key is in the off position. I think I tried all of them in the main fuse block in the engine bay and it did not work.
Do you think you could get me a part number for the sensor connector? Or what should I ask for? Usually when I go in there and try to explain what I need (if I don't have a specific part number), the dumbass behind the counter gets extremely confused. I looked in my "Parts Catalog" pdf and couldn't find it... It pretty much looks like a generic two-prong sensor, IMO.
And yeah, I think I'll replace the sensor as well. I'm still working on finding a "switched ignition" source.
Last edited by dp96zj; 09-21-2010 at 01:25 PM.
Most of the relays in the pdc will have a switched ignition turn on going to them. That is what I would use. Im not at work today but I can check the pn# tomorrow. It will be in the star parts connector section under coolant temp sensor 2 way connector black if you feel lucky.
I went to the dealership today and ordered it. They had to get it from another dealer in town, so it'll be 3-5 days before I have it in hand. In the meantime, I'll tweak with the fan.
While I was there, I checked out some of the new Grand Cherokees. Needless to say, things sure have changed over the years.
Can you imagine how sweet a 2010 GC would be with 2010 rubicon running gear sitting at bout 7 inches with some 36 iroks?
I agree about the 011 Grand. Im not impressed. It is less enthusiast and more dental hygenist than ever.
Made some progress on the engine compartment, finishing up the e-fan wiring as well as re-routing a bunch of my wires.
E-fan vs stock mechanical fan:
New clamps vs old clamps:
New battery setup and e-fan:
My new fan "controller":
E-fan switch (auto/off/high):
Yup, I gave up on the SPAL PWM controller. If I would've used it, I still would've had to run additional relays, so it was easier to just wire it up homebrew. If anyone wants the SPAL unit, it's pretty much brand new and in the FOR SALE section.
I was able to wire up the new setup fairly easily, thanks to PilotAustin, SirFuego, and ZJ_TINS, thanks again guys! I also have the wiring diagram if anyone needs help wiring up an e-fan using the auto/off/high switch setup.
Last edited by dp96zj; 09-21-2010 at 01:26 PM.
I would like a picture of my wiring diagram! i lost my original that I scanned in for you and your pretty one is much nicer
Glad to see that you got that done finally. With this heat we have going on here right now, its a life saver.
Questions
Q 1. Did you get the high side working?
Q 2. What temp did you set it up to come on?
Q 3. What relay did you use for the high side?
Q 4. Why is this question here?
Q 5. Hookem Horns BTW?
Last edited by PilotAustin; 08-22-2010 at 07:27 PM. Reason: Hookem Horns BABY
I'll upload the fancy MS-Paint diagram in just a couple minutes. As for the questions:
1 - Yup, I got it working using the wiring diagrams. It's hooked up to the switch and runnin'!
2 - I haven't really messed with the controller itself. To be honest, I'm just glad it works. I'll probably set it to come on around 180* or so since that's what my t-stat is.
3 - I was planning on using a 50A relay, but none of the stores I went to carried them. So I ended up going with a 40A "normally open" relay.
4 and 5 -
Last edited by dp96zj; 08-22-2010 at 07:35 PM.
i wired my switch on to the radio, aftermarket head has 10 amp fuse plus a 30 for the factory part, so im not to worried about blowing somthing up, when i roll through i show you what im talking about.
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