dp96zj's Maintenance Thread

[it usually runs fine]

I want to see that diagram.Mines just been running off of a 50amp 3 position switch with 40 amp inline fuses wired straight to the battery.

[PilotAustin]

Haha he would

Hopefully I catch it before it gets too hot. I have it wired to a switched ignition source, which allows me to leave the toggle switch on even when the engine's off, so that should help me out. But I betcha I forget about it at least once!

With the wiring diagram I gave you, you should be able to leave it on auto and it not run unless the ign is on.

[SirFuego]

Hopefully I catch it before it gets too hot. I have it wired to a switched ignition source, which allows me to leave the toggle switch on even when the engine's off, so that should help me out. But I betcha I forget about it at least once!

Shouldn't matter as long as you don't forget to kill the ignition. You have the three-way switch wired to the ignition, so the relays will shut off once you kill the ignition even if you leave it switched to "High".

EDIT: PilotAustin beat me to it.

[SirFuego]

Why did you put in a 30A inline fuse for the high side? Because the fuse is much cheaper to replace than the relay?

EDIT: Looks like you deleted the diagram..

[dp96zj]

Yup, it's wired to the switched ignition and should come on whenever the heep's started (as long as I don't flip the switch off).

Here's the diagram:


The "controller" is this unit:
Part # 226204 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...P|GRP2061A____

[PilotAustin]

I want to see that diagram.Mines just been running off of a 50amp 3 position switch with 40 amp inline fuses wired straight to the battery.

I have mine wire same exactly to the point of almost the same as his. Should have just done and gone down here where im at and come and gandered at it here.

your diagram is better than mine

[PilotAustin]

Why did you put in a 30A inline fuse for the high side? Or was the relay you picked up too expensive to risk blowing it out?

EDIT: Looks like you deleted the diagram..

Ditto? I put the 30amp inline fuse on the low side to protect the controller

[dp96zj]

Why did you put in a 30A inline fuse for the high side? Or was the relay you picked up too expensive to risk blowing it out?

EDIT: Looks like you deleted the diagram..

I'm having trouble with the photobucket, the diagram is freakin' huge on my monitor and I'm trying to resize it. Anyway, I already had the inline fuse holder coming off the battery from the SPAL controller, so I thought I'd hook it up to the new controller.

lol whoops, I put the inline fuse on the wrong line in the diagram, it's actually going to the controller, not the high-relay. The relays were like $8 though...

[SirFuego]

I'm having trouble with the photobucket, the diagram is freakin' huge on my monitor and I'm trying to resize it. Anyway, I already had the inline fuse holder coming off the battery from the SPAL controller, so I thought I'd hook the controller.

lol whoops, I put the inline fuse on the wrong line in the diagram, it's actually going to the controller, not the high-relay.

And your controller is $35. I just assumed the controller had a built in fuse, so I didn't really think to add a fuse before the controller. If you can't afford to replace an $8 relay, you might as well put a fuse to protect the controller.

EDIT: Nevermind! Just saw your edit.

Oh and FWIW, a fuse is usually denoted by a sine wave with an open dot on each side.

[it usually runs fine]

You still in beaumont Austin?

[dp96zj]

hahaha too many edits!

[it usually runs fine]

whered youd getd yourd relays fromd.

[PilotAustin]

You still in beaumont Austin?

Got a job interview at the GMC Stealership in the morning back in humble so Ill leave beaumont around 8. BUT.... I will come back sometime this week.


Got my relay from advance

[SirFuego]

Actually, now that I can see the pinouts on the controller, is the relay on the low side necessary? I didn't realize the controller had a switched ignition feed, so I think you could have gotten away with wiring the Auto switch directly to pin 7 -- then wiring pin 2 directly to the low end. Or does the controller recommend the relay there?

[it usually runs fine]

Cool let me know when you come in you can swing by and let me scope out your fan shit and take you for a ride in the beast.

[dp96zj]

Oh and FWIW, a fuse is usually denoted by a sine wave with an open dot on each side.

Damn, that must've just slipped my mind when I was making my uber-technical diagram

whered youd getd yourd relays fromd.

I got the relays from Radioshack. Oreilly and Advanced Auto only had 30A relays around me.

[PilotAustin]

Actually, now that I can see the pinouts on the controller, is the relay on the low side necessary? I didn't realize the controller had a switched ignition feed, so I think you could have gotten away with wiring the Auto switch directly to pin 7 -- then wiring pin 2 directly to the low end.

Well the relay on the low side is for when you want high side. You cant run both high and low.

[it usually runs fine]

Damn, that must've just slipped my mind when I was making my uber-technical diagram

I got the relays from Radioshack. Oreilly and Advanced Auto only had 30A relays around me.

Thanks I will check them out.

[SirFuego]

Well the relay on the low side is for when you want high side. You cant run both high and low.

Understood, but if you wire the "Auto" way of the switch to the controller to pin 7 of the controller, the controller shouldn't turn the fan on anyways because the controller would be turned off when the switch is "Off" or "High". In his diagram, the controller is always on when the ignition is on. My question about changing the wiring would involve the controller physically being shut off when the switch isn't set to Auto. If you wire pin 7 to "Auto" the relay would act as nothing more than a fuse (which isn't really necessary since all the inputs to the controller are already fused)...

Unless I'm making incorrect assumptions about what pin 7 does on the controller..

EDIT: I know this way works, but I'm just looking to see if it could perhaps be simplified.

[PilotAustin]

Understood, but if you wire the "Auto" way of the switch to the controller to pin 7 of the controller, the controller shouldn't turn the fan on anyways because the controller would be turned off when the switch is "Off" or "High". In his diagram, the controller is always on when the ignition is on. My question about changing the wiring would involve the controller physically being shut off when the switch isn't set to Auto. If you wire pin 7 to "Auto" the relay would act as nothing more than a fuse (which isn't really necessary since all the inputs to the controller are already fused)...

Unless I'm making incorrect assumptions about what pin 7 does on the controller..

well I dont have a diagram for the controller itself... so what was to happen if the a/c was to kick on? I didnt know these things so i just set it up with that relay. Its kinda a fail safe you know?

EDIT!!! saw your edit. This could be simplified somehow but for me this was the best way. I just wanted to eliminate any factor of both sides running at the same time

[SirFuego]

well I dont have a diagram for the controller itself... so what was to happen if the a/c was to kick on? I didnt know these things so i just set it up with that relay. Its kinda a fail safe you know?

Yeah I hear ya. I don't have the diagram for the controller either. I was assuming that the pin 7 is basically an on/off switch for the controller (I can't think of any other reason to have this pinout on the controller to be honest). If that's the case, the A/C and Temp Sensor wouldn't cause the output to go high if pin 7 is "off".

Don't get me wrong -- I know the way it's set up will work, but I think it could be simplified without any repercussions. Better safe than sorry -- especially when you don't know the details on the controller.

I'm going to bed so I don't need to keep editing my posts!

[PilotAustin]

Yeah I hear ya. I don't have the diagram for the controller either. I was assuming that the pin 7 is basically an on/off switch for the controller (I can't think of any other reason to have this pinout on the controller to be honest). If that's the case, the A/C and Temp Sensor wouldn't cause the output to go high if pin 7 is "off".

Don't get me wrong -- I know the way it's set up will work, but I think it could be simplified without any repercussions. Better safe than sorry -- especially when you don't know the details on the controller.

I'm going to bed so I don't need to keep editing my posts!

I think you are right also. But do you understand that the controller is only a one speed/ dual fan controller? im kinda following but kinda not

[dp96zj]

Looks like I'm not yet done with the cooling system. I drove an hour on the highway today with the outside temp around 105*, and the engine was at the mark ABOVE 210*. This was with the a/c off. Granted, I'm pretty sure that my temp at highway speed was this high before the e-fan. Before the swap, I read that the e-fan helps mainly for slow, city driving, so I wasn't expecting an improvement on the highway.

Would it be recommended to cut a couple holes in the shroud to allow more airflow? I know that wont result in any significant temp drops, but maybe a little bit. I have a 3 core all-metal CSR radiator that's only a couple years old. Does this pretty much point to the water pump? I had it replaced a few years back with an OEM equivalent, so nothing top of the line....

[Jeeptech01]

Are the fins in the rad or condenser packed up with mud?

[SirFuego]

Check for air in your system (remove radiator cap and squeeze upper radiator hose slowly, if bubbles escape, there is air in the system and you will see that the coolant level was now lower).

Also, how does your upper radiator hose mount? I had a similar issue with mine and it was due to the stock clamp not gripping tight enough. I replaced it with a hose clamp and it's much better.