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04-28-2009, 10:26 PM
Wow.. never thought stretching the springs would hurt them.. thanks for the heads up..
Got the steering drag link reamed out, and installed.. sort of. TNT sent me the wrong ends, and that made the drag link too short, so i sleeved it temporarily to get me around, until they send me the right parts.
a nicely reamed hole:
I had to remove the JKS sway bar link on the pass side, and grind down the mounting tab to clear at full lock. I will have to move the link up on that side by making a small bracket that raises the hole up an inch or so.
Drives a lot better now, but feels a little wobbley on the front end now. Its only been aligned by tape measure, so after i get the new correct drag link, and ends, i will get it aligned by a pro, and also get the wheels and tires balanced too.
04-29-2009, 01:17 AM
Yeah pop those upper retainers off and either add a few inches to the post, or if you wanna be really bling add some limit straps.
04-29-2009, 12:24 PM
Limit straps are not bling. They are essential.
05-04-2009, 07:47 PM
I got the sway bar mounts moved up.. to clear the new steering at full lock..
I also machined up some spacers to move the sway bar end links away from the mounting plates to keep them from rubbing and making noise...
I also flexed it a bit to see where i need to do some more trimming to the fenders.. here is a little i added to the front. I took off about 1" from that main lip, and pounded up near it to give it some more clearance at full steering lock, and tuck.
05-07-2009, 12:06 AM
Did some trimming today..
Before:
After:
then i found a little spot to flex it out, and see if i need to do more or not:
On the rear, i need to trim some more of the bumper.. but it should be good after that. the tire tucks into the fender, so i don't need to cut any sheet metal. I just folded up the lip inside with a baseball bat:
So i still have a little work to do.. gotta trim the rear bumper a little more, and get the back side of the front fender a little more.....
05-07-2009, 12:16 AM
all you need is some ghost green flames and skulls and we can call it GRAVE DIGGER
05-07-2009, 01:19 AM
LMAO!Originally Posted by bnboffroad
Do it!
05-09-2009, 01:24 PM
Good thinking on fixing the TB. I flipped the DL and have some fun bumsteer, nothing major but when driving to Tahoe for a few hours it gets annoying. Have you had it alligned yet?
05-09-2009, 09:28 PM
How did you trim specifically?
05-11-2009, 11:11 AM
I actually did the track bar mount before i got the flipped DL on, and it was totally scary to drive.. but with both done now, it works pretty good. I think as good as it can. I haven't had it professionally aligned yet, since i am still waiting for a new drag link so i can use the chevy 1 ton end on the pitman arm side for the most droop possible. Once i get that on there, then i will have it aligned professionally. Right now it was just done by my tape measure. I drive it every day to work, so its pretty close.
I laid down about 3-4 layers of blue painters masking tape, drew down some lines with a sharpie, and cut with a jig saw/scroller saw with a 24 tooth per inch blade. Then I sanded the edges down with a round flapper wheel, and a small vibrating sander to help get the edges clean and straight.
Jigsaw: http://www.blackanddecker.com/Produc.../5/JS515_1.jpg
Flapper: http://www.industrial-supply-store.c.../PFE_45160.jpg
sander: http://www.blackanddecker.com/Produc.../8/QS800_1.jpg
On the rear, i just folded up the inner lip with a baseball bat, since the tire tucks up into the fender. I just had to cut the rear bumper to clear the rear tires, and i moved the charcoal canister mount back a little.
05-11-2009, 01:24 PM
I think you may still have to cut the front of your front fenders to match the top part, so there is only like an inch before the bend. It looks like the tire gets very close, and I can't tell if your at full stuff or not.
05-11-2009, 03:12 PM
yeah. last week, i tested it again, and i cut more off that front lip you are talking about. I ended up stopping right in the middle where the bolt is that holds the fender to the inner part, and trimming more of the inner part back as well to clear when the tires are turned in. I also took more off the back bumper, so it all clears now. When i was stuffed, i measured my front shock length and it was about 16" roughly, and my new shocks are going to have a collapased length of about 20", so i will be moving the axle side mount lower by about 2.5" - 3" so that will raise my full stuff length to about 1" higher, so i shouldn't have any rubbing at all once i get the new shocks and mounts made. I won't have quite as much compression, but i am shooting for at least 12" stroke shocks, so i will have tons of droop i am hoping.
05-13-2009, 09:39 PM
Great thread. great pics. great build. thanks!!
05-17-2009, 09:49 PM
took the dub out to Sycamore Creek, and Saguaro Lake. Did the trail that goes from upper to lower sycamore, and then went to butcher jones and headed out to the lake from there. I did the big climb right near the cove, that heads up to the trail that goes out to the finger that people jump off of. I barely even slipped a tire going up it. I am pretty impressed with these vari-lock diffs. I didn't think they would work as good as they do. Whenever i get a tire slipping, i just add a little brake, and it transfers power to the others, and rolls right over an obstacle.
I also got a chance to try out my monster valves. It takes longer to thread off the valve stem caps than it does to drop the air pressure, and fill the air pressure.. i am pretty stoked about those.
Here are some pics, and video on the end of some flexin.
05-22-2009, 08:33 PM
We finally got our new lift wired up at work, so we tested it out today.. here are some shots of the under carriage:
05-26-2009, 12:06 AM
'''droool'''
05-26-2009, 12:15 AM
Just out of curiosity more than anything, why are the pads on the lift placed under the floor panel and not under the sliders or something. I would just think that you would want them placed under the strongest place possible..
I was just wondering - I've never operated a lift like that before.
05-26-2009, 12:24 AM
Would you mind if I had sex with your jeep?
05-26-2009, 12:46 AM
looks great dude and very clean I wish I had access to a lift
lol maybe he didn't want to scratch the paint on his slidersjk
05-26-2009, 07:37 AM
out boarded rears? nice!
also, I didn't read your thread, but are those front lower arms claytons? did he change the upper mount?
05-26-2009, 06:24 PM
with the green it looks like an Ax10 RC crawler.
05-26-2009, 06:29 PM
That is some damn fine work there! One of the best lookin' WJ's I've seen for sure
06-10-2009, 06:44 AM
yo Greg, thanks for the post on my build.. i think i might have to make one here on mallcrawlin.. the rig looks sick! I'm glad i got to see it in person out on the trail!
btw.. pictures don't do that green justice.. i'm still seeing spots in my vision from looking at it in the sun
i'm gunna have to read through your build better and figure out completely how you did the track bar and T-n-T mount... i need to do that..
we should have got pics of our rigs next to each other
01' WJ Limited, 33's, LA's etc.... JF 09' GCOTY
06-10-2009, 09:27 AM
the lift pads weren't set on the floor panel. They were set on the "frame rails" where the factory lift positions are. those are the spots its meant to be lifted at, as far as i know.
yup.. whole suspension kit is claytons
06-10-2009, 09:29 AM
311Wj... thanks for posting up those pics.. i know we took some of your ride too.. i will post them up in your thread if you start one..
it was cool hangin with all you guys, and wheelin. I had a really good time, and for sure will be back up there soon!
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