bypassing 2 ABS sensors?

[jborushko]

im getting ready to drop my 14 bolt in. can i somehow bypass the two rear ABS sensors. well the sensors aren't even there so i guess bypassing the signal would be the correct way to say it. i have a abs cut off switch already installed so i can turn the system off remotely. but is there a way to make the ABS system read ONLY off the front two sensors?

maybe i could wire them into the front sensors?

this will all probly be moot after i do my front axle swap, but in the mean time i want the ABS for on the road driving, and the "if something happens/cover my ass thing"

thanks!

i tired a search but came up lacking in the 14bolt area.
i did get the 8.8 to work on ABS though, thats why i did the remote shutoff switch for the ABS system

[chadjans]

Just so I understand the situation you are installing a 14bolt rear axle and you wish to retain the abs?

What are you running for the front axle?

[jborushko]

yeah im installing a 14bolt (with disk brakes) into the rear. as the stock ABS sensors are attached to the turdy5 (which is collecting rust in the yard) and i was able to retain the abs on the 8.8 doing that cross wiring technique.

i want to retain the ABS with the 14 bolt, just for road driving, and just to cover my ass. keeping the insurance company off my back essentially

the front currently is the stock 30. then it will be a HP D44 with the fixens, (but i cant recall if it has ABS rings, probably not)

so what i want is to know is: i can cross wire the rear wires with the front sensors to keep the ABS alive until it eventually gets gutted.

i know it sounds a little hairy, even to me. so if it cant be done and retain some about of safety then the system comes out now.



even after both new axles get in there i would still like to have ABS for the road, as im not quite trailer-ing this rig, nor do i have the capability to do so

[NIK5.9]

In my opinion, it isn't even worth the effort to retain the ABS. With the tire size (my guess is at least 36") the ABS will not work properly anyways. Not to mention that the D44 does not come with ABS, so custom tone rings would have to be made. Bottom line, ditch it.

[rstrucks]

yeah im installing a 14bolt (with disk brakes) into the rear. as the stock ABS sensors are attached to the turdy5 (which is collecting rust in the yard) and i was able to retain the abs on the 8.8 doing that cross wiring technique.

i want to retain the ABS with the 14 bolt, just for road driving, and just to cover my ass. keeping the insurance company off my back essentially

the front currently is the stock 30. then it will be a HP D44 with the fixens, (but i cant recall if it has ABS rings, probably not)

so what i want is to know is: i can cross wire the rear wires with the front sensors to keep the ABS alive until it eventually gets gutted.

i know it sounds a little hairy, even to me. so if it cant be done and retain some about of safety then the system comes out now.



even after both new axles get in there i would still like to have ABS for the road, as im not quite trailer-ing this rig, nor do i have the capability to do so

What is the point of having ABS if you are going to try to feed the ABS system false information? Tying the rear signal into the front could let the rear brakes lock up with out the ABS system even knowing it.

Like has been said already, I'd just ditch it too. Then I'd practice panic stops in a parking lot wet and dry and get used to it.

EDIT: if your worried about the light in the dash, don't. It's easy to pull the bulb.

[Goosed76]

ditto with rstrucks- feeding improper info to the ABS system is probably worse than not having it at all- the system will not function properly and most likely be more of a problem than just running without ABS. And with the tire size change, along with other brake components like calipers(piston size) being changed- the system will not work as intended anyways, ditch the weight. Hell, throw in a bigger master cylinder while you're tearing things apart....

[OverkillZJ]

ABS would be useless if not DANGEROUS with signals from only the front two tires.

That defeats the purpose of the entire system if it can's sense slippage at the rear. Better to just disable the whole system.

[jborushko]

right on guys. looks like ill be tearing it out! i didnt think about the system not working right with different size brake pads and tires.

ha ha save the weight... what the abs pump weigh? a pound?

and its not that i dont know how to stop with out the ABS... i learned how to drive on an old ass truck with real brakes so its no problem for me.

out with the ABS then!!!

but while im on the topic of brakes, i should probably put this in a new thread, but is there a transfer case brake i could put on my 242? with the 14 bolt disk brakes not having an e-brake. has any one done this? or should i just find a cable actuated brake and fab up a bracket?

[rstrucks]

ha ha save the weight... what the abs pump weigh? a pound?


but while im on the topic of brakes, i should probably put this in a new thread, but is there a transfer case brake i could put on my 242? with the 14 bolt disk brakes not having an e-brake. has any one done this? or should i just find a cable actuated brake and fab up a bracket?

Ha, a pound. Tell us how heavy it is when you remove it.

You can use a line lock in a pinch. It's not recommended to use it as an e-brake but it will work for short periods of time.

[jborushko]

Ha, a pound. Tell us how heavy it is when you remove it....

i've already pulled the one out of my parts ZJ... dont remember it being too heavy.... but that was almost half a year ago.

as far as a line lock goes... id rather have something that wont bleed off.

[ATL ZJ]

i've already pulled the one out of my parts ZJ... dont remember it being too heavy.... but that was almost half a year ago.

as far as a line lock goes... id rather have something that wont bleed off.

abs pump is heavier than it looks. every little bit helps.

never had my line lock leak down even with my rig parked on extremely steep hills. but I always leave it in 1st gear 4lo and hook a tire around a rock or tree also.

[JordanA]

I thought that the ABS System wouldn't work at all if only one of the sensors was missing?

[jborushko]

I thought that the ABS System wouldn't work at all if only one of the sensors was missing?

this is true, thats why i had the idea of cross wiring the system to trick it into thinking that they where all there. its do able with the 8.8 because the ABS ring is in the pumpkin, you have to grind off every other tooth then cross wire the wires, there is a write up on it.... http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/sho...8.8+abs&page=3

i wanted to essentially do the same thing but cross wire it to the front. BUT on further deliberation and of course the gentile suggestions from the fellas, im going with tearing it all out, fuck the ABS.

[IndyZJ]

Why not use brackets that will work with an eldorado or similar caliper with the e-brake built in?

With a SYE you could use a t-case brake with a flange output, but that seems like a lot of work.

[jborushko]

Why not use brackets that will work with an eldorado or similar caliper with the e-brake built in?

With a SYE you could use a t-case brake with a flange output, but that seems like a lot of work.

i have an SYE on the drive shaft. and im asking becuase im not at home, and dont recall what is in the big-box-o-parts for the diskbrake conversion... (assuming you ment use the eldorado calipers on the disk brakes not on a mod-ed sye) im pretty sure that the brake callipers i got in the kit do NOT have e-brake option...

[Pitch]

I am using the El-D calipers, and overall have been pretty happy with them. They can be had for <$150/pair if you have core. Or, from places like TSM if you have $$ for new.

I have my ABS rear lines spliced into the front (need a speed signal on the non-mechanical speedo WJ). Like Overkill suggested... it is scary. I have found this out driving in the snow and ice this winter. The ABS system kicks in way more than ever before and has led me to slide past numerous stop signs in the past few weeks.

[Goosed76]

I have my ABS rear lines spliced into the front (need a speed signal on the non-mechanical speedo WJ). Like Overkill suggested... it is scary. I have found this out driving in the snow and ice this winter. The ABS system kicks in way more than ever before and has led me to slide past numerous stop signs in the past few weeks.

sounds like a good reason enough to yank it- it's called 'Anti-Lock Brakes'- so having the brakes lock up is kind of defeating the entire setup. It essentially thinks the rear is slipping when it isn't and the front is in fact whats locking up and begins pulsing everything, and if the rear is in fact locking up, the system has no idea of knowing this and does nothing.
This setup does not work anywhere near the way it should, your better off with no ABS than an ABS system that functions improperly- in my opinion.

If I recall, these ABS pumps are pretty heavy- considering their size because of the pump motor- think Starter- small, dense windings of wire stuffed into a small cylinder.

[jborushko]

so just for shits and grins, i pulled the ABS pump out of the back of the parts jeep...

to include the mounting bracket, line manifold, and all the lines in that general area: the pump weighs approx. 12 lbs

heavier than i thought but not as heavy as ya'll made it sound...

whatever....

so moving onto ABS DELETE im gonna start doing a search but what all is involved and any suggestions on maybe a new brake booster?

[jborushko]

to help answer my question ill link these threads but more info is good.

as ill be having a 14bolt rear and a 3/4ton HP/HD 44 in the front

http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/sho...ght=abs+delete