Strong weatherproof latch?

[paulkeith]

double hinged lid would screw your sealing plans unless you added 2 more hinges to latch each portion.

a tub from solid UHMWPE that size is probably going to cost a fortune. Building a tub out of sheets might be cost effective, you'd have to figure out what to do for potable-safe sealing though.

I'd be down to help you try the plywood route, just as a morbid curiosity.


rereedit:



Mcmcaster 4636T77..$23, 27"x17"x10", FDA compliant. mount that in a sheet with a support under the lip, throw some rubber stripping around the lip that nests against the lid, done and done.

[ATL ZJ]

Ha you're welcome to help regardless of the materials used.

That "tote" is a little larger than I'd like... How about this instead? 4387T54. No FDA stamp but pretty sure it won't kill me.

16" x 10" x 7" for $5 or 24" x 16" x 12" for $10!

[ZigsRig]

If you are looking at going the "tote" route... you sould check these out...

http://www.pelican.com/

i ahve one of these i keep my essentials in on long camping trips..

http://www.pelican.com/cases_detail.php?Case=1630

[ATL ZJ]

If you are looking at going the "tote" route... you sould check these out...

http://www.pelican.com/

i ahve one of these i keep my essentials in on long camping trips..

http://www.pelican.com/cases_detail.php?Case=1630

Pelican cases have been around for years. Thanks for posting that- they may help someone reading this thread who needs basic self-contained storage containers. Obviously they will not work for my purpose, since the method of lid attachment/seal would not be easily compatible with my box. Also, size is extremely important to me... Not looking for a huge "Walmart" family size cooler- just something barely big enough to hold 12-16 bottles of water and a few handfuls of ice. It's a buggy, not a bus.

[ATL ZJ]

ok... still using this as my personal notepad.

My existing cargo floor is 21" front-to-back and 29" wide at its narrowest points. My ammo box for spares is a 60 cal. measuring 5 1/2" x 11" x 16". will lay on it's side.

This means that the cooler portion of my box will need to be less than 10" front-to-back. So the cooler container should have a footprint of around 10"x26" by a max of 10" high.

[unforgiven]

think expanding foam for your insulation. ya know the type you use around the house. works great. build yer outer box, inner box leave idunno, mebbe an inch around the inner, (don't forget to insul the bottom too). easy to do, you can surely figger out an insul lid the same way.

oh yeah, don't forget a drain for the nasty cooler water too, lol.

perfect solution to yer quandry.

or use sheets of 2" blue styro insulation, no need for an inner box, you can even glue it to the lid, for a form fitting close.

we did this on a plywood box bout the same dimensions as yours years ago (bit higher tho like 20"). used it in our van for quite a few years, held lotsa crap for a fam-damily of 6.

put a drain hose through the floor of the van, an drip drip drip goes the nasty cooler water as you drive along. not exactly an environmental risk, its just ice water, lol

wow!!! two whole ideas fer ya in one post. oh and btw the latches ya got picked work the charm from what ive been told.

[paulkeith]

a slow thursday.



an 11" ammo box laid flat on the angled floor ate up 12" of floorspace to fit. left 9" for the cooler compartment.

[ATL ZJ]

a slow thursday.

<picture>

an 11" ammo box laid flat on the angled floor ate up 12" of floorspace to fit. left 9" for the cooler compartment.

tits. A beer earned, sir.

[ZJ TINS]

2x80 gallon hefty bags with ties throw away when done about $1.59.

[ATL ZJ]

2x80 gallon hefty bags with ties throw away when done about $1.59.

um thanks.?

I already built this, but it weighs 60 lbs empty, so it's going on my trailer as a storage bin for parts/spares/straps.

[K2]

I use a ton of those latches at work. Many different ones. You need to make sure and mount them right otherwise they can pop open pretty easily. I also like the idea of the safety latch one, but we have those as well and they are a huge pain in the ass sometimes. I would stay away from them if you feel you can bolt down the other type well. Plus the safety ones, after a lot of use, will push in so they dont latch they jam on the wrong side of the catch. Very annoying and difficult to open.

[WJJEEPIN]

Two options, use jb weld on the aluminum Or make the insirt out of plastic. Cheap, easy to work with and seal it up for a perfect fridge. Just drill out the holes and flush mount the screws to hold it together.

[Mtn WJ]

The one pictured above is almost identical to the one I used on my tire carrier. I thought I would have issues with it popping open but it has yet to happen after about 5K miles. You just have to be careful about where the pivot point is in relation to the catch. If you get it right it self tensions and will stay shut. Its easy to use too.

In a couple of weeks you can check mine out in person. I might even have an extra latch assy kickin around.

I just picked up these from TnT to use on my tire carrier project. I was told the same thing. Installed and adjusted properly these will hold all day long. Be sure the Ubolt clamp is 90degrees from the handle and tensioned tight. Kind of like a tightly set vice grip.

[ATL ZJ]

thanks for the comments guys. As I mentioned, I ditched the combination cooler/storage box idea due to the immense weight of the assembled box. I'm going to build something stronger that will hopefully weigh less than 20 lbs and still offer significant storage. Ryan hooked me up with a 90 degree latch that I am going to use , and I will make sure to mount it correctly.