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Ive seen tj's with the 3 front control arms. Articulate great, but if an upper mount fails or a upper bolt breaks, so does many other things.
Install this yet????
yeap
heres pictures for everybody.... let the criticism begin
Ok so i got some time today to put my HP30 back in the front and put the IRO long arms on at the same time.
First i pulled off my stock control arms.... heres a picture for everyone to see what driving on stock control arms at 4.5" lift for a year will do. you can see how bent up they are from where they contact the axle...im lucky they didnt cave in on me completely.
Next i took off my KevinsOffroad.com Crossmember + TC Skid ( which is for sale.. pm me if interested ) so i could install the new IRO crossmember.
Below are pictures of where the holes for the crossmember need to be drilled... its extremely easy to drill since there is a lip that the bolts/nuts go through....you dont have to fish a nutplate into the unibody ( the rear has a nutplate )
the outer 2 holes are the stock crossmember mounting holes and the 4 other ones are the ones that need drilled
Next we bolted the crossmember on and connected the transmission mount to it.
Connected the LA's to the axle.....then connected them to the IRO crossmember
The install went extremely smooth untill the end...where we ran into a few things that i wanted to make everyone aware of.
- I was at 4.5" of lift and my front driveshaft worked just fine...now that the axle is pushed further forward... my front driveshaft is about 2 7/8" too short. YOU WILL NEED A NEW FRONT DRIVESHAFT for the front long arms... i havnt ordered the rears yet so i dont know about the rear... i would guess that you would need one for the rear as well
- second... stock steering = the suck when it comes to this kit. I called IRO and they said they have ran into this problem before. Where the drag link and tie rod connect to one another was hitting the sway bar mount and the Steering Stabalizer (mount and shock ) when the wheel was turned fully left (SS) or fully right (sway)
The solution.... ( as recommended by IRO ) was the put a ~5 degree bend in the drag link. So we did so and now all is well
Overall im very satisfied with the kit... i havnt gotten a chance to flex it out yet cause ive been too busy with work and school but that will come soon along with pictures of it
I plan on ordering the rear long arms with my tax return and at the same time move up to 6.5" of lift instead of 4.5"
Looks good Matt, you ought to take the right side upper mount off the axle and then truss the whole thing, that would be suhweet.
O man I can't wait to get the front ones! I love the rear long arm so MUCH you going to love the rear long too.
Heres some up to date pictures of the ZJ ( Hanson Offroad front bumper is still off to get fixxed...might just be replaced with a tube bumper to match the rear that is gonna be built for it )
Very nice setup so far!!!!
Is there an advantage/disadvantage with the upper part of the Ylink being fixed as opposed to loose? Just curious as I see it both ways and am fabbing a Y link for my Ranger D30 swap...
Maybe...
Adjustability comes from the large cam, not a threaded insert. Look at the pics in post the previous posts. They look adjustable to me!
the pinion angle is definately adjustable... thats what that silver bracket on the upper mount on the y link is for
as far as the other question goes for why the y link is fixxed and not loose
do you mean why is it welded and gusseted instead of connected with a bolt like this?
the Jeep rides amazing so far... especially since i went from 4.5" on stock arms to 4.5" on LA's... night and day difference
Is it better to be fixed and gussetted?
I predict that single upper bushing gets destroyed VERY fast, to the point where the bolt is hitting the sleve. That's one downside of only having a busing at one side, since they welded / gusseted that solid.
Amazing how quick everyone is to defend clayton, and how he is so sure of himself. I'm glade to see that so many people show loyalty to the person that makes their parts. Even so I do not think it is appropriate for anyone to mention clayton any more in a IRO LA thread. This has been beaten to death, that all you guys think clayton is still better, and its fine with me.
So how about we end this fued, and the wasted text on things like "Claytons is better," and "That looks like it is going to brake."
By the way if I'm not mistaken, IRO has a awsome track record. (just my 2 cents)
Get off your high horse, the design aspects of the uppers were mentioned in opposititions to IRO's solution.
That's fair game for discussion. I don't care if it's compared to Claytons, RE, or anyone else who's made a ZJ long arm: With the exception of Teraflex (who doesn't even have uppers, talk about bad design) - IRO went too far out of the box on this one.
Just my .02.
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