Transmission top bolts

[Texas ZJ1]

Okay, So I've got all but two of the transmission bolts out that connect it to the motor. I've dropped the crossmember down enough that the front driveshaft is fully compressed and still can't see the last bolts. I can see where they "should be" but the transmission dipstick is in the way and there is a wiring harness covering them as well. So, what's the best way to get around that dipstick metal tube without damaging it?

Hunter

[Ken L]

On my 4.0 I angled the back of the trans way down and that sure made it easier. I had the radiator out too though.

[Ds4x4]

the FSM says to unbolt and remove the fill tube and retain the o-ring and remove both drive shafts.. I know what a PITA just to take the engine out.

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Disconnect and lower or remove necessary
exhaust components.
(3) Remove engine-to-transmission struts, if
equipped (Fig. 55).
(4) Disconnect fluid cooler lines at transmission.
(5) Remove starter motor.
(6) Disconnect and remove crankshaft position sensor.
Retain sensor attaching bolts.
CAUTION: The crankshaft position sensor will be
damaged if the transmission is removed (or
installed) while the sensor is still bolted to the
engine block. To avoid damage, be sure to remove
the sensor before removing the transmission.
(7) Remove torque converter access cover.
(8) If transmission is being removed for overhaul,
remove transmission oil pan, drain fluid and reinstall
pan.
(9) Remove fill tube bracket bolts and pull tube
out of transmission. Retain fill tube O-ring (Fig. 55).
On 4 x 4 models, it will also be necessary to remove
bolt attaching transfer case vent tube to converter
housing (Fig. 56).
(10) Mark torque converter and drive plate for
assembly alignment. Note that bolt holes in crank-shaft flange, drive plate and torque converter all
have one offset hole.
(11) Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until
converter bolts are accessible. Then remove bolts one
at a time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on
dampener bolt.
(12) Mark propeller shaft and axle yokes for
assembly alignment. Then disconnect and remove
propeller shaft. ON 4 x 4 models, remove both propeller
shafts.
(13) Disconnect wires from park/neutral position
switch, transmission solenoid, and vehicle speed sensor.
(14) Disconnect gearshift rod and torque shaft
assembly from transmission.
(15) Disconnect throttle valve cable from transmission
bracket and throttle valve lever.
(16) On 4 x 4 models, disconnect shift rod from
transfer case shift lever. Or remove shift lever from
transfer case and tie rod and lever to chassis component
with wire.
(17) Disconnect transmission fluid cooler lines at
transmission fittings. Remove lines from retaining
clips and tie lines to chassis with wire.
(18) Support rear of engine with safety stand or
jack.
(19) Raise transmission slightly with service jack
to relieve load on crossmember and supports.
(20) Remove bolts securing rear support and cushion
to transmission and crossmember. Raise transmission
slightly, slide exhaust hanger arm from
bracket (Fig. 57) and (Fig. 58) and remove rear support.
(21) Remove bolts attaching crossmember to frame
and remove crossmember.
(22) On 4 x 4 models, disconnect speed sensor
wires and vent hose from transfer case. Then remove
transfer case with transmission jack or aid of helper.
(23) Remove all converter housing bolts.
(24) Carefully work transmission and torque converter
assembly rearward off engine block dowels.
(25) Use wedge tool (Fig. 58), or C-clamp to hold
torque converter in place during transmission
removal.
(26) Lower transmission and remove assembly
from under the vehicle.
(27) To remove torque converter, remove C-clamp
from edge of bell housing and carefully slide torque
converter out of the transmission.

[Ds4x4]

why do they make it sound so easy?

ENGINE ASSEMBLY REMOVAL
(1) Scribe hood hinge outlines on hood and remove
the hood.
(2) Remove the battery.
(3) Drain cooling system.
(4) Remove the air cleaner and tube.
(5) Set fan shroud aside.
(6) Remove radiator and heater hoses. Remove the
radiator (refer to Group 7, Cooling System).
(7) Remove the vacuum lines.
(8) Remove the distributor cap and wiring.
(9) Disconnect the accelerator linkage.
(10) Perform the Fuel System Pressure Release
procedure (refer to Group 14, Fuel System).
(11) Remove throttle body.
(12) Remove the starter wires.
(13) Remove the oil pressure wire.
(14) Discharge the air conditioning system, if
equipped (refer to Group 24, Heating and Air Conditioning
for service procedures).
(15) Remove air conditioning hoses.
(16) Disconnect the power steering hoses, if
equipped.
(17) Remove starter motor (refer to Group 8B, Battery/
Starter Service).
(18) Remove the generator (refer to Group 8C,
Generator Service).
(19) Raise and support the vehicle on a hoist.
(20) Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold.
(21) Support automatic transmission with a transmission
stand. This will assure that the torque converter
will remain in proper position in the
transmission housing.
(22) Remove bell housing bolts and inspection
plate. Attach C-clamp on front bottom of transmission
torque converter housing to prevent torque converter
from coming out.
(23) Remove torque converter drive plate bolts
from torque converter drive plate. Mark converter
and drive plate to aid in assembly.
Fig. 17 Engine Rear Support Assembly
9 - 60 5.2L ENGINE ZJ
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(24) Disconnect the engine from the torque converter
drive plate.
CAUTION: DO NOT lift the engine by the intake
manifold.
(25) Install an engine lifting fixture.
(26) Remove the engine front mount thru-bolts.
(27) Lower the vehicle.
(28) Remove engine from engine compartment.
(29) Install on engine repair stand

[jfowlzj95]

You can pull the dip stick tube out of the tranny and move it out of the way to get the bolts.

Hunter, if you need any help give me a call. Had to do a transmission swap over the summer so I know how big of a PITA those top bolts can be.

[Varkyl]

Those bolts are easiest to remove with a long extension (like a 36" or so).

[DJJordache]

take out the front driveshaft to allow it drop more, just watchout for the fan to hit the radiator

You can pull the dip stick tube out of the tranny and move it out of the way to get the bolts.

yep pops right out

Those bolts are easiest to remove with a long extension (like a 36" or so).

yeah and since you have enough lift you should be able to sit upright right behind the transmission and use the long extensions to reach the top bolts.

[Texas ZJ1]

Okay, where were all you smart guys Saturday as I was laying in a pool of prestone cursing like a sailor...hey, that's funny.


Hunter

[DJJordache]

85 miles away laying in a pool of power steering fluid replacing my power steering gearbox and installing the KOR steering brace.

[jfowlzj95]

Driving the Heep around, you shoulda called.

85 miles away laying in a pool of power steering fluid replacing my power steering gearbox and installing the KOR steering brace.

Haha you too eh? My return line busted, so now there is power steering fluid dripping from everywhere.

[dr hook]

i used a ratchet-wrench from the top side to get the top 2 bolts out. its a tight squeeze, though.

[Texas ZJ1]

[quote=jfowlzj95;231436]Driving the Heep around, you shoulda called.


I'm sure to call you this weekend.

Hunter

[Texas ZJ1]

Pics are best at describing what I (we, the shade tree mech and me) accomplished this weekend.

[MoonWorks]

Maybe I missed it somewhere? Why are you pulling the motor again? You pop the old one or what?

[ajmorell]

I thinks you need a little more air in that tire

[Texas ZJ1]

The old 5.2 had serious oil burning issues and while deployed to Iraq, it sat for a year and was supposedly started at least once?

So, for a chance to upgrade to a 5.9, I took it.

Hunter

[zj-monster]

So, for a chance to upgrade to a 5.9, I took it.

Rightfully so!

[daverobb@rewedmonton]

I've done this two ways. First the Jeep's front end must be up in the air, about 12", on ramps or jack stands. If you are going to drop the trans, you need to remove both drive shafts. Then with a piece of wood and a floor jack under the trans pan, remove the cross member and lower the back of the trans as far as possible. Your limiting factor will be the fan to rad clearance. I always remove the fan first. Use a long X2 extension ratchet and u-joint on the socket to get at those bolts.
The second option works if you are removing the engine and you you have the ceiling height. Simply disconnect everything from the engine and trans and yank both out the front as a unit. Reverse the procedure to reinstall. This lets you re-torque everything without rolling around on a creeper. I hope that this helps.