22mm Tube Adapter for 1.5 x .25 DOM?

[goldensd]

I'm going through a couple scenarios for setting up the steering on the D44 I am building, and am looking for a tube adapter for the metric threaded tie rod end at the pitman arm.

I know Poison Spyder made them, but it looks like they have closed the doors and moved on to different ventures. Does anyone know of a source where I can find these to build a drag link. I know I can ream my pitman arm, but want to look at the option of keeping a metric tierod end on that side.

[Ted_Z]

Have you verified that the metric tierod end actually has a different taper then the SAE version?

[AgitatedPancake]

IIRC it is the same taper, but different starting/ending diameters unless I am thinking of the different 1 ton rod ends, of which there is also some difference.

I don't know if it is as much of an issue with ZJ's, but at around 6" of lift the WJ rod end @ the pitman arm was damn close to its limits, so boring out the pitman arm not only allows for a stronger/more unviersal rod end, you can get one that can handle higher angles.

[goldensd]

I'm still researching the different tapers and such. I don't know the WJ's, but I am guessing the ZJ must have more of a drop in the pitman arm, but since I am going to high steer, I can't imagine I would have issues either way.

I do know that on the U-Turn steering I have, they supposedly went back to using the stock metric TRE's, has they did allow for higher angles than the SAE ends they were using, but I don't know what any of the parts numbers are. If anything, my guess is that the metric stuff might match into the smaller 3/4" Tie Rod numbers, but maybe not the 7/8" stuff. I'll have to dig a little deeper.....

[ATL ZJ]

I'm assuming you're planning on using the so-called "1 ton" TREs for the rest of your setup...? Why not ream the pitman arm to use a matching 7/8" thread chevy high misalignment drag link end? In my designs, I try to eliminate oddball parts to allow for worst case scenario, and I have never been to a parts store that didn't stock the chevy tie rod/ draglink ends. Reamers are available cheap.

If you insist on keeping the metric drag link end, any machine shop should be able to make the tube adapter for you. It's basically just a coupler nut with the OD turned down. If you don't have a machinist locally, try Summit Machine, ballistic fab, partsmike, or bluetorch. I'm sure you could get at least one of them make a custom item for you.

[goldensd]

I'm assuming you're planning on using the so-called "1 ton" TREs for the rest of your setup...? Why not ream the pitman arm to use a matching 7/8" thread chevy high misalignment drag link end? In my designs, I try to eliminate oddball parts to allow for worst case scenario, and I have never been to a parts store that didn't stock the chevy tie rod/ draglink ends. Reamers are available cheap.

If you insist on keeping the metric drag link end, any machine shop should be able to make the tube adapter for you. It's basically just a coupler nut with the OD turned down. If you don't have a machinist locally, try Summit Machine, ballistic fab, partsmike, or bluetorch. I'm sure you could get at least one of them make a custom item for you.

Thanks, I haven't ruled out reaming the pitman arm, just trying to weigh all of my options. I've been looking at all of those shops, but didn't think to see what it wouold cost to make one for me, may have to check on that...

I discovered yesterday why you are saying "so-called 1 Ton", Haven't talked with any shops yet to verify, but do you happen to know which TRE they make the high steer for? Do they do it for the heavy duty TRE's (2026/2027 I think it was) or the lighter ones that they call 1 Ton (2233/2234).

[ATL ZJ]

I discovered yesterday why you are saying "so-called 1 Ton", Haven't talked with any shops yet to verify, but do you happen to know which TRE they make the high steer for? Do they do it for the heavy duty TRE's (2026/2027 I think it was) or the lighter ones that they call 1 Ton (2233/2234).

Who specifically are you talking about? Lots of people, including myself, have used the bottom 4 TRE/DLEs in the picture. There are dozens of companies making 7/8" thread RH and LH tube adapters. Are you going to buy the tube adapters and weld them into tubing or are you shopping for a "do it for me" prefab kit?







Here is a link to a chart with taper info that may be helpful also

http://www.partsmike.com/tie_rodid.html


















.

[goldensd]

Thanks, that is actually the article I had seen, but didn't link it and had forgotten where I was.

So it seems you would be best to build the system around the 2026/2027 TRE, but it is a different taper than the 2233/2234. So far I think all of the high steer arms I have found just say they are tapered for the 7/8" Chevy TRE's, and don't specify which TRE taper they have. Do you recal which taper your high steer arms were reamed for?

Yes, I was just planning to get all of the tube adapters from a shop, and get the somewhere locally to build my own.

[ATL ZJ]

The taper is the same in terms of degrees. The draglink end holes (2026, 2027) will just need to be tapered deeper than the holes for the TREs (2233, 2234). Are you planning on running a chevy flat top knuckle on the passenger side with the draglink connecting to it? If so, and if you are running true high steer you would obviously need two holes in that arm, with the same taper but to different depths. Unless of course you are using the stock knuckle holes to run your tie rod between, and using a single high steer arm for the draglink connection only.

OR are you going to run the draglink into the 2233 TRE hole, reamed out to make it fit? This is a common setup, but IMO it's stronger (and better) to eliminate the 2233 TRE. The reamed hole in the 2233 is a major weak point. If you can learn to be patient with toe adjustments, you can just run two 2234 TREs and simply pop the end out when you need to lengthen or shorten the tie rod.

OR just run two quality 3/4" heims as tie rod ends, drill the knuckles or steering arms straight through to 3/4", and don't worry about reaming anything for the tie rod.

[AgitatedPancake]

For my steering i actually ended up running 2 2026's and 2 2027's. This gave me the stronger rod ends with a high operating angle, the ability to adjust both my tie rod and drag link without removal and eliminated the rod end with the hole in it. The pixs of my setup are in my buipd thread if you want to get an idea

Edit. I forgot to mention i actually had to end up doing it this way because the high steer arms were reamed to tye larfer diameter, but were advertised as one ton. So i actualy bought the common setup first and found out the tapered diameter on all but the 2026 and 2027 were too small. But it worked out for the better, and with cheaper rod ends

[goldensd]

This is helpful. Yes, I due plan to do the 2 hole high steer arms on the passenger side. I agree with you and do not like the 2233 TRE. So it would seem best to me to have the arms reamed deeper and use all 2026/2027 stuff. Wonder if the shops would do that when making the arms.... I think I am going to get mine from Ballistic Fab, so I may have to ask if they can go ahead and ream them.


Agitated.. Just saw you chimed in with that thought, I check out your build. Thanks

[AgitatedPancake]

I'll just bring the pics here as this is turning into a good reference thread for 1 ton steering, originally I bought these goodies:
(This first pic shows the material difference between the 2027 and the others, it has MUCH more material holding the "cup" to the threaded stud than any of the other rod ends.)




IIRC from top to bottom it is:
ES2027L
ES2234R
ES2010L
ES2234R

but then found out only the 2027 and 2026 fit the holes in the high steer, so I returned the others and bought another 2027 and 2 2026's.



Here you can see at the pitman arm is a super long rod end, that should be the ES2026R, and I have the other ES2026R on the drivers side arm. Then I have the 2 ES2027L's on the pass side knuckle. The only issue I *almost* ran into, is the clearance of the 2 rod ends on the pass side knuckle. It fit but they are close.

[goldensd]

Awesome, thanks. So your high steer arms did come reamed for the larger taper. That is a good start. Whose arms are you runnning?

I think I might be starting to lean in this direction.

[AgitatedPancake]

I got my arms used from someone off pirate, I don't know the brand, but I cant complain considering I got knuckles and arms for 175.

[goldensd]

Thanks for the help guys.

I've decided to mimick Agitated. I just order the 2026/2027 TRE's from Complete Offroad, and ordered a high steer kit from Ballistic Fab (good price and they say their tapers match the 2026/2027 TRE's)

Also, FYI if your looking for a great one stop shop to get a bunch of stuff talk to Complete Offroad. I just put together a package with them for damn near everything I need to build this axle, and they worked with me to get the price down to be a bit better than the best of everything I could find online (including some ebay shops).

Guess it's off to buildin!!!