I have been researching info on the HP D30 ZJ swap and I have a good idea of what swaps and what does not. The information I have found on unit bearing swap over from the ZJ to the XJ HP D30 is sketchy and Iím not sure if I can swap over my ZJ unit bearings. The information I have found on this has me believing that its a hit and miss ordeal with regards to the unit bearings swapping into the HP 30.
I think I have located a donor axle but its missing the unit bearings and one axle. So the questions are:
- Are my ZJ D30 unit bearings a swap in or no, or maybe....
- While Iím doing this swap I know I need a re-gear and an axle. The ZJ is a DD in the winter on sometimes icy roads. I want a locker, but is this going to screw my on-road driving especially on icy/snowy roads? If yes what is a good alternative for up-front traction or is this even an issue?
- Any other up-grades I should consider while Iím in the process of doing this swap?
Unit bearings will swap over, and when doing the swap it wouldn't hurt to get shafts that have the 297 u-joints if it doesn't already have them.
The unit bearings should swap over unless it's a really early XJ axle(before 91) and you're using the stock knuckles as they were two-piece knuckles and used different depth unit bearings and brake components. Just set the unit bearing on the ground and make sure they're the same depth, but in most cases, the unit bearing will swap over just fine.
They switched to the larger u-joint in 96 on XJs I believe, so if the axle is 96+, the ujoints are good, otherwise, pick up a set of 96+ XJ shafts or TJ shafts.
Personally, I would not even think about building up an axle without installing new unit bearing and ball joints.
As for the front locker, go with a selectable such as ARB or ECTED. This way you get the best of both worlds; open on the road, snow, dirt (i.e. 99% of the time) and locked when you really need it. Alternatively, Detroit Tru-Trac's work fine for front end applications provided you keep the tire size reasonable (32-33).
My donor will be a non-vacuum axle from 91+ XJ. I did the WJ brake conversion on my ZJ LP D30 and I love the brakes. Everything I have read leads me to believe that I wonít have any issues swapping over my knuckles/brakes to the HP D30. Are you telling me that I need to use the knuckles/brakes from my donor? Or can I just swap over my current WJ brake swapped ZJ knuckles to the XJ HP D30?
How does the Aussie locker do up front for daily driving? Of course I would love to go electric or air locker but $$$$.
swap your whole WJ setup over and get new ball joints using the WJ ones for the lower (I think it was the lower ones)
It would be nice if I could keep the upper and lower WJ BJ's. I spent more $ on the new WJ BJ's when I did the WJ brakes then I did on the knuckles, calipers, and pads combined....
So far Im swapping in the HP 30, with my ZJ unit bearings, WJ knuckles/brakes. Thanks for the advice so far guys, this thing is going to be kick ass for an expo rig when itís done. My remaining Qís
- Can I use my LP D30 ZJ axles in the HP D30?
- Can some one verify the use of my WJ BJ's (using WJ knuckles) in the HP D30?
- Any more HP D30 locker recommendations (DD, expo/long haul, ZJ type rig)?
- Any other front axle up-grades I should consider while Im knee deep in this shiz?
Been looking for a HPD30 with a 4.10 FOREVER now and it looks like Ill just end up building one... I can get a 3.53 97 XJ D30 for pretty cheap. I will have to re-gear for 4.10's so it looks like I need to score a 3.73 + carrier.
Question's, can I use the spider and side gears from my ZJ's LP D30 assuming I can only score a gutted carrier? Does it matter if the carrier is from a LP or HP when I swap it into the XJ HP housing? My front D/S is U-joint currently, will I need a differnet D/S or yoke, can I just use my existing yoke on the HP axle? Thanks guys.
HP/ LP carriers are interchangeable as are the spider and side gears. Yoke will also swap without any issues.
+1 on that.
The DS will bolt up, but you will need to make sure it is not too short/long
Hey thanks for the help guys.
I have this thing all stripped down and Im about to set up my 4.10's. I was expecting to find a crush sleve in there (97 4.0 XJ HPD30) but when I popped out the pinion, there was no crush sleve in there?? Soooo, I have heard of people setting it up without this, I just want to check and see what the consinsious is on this. Should I use a crush sleve, or no, and if I dont how do I set pre-load? Whats the up/down side to using it or not? I was under the impression that it was needed to properly set pinion pre-load/turning torque? School me.
High pinion D30s use shims and not a crush sleeve.
I thought I would need TIG to do the tubes but after a second closer look the gap isn’t as bad as I thought. Is MIG ok to weld the tubes with, assuming I do an inch or so sections at a time to keep the heat down?
Any tricks for getting these inner seals to cooperate? I’m using two loooong 1/2 extensions and the correct seal installer, to get at the D/S seal. They just don’t want to go straight and are fighting me all the way. I noticed when I did the tear down that there was a bunch of RTV around the outer circumference of the inner axle seals. Is it a good idea to do a lot of RTV on the outside of the seals before installation? I normally do this anyways but, these things had a lot of RTV around them…..
Last edited by albersondh; 08-18-2009 at 02:51 PM.
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