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The axle and body side mounts are coming off? I know 3 links are common, but losing the only UCA can ruin your day with a 3 link, placing a bend in the center of the link weakens it- the gusset helps, but how much? And how is it mounted on the body end? Ask these guys about shearing UCA mounts off the body....
sorry i dont have a shiny fucking medal to show for spending money to learn how to weld...and learned by my own experience.
fabrication knowledge > certified welder
CERTIFIED welder - fabrication knowledge and safety = KFAB
did you not read responses about running a front 3 link on a street zj?
Last edited by Jeeperoni91; 04-23-2009 at 09:05 PM.
This kid can't win....
Have you seen the pictures?
Yes, several times.... ::shudders::
Being a certified welder does not mean you understand basic suspension design principles apparently. Sure, the old setup was very hack-ish and very unsafe- but this 3 link makes little improvement... buy a LA kit, install it, and save someone the funeral cost of their first born....
my point is it is not going to break. and yes i do know a thing or two about suspension design. for my application it works perfect also i drive 60 miles round trip every day to trade school. so no i havent spent money to become certified i am just taught by one of the best in the buisness (Jim Casey) and it does fine on the streed handles very well actually and i dont run sway bars.
You are truely getting dumber with every post
This is as close to constructive criticism as I'm going to get:
1. Do you really need the bend/ cut in the uca? It doesn't matter how well you can weld or how many gussets you throw at it, it is hella weak compared to a straight piece of steel. It doesn't look like you need it there to clear the floor even at full stuff (especially thanks to your lower shock mounts). Even if a straight link did hit the floor, you could persuade the floor out of the way with a bfh. Or consider going back to radius arms. As a general rule, 3 links in buggies use much larger hardware than what came from the factory, especially on the UCA. Also, I seriously doubt ANY comp buggy would weigh the same as a ZJ. Even if your UCA holds, the bolt is a huge weak link.
2. Are those lower mounts just tabs welded to the unibody? Even RK did more than that for their mounts. At least copy tereflex's unibody side mounts; if not, make or buy a crossmember like claytons. Welding tabs to a suitable FRAME is acceptable, but ZJs obviously don't have those.
3. Are you using any jam nuts? What's keeping the control arms from turning and falling apart?
If you are a certified welder, you at least have the potential to put together a safe suspension. Nobody here wants some hobbled together piece of shit to fall apart on the road, potentially killing yourself and others, and giving us as people who modify our vehicles a bad name. It is your rig and your life and you can do what you want, but when it comes to public safetey, you are responsible for what you put together. It's much better than before, but it still needs some refinement before it's good to go.
This isn't jeepforum dude, most of us actually know shit
Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
This thread brings the funny without trying
finally got some pics of the new goodies
my dana 44hd and dana 60 200 bones
l
scored this yesterday afternoon. found it in the back of one of my freinds truck
sandblasted it then epoxy primed
also got a set of shakerbuilt histeer arms for free
Shouldn't you be in school during the day
Are you putting in a chevy tc and transmission?
Im 99% sure you dont want paint on any of the mating surfaces, have fun removing it from the hub mating surface, steering arm mating surface (and threads) and maybe balljoint holes? The paint might make it hard to get balljoints in
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