Eric's '96 ZJ (Update: Limit straps, ABS delete, trail pics)

[Technohead]

That's in Canton, right?

Yes

[Technohead]

What was the tube diameter and wall thickness?

1-1/2" x 0.120"

[Technohead]

Here is my TODO list as the 2011 season rapidly approaches:

1. Install rear limit straps
2. Replace ABS system with adjustable proportioning valve and re-plumb all the brake lines.
3. Disassemble suspension, inspect ball joints, service control arm ends & swap jonny joints into the radius arms, adjust pinion angle, straighten bent CA bracket.
4. Drain, inspect, and refill differentials
5. Rebuild both driveshafts
6. Paint front/rear bumpers and get them looking somewhat straight again.
7. Finish rocker skid install and coat them with Herculiner
8. Replace bent front tie rod
9. Replace broken front exhaust pipe
10. Install synthetic winch line
11. Get CB working
12. Get stereo head unit working
13. Fix broken dome lights
14. Replace starter
15. Clean throttle body and replace IAC valve (as per ODB II check engine code)
16. Keep eye open for rear doors in good condition.
17. Come up with a better storage solution
18. Other items that I forget . . .

Not too bad, huh? OMFG.

Brake lines were on the list last year, did not get done, and I had TWO blowouts on the trail so the brakes are must-do.

The exhaust is also must-do. Both clamps holding the front pipe to the manifolds are rusted away and there is major obnoxious leakage. The original stainless pipe is still in perfect condition but there is no way to replace the clamps without cutting the pipe. Bald Hill Jeep wanted $495 for a factory stainless replacement so I'm going with a steel replacement from NAPA. The engine is running like crap and throwing a code for the intake air control valve (IAC). No suprise since the throttle body has not been touched for years and I apparently had a squirrel living inside the intake. Plugs, wires, and distributor cap are also due.

The last must-do items are the driveshafts & tie rod. The driveshafts were damaged last season and need to be rebuilt. I'm going to have the local driveshaft shop deal with the rebuild so they are just a bolt-in for me. The tie rod is bent enough to interfere with the track bar & stabilizer brackets. I already have the replacement but don't look forward to screwing around getting the toe adjusted.

Everything else basically falls into the nice-to-have category, especially if I want to keep rolling the dice without limit straps to protect the rear shocks (which both blew out on the trail last season)

I have most of the parts. Now its a matter of time. Too much time. I'd like to get through the must-do items by the end of April at the latest and then start knocking off the other items as time permits.





Stay tuned for write-ups on the ABS delete, Jonny joint install, and limit strap install (hopefully) as well as more photos from the trail.

[biggoofy]

Looking forward to the ABS delete!

[Jrgunn5150]

Love the work! Thanks for the pics too! I'm due for the rocker replacement.

[Technohead]

I'm way overdue for an update. The last month has been busy.

The front exhaust pipe and starter have been replaced. Dealing with the exhaust pipe was every bit the nightmare I expected it to be.



At this point there was important business to attend to:



I disassembled most of the front suspension and drained the diff's. Everything will get a fresh coat of paint, new u-joints in the axle shafts, inspect/grease all the joints, etc, etc:



I also need to replace my Currie tie rod. On the bottom is the first one which made it through almost two seasons. I installed the middle one just before wheeling Gretchens last Nov and bent it on the first obstacle of the day:



Here's what the radius arms did to my upper control arms bushings. These bushings were brand new less than 2 years ago and I have maybe 30 trail rides and 5k miles on them. They will be replaced with jonny joints:







Replaced front axle u-joints, cleaned-up the front rotors, refilled the diffs, installed the new tie rod, pressed in the drivers side jonny joint, and installed the synthetic winch line:







Both passenger doors were in rough shape so I bolted on near-perfect condition replacements from North Smithfield Auto. Paid $150 for the pair which is less than most places wanted for just one door:



Installed the rear limit straps using a single tab welded to the control arm and Poly Performance adjustable shackle mount welded to the frame. The straps were adjusted until the shocks compressed 1/4" or so. At this point the springs were also compressed a bit and the straps were carrying good tension. Should be golden.



After 2 years of procrastination I finally got around to adjusting the rear pinion angle. It was off by 5-6 degrees leading to pretty scary vibration when decelerating at highway speeds. With the springs removed I unbolted the upper control arms:



Lifted the axle up to where it would sit with full vehicle weight on the springs and then rotated pinion until it lined up with the driveshaft. I use the straight edge method of measuring. Close enough.



This is how much the uppers were adjusted. Originally no threads on the ends were visible:



The original brake lines, especially those underneath, have been crumbling away. Last season I patched up a couple blow outs and really needed to replace all the hard lines before the next blow out. Since the lines needed to be redone I figured this would be a good time to rip out the (non-functioning) ABS pump and plumb in an adjustable proportioning valve.

Here is the ABS pump visible after removing the washer tank and air intake:



Gone:



The original ABS pump bracket was customized to accept the proportioning valve:





Made lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve:



Finished the brake line install/abs delete:





A couple close-up shots of the old brake lines. Very bad:





"Fixed" the ABS light:







I needed to replace the passenger rear brake light and side marker to get a sticker. Even this simple job was complicated when two screws holding the housing would not budge. I had to break the lamp off and fight the screws every last thread. Fortunately, I had a spare housing on hand:





Herculined the sliders:



Two more years:

[Technohead]

Ocean State Jeepsters first camp-n-wheel of the season was held the weekend of June 24-26 in Southern NH and a great time was had by all.

Carnage consisted of two broken axle shafts, a steering box broken from the frame, and miscellaneous dents. One of the axles took the ball joints when it snapped:







Here's a sampling of photos from the event. Rain the night before made the already difficult trails that much more interesting:

[1ABrian]

fantastic pics but whats goin on in the last one??

[cowboy63b]

im guessing he was hung up, but then again i could be wrong.

[rstrucks]

Those radius arm bushings were trashed but you might be better off just replacing them with new rubber bushings every once in a while. The Currie joints are no doubt stronger but they don't allow for the deflection that a radius arm style suspension needs. You might be able to get away with it but I bet the suspension will be stiffer/less flexy and you may end up breaking something in the long run.

[IndyZJ]

Those radius arm bushings were trashed but you might be better off just replacing them with new rubber bushings every once in a while. The Currie joints are no doubt stronger but they don't allow for the deflection that a radius arm style suspension needs. You might be able to get away with it but I bet the suspension will be stiffer/less flexy and you may end up breaking something in the long run.

That was my thinking with the JJs and radius arms, but the last time I said something against it somebody threw a shit fit because Clayton says it's okay. The bushings see no "twist," only front-back deflection. I'm guessing the JJ uppers force the deflection into the lower bushings, which have more material to allow for the binding. I've always wondered if regular poly bushings would work better.