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10-30-2008, 02:01 PM
I was just in the thought process of what axles i would go to if i ever decided to go bigger. Its only a matter of time, so i figured id do research to make sure i get exactly what I'm looking for.
My jeep will probably always remain my DD, so i don' think its worth going 60/14b since i wont run a size tire that demands such an axle. I was looking at maybe running a set of 9" axles front and rear...
My question is, are front 9" axles a custom application only? Did any vehicle ever have a front 9" axle in it? I'm assuming the answer is no. If i were to build a 9" front, can i use a center section from a rear 9" for a front axle?
Ive seen custom 9" center secions sell alone for almost a grand... I figured building a junkyard rear 9" from a bronco and getting an additional 9" center section from a similar bronco to match and put into the custom 9" housing up front will help cut my costs by a good amount.
Derek
10-30-2008, 02:56 PM
The drop out 3rd member from a 9" will work in a front application. But you may need a different pinion support that will allow the reverse oil flow (I may be totally wrong on this though). The housing on the other hand would not work since the tubes aren't long enough.
Last edited by Varkyl; 10-30-2008 at 03:02 PM.
10-30-2008, 03:56 PM
Why is my first question in these threads always "what tire size?"? I'm trying to think through your logic here. I'll assume that if you don't need the strength of one tons, you must be wanting to run a 37 or smaller. Need more info.
The other big question here is why do you want a 9" front? Obviously you only know a limited amount about them if you are asking about factory 9" fronts. Yes the 9" has its advantages but I wonder why you are so drawn to running one in the front. Of course drop out thirds are big selling points, as well as only having to carry one spare R&P if you also have a 9" rear. Doubt you'd do that however. 9's can be built super strong and have a ton of aftermarket support, but you won't even tap into half of it if your tire size can't justify one tons. Or maybe you just read about it on the internet and think it's cool. Need more info.
The point is that it doesn't sound like your needs surpass the limits of a 44 front with less $ in it than a spider 9, 609, etc. For that matter, if you just like drop out thirds, grab a pair of axles from a Toyota FJ80 with factory e-lockers. Full float rears and high pinion fronts. They would be plenty strong for your needs.
Last edited by ATL ZJ; 10-30-2008 at 04:01 PM.
10-30-2008, 05:06 PM
The majority of my reasoning behind 9's aren't of much importance. I like the idea of the drop out 3rd member, and less people have them in their zj's. (front and rear of that matter too)
I can't really imagine DD'ing much bigger then a 37 or 38" tire.
The popularity of them seems to be growing more with the aftermarket housings and such. Just caught my attention.
Edit: are all the fj80 front axles passenger side drop? Did any year have a drivers side drop?
Last edited by Derek33; 10-30-2008 at 05:13 PM.
10-30-2008, 05:37 PM
the reason the center section normally sells for almost a grand is because there are so many different kinds, a nodular iron 3rd member will stand up to alot of abuse compared to stock. you also gotta remember that everything in included into the housing, so gear carrier pinion etc... a "budget" front 9 could be had very easily, find a d50(the 50 because its alot cheaper and has d60 outer knuckles) and a extra ford 9, take outer parts of d50 and slap em on the 9 axle, you will need a 35 spline carrier in the front 9 tho, as no 31spline front shafts fit, d60 35 spline shafts and ford 9 35 spline carriers will match up. (40 will work too but $$$) the only companies offering 35 spline carriers are Detroit, arb, and a few people make spools. obviously you don't want a spool in the front of a DD so that leaves arb or Detroit, Detroit is gonna run ya about 500 arb 700 or more depending where you get it from.Originally Posted by Derek33
so your "budget" ford 9 front will still run 1000-1500 depending on deals
now a built 609 will run about as much as a built 60,
so if u need one tons go for the 609 if you dont id agree with cam d44 will be fine
your right noone has done a front and rear ford 9 on a zj yet (that i know of).... but i have my parts pile at home and ill be done mine eventuallylol
Last edited by canadian_driver; 10-30-2008 at 05:40 PM.
10-30-2008, 07:01 PM
good call on the pass drop. I totally forget about those things as limitations. but with the cost savings you'd get from buying the two (pushing 3/4 ton) OEM axles with selectable lockers (vs. building them from scratch), you could make the leap to a tcase with more gearing options. Which could of course be pass drop. I say "gearing options" because it would be easiest and strongest to leave the stock 4.10s in the fj80 axles and get your gearing from the tcase. Unless of course pavement pounding is your #1 goal.
If that doesn't sound like fun, maybe a d44 is more your style.
Last edited by ATL ZJ; 10-30-2008 at 07:03 PM.
10-30-2008, 07:13 PM
Thanks for all the info so far, guys. The FJ80 axles sound real nice besides how hard to find they can be. (or so I've read). If i go that direction what kind of transfer cases am i looking at for a passenger drop application?
The only downside to a 44 is the only 44's that are around the same width of the 8.8 are LP. I could get a bronco HP44 housing and use waggy 44 shafts... but are there any objects getting in the way of that? Spline count, etc?
I've heard of people running up to a 37" tire on an 8.8 with chromos just fine, but there are always exceptions. Realistically i just need a front axle to match.
Do you recommend keeping the 8.8 and upgrading just the front and go for new axles all together? Do you guys think a front 44 is my best bet?
10-30-2008, 09:33 PM
I have a buddy that flipped a yota axle to driver side drop, badass and not really that hard. Flip the knuckles 180* (easy on a yota axle), and flip the 3rd, redrilling whatever stud holes you need to. Then just build a custom front cover for it as it will be backwards.
11-01-2008, 06:36 PM
what axles can be compared to the fj80's size wise? What size ring gear etc? i cant find any charts.
11-02-2008, 09:57 AM
just so you know a stock 8.8 is a tough axel. If you do some searching there should be a table floating a around about what pounds per square inch certain stock axels break at. The 8.8 wasn't to far behind the 60. if your running only up to a 37" tire upgraded shafts should hold on a 44.
11-02-2008, 02:26 PM
I didnt know that about an 8.8. Thanks for the info.
I guess my best bet is to keep the 8.8 and just look into a 44 for the front. The only decision i have is what vehicle to get my 44 from.
What donor would be best for my application?
The only other issue i have is finding a place to re drill my rotors for the 8.8 to match the BP for the front. Or maybe i can just use spacers to change my BP?
If you guys were in my shoes what would you do?
11-02-2008, 03:37 PM
the 8.8 needs spacers anyway to fit under a zj, so i would use the spacers to change the bolt pattern.
11-02-2008, 04:09 PM
That seems like a very reasonable option, Ill remember that.
Are there any good places that have alot of axle info... I cant seem to find the answers Im looking for through searching some forums and google.
I'd like to find a set of axles... preferably that come with 4.10's already since i feel those are reasonable gears to run for now. I dont trust myself installing my own gears, and i was charged 700 to install 4.56's in my hp30 and 8.8
The fj80's remain on my list... expecially since the yoke is similar syle of the 8.8 so i can buy a bracket to adapt to my current driveshafts... like what i did with the 8.8.
If i were to look for a hp44/9" out of a bronco of f-150, what years should i look for? i have to imagine some come with 4.10's. Which ones came with the desireable 31 spline shafts?
Thanks
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