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I have a feeling I might be reworking the motor mounts once I get the engine back in. As far as the the two maps go, one is a performance fuel and shift map and the other is for towing, it's pretty much an alternate implementation of the Tow/Haul mode these things come from the factory with but it also adjusts spark and fuel from my understanding. When in tow mode it stays in lower gears longer and retards the ignition a bit to avoid detonation. I had Wait 4 Me Performance do the tuning.
Got the wiring done. Here are the four main connectors going into my power distribution center/iPhone controller.
Here are the old Jeep connectors that will plug into the Jeep computer and firewall.
Here's the adapters for the coolant temp and oil pressure sensors.
On another note I fucking hate brake lines... Try as I might I have failed a ton of times at flaring hard lines.
I realized my current braided steel lines are not long enough for my coil over travel. So I've decided to setup my front brakes like the rear, I will be running a hardline down the driver's side frame rail to a braided stainless line that will jump to the lower control arm. A hard line will run along the top of the lower control arm to another braided line with a T and a bolt hole like the rear. The T will split hard lines to both sides where my old braided soft lines will run to the calipers.
do you have more info on modifying the harness with the ZJ connectors... also did you have to get those programmed different in the computer, or do they use the same signal as Jeep?
also, are the adapters pictured for chevy sensors or Jeep sensors?
There are alot of guys that run 2 driverside or passengerside manifolds, and route 1 side exhaust around the front of the engine... I dont know that it would clear with your panhard bar though....
All the harness stuff I figured out on my own, if you have specific questions I can probably answer them. As for the sensors, there are two coolant temp sensors, one on the driver's side head for the chevy computer and one on the passenger side head for the Jeep dash. As far as oil pressure, the chevy computer doesnt need that to run so I took it out and just put the jeep one in it's place.
The brass adapters I showed adapts from the metric thread the block has to 1/8" pipe thread that is fairly standard for sending units.
Thanks for the suggestion but I'm not too worried about the exhaust, with the Camaro headers it'll clear just fine. As far as the motor mounts, those will only take a couple of hours to rework.
I finished fabbing the axle-side coil over brackets.
Driver's Side:
Ran out of CO2 before I could finish the passenger side but here it is:
Got the brake lines done, did them like the rear so now they aren't a limiting factor in suspension droop.
Brake line routing:
Looks nice and clean, like how you will be linking it to the phone.
More shit crossed off the list:
*bolted up entire drive train
*made block off plates for the EGR ports on the Camaro headers
*made new motor mounts (had to get them away from the headers)
*made the track bar to drivers side motor mount bracing
If the weather holds up im going to put the motor in tomorrow temporarily so I can finish the motor mounts. Once they're done I'm having all the brackets powder coated.
I'm also adding a bar that will run under the oil pan between the motor mounts to use as a vertical point over the axle for a pulley for the suck down winch.
Plenty of distance from the headers now.
Ahh things that make me smile, I can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel.
Last edited by downtowncb; 02-03-2010 at 10:29 PM.
Are you going to attach the bar to the engine mounts themselves? You could lower it on the driver side to tie more into the track bar bracket giving it some more support. That is a fairly long TB bracket with a lot of leverage on the frame. The mount/TB bracing (which looks great BTW) would probably be enough but having it tie into the other frame rail would be fo sho.
I'm actually going to be bracing my TB bracket to the pass. side "frame" rail this weekend.
Nice work.
the build is coming along pretty good!!
Im going to build a TB brace as well help keep the frame rails from moving!!
Make sure you can still pull the pan with that bar in the way too. It would suck to have to pull the motor or cut stuff out of the way to be able to change a gasket or oil pump.
Didn't get nearly as much as I was hoping to today, two steps forward and one step back. Got the motor in and set pretty much where I want it but didn't have time to finish the motor mounts...
Here is the full setup for my fuel system though:
I'm using the in-tank pump as a lift pump to a Walbro. I removed the stock fuel pressure regulator from the top of the fuel pump unit and made an aluminum plate with an AN fitting to stick down to the fuel pump.
From here the lines run to the pump and the corvette fuel pressure regulator. The unconnected line is waiting for a 90* fitting to connect to the regulator.
It then runs down to a hardline that runs along the frame rail up to the engine bay.
Then a soft line jumps from the frame to the rails.
Oh and ran into a problem with the passenger side exhaust manifold. That stupid ass stub sticking out that does god only knows what hits the fucking frame... Not sure what I'm going to do about that, I thought my exhaust problems were solved with these Camaro manifolds, guess not.
Last edited by downtowncb; 02-04-2010 at 09:41 PM.
If they clear everywhere else, maybe some Camaro shorty headers would fit?
Ha, tuner as hell, but at least they wouldn't rust and are cheap
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XTUNE...item51903c32d7
Haha I wish I could go that route but I'm trying to make this smog legal in California so that means no aftermarket headers. If worse comes to worse and I can't make it legal, I'm going to "sell" it to my parents in Nevada and register it there and just drive it here.
Would there be enough room if you cut/ grind the lip off? Are those manifolds cast iron, and is it still "legal" to cut it out and patch the manifold? GTO manifolds would be the next closest thing I can think of.
Got the motor mounts done for the second time.
Driver Side:
Passenger Side:
And the start of the bar for the suck down winch, I just haven't added the tabs for the pulley yet.
I forgot to bookmark you thread after speaking with you. I cant get enough of ls motors. If I had the time and some spare cash everything I own would have one.
You can do engine swaps in California as long as the motor is from the year of the destination vehicle or newer, retains all factory emissions equipment on the new donor motor and is from the same class of vehicle, i.e. I couldn't use an LS2 or similar motor from a corvette because it is from a car not an SUV. This also means I must use factory or CARB certified intake and headers which is proving very difficult at the moment.
wow california really sucks!
Any ideas for that passenger side manifold? Any other hangups at this point?
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