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10-21-2010, 01:10 AM
Dont think its too bent. It doesnt look like it but when they were putting it back together the lager 35 spl shaft wouldnt go all the way in. So they will probably be able to get it back into shape.Originally Posted by IndyZJ
Sounds like you've got a housing for the front now, too
How badly is it bent? Unless it's major, they should be able to straighten it and throw a truss across the back and top and you wouldn't have to worry about it again. That labor may add up to close to or more than a new housing, though.
Ruffstuff housings are pimp and Dan is a supporting vendor here.
Also if they have to do a new housing there is also the extra cost of cutting off and re welding the brackets as well as the housing. What should I expect to get the house straightened?
10-21-2010, 02:12 AM
I have no idea how much they'd charge, but there used to be a guy local to me who'd straighten a 9" for $50-100. It must not be too far off if it wasn't immediately visible. If the shop builds 9"s, they should have the tools and experience to do it without a problem since they bend VERY easily when welded on.
For the sake of information, there are different ways to do it. One involves some chain, a bottle jack, a very sturdy surface, and maybe some heat if it's bad. Another simpler way to do it is to heat one spot (rose bud or small bead of weld), quench, and repeat as necessary until it's pulled back into shape. An allignment bar and pucks are used to verify straightness. There are likely other ways to do it, but these are the only one's I've seen. I'd throw a simple truss across the back from end to end and call it good.
Originally Posted by CrawlerReady
10-21-2010, 08:41 AM
Upgrade!! I think lsr greg used a similar method bending his 30 back into shape.
10-21-2010, 10:35 AM
well ill know later today. hope it doesnt break the bank...
10-21-2010, 03:17 PM
Was told 1-2 hrs @ $100 an hour (average for bay area). And came w/ a good reccomendation.
Also to truss probably 2-3 hours of labor not including metal @ $85 an hour.
Unless anyone has any good suggestions for a prefab truss.
10-21-2010, 03:21 PM
or build your own.
10-21-2010, 03:50 PM
No time and limited tools. Plus it's already there so not going to bring it hm to build a truss that I can't weld.
10-21-2010, 03:58 PM
touche
i say go for it then, i think tnt makes one. and they do.
http://tntcustoms.com/dana30nondisconnect.aspx
10-21-2010, 04:07 PM
isn't this about the 9"?
10-21-2010, 04:18 PM
Ha! I was like WTF. Yeah on the 9"
10-21-2010, 04:59 PM
http://www.moserengineering.com/stoc...y-housing.html
Looks like a good one for a reasonable price
Originally Posted by CrawlerReady
10-21-2010, 08:04 PM
LOL it's probably the exact same piece. Ideally it should go all the way to the ends, but that would be better than nothing.
Originally Posted by CrawlerReady
10-21-2010, 08:32 PM
Oh my bad I thought for the 30
10-21-2010, 08:59 PM
So got a question. Getting the housing straightened now. When they wels on the truss will that pull it out of wack again? Or as long as they do stitch welds it shouldnt move it?
Just seems a little crazy to pay to straighten that bootch twice. Was surfing on breaks today and saw people talking about it being straightened after truss.
I am thinking of that back brace above and some similar upper support on both sides of the pumpkin.
10-21-2010, 09:11 PM
If it is welded on properly and phased, I dont see why it would warp again. Plus if the truss was welded on before straightening you'd never get it straight afterward since the truss is meant to keep it from bending.
10-21-2010, 09:26 PM
What'd it take to destroy the 9?
10-21-2010, 09:49 PM
It is virtually impossible to correctly weld something of that size to a factory stamped steel housing (especially near the center) without it warping unless you preload it. It can be straightened in the same manner after the truss is welded on, or they can straighten first, then preload and add the brace. They may still have straighten it again after welding, though. This is done in one form or another on virtually every correctly-built trussed stamped/ formed steel housing. Heating and quenching can have a very dramatic effect on steel.
Stock housings especially are very easy to warp. A little bit of weld near the center can pull the relatively thin tubes pretty far at the ends.
There's a ton of good info on the net about this, but here is a decent page from pirate. Check posts 13 and 15
http://www1.pirate4x4.com/forum/show....php?p=6866141
This is an excellent example of a real behind-the-axle truss
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=441671
edit: JT, if you're applying heat/ weld to only one side of a tube (like when welding on a truss) it will pull. In my experience, a good 3" or so bead on a factory 9" tube where the tube met the center pulled it ~.020 at the housing end. Stock 9" housing are not very beefy.
Last edited by IndyZJ; 10-21-2010 at 09:58 PM.
Originally Posted by CrawlerReady
10-21-2010, 10:11 PM
Making a right turn.....
It turns out the housing was bent prior to me owning it and I didnt know enough at that time to know I shoulda had it trusses and straightened at that point. Not to mention I shoulda just have ponied up for the HD aftermarket off the bat. Lesson learned.
10-22-2010, 08:47 AM
I didnt realize the stock housings were so weak. I figured if the truss was welded on with 1" stitches at either endtop and bottom first then at the center that the truss would hold the housing true after that so the rest of the welding could be completed. That is how I have burned my trusses in. But I have never done a 9". I also leave the guts in and contiouously check ttr at the pinion to detect any warpage.
10-22-2010, 05:36 PM
So lil update.
Went by to drop off the Trac Bar drop bracket and the Pitman Arm drop along with the new DL TRE's since the new drive shaft will probably ship from IRO the same time as the new upper adjustable control arms and brackets to loose the fixed upper on the front control arm.
Saw the CHP 3rd and "grenaded" may be a bit of an extreme definition on their part... The splined collar inside the detroit snapped cleanly down one of the splines which was causing the popping, which was the collar spreading and letting the passenger side shaft slip and ultimately wear down and round off the splines.
That being said the detroit should be able to be repaired to be reused in the front 9"...(whenever that happens)
The R&P had a couple teeth missing and there was little metal shrapnel pieces everywhere. So it had to be replaced anyhow.
Also the hosing turned out to not only be bent back but both tubes were slightly bent up. While he was pulling it fwd one of the seams started to crack. They are getting the housing back and going to see if its salvageable or if I have to do a new housing.
I PRAY that its salvageable for now.... Just cant spend an extra Grand on housing parts, brackets and welding...
Last edited by WJJEEPIN; 10-22-2010 at 05:38 PM.
11-06-2010, 11:51 PM
So got a couple boxes at my door (accidently) wednesday.
Probably going to have them do a tube truss and setup the upper A arm with some tabs off the tube.
Last edited by WJJEEPIN; 11-07-2010 at 12:12 AM.
11-07-2010, 12:09 AM
And the second box to change the IRO front Iron Y to adjustable/removable front links + a new HD drive shaft with a 1350 joint on the axle side to match the HD Dayton Yoke.
I went and dropped off the parts this morning. Saw the rig and its looking sad sitting on some fabbed up stands so it wont take up a stall or lift. Also learned that the new 3rd is a yukon HD case. So its almost a complete Yukon setup, gears, setup, locker, 3rd, and shafts.
They couldnt pull the old spring pads so I got some from Ballistic.
It should be ready in the next week or two.
11-07-2010, 01:09 AM
Gotta love it when parts just accidently arrive at your doorstep.
11-07-2010, 09:19 AM
Cool man! I know it cost some extra coin but it will be added peace of mind when wheelin that you have a solid housing back there.
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