Project Hookup - Now with Solar

[fredr1980]

Looking good Will... are you going to be able to make it to GSR... It's right in our backyard

Fred R.

[lakailimited06]

will how do you like daily driving with the detroit in the rear? i have an aussie sitting in my room the last 2 weeks cause i've been busy and will be putting it in my 88 this weekend...

[WJJEEPIN]

[

Looking good Will... are you going to be able to make it to GSR... It's right in our backyard

Fred R.

Hey Fred,

As much as I would LOVE to go it looks like it has to be next year. All the PTO is scheduled for when the kids day care is closed during Xmas break. I will be setting aside vaca for next year specifically for GSR!!!!

will how do you like daily driving with the detroit in the rear? i have an aussie sitting in my room the last 2 weeks cause i've been busy and will be putting it in my 88 this weekend...

Hey Lakai,
Hardly notice it. Only during hard cornering, with my wide track and long wheel base I can take turns with light gas and no squeal. When I take a sharp turn or goose it a bit I get some chirping and barking from the tires. When I drive my pops tj on 35's w a Detroit in the back it chirps and pops in most turns and will push you around the lane when letting off the gas and re applying it.

When I build the front 9 I plan on swapping the chp & Detroit to the front and do a selectable in back.

[lakailimited06]

nice, i just put my aussie in and i can barely notice the thing...i have to purposely try to make it loud and noticable if i want to hear anything...

[WJJEEPIN]

nice, i just put my aussie in and i can barely notice the thing...i have to purposely try to make it loud and noticable if i want to hear anything...

Nice. Yeah, a quick goose in a corner and it sounds like you have a hot rod.

[WJJEEPIN]

Foiled by the iron y again. I say again because I put in a bump stop extension and due to the size of the bracket on the upper mount the bolts hit the cup holding the rubber. I recognize that they created the extension to work on a factory setup and I have mine pushed forward to fit the 35's.

But this time I am working on dropping the TB as described in the prior posts and again because of the size of the bracket and the axle pushed fwd I cant get the stupid bracket in. (a side note, the body shifted due to not having a tb but it only is off by a few inches)



I think its time to cut off the y and covert them to a radius style.

I am thinking of cutting off the iron y and either buying or fabbin the brackets and picking up some upper mount like JKS or RE.

Any suggestions would be helpful.

[IndyZJ]

Is that at ride height? It looks like the track bar would be in the UCA mount if you put the drop bracket on. Why not just raise the axle-side track bar mount? That would be a MUCH easier, simpler solution and would give you a slightly higher roll center than you've got now, giving you less body roll than if you were to lower the body-side mount 3".

[WJJEEPIN]

Is that at ride height? It looks like the track bar would be in the UCA mount if you put the drop bracket on. Why not just raise the axle-side track bar mount? That would be a MUCH easier, simpler solution and would give you a slightly higher roll center than you've got now, giving you less body roll than if you were to lower the body-side mount 3".

Yup ride height. They are the 6.5" springs but with the ARB its definitely lower. I just hate to polish this turd much more. I guess it would end up costing about the same to have my welder burn a bracket onto the axle as I have into the tb drop and PA drop.

Thoughts on that bushing pic?

[IndyZJ]

It does look like it's trying to come out. The bushing looks like it's starting to dry rot and has a split in it from that pic. I'd go ahead and replace it.

[WJJEEPIN]

So Indy,

Here is a pic of the factory setup, I will see if I have a closer up pic. Only Issue I see about raising axle side is there is crap above it so I would have to move it over, essentially shortening it to raise it the few inches. I am no suspension or steering expert but as I understand it to better the steering characteristics is to make them as similar as possible in length and as close to parallel as possible. So to shorten it would change the arch that they travel on.

Is that correct?

[IndyZJ]

Yes, ideally the track bar and drag link should be parallel and the same length. In reality, one is often longer than the other but parallel at ride height with minimal bumpsteer compared to having the TB and DL at substantially different angles.

Many people have had good results with making both parallel at ride height and running a shorer TB because of space constraints (almost everyone who's gone to over-the-knuckle steering and moved the TB up to compensate on a factory axles). I'm not familiar with WJs - is there any room to squeeze a TB mount between the coil and DL? If not, I would just go the route that so many others have with a shorter TB.

With the travel the suspension sees on the street, this makes for very minimal bumpsteer - usually not enough to notice.

[WJJEEPIN]

So while I am waiting to hear back from IRO on what were are going to do with the parts I got my ass in gear on swapping out the U-Haul hitch I have had for years now.

After I lifted the gas tank I wasnt going to realize my extra departure angle w/o picking up that low hitch. So I found a great deal on JU and picked up a factory one. Here is how low the u-haul hangs at my current height.



I didnt have or want the facia with the hitch hole so I trimmed enough off to fit the factory one in there.



Looks like some good height plus I plan on pushing up the hitch into the cross bar down the line for that extra 4 ".



Here is the height gain



Before and after

[Jeeptech01]

Wouldnt it just be easier to get another pass knuckle and put the dl back where it goes? You wont loose clearance since the tierod is below and the iro fits with the dl in the stock position. Just sayin..

[WJJEEPIN]

Wouldnt it just be easier to get another pass knuckle and put the dl back where it goes? You wont loose clearance since the tierod is below and the iro fits with the dl in the stock position. Just sayin..

Where were you before I ordered all the parts, Mr know it all...

I've contemplated that. Again, I'm trying not to put more funds into the 30. Whereas cutting up the ca's and making them radius style will fix my bumpstop issue, my steering geometry and allow for better use as I swap the axle out. Just my thought. But thanks for the input.

[IndyZJ]

Wouldnt it just be easier to get another pass knuckle and put the dl back where it goes? You wont loose clearance since the tierod is below and the iro fits with the dl in the stock position. Just sayin..

If it does fit like that, that would be easier. I don't think WJ drag links ends in the factory position like the extra doop that comes with long arms, though. Wasn't there a thread a week or two ago about someone killing them often?

[WJJEEPIN]

If it does fit like that, that would be easier. I don't think WJ drag links ends in the factory position like the extra doop that comes with long arms, though. Wasn't there a thread a week or two ago about someone killing them often?

Yeah, the top location allows for more droop and less dead tre.

Plus the extra adjustability of the radius arms will be nice. The reason I'm not touching the bushing on the top is cuz it's a huge pita to muck withthe upper bracket and then I would need to get it aligned again.

[Jeeptech01]

Didnt think about that.. Heim??

[WJJEEPIN]

Didnt think about that.. Heim??

You asking about the upper ca or the tr?

I am planning on replacing the upper ca bushings w the Rubi exp type end. Should help w binding associated w the radius arms.

[Jeeptech01]

UCA.

[WJJEEPIN]

Sup all. So I am lopping off the IRO y and bracket and going full adjustable radius arms on both sides. So here is the question...

How many hours should I expect for my welder to cut off the bracket and weld on tabs and get it all installed?

Thanks guys, let me know if you have any suggestions.

[it usually runs fine]

From complete start to finish I would take about five hours and thats factoring the usual stuff that goes wrong. Running out of wire, need more cut off disk yada yada yada. If it's less than that he's pretty good. If it's to much more he is screwing you. IMO

[WJJEEPIN]

^ Thanks for that. He is usually really good about not charging to refill his beer and take a dump.

I will let you know. I am having IRO cut some brackets and picking up some adjustable upper CA's.

I am just trying to decide if I should do the currie JJ for the axle side instead of the bushings to help with binding.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1277

[WJJEEPIN]

BOOM GOES THE DYNAMITE!!!!!!

And its DONE. Detroit is blown, pass axle shaft teeth shredded, R&P is missing a tooth.

Parts ordered. Strange case, balistic Fab yoke protector, 4.88 gears, Yukon Grizzly 35 spline locker all built and warrantied by Randys R&P and Yukon will pay up to 2K if things blow up. I also got new yukon 35 spline shafts and bearings.

Hack and tap with yoke from IRO and a new Custom Thick walled shaft to go the extra distance.

They finished the exhaust out the back & swapped out the beadlocks for some steelies (Bday prez for better on road manners) Down the road I plan to get some AT's for DD and some 37 Meats for wheeling on the now spare bead locks.

[WJJEEPIN]

And just heard back tonight as they were putting the parts back together into the housing and found out that it is bent on the Pass side tube back towards the bumper. Probably the root cause of the whole thing. Figured it was the used CHP 9" but it turns out it was the used housing.

Sadly Just got more expensive...

They are going to look into bending it back if not I'm going to look into a new fabbed housing.

[IndyZJ]

Sounds like you've got a housing for the front now, too

How badly is it bent? Unless it's major, they should be able to straighten it and throw a truss across the back and top and you wouldn't have to worry about it again. That labor may add up to close to or more than a new housing, though.

Ruffstuff housings are pimp and Dan is a supporting vendor here.