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Its still a dual purpose rig. I carry tons of stuff in there from chopped wood to glass bowls filled with wife's potato salad. Most times I will leave it out but I would like the option to still have a regular floor for hauling family junk...
Consider it my bling volume...
Nicely done sir!
Clean work man, I like it! One of my favorite WJ mods period. I still hit my tank from time to time, and I went up between 7-8" when I did it, I don't even want to think about how it would look if I hadn't raised it.
Last edited by WJJEEPIN; 07-20-2010 at 10:57 AM.
You can mod the hitch for more clearance also. I did it in my build.
Last edited by WJJEEPIN; 07-24-2010 at 11:36 AM.
we need updates!
Ask and yee shall receive...
I have been working a lot both at home and at work, jeep sadly is coming 3rd now. My upper rubber joints on the IRO arm failed, it was the passenger side at first and then the driver died not short after. I noticed it started to look a little torn then later that week I was able to push the jeep from side to side in the back about 2" in each direction.
IRO warrantied them and got them out for free and in a hurry, got them pressed in and back on its wheels. Josh your the man. HANDS DOWN THE BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE IN THE BUSINESS!!!!!!
Took a pic when I noticed it.
Last edited by WJJEEPIN; 08-14-2010 at 08:37 PM.
UPDATE 2
Bought the KOR WJ skid a month ago and went to install it and had a couple issues. If you have the factory Overland skid with the nutserts it will take a little finess to get it to line up but that wasnt the main issue. Just bummed they dragged me along when they could have told me its going to be a month + and I would have gone elsewhere sooner. (Ultimately its not their fault they only planned for factory configuration)
If you couldn't tell by now i have the IRO setup....
Anyhow the LCA bracket gets sandwhiched between the factory crossmember and frame which drops everything by 1/4".
For the factory skid it was fine as it had pleanty of room between it and the tcase due to the curves and holes in the stamped sheet metal. Well this 1/4" flat steel gets close to the bottom of the tcase but with the 1/4 drop it is all up in the case.
Last edited by WJJEEPIN; 02-23-2014 at 08:01 PM.
So I promptly contacted KOR to get a 1/4" spacer with the matching staggered hole pattern to fill the gap and drop the skid to clear the tcase. Anyhow a week turned to two weeks. Two weeks turned to 3. I emailed but they are busy with projects and gave me the answer it was out at lazer to get cut. I got tired of kicking the steel plate everytime I went onto my patio and just wanted to get it installed so I found a local machine shop who sent me to a dude who they give work to. Cool guy, had some aluminum 1/4" that was perfect, dropped off the skid so he could drill to match, and was done in 2 days.
So there is a L bracket that bolts to the frame with some self tapping bolts this has 5 elongated holes to match up the the skid which allows you to pull the skid without having to pull the frame bracket off every time. I just had to buy five 2" bolts to be long enough to go through the spacer.
And now it has 1/4" between skid and tcase. And that skid aint moving!
I had planned to go wheeling up in southshore this weekend but w/o a skid I didnt want to test my luck and I also am starting a new job on monday so didnt want to call in being stuck in Tahoe on day one.
Last edited by WJJEEPIN; 02-23-2014 at 08:05 PM.
yeah that could be bad, anywho i like the way this jeep is goin, how do you like the IROR kit, im torn between it and the clayton kit.
I am all for my IRO, the have Killer products and some of the best service I have had in ANY business I have dealt with in my life.
If you can weld go for the Claytons if your like me and only have a carport and no friends that weld it was more cost effective to do the IRO.
I just didnt have the funds to buy the kit then pay for the money to have someone weld it on, but I am happy and have no regrets.
I know hindsight is 2020 and outside lookin in and all that crap but why not just put a 1/4" spacer under the trans mount to move the case back up a bit?
How disappointed would your teacher be if you missed a day of daycare.. honestly.
Last edited by Hockinaloogie; 08-16-2010 at 11:54 PM.
and shitting your pants, ahhh fun times.
One of my favorite Wj's
Last edited by Hockinaloogie; 08-16-2010 at 11:53 PM.
So I am tired of the stupid bump steer that I got from flipping the DL to the top of the knuckle. As this is my DD I need it to be solid and to have the wife be able to drive it without bitching would be nice too.
Here is what I got. Its a IRO TB 3" drop. New DL ends and a 1" PA drop.
I figure that by raising the DL at the knuckle side by 1-2" it has killed the geomitry. By dropping the TB 3" on the other side it brings it closer to parallel rather than an X (over exaggerating of course) But it probably is 1" too much so I got the PA drop by 1".
I got the new TRE as the ones I have are sloppy and offer no resistance when grabbing the TR.
I plan on doing it in pieces (TB then PA then TRE) and get measurements for before and after each step, photos etc.. If you guys have any questions or suggestions please shoot. And comes across and bolts to the flap behind the spring below the frame. (Photo curtesy of Josh at IRO) I was worried that the bolts may come into contact with the JKS disco but it looks like its far enough over.
Last edited by WJJEEPIN; 02-23-2014 at 08:21 PM.
Looks like it will be a nice setup. Good idea doing it in pieces. Hell you may not even need all of it.
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