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As requested:
Here is the Passenger Side:
I have read another complaint that you need a t-case spacer. Not ture only the 1/4" plate that goes under the crossmember.
Last edited by WJJEEPIN; 09-14-2020 at 05:39 PM.
Last edited by WJJEEPIN; 09-14-2020 at 05:45 PM.
I dont see anything wrong with that, looks good. But Id still weld it down !
Flex pictures?
love ur jeep man keep it up
Last edited by WJJEEPIN; 02-23-2014 at 08:29 PM.
I hate you. The more I see your rig the more I want to build mine!
Lookin' good bud. Hopefully we can have the rigs together in the same part of the state at some point. It'll probably require one of us moving... but then we'd be wrenching partners again!
Last edited by WJJEEPIN; 11-18-2008 at 09:53 PM.
Word up all. So I didnt get to go to the mountains for a weekend of wheeling over Turkey day weekend but I did get to go play for the day at Hollister Hills. Nothing extreme, just some fun watching my dads jeep kill it. here are some photos.
Flex test. Still not flexed out completely. And need a little longer shox to maximize it.
Little playing int he rocks
Pops let me play with his jeep on the rock ledge.
Little flex from the TJ. I keep telling him he needs to LA that thing.
And his TJ killing the mud pit.
Stripped and painted. Hit it with a flat black, i will finalize it with a gloss to finish it but this is to make sure its clean and rust free.
Last edited by WJJEEPIN; 09-15-2020 at 01:00 PM.
Thanks, not going as fast as I would have liked, but not bad with a toddler, mortgage and a pregnant wife.
Now that I have a new POS dd I can really start to tear into the jeep. I am going to see if I can get the wj brakes onto the 9".
If anyone has redone their wj rear brakes and can toss me their used rotor let me know.
You should be able to use 8.8 brake rotors, brackets, and the like so unless you want to fab more up, I would go that route.
Are you ditching the ABS?
I have the old style large bearing which means its a different bolt pattern to the axle housing. I can have the holes welded up and redrilled to the 8.8/torrino style but then I have to buy the break stuff after all that.
Whereas I recently upgraded the rear brakes on my dub and have all the pieces which will allow me to not have to bleed the brakes, not have to replace the ebrake cable and not have to worry about break balance from front to rear. If Im going to fab something Im thinking fab for what I have so I can save some dough. But again I just got my vw running so I havent even pulled it the wj rears to see what its going to need.
Ill start posting pics as I start working towards it.
Oh and ditching the the ABS but rewiring the rear tone rings to the front to keep the speedo.
See if the TJ rear 44 caliper bracket will work with the WJ rear cliper and then see if it can be worked onto the 9. I used them on my 44 to keep the rear disks and modified it for the ABS sensors. My brother found this worked when he upgraded his XJ 44 to disks from my old 35.
I will take a look into that.
If I read that correctly the problem is the ABS on the WJ is via a tone ring that is pressed onto the wj shaft that does both speed and abs and work on the 9" shaft. All I have to do to keep the speedo is run a couple wires to trick the system to check the front only and not the rear.
Nice WJ, hows the street ride with those LA?
Thx. It rides Great. I have RE TT shox which are really stiff and were killing me pre LA. Once I added the LA's it became really smooth in comarison. Once I have the 35's on it and can figure out my uptravel I will be getting some long travel Bils shox which will make it butter.
I will mention I do have bumpsteer, though its from flipping the Drag link and I had it prior to the LA's. Its less now but probably wont go away till I build the custom 9" front after I toast the 30.
Holy Money Pit Bat Man!
Had some spare time at work so I did an excel sheet listing prices and Items on everything I have on/in the jeep now, from roof rack, to arb bumper, to upgraded brake rotors and then a second grid on all the parts that I have to go into the upgrade to the 9" axle swap and related parts to run 35's. Shipping/my labor not included. Too Scary.
Last edited by WJJEEPIN; 07-18-2009 at 12:01 AM.
...are you still planning on a 9" for the front axle? I'm going to end up putting a 9" in the rear, but I'm seriously contemplating IROs D44 front axle. For the price, it's a pretty good deal. For me, I wouldn't be worried about wheeling with 35's on that axle. 4.10's suck, but it could easily be swapped out down the road.
Hey DM.,
Yup, still putting in the 9". I am done collecting parts for both the front and rear axles. I had IRO make me a set of HD 1/4 brackets and spring pads. So all I need to do is get it welded in and get the rims for my 35's. But they had cutbacks at my job and I was one of the casualties so the swap is paused. I've been quoted anywhere from $500 to $1000 to have it welded, trussed and out the door.
I'm going back and forth on the front 9" vs the jk44 front. If I were to do the 9" I would probably get the JK outters to maintain the speed sensor. So when I get there I will go with what makes sense for the wallet.
From what I have heard from a few different sources the control arms will just bolt up, its the track bar that is the issue in that swap. So on the cheap you could get the axle for cheap used or from online and probably just source the brackets from IRO to get it buttoned up.
Let me know when you start to work on the 9". I might be able to throw some time saving advice your way.
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