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They do what they are meant to do. Very sturdy, for the money they are golden and with the life time guarantee how can you go wrong...
They are not know for their customer service or quick turn around and you will hear a lot of negative press about their lifts but to no complaints about their rockers. There are a bunch of people on different forums tearing them up. Bigdavezj has a set on his rig.
If you look on their site that is my wj with them installed.
Regardless of the crack they say with two 3/16" spacers to clear the 16" rims. Add it as you please...
Last edited by WJJEEPIN; 02-13-2008 at 07:33 PM.
"The JK axles are 65 1/4" wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface. This is 1 3/4" wider than your WJ Grand Cherokee stock axles."
From IROR website....
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...ory_Code=WJJKA
So based on your measurement indi242003, of 64 its its an 1 1/4" bigger bigger. Plus you need 3/16" spacers to clear the 16"rim of the wj which adds 3/8 to the overall width totaling 1 5/8" larger.
I'm not sold on this yet. 1st and foremost track width and WMS to WMS is 2 different things. Let's compare apples to apples here. I really don't care about putting a 44 under my rig, but for future reference, define what they are calling "axle width". There are 2 ways to measure it, as I mentioned. There are too many measurements floating around here. Let's get the WMS to WMS so we all agree. We all know what a WJ rear is now. Someone find out for sure (WMS to WMS) what the JK Rubi axle is. Hell, for all we know they could be measuring the wheel studs to wheel studs or rotor to rotor. Hey, don't get it twisted WJJEEPIN I'm not aiming this at you, I just want a solid answer to this question, as I'm sure you do. Regardless of the outcome we know they will work (It's on the damn website). This thing has went on too long. Someone on here knows somebody with a JK Rubi. Grab a tape measure and let's know with out a doubt. Quotes from websites are not going to cut it. We've already had like 3 different ones on this same axle.
No worries, I know your not firing at me.
Though they do call it @ 65 1/4 wms to wms.
I am also working with a dude from JF who supposed to measure his JK tonight. Once I hear I will report back, and we finally will have a real world measurement and can KILL this debate once and for all......
I got a confirmed 65 1/4" long on the JK axle. So with stock rims and required spacers it comes out to an official 1 5/8" wider than the WJ Axles.
Which with some good backspaced wheels will net you AROUND 5" wider stance. Not bad.
Granted there are always different choices that might benefit one wheeler more than the other, but that is not my point.
1) Wider stance
2) larger & stronger gears
3) good after market support.
& for those who cannot weld or dont have the time its a good option.
We can finally put this discussion to rest....
Last edited by WJJEEPIN; 05-06-2008 at 06:13 PM.
Adjustable rear Lower Control arms from JKS PN6125. Going on the rig this weekend. This will allow for when I get my front Clayton LA kit to go to 6" until I get the funds to slap in the rear. This is it vs my size 12
And the supplied Spacers
Last edited by WJJEEPIN; 03-17-2008 at 03:06 PM.
So I still havent put those jks rears in but that should be in the next couple weeks. I found a local dude selling an ARB... I couldnt resist so he came over Saturday and during the swap my stupid drill died. So he helped me lug the bumper onto my balcony and left me to finish the install on my own. I got the wiring and brackets done on Saturday and started tapping friends to help me lug it back down to get it slapped on. Last night I bribed my buddy with Pizza and beer and we got it done.
Brackets & No Bumper
Bumper on the Deck teasing me.
And on the rig. Still need to tweek it and get the alignment a little better but that can wait.
Yeah for me....
Last edited by WJJEEPIN; 09-14-2020 at 03:55 PM.
Handicapped? You all always get the best parking, you suck.
My knee has popped out of the socket since I was 12. Need surgery to get it fixed. Im not a gimp or anything but when I was in college the lots were hella far away and when i have to do a ton of walking my knees get soar. So I talked to my doctor and she hooked it up.
Doesnt stop me from doing stuff, just have to be a little more careful when relaxing it, as that is when it pops out. I dont take the handi spots, just a rule for myself. But I do get to park in CA for free all day, that includes 30 min spots and meters.
if you hear of another good deal on a used ARB in the area, let me know!
looks good
Last edited by DanKNesS; 05-02-2008 at 03:35 AM.
Thanks. After putting on the ARB it pulled the springs down pretty hard in the front. So I am stepping up to some 5" from IRO. Just got them in the mail, hope to get them on this weekend, cuz I'm heading to Hollister next weekend.
Taking my pops out for his first wheeling trip...
I will update some more pictures after their installed.
fo sho. i just added spacers all around. i used a hilift on the opposite side with the spring compressor on... lift hi lift as hi as you feel comfortable tighten spring compressor then lower it and hi lift close to the tire you are doin and wa la out comes the compressed spring
Thanks for the idea. I've swapped springs a couple times now. With the 4.5 RK springs I didnt even need the compressor. Just took off the jks QD and disco'd the shox. Axle dropped just about to the floor and the springs popped in.
I'll throw up before and after once their on...
You should have let me know before you bought them. I have a set of 5.5" IRO coils on the shop bench. I could have hooked you up.
I'm still on short arms and didnt want to go to large while on them. This way I can get some more height for some 33's and doesnt mess up the angles too much. Then when I go LA I can rock that height also.
Talked to Josh and he warned against going much higher on short arms, he really didnt want to suggest the 5" but I have the ARB and it will take some out of the front height.
So I got the IRO 5" springs in. Getting faster at slapping them in. On the floor with just a jack, 1 stand and basic hand tools in under an hour.
Here are the pics for your viewing pleasure.
Rear Before w/ RK 4.5" springs & 2"spacer. (too much junk in the trunk)
After w/ IRO 5"
Front Before w/ RK 4.5" springs
After / IRO 5"
Here are the rear springs & JKS rear lowers. The IRO springs have about twice as many coils on the rears than the RK did....
Oh and 100TH post!!!!
Last edited by WJJEEPIN; 02-23-2014 at 08:59 PM.
My new W2F gap is 22.5 all around. I am expecting a little sag in the front because of the ARB but these are brand new and they are holding nicely.
Now i need some 33's bad. But Im going to need some regearing as the 3.55 are going to BLOW with the 33's. I'm thinking 4.10 to keep the MPG relatively close to how I'm running it now. Its still my DD
Unless there are any suggestions out there for a different ratio. I am running the 4.0 with a ton of crap in the rig. The 31 MTRs are ok with the gearing, kinda lags on the uphill in the mountains.
Nope, not being passed by mopeds or anything. Its only in the mountains 4.5K + feet where it looses the pep. Around town and in the hills around sea level I get no lag at all.
My only problem with 4.56 is that it puts me at 2000 RPM at 60 MPH. Great if the vehicle becomes a secondary vehicle but as it looks now its a DD for a year to two years. And the 4.1 puts me at 67MPH at 2000RPM.
To me that spells OUCH at the pump. As it is I fill up my 20 GAL about once a week and fuel is at $4 for 87.
I like my stock gears with 265s at 70mph im at 2000 rpm getting about 16-17mpg on 89 and 13-14 on 87
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