SOLITUDE

**SOLITUDE** · 09-12-2007, 06:59 PM

I'm not going to run an e-brake....

**BigDaveZJ** · 09-12-2007, 07:02 PM

Originally Posted by SOLITUDE

I'm a flaming idiot who doesn't know how to safely build a rig...

fixed

You need SOMETHING to hold your Jeep. Relying on just the parking tab on the trail is not smart.

**ILikeMud** · 09-12-2007, 11:57 PM

Dave's right.
Get a t-case brake, a line lock or something.

**SOLITUDE** · 09-13-2007, 12:12 AM

I'll look into a TC brake. Thanks.

**adam99wj** · 09-13-2007, 07:29 AM

just buy elderado calipers and run some cables to it and be done with it

**SOLITUDE** · 09-13-2007, 12:54 PM

Just bought a set of Warn Premium Locking Hubs:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWN:IT&ih=017

And some new Ball-Joints:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWN:IT&ih=004

**midwestxj** · 09-13-2007, 02:23 PM

44's only have 19 spline outers?

**My66coupe** · 09-13-2007, 06:29 PM

Originally Posted by midwestxj

44's only have 19 spline outers?

yes

**SOLITUDE** · 09-16-2007, 01:20 AM

Started working on the 44. Pulled the calipers off, pulled the lockouts off and got all the way down inside the spindle and found out I need an Axle Nut Socket.... Can't find one anywhere in town... I'll have to order one. booo....

After finding out I needed that socket I decided to go ahead and grind all the surface rust off and paint it. And here it sits:

I can't get the cotter pin out on the driver's side knuckle... The nut just spins on the TRE..... ugh..... I also still need to rent a ball joint puller.

Suggestions on getting the Cotter pin and nut off?

Oh... and my Warn Premium Hubs came in.

**ILikeMud** · 09-16-2007, 11:43 AM

When a cotter pit gives me shit I just cut it so I can put a socket over it and bust it off with a breaker bar.

**SOLITUDE** · 09-16-2007, 02:33 PM

I can't get the cotter pin out of the drivers side TRE bolt. So I just cut both ends off and left the center piece inside the bolt. (I'm going to punch it out when I get the nut off.) But there's so much rust on the bolt that when I torque down on the nut, the bolt and nut just spin inside the knuckle and TRE. What say you?

**corrupt143** · 09-16-2007, 02:36 PM

EDIT: You beat me to it.

X2. Cotter pins are a soft metal, You can just twist them of with NO damage to the TRE.

The part I dont understand is "The nut just spins on the TRE." Do you mean the TRE shaft is spinning with the nut, or is the shaft stripped? If the shaft is spinning , remove the dust cover and throw a big pair of vise grips on the shaft and then give it a shot. An impact would help. If the TRE is stripped, cut the nut and shaft near the knuckle. Just be careful not to damage the knuckle.

**corrupt143** · 09-16-2007, 02:39 PM

Originally Posted by SOLITUDE

I can't get the cotter pin out of the drivers side TRE bolt. So I just cut both ends off and left the center piece inside the bolt. (I'm going to punch it out when I get the nut off.) But there's so much rust on the bolt that when I torque down on the nut, the bolt and nut just spin inside the knuckle and TRE. What say you?

Cut the nut.

**SOLITUDE** · 09-16-2007, 03:17 PM

well it looks like I'm cutting the boot off and putting a vise on it.

**mudforblood** · 09-16-2007, 03:33 PM

You could try using a pickle fork to put some pressure on the tre to hold it from spinning. It puts enough friction on the ball to hold it most of the time. Also, are you using an impact? An electric impact is a good tool to have if you dont have an air compressor.

**SOLITUDE** · 09-16-2007, 04:07 PM

I was using a socket and wrench.... I'll have to pick up an electric impact.

**SOLITUDE** · 09-20-2007, 06:06 PM

The wind finally was dead earlier and got the rest of the truss welded up and painted. All this came in the mail today:
44 - Full spool & Master Rebuild kit
9" - Mini Spool, master Rebuild kit, and 4.86's.

**RiPPiNiTuP7** · 09-20-2007, 07:55 PM

spools on a DD?

**SOLITUDE** · 09-20-2007, 09:30 PM

The front has lockouts and the mini spool is VERY temporary in the 9". I'm saving for a detroit.

**ILikeMud** · 09-20-2007, 10:38 PM

So your going to get out of your Jeep to turn a hub every time you want it locked?

Do it once and get a selectable. Plus, you might want to put some alloys in the D44.

**My66coupe** · 09-21-2007, 04:13 AM

Originally Posted by Yota Tony

So your going to get out of your Jeep to turn a hub every time you want it locked?

lazy

**BlaineWasHere** · 09-21-2007, 09:32 AM

Spools on a dd? I hope you don't like your tires?

**My66coupe** · 09-21-2007, 09:32 PM

A spool on the rear is really not that big of a deal. I ran my 8.8 minispooled as my dd, and it was fine. The only time you noticed the bind was parking or turning at crawling speeds. My baja claws weared evenly with the fronts...

A spool in the front is perfectly doable with the lockouts. Obviously not on a non vac/disco 30. I have buddies running welded fronts with their, vac/disco 30s with 37s and spooled rears and DD them 45-60 miles a day... My buddy has about 10k on his mtrs and they still look newish.

**ELLLLLIOTTTTT** · 09-24-2007, 09:28 AM

Originally Posted by My66coupe

A spool on the rear is really not that big of a deal. I ran my 8.8 minispooled as my dd, and it was fine. The only time you noticed the bind was parking or turning at crawling speeds.

I somewhat agree. I know people that run spools with no adverse effects to speak of. But it really depends on your suspension. When I was on short arms and no sway bars I would just about tip over turning onto the next street. Its downright scary.

Ask Dave.

**adam99wj** · 09-24-2007, 05:01 PM

i run a spool in the front and i like it , but im a cheap bastard
spool= 100 bux
ARB=1000 bux, no thanks

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