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Same as now - 4"
I got my rims from Summit. Plain-Jane 15x8" Cragar Soft-8s. I'm too cheap to buy center caps...besides, they'll just get crushed
I didn't need to put washers in the steering stops at all for the 32s, and not for the 33s either.
thank you thank you thank you, ive been searching so long tring to find that answer and no one has answered me. ordering them bad boys tonight!
Glad I could help!
Eat shit, welcome to MallCrawlin
Hey Jim, how are the Kumho's going for ya? I'm thinking of getting some in the 33" flavor. Do you put many DD miles on them/how are they wearing?
I ask this because I'll probably be getting some new shoes soon. I bought my BFG A/T's less than two years ago, put only 9k on them, and they're in need of replacement in just few months. WTF!
Still the best tires I've had yet - I got 30k+ miles out of the 32s, and still was able to get a couple hundred bucks out of them, the guy I sold them to got another 10k miles at least (he drove from Cheyenne WY to Denver fairly often), then he got $100 selling them I think.
My 33s have substantially less miles than my 32s did since my commute went from 14 miles a day to nothing (bus pass through work). I probably have 5-7k miles on the 33s.
I did cut a sidewall in Moab last October, but it was a relatively minor cut, and Discount honored their certificate on the tire. I think any tire would have cut in the spot that I hit. One of those fluke sharp spots in the rock, and hit it hard and fast.
I would definitely count on the Kumhos for more than 9k miles. My toe was shit when I had the 32s, and they cupped pretty good. Still had plenty of meat on them when I sold them though.
When I bought these 33s, I was waffling between the KL71s and the BFG KM2s. The KM2 is a great tire, and I've seen it perform incredibly. My decision came down to past experience, and the Kumho won the decision.
200 pounds of steel lands on Thursday. 3 guesses as to where it's coming from, and the first 2 don't count
Wrong *OR
Looking good Jimbo
Thanks Nickster - good to hear from you brudda
so how is the LA install going?
Ummm...it's not
I'll have to wait until after GSW I think
Interesting turn of events.
Most folks saw that I tacoed a lower control arm bracket on Cliffhanger in Moab. No big deal, it breaks, it needs to be upgraded, right?
But.......The steel sleeve in the axle side bushing on my Teraflex shortarms is about 1/8" too wide. Can't get the fugger in there, and I'm not about to try to bend 1/4" steel.
I'm kinda thinking this accelerates the install of the front half of my Claytons - can it be bolted on and BE SAFE to transport it to a welder? The welds on the crossmember are just for extra strength, right?
No Jim...I wouldn't even begin to think it'd be safe to drive. Especially of any length of time and/or distance. You'd be relying upon two bolts on each side of the crossmember that are usually designed to just support the trans and crossmember to do that and the leverage that your new LCA's are going to apply on them. So no...I wouldn't recommend it at all.
I have some pics I can post or send to you if you'd like showing this...
I had mine just bolted for a while.
You will be fine.
Take it slow and dont get too bumpy but honestly, nothing will happen.
Thanks Matt - you helped confirm what I suspected.
If the Clayton ends fit in the brackets, the front half will be bolted on this week and taken to a welder as soon as possible.
I just responded on your other post.
Just to clarify what I said.
You CAN install the cross member and drive and get it welded in, as long as you do NOT install the arms.
You NEVER want to bolt up the cross member, install the long arms and drive it without welding the cross member in.
The bolts are more for alignment purposes. It can hold up the weight of the drivetrain, but never drive with the long arms hooked up without the cross member being welded in.
Adam
Clayton Off Road Mfg.
As I said in my other post, thank you so much for chiming in Adam. Just goes to show the service and support we get from our vendors.
I'll be digging through the garage looking for my old stock control arms. Yeah, the ride will suck getting to the welder, but at least I don't have to fawk with the trailer just for a 12 mile each way run.
Hmm...my 33s aren't gonna fit for shit with stock lowers. Good thing I didn't sell my 31s! Think I'm raked forward with 5" rear lift and 4" front lift? Now I'll be like a muscle car!
raked stance isn't all bad, just think off when you load the back in with a bunch of your over-packing-buddies-camping-gear-because-he-camps-like-my-grandmother-and-needs-duplicate-of-every-battery-operated-pos-that-you-can-buy-at-walmart-because-he-doesn't-know-how-to-camp...
the ass end of your rig wont be dragging on the on the ground when your loaded up. but then personally i hate a 'leveled' truck simply because it looks gay when the butt end is lower then the front because its loaded
but your rocking raked because of tires sizes... that is muscle car! rock on man! ---just dont pop it into 4x4! lol
Last edited by jborushko; 07-07-2010 at 07:35 PM.
Yuppers!
Some people have given me shit about having more lift in the back than in the front, then I tell them to put 250+ pounds of gear, recovery equipment and spares in the back and see what their Jeep looks like...for some reason, they suddenly shut the hell up. No clue why
242 FTW
Hmmm...this is turning out to be more of a challenge than I expected.
Teraflex arms are a no go without machining the sleeves, and I don't have a bench grinder. So, I was going to attempt to use stock lower arms just to make it roll. Rear lowers are longer than front lowers, so I grabbed them out of the spares pile. Not enough rotational travel at the axle side.
I'm thinking bolt up the crossmember, prep it for welding, and have a mobile guy come out. I found a listing for $55 an hour, just need to find out if they're unibody capable.
"rotational travel" wtf you smoking Jim?
You mean you can't rotate the axle back far enough to reach the control arms? Take out the springs so nothing is forcing it flat...you may end up with some bowed springs for a little bit...
Correct - I can't rotate the axle far enough back to engage the upper CAs.
This is without springs. Forcing it flat would actually be a good thing
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