A Gentleman's Jeep

[YOUNGBLOOD]

Hey everyone, new here, new to Jeeps, but not wheeling. Was a part of the full size Bronco and Blazer wheeling group before, had a Bronco on 35's lockers long arms blah blah. Sold it in favor of something newer, and fancier (mistake) and right now, I plan on no fender hacking, jerryrigging crap, just a smooth riding leather seated trail machine to take all the hot bitches to the backwoods with n get jiggy, thus the title(this is total sarcasm btw, as was the title) the fenders are getting hacked as soon as I build an axle setup to hold 35's, and that's why I'm going to 6 of lift with 33's, so I don't need to buy new springs later. I've got an 01 WJ limited, factory towing package, 4.7 with QD seeing as how it's a limited etc. I've had all sorts of little problems with the stupid piece of shit, but I won't go into those, I'm putting those behind me and starting my build! It's gonna be my daily driver, and weekend wheeler, you all know the drill.

Here's what we're working with...


The day I bought her


Took her wheeling for about all she was capable of


Got Fancy with the emblems



Here are the plans!

Suspension: Iron rock offroad 6in critical path long arm kit (long arm front long/short arm rear)

Tires & Wheels: ordered some 33/12.5/15 ProComp Mud Terrains buy 3 get 1 free, and came out to $650 for a set of 33's, not my first choice in tire, but couldn't beat the price. Should be here monday! Summit racing d-window steelies, 3.75 bs, 15x8 basically they're cheap, that's why I'm running them

Armor: Needs sliders, whether I buy them, or try to borrow a welder to fab them is the question. If I buy them they will be JCR stage 3 sliders, because those are the best priced ones of that type. Also looking at getting some skids. I really like the IRO high clearance t-case cross member, and then maybe their t-case/cat skid. possibly making a mini skid/ underside truss for the 44a, and maybe diff armor for both axles too

Other Crap I Wanna Do: Ditch the crappy infinity sound system, get a setup with components and a better amp, it is a DD after all (already have a sub and aftermarket head unit) Exhaust, flowmaster 44 probably. New Headlights, mine are nasty. Maybe a roof rack, or hitch mounted spare carrier if I can make a low profile one.

Eventually I wanna swap axles and run 35's, bumpers, etc. but for now, and until I break shit, or wear out my 33's, that's not gonna happen.

Whaddya all think of my plans? I'm doing them either way, but I would like some input! Lets get this build started!

[IndyZJ]

Sounds like a typical poser rig. If you're against trimming, you'll want to find a different site.

6.5" lift + 33s with stock everything else = mega ghey. It will perform like a dog, look and drive like a minivan parked on top of a roller skate, and needlessly eat through driveshafts, suspension, and steering parts.

Do a nice, clean trim job and run your 33s with 2" lift tops and slightly extended bumpstops. Look up jeeptech01's old WJ build. If you are going to wheel it, lift the tank and add sliders. Use the money you didn't spend on too much lift and purchase a MIG and make/ buy a tubing bender to fab your own parts.

If you just want to park it at the local high school and pick up chicks, carry on as planned and join jeepsunlimited.

[biggoofy]

Sounds like a typical poser rig. If you're against trimming, you'll want to find a different site.

6.5" lift + 33s with stock everything else = mega ghey. It will perform like a dog, look and drive like a minivan parked on top of a roller skate, and needlessly eat through driveshafts, suspension, and steering parts.

Do a nice, clean trim job and run your 33s with 2" lift tops and slightly extended bumpstops. Look up jeeptech01's old WJ build. If you are going to wheel it, lift the tank and add sliders. Use the money you didn't spend on too much lift and purchase a MIG and make/ buy a tubing bender to fab your own parts.

If you just want to park it at the local high school and pick up chicks, carry on as planned and join jeepsunlimited.

Yup indy is right. eat shit noob

[YOUNGBLOOD]

Sounds like a typical poser rig. If you're against trimming, you'll want to find a different site.

6.5" lift + 33s with stock everything else = mega ghey. It will perform like a dog, look and drive like a minivan parked on top of a roller skate, and needlessly eat through driveshafts, suspension, and steering parts.

Do a nice, clean trim job and run your 33s with 2" lift tops and slightly extended bumpstops. Look up jeeptech01's old WJ build. If you are going to wheel it, lift the tank and add sliders. Use the money you didn't spend on too much lift and purchase a MIG and make/ buy a tubing bender to fab your own parts.

If you just want to park it at the local high school and pick up chicks, carry on as planned and join jeepsunlimited.

I'm really not against trimming, I'm going 6 lift so i can go to 35's later when I build an axle setup, without having to get new springs. I just won't have to trim, I'm not against it, and with 33's at 6 and it won't be miserable on stock gears. If I could get the old 5.5 springs they used to make I'd snag those, vs the 6.5. And yeah I know it will go through parts fast, I already picked up 2 extra dana 30 shafts, and replaced the hub assemblies, and did balljoints, so at least it has fresh parts to wear on.TRE's are next, but I'm considering the IRO over knuckle kit with heims, or maybe the JCR 1 ton steering, but it seems kind of pointless if I'm going to build an axle setup unless it's all a direct swap. I understand the stock front shaft is weak, I'm just running it til it dies though. My entire intro was sarcastic haha I could care less about picking up chicks. I have sliders listed in my plans, and armor, I forgot to add tank tuck but I'm doing that as well. I have a friend with a shop, pipe bender, welders, and a lift where I am installing it. It's just getting in time there when they aren't actually working on stuff for their company that's hard. I'm planning a cage eventually, but my plans I listed were just all my basic stuff I'm doing in the next month.

[YOUNGBLOOD]

That's at 6 on 33's, I personally don't think it looks like a mini van on roller skates, or that .5 more of lift will make it look like that. I'm not sure if you were just trolling telling me to go to 2 of lift, and 33's, or not, but I just thought I'd post that to show what I am planning on doing. Thanks for the feedback though

[BigClay]

Yup indy is right. eat shit noob

"You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to biggoofy again."

[tjswj]

That's at 6 on 33's, I personally don't think it looks like a mini van on roller skates, or that .5 more of lift will make it look like that. I'm not sure if you were just trolling telling me to go to 2 of lift, and 33's, or not, but I just thought I'd post that to show what I am planning on doing. Thanks for the feedback though

If you would have read more of Chris's build you would have seen that he was having problems rubbing when flexed. He trimmed front and rear to properly fit those 33's. So unless your planning on a pavement princess, you better get the cut off wheels out.

[YOUNGBLOOD]

If you would have read more of Chris's build you would have seen that he was having problems rubbing when flexed. He trimmed front and rear to properly fit those 33's. So unless your planning on a pavement princess, you better get the cut off wheels out.

I'm ready to cut if I need to, He is also running minimal bumpstop...

[YOUNGBLOOD]

Tires just got here, gonna be 2 or 3 weeks before I get to use them, but I'm excited still!

[tjswj]

[QUOTE=YOUNGBLOOD;338752]I'm ready to cut if I need to, is Chris Jeeptech01? I couldn't find his wj build, only his xj build.. [QUOTE]

chris's build - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/...build-1100904/

[YOUNGBLOOD]

Oh yeah, I read his but a long while ago. So pretty much I plan on running as little bumpstop as possible (til the shock is almost fully compressed) so a good trim of the front might be in order especially since my wheels have 3.75 bs, and a washer fluid bottle relocation will probably be needed. The build might be pushed back another week or two though, because I found a trailer for a really good price I might not be able to pass up..

[biggoofy]

I have a Zj washer bottle ill sell if ya wanna do the swap.

[YOUNGBLOOD]

Ok guys, not much to report, been buying too much non jeep related shit and my fund has shrunk a little, but my tax return gets here tomorrow, and I get paid friday, so the lift will be ordered this week. Wheels are already ordered as of 2 minutes ago. But I've been thinking, If I'm gonna run 35's, why not just jump to them straight away, and save money on buying tires again. I could sell off my 33's and pick up some 35's for maybe $100-$200 more, then there's just the issue of regearing when I get the money, I've talked to a couple people local to me running WJ's on 35's, all on stock axle setups, and all of them ran stock gears for a bit too, and claim it wasn't too bad driving it around like that. The one guy (the Jeep pictured above on 33 swamper, which is now on 35 kevlars) blew up a couple cv joints, but he was also locked front, I'll just be running lsd. I ran 35's with 3.55 gears on my old rig with a 5.8 v8 and it wasn't the best but it wasn't horrible either. but at this point I just want the damn thing lifted, so I will probably run my 33's for now, really don't wanna have to wait any longer to go wheeling, I'm sick of riding bitch!
oh yeah, and where's a good place to get d44a gears? I've only found like one site that sells them

[YOUNGBLOOD]

So I need some input on this, I've been thinking of getting the rough country long arms with 6 coils, adding shocks and a trac bar, vs the iro basic kit. The RC has rear long arms, a crossmember, disconnects, and is all adjustable. What one is better for the money? $1600 ish.

Vs

[fluxcap]

The suspension IMHO is not a place to skimp. IRO has a full upgradable system. If you go with RC and dont like their quality are you going to spend a bucket o money on good joints and fixing it or buy another brand later? How hard are you going to wheel?

[IndyZJ]

Do your own research and decide what is best for you and your money. Both have their own issues, as with any aftermarket suspension kit.

RC has produced joints in the past that have not held up well, but they appear to have revised them somewhat recently. The front will work just like any other dual radius arm setup. The back will be subject to significant pinion angle change with long lowers and stock upper whishbone mounts, but this probably isn't a concern with you described use. A center limit strap would keep it from being an issue along with other benefits when wheeling.

IRO's wristed radius arm design is prone to significant brake steer (dive to one side under braking), especially with rubber or soft poly bushings at the axle - many with the kit deny it, but it is a serious design flaw IMO. Google wristed radius arms - this design is functionally identical. At least one member here has had the brake steer issue with this kit and it has been heavily discussed if you use the search. Stock-sized hardware, especially with regards to the UCA, is unsafe IMO - the results are well-documented. The only advantage to the single upper is eliminating the bind inherent in radius arms, but with quality bushings and not having obscene/useless amounts of droop this tends to not be an issue.

Both are bolt-on with minimal mounting points - a big problem for most here but okay for what you seem to want as long as you are aware that bolts can loosen up over time. The best thing you could do for any suspension is to get some quality shocks (appropriately-valved Bilstein 5100s are good for the money). I still highly recommend not going to 6" of lift, even if you go to 35s.

[YOUNGBLOOD]

Thanks for the advice guys, I was unaware of the brake steer issue with the IRO kit, but it makes sense. I understand at 6 I'm going to start stressing parts a lot more, but I've been down this road before, so I plan on replacing suspension parts pretty soon here, and I always go through my rig and tighten all the lift etc bolts before a wheeling trip. I'm doing moderate trails, we just don't have many super gnarly trails around here, most anything can be done with 33's and a locker. I've ditched the idea of 35's for now, I just don't need them at this point. The IRO keeping the stock wishbone and short uppers was the main reason I even looked into the RC kit, and I sorta like the idea of the more tried and tested radius arm setup vs the IRO setup which seems mostly exclusive to them. plus I don't really like the caster adjustment bracket being the only point to adjust everything from, vs having the adjustable radius arms. So the RC is a little better of a design in theory, but I haven't found many people who are unhappy with the IRO kit either. Damn I wish I just had the money and fab stuff for claytons but college tuition and paying bills with a part time job, plus motocross is killin the jeep fund so basically it's all gonna come down to price. I think I can get a slight discount, and cheaper shipping through IRO from a vendor for them, and if it's a matter of $200 different, well that buys me a spare tire and I think for my uses, either kit will do good. Wheels are ordered btw, and the lift is getting ordered asap!

[cowboy63b]

Clayton FTMFW!

[biggoofy]

Clayton

[YOUNGBLOOD]

If I could I would, but the lack of a welder means I need a bolt on solution for now. A welder is my next purchase so I can make sliders and skids.

[IndyZJ]

Clayton

They sell one of the best pre-made kits for ZJs/WJs, but even Clayton's has design issues/ flaws. It is geometrically identical to RC in the front and the rear lacks enough triangulation to effectively locate the rear end without over-stressing joints and mounts to the point of the rear end visibly shifting under high loads and even breaking factory (Clayton's) welds. RC's WJ kit actually does a better job of laterally locating the rear end (geometrically speaking) and offers better ground clearance in at least the front.

Clayton's advantages as it comes are that it is welded on, which distributes the suspension's loads immensely better, uses proven joints, and has square tube arms are more resistant to bending than round of the same material, OD, and thickness.

[YOUNGBLOOD]

Found an 8.8 for cheap local, is it even worth building up for 35s or should I look for a 9 or just keep the 44hd and build a skid? (All of them would be trussed once I get rear long arms)

[YOUNGBLOOD]

Tires n wheels mounted/balanced also picked up a spare


Brown Santa came through with some swag!


Installed flex joints and bushings in everything




Parts Pile
install is this weekend


Also picked up that trailer time to get some motocross in

[YOUNGBLOOD]

teaser pic... Got the front done, then finals and work got in the way... rear should be finished tomorrow

[YOUNGBLOOD]

"Iron Y" installed. Install was easy for sure



passenger side long arm... even easier to install than the other side. and yes I tried to put in my trackbar backwards for a solid 30 minutes before I realized I was doing it wrong :P



coil etc, didn't have to compress these to get them in so install was way easy



rear short arms. It's maybe 1/2 an inch longer than stock... also a breeze to install. Initial impressions it rides like a truck in the back now. Not bad, but I can definately see wanting LA's rear in the future. They sent me Nitro shocks for the front and Hydro rear when I requested all Hydro... but oh well. Rides awesome for having those ****ty RC shocks up front. I hate those things



The rear coils needed some lovin to get them to fit, those short arms don't have much droop :thumbdown:



Rear A arm spacer and coils installed. Word of advice for anyone doing this lift, get a racheting 22mm wrench, it would have made life so much easier. Also disconnect the brake lines from the A arm, makes installing the spacer super easy. I think the stock bolts are 13/16 or 21mm btw, forgot but I had to go buy a 22mm wrench for the new bolts, and could only get 1/4 turns in at a time.



finished product! pretty happy with it



took it for a spin to walmart to pick up a couple washers for the rear swaybar. got a tiny bit o driveline vibes and it wanders a tiny. Brake steer was BAD. Needs an alignment for sure. Not sure if the brake steer is something due to alignment, or maybe install somehow, or just the nature of the 3 link? gonna take it to get aligned tomorrow. Also had to trim about 1/2 on each side of the bottom of the wheelwell due to rubbing already.. I plan on plenty more once I get it wheeling