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Looking into getting 36" Iroks or something similar for my next tire (at the least a trail-only tire), but don't want to worry about my 30, even if its open. Im looking for a junkyard axle that I can tear the brackets off of, and build my own/buy and install my own brackets on. Now I honestly don't know what to look for in certain types of D44s and such. I'm really entertaining the idea of a D44, because of strength and such.
My question is, are there any D44"s that came in a width close to the dubjay (63.5", right?). If so, what do they come out of, what do I look for and what do I try to avoid? I'd like to add a locker to it eventually, once I get locking hubs or a different tcase....but tahts later.
I have been tossing around the idea a little as well. You want a Ford high pinion d44. It is drivers side drop and I believe some came in 65" width. I am not 100% on the years and models but am pretty sure it is late 70's. One of the biggest things to be aware of is that they used radius arms. Some of the mounts were cast and some of them were welded. You want the welded ones, since they can be removed. The only way to get rid of the cast ones is retube, and that kind of defeats the purpose. Anyway, hopefully that puts you in the right direction, maybe someone can chime in with more specific years and models.
pre 77 ford f150 and some f250s have the hp44 with welded radius arm mounts, i used the 78 with the cast radius arm mounts but i got a set of axles for nothing so it didnt really bother me
if you can find a matching set of axles from a 77 it would be perfect
hpdana44 and big bearing ford 9", matching bolt patterns
I run a 44 front and think it is a good upgrade as long as your willing to buy chromo's and ctm/jantz joint or something similar. I have not had a problem with mine since I went that route but stock I broke something 2 of the first 3 times out. By the time I bought the alloy usa axles and superjoints I could have went dana 60 and would have had stronger everything.
Check out some of the info in this thread on my local board.
http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=38612
Has anyone actually went out and measured these so called 65 or 68 WMS front axles. I've yet to see one. I did alot of research when I picked up my rear. The rear's are 65 but the front's were all 70 even on the 1/2 ton's that I looked at.
How bad is a vacuum diso waggy 44 drivers side drop front?
My brother in law was out at a local yard, and found one that they would let go of for $150. I've been reading and everyone says avoid at all costs, but is there a way do get rid of the vacuum disco's?
On a YJ vac disco you can plate off the disco and swap axle shafts to make it work. Same on the Waggy's I'd imagine.
Waggy 44's are 61.5" wide as I recall. Most of that difference in width was between the pumpkin and the driver's knuckle. I looked at one locally, but felt that it was too narrow to fit in the WJ spring perch, etc and still keep all of the angles looking good (driveline, spring location, etc.). I think that a 61.5" axle width can work out fine in a rear axle application, but that one was a little tight up front.
They are also 6 bolt... not a big deal if you need new shafts to make it work anyway, but swapping patterns would require new rotors, etc...
I say just carry spare D30 shafts. You can get em for $49 per side.
yeah but theres no way in hell im going to lock the d30 with 35's, I just dont feel safe with it. the R&P is weak also, so its scary.
I can deal with bolt pattern, I just want the width closeish.
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