zj-monster
06-17-2006, 07:58 PM
This write-up is just a simple breakdown of the NV242 transfer case while it's still hooked up to the Jeep. In my situation I had a leak that I wanted to take care of fast. Therfore having to drop the whole case was unnecessary. This write-up is not only for the n00bie who has no clue as to what to do or where to begin, but also for the casual mechanic with a short memory. Hopefully by the time you have finished reading this you will have a better understanding of how to break a transfercase down. This should also pave the way for you start working up the nerve to install a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit someday. For now though, we're just gonna fix a leak.
One of the reasons I chose to do this write-up was because of the poor illustration found in my Haynes Repair Manual for the Jeep Grand Cherokee 1993 thru 2000. For some odd reason they illustrated the NP242 on page 7C-5 but no mention of the NV242 that is under my Jeep. As confusing as this world already is, I can only imagine what it must be like for someone who has never torn a t-case down & having only a Haynes manual to help.
The majority of the photos used here are mine with the exception of a few. Those photos are courtesy of Eddie at www.4x4xplor.com (http://www.4x4xplor.com) & are used with permission. I didn't think about making a write-up untill I was halfway thru my fix-a-leak project. Eddie's pics were blessing when I forgot to snap a few here & there. Please take the time to visit his site as it is packed full of tips & how-to's on TJ's & CJ's.
The orientation of this write-up will have the instructions posted on top of each photo. Read, look & follow along.
** The first part of this project will list the tools needed and what they will be used for and the breakdown of the case. The right tools for the job will make life much better.
** The second part will go into clean up & reassembly of the case.
** The third part of this write up will be a technical view of the 242 t-case and the differences between them. Somewhere between late 1990's and early 2000's, New Process changed it's name to New Venture. Therefore you will find that there is an NP242 and the NV242. My 242 has the New Process tag but it's designed like the NV242. Are ya confused yet?
Please, please, please read this write-up before you tear into your case. Even though this is the NV242 out of my '98 ZJ, the basics of this breakdown applies to almost any t-case. Of course there will be differences.
• Wheel Chocks / Blocks
• 5/16" Socket w 1/4" Ratchet
• 1/2" Socket w 1/4" Ratchet
• 15mm Socket w 3/8" Ratchet
• 10mm 12-Point Socket w 3/8" Ratchet
• Ratchet Extensions
• 10mm Hex Key
• Flat Head Screwdriver (Small & Large)
• Rubber Mallet
• Needle Nose & Regular Pliers
• Heavy Duty Retaining-Ring/Snap-Ring Pliers
• Heavy Duty Lock-Ring Pliers
• Gasket Scraper
• RTV Gasket Sealer (Ultra Black, Gray, Red, or Ultra Copper)
• 2 Pints ATF+3 or ATF+4 (Check your service manual!)
• Bottle Pump or Spout
• Oil Catch Pan
• Rags
• Jack Stands (Recommended)
• Floor Jack (Recommended)
Let me explain to you about the types of pliers used here. When I say Heavy Duty, I mean don't go cheap on these. The pics below have an insert that will show you the type of rings that the pliers will be used for. The pliers on the Left are Internal & Extermanl Retaining-Ring/Snap-Ring Pliers. The pliers on the right are Lock-Ring Pliers.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00565a.jpg http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00563a.jpg
** What ever you do in this world don't ever forget SAFETY FIRST!! **
The next task to be done will be choking/blocking all four wheels. Even if the tranny on your Jeep is in park, once you start messing with the t-case, you're Jeep could decide to say "F.U." and roll away while you are underneath. Me personnally, I placed my Jeep in park but kept the t-case in neutral so I could rotate the rear driveshaft as I was taking it off. Keeping the t-case in neutal also helped out a bit when it came time to remove the lock-rings.
On the tools list I mentioned jackstands. This is for those who have small or no lift at all. My overall suggestion is this, if you have no problems getting underneath your Jeep then stands may not be necessary. Keep in mind that for this task we are not dropping the t-case but you will still need plenty of room to move around underneath.
Once you are certain that your Jeep will not roll away it's time to crawl underneath and drain your t-case of fluid. You will see 2 plugs, unscrew the drain plug with a 10mm Hex Key.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00597.jpg
Next use either needle nose or regular pliers and remove one of the two metal bands securing the Slip Yoke rubber boot, which is located on the slipyoke portion of the driveshaft. The strap to be removed secures the boot to the transfer case slinger.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC08238.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00585.jpg
You will find that this strap is a pain in the ass to remove. If you feel that it can not be reused, fear not as zip ties will make an easy replacement. If you use zip ties, you must be careful in removing them so that you do not damage the boot next time you do this project.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00586.jpg
Move to the rear of the axle and remove 4 bolts and 2 yoke straps that secure the drive shaft to the rear axle using a 5/16" socket or wrench. This is where having the t-case in neutral helps. Once you have the 1st yoke strap removed you can grab the driveshaft and rotate untill you remove the 2nd strap. Be prepared to catch the ass-end of the driveshaft in case it drops to the ground. If it does not drop, don't worry as you are about to learn why the other end is called a Slip Yoke.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00592.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00593.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00595.jpg
Simply grab the driveshaft and slide it forward as if you were trying to shove it into the transmission. The ass-end should disengage itself from the axle. You will notice that the driveshaft is rather light. Now slide the shaft out of the transfer case and place it out the way. What you should see is this.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00581.jpg
Unplug the speedometer wiring harness connected to your transfer case tail housing. Here you will need to use a small screw driver to slide out the red key locking the connector in place. Disconnect the plug from the speedometer gear.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC08236.jpg
Using a 1/2" socket, remove the retaining bolt and metal clip securing your speedometer gear housing to the tail housing.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00580.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00579.jpg
Firmly grab the speedometer gear housing and carefully pull it out. If you have bigger tires already, now would actually be a good time to change this gear out to correct your speedometer.
** Remember the original orientation of the speedo gear during reassembly! **
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00577.jpg
Here is where the fun really begins. The removal of the slinger was an ass kicker for me. There are several ways to remove this. You can use a gear puller with a 5" reach to extract. This can be rented from your local autoshop.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC08263.jpg
Or use a chisel / flathead screwdriver & hammer. I ended up making a slight groove for the flathead to grab onto and hammered the slinger loose. It rotated counter clockwise off.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00573.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00507.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00508.jpg
Now that you have that P.O.S. off, there will be a metal slip-ring (if you have one). Simply slide it off and you should see your 1st lock-ring and the Output Shaft Seal.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00505.jpg
Grab your lock-ring pliers and go after the lock-ring holding the Output Shaft Seal. If you plan on re-using the lock-ring, be careful not to damage it. It is possible to bend & warp the ring.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00572.jpg
Remove the Output Shaft Seal by tapping a flathead screwdriver with a hammer all the way around the seal until it comes off.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC08264.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00570.jpg
Remove the 2nd lock-ring that keeps the Output Shaft Bearing in place.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00569.jpg
Remove the snap-ring that holds the tail Housing in place.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00559.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00556.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00557.jpg
Remove all bolts holding the transfer case tail housing using a 15mm socket.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00554.jpg
After all bolts are loose, you should be able to whack the tail housing with a rubber mallet. If you end up having to use a screwdriver & a hammer be careful not to damage the case as it is made of aluminum.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC08269.jpg
Grab the tail housing and slide it off the Output Shaft.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00551.jpg
Here is where you should be. What you are looking at is the oil pump.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00543.jpg
Here is a bit of extra education for ya. Look carefully at the teeth deep inside the output shaft and the teeth on the speed gear and see how they meet to measure the speed of the Jeep.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00546.jpg
Now it's time to break open the t-case. Using a 15mm socket you will remove all bolts except for one at the top. For the top bolt you need a 10mm 12-point socket. Pay attention to where each bolt came off and arrange them accordingly on the ground. You will notice that a couple of them are longer and that 2 of the bolts have washers. All bolts will need to go back to the specific hole they originally came from.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC08280.jpg
Here is a look at the bolts. Notice the 12-point bolt on the right. The other two bolts are the same except that one has a washer & is slightly longer.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00531.jpg
The 12-point bolt gave me one hell of a hard time. I ended up having to reach around the back end of the transfer case only to realize that I had forgotten there is a nut back there that is used to hold a wire retainer. Not only did I have to unthread the 12-point bolt from the t-case itself but also from this nut thus making life rather hard. This nut is not required for reassembly. Just make sure you keep the wires out of way.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00526.jpg
Here is the order in which the bolts are placed. Notice the two bolts on the far left & right with washers & the 12-point bolt.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00527.jpg
Look at the seam of the t-case and you find a small notch where a flat head screwdriver can be placed. Carefully pry open the t-case without using excessive force which can cause damage. Watch out as more fluid will pour out.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC08282.jpg
With the transfer case partially separated, you should be able to remove the oil pump by lifting up and pulling it off the output shaft. There is a small oil pickup tube at the base of the pump that will need to be disconnected. It's just held in by a rubber O-ring and will unplug with little effort.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC08285.jpg
Remove the t-case half and set it aside. At the base of the t-case, you will find a flat round magnet in a slot where the two halves come together.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00519.jpg
This is a collecting magnet used to grab metal shavings. It will look rather fuzzy at first but truth be told, that's metal shavings. Pull this magnet out and clean off all metal fillings attached to it. Look for larger chunks that would indicate serious wear or damage to the components inside the case. In the photo below you will see the shavings left behind after a slight cleaning. I used lots of brake cleaner & rags.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00525.jpg
At this point, the break down is complete.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00509.jpg
One of the reasons I chose to do this write-up was because of the poor illustration found in my Haynes Repair Manual for the Jeep Grand Cherokee 1993 thru 2000. For some odd reason they illustrated the NP242 on page 7C-5 but no mention of the NV242 that is under my Jeep. As confusing as this world already is, I can only imagine what it must be like for someone who has never torn a t-case down & having only a Haynes manual to help.
The majority of the photos used here are mine with the exception of a few. Those photos are courtesy of Eddie at www.4x4xplor.com (http://www.4x4xplor.com) & are used with permission. I didn't think about making a write-up untill I was halfway thru my fix-a-leak project. Eddie's pics were blessing when I forgot to snap a few here & there. Please take the time to visit his site as it is packed full of tips & how-to's on TJ's & CJ's.
The orientation of this write-up will have the instructions posted on top of each photo. Read, look & follow along.
** The first part of this project will list the tools needed and what they will be used for and the breakdown of the case. The right tools for the job will make life much better.
** The second part will go into clean up & reassembly of the case.
** The third part of this write up will be a technical view of the 242 t-case and the differences between them. Somewhere between late 1990's and early 2000's, New Process changed it's name to New Venture. Therefore you will find that there is an NP242 and the NV242. My 242 has the New Process tag but it's designed like the NV242. Are ya confused yet?
Please, please, please read this write-up before you tear into your case. Even though this is the NV242 out of my '98 ZJ, the basics of this breakdown applies to almost any t-case. Of course there will be differences.
• Wheel Chocks / Blocks
• 5/16" Socket w 1/4" Ratchet
• 1/2" Socket w 1/4" Ratchet
• 15mm Socket w 3/8" Ratchet
• 10mm 12-Point Socket w 3/8" Ratchet
• Ratchet Extensions
• 10mm Hex Key
• Flat Head Screwdriver (Small & Large)
• Rubber Mallet
• Needle Nose & Regular Pliers
• Heavy Duty Retaining-Ring/Snap-Ring Pliers
• Heavy Duty Lock-Ring Pliers
• Gasket Scraper
• RTV Gasket Sealer (Ultra Black, Gray, Red, or Ultra Copper)
• 2 Pints ATF+3 or ATF+4 (Check your service manual!)
• Bottle Pump or Spout
• Oil Catch Pan
• Rags
• Jack Stands (Recommended)
• Floor Jack (Recommended)
Let me explain to you about the types of pliers used here. When I say Heavy Duty, I mean don't go cheap on these. The pics below have an insert that will show you the type of rings that the pliers will be used for. The pliers on the Left are Internal & Extermanl Retaining-Ring/Snap-Ring Pliers. The pliers on the right are Lock-Ring Pliers.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00565a.jpg http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00563a.jpg
** What ever you do in this world don't ever forget SAFETY FIRST!! **
The next task to be done will be choking/blocking all four wheels. Even if the tranny on your Jeep is in park, once you start messing with the t-case, you're Jeep could decide to say "F.U." and roll away while you are underneath. Me personnally, I placed my Jeep in park but kept the t-case in neutral so I could rotate the rear driveshaft as I was taking it off. Keeping the t-case in neutal also helped out a bit when it came time to remove the lock-rings.
On the tools list I mentioned jackstands. This is for those who have small or no lift at all. My overall suggestion is this, if you have no problems getting underneath your Jeep then stands may not be necessary. Keep in mind that for this task we are not dropping the t-case but you will still need plenty of room to move around underneath.
Once you are certain that your Jeep will not roll away it's time to crawl underneath and drain your t-case of fluid. You will see 2 plugs, unscrew the drain plug with a 10mm Hex Key.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00597.jpg
Next use either needle nose or regular pliers and remove one of the two metal bands securing the Slip Yoke rubber boot, which is located on the slipyoke portion of the driveshaft. The strap to be removed secures the boot to the transfer case slinger.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC08238.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00585.jpg
You will find that this strap is a pain in the ass to remove. If you feel that it can not be reused, fear not as zip ties will make an easy replacement. If you use zip ties, you must be careful in removing them so that you do not damage the boot next time you do this project.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00586.jpg
Move to the rear of the axle and remove 4 bolts and 2 yoke straps that secure the drive shaft to the rear axle using a 5/16" socket or wrench. This is where having the t-case in neutral helps. Once you have the 1st yoke strap removed you can grab the driveshaft and rotate untill you remove the 2nd strap. Be prepared to catch the ass-end of the driveshaft in case it drops to the ground. If it does not drop, don't worry as you are about to learn why the other end is called a Slip Yoke.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00592.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00593.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00595.jpg
Simply grab the driveshaft and slide it forward as if you were trying to shove it into the transmission. The ass-end should disengage itself from the axle. You will notice that the driveshaft is rather light. Now slide the shaft out of the transfer case and place it out the way. What you should see is this.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00581.jpg
Unplug the speedometer wiring harness connected to your transfer case tail housing. Here you will need to use a small screw driver to slide out the red key locking the connector in place. Disconnect the plug from the speedometer gear.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC08236.jpg
Using a 1/2" socket, remove the retaining bolt and metal clip securing your speedometer gear housing to the tail housing.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00580.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00579.jpg
Firmly grab the speedometer gear housing and carefully pull it out. If you have bigger tires already, now would actually be a good time to change this gear out to correct your speedometer.
** Remember the original orientation of the speedo gear during reassembly! **
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00577.jpg
Here is where the fun really begins. The removal of the slinger was an ass kicker for me. There are several ways to remove this. You can use a gear puller with a 5" reach to extract. This can be rented from your local autoshop.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC08263.jpg
Or use a chisel / flathead screwdriver & hammer. I ended up making a slight groove for the flathead to grab onto and hammered the slinger loose. It rotated counter clockwise off.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00573.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00507.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00508.jpg
Now that you have that P.O.S. off, there will be a metal slip-ring (if you have one). Simply slide it off and you should see your 1st lock-ring and the Output Shaft Seal.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00505.jpg
Grab your lock-ring pliers and go after the lock-ring holding the Output Shaft Seal. If you plan on re-using the lock-ring, be careful not to damage it. It is possible to bend & warp the ring.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00572.jpg
Remove the Output Shaft Seal by tapping a flathead screwdriver with a hammer all the way around the seal until it comes off.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC08264.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00570.jpg
Remove the 2nd lock-ring that keeps the Output Shaft Bearing in place.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00569.jpg
Remove the snap-ring that holds the tail Housing in place.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00559.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00556.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00557.jpg
Remove all bolts holding the transfer case tail housing using a 15mm socket.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00554.jpg
After all bolts are loose, you should be able to whack the tail housing with a rubber mallet. If you end up having to use a screwdriver & a hammer be careful not to damage the case as it is made of aluminum.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC08269.jpg
Grab the tail housing and slide it off the Output Shaft.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00551.jpg
Here is where you should be. What you are looking at is the oil pump.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00543.jpg
Here is a bit of extra education for ya. Look carefully at the teeth deep inside the output shaft and the teeth on the speed gear and see how they meet to measure the speed of the Jeep.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00546.jpg
Now it's time to break open the t-case. Using a 15mm socket you will remove all bolts except for one at the top. For the top bolt you need a 10mm 12-point socket. Pay attention to where each bolt came off and arrange them accordingly on the ground. You will notice that a couple of them are longer and that 2 of the bolts have washers. All bolts will need to go back to the specific hole they originally came from.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC08280.jpg
Here is a look at the bolts. Notice the 12-point bolt on the right. The other two bolts are the same except that one has a washer & is slightly longer.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00531.jpg
The 12-point bolt gave me one hell of a hard time. I ended up having to reach around the back end of the transfer case only to realize that I had forgotten there is a nut back there that is used to hold a wire retainer. Not only did I have to unthread the 12-point bolt from the t-case itself but also from this nut thus making life rather hard. This nut is not required for reassembly. Just make sure you keep the wires out of way.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00526.jpg
Here is the order in which the bolts are placed. Notice the two bolts on the far left & right with washers & the 12-point bolt.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00527.jpg
Look at the seam of the t-case and you find a small notch where a flat head screwdriver can be placed. Carefully pry open the t-case without using excessive force which can cause damage. Watch out as more fluid will pour out.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC08282.jpg
With the transfer case partially separated, you should be able to remove the oil pump by lifting up and pulling it off the output shaft. There is a small oil pickup tube at the base of the pump that will need to be disconnected. It's just held in by a rubber O-ring and will unplug with little effort.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC08285.jpg
Remove the t-case half and set it aside. At the base of the t-case, you will find a flat round magnet in a slot where the two halves come together.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00519.jpg
This is a collecting magnet used to grab metal shavings. It will look rather fuzzy at first but truth be told, that's metal shavings. Pull this magnet out and clean off all metal fillings attached to it. Look for larger chunks that would indicate serious wear or damage to the components inside the case. In the photo below you will see the shavings left behind after a slight cleaning. I used lots of brake cleaner & rags.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00525.jpg
At this point, the break down is complete.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Forum%20Write%20Up/Transfer%20Case/DSC00509.jpg