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View Full Version : Got A Real Grinder!-Gold Dust Build



JohnBoulderCO
06-15-2006, 03:54 PM
After seeing I needed to trim a little more here and there and fix my bumper after GSW, I got a real grinder and some cut off wheels last night.

Whoooooooo!!!!! It's like cutting butter. I'm cleaning up all that pesky sheet metal.

Stop me before the roof comes off!;)

BigDaveZJ
06-15-2006, 04:01 PM
Stop me before the roof comes off!;)

Why would I do a silly thing like that??

JohnBoulderCO
06-15-2006, 05:25 PM
I won't. But my old grinder was junk compared to this one. It's fun to cut now!

spykosshow
06-15-2006, 09:35 PM
What kind of grinder?

ILikeMud
06-15-2006, 11:43 PM
Yea what brand?

A good grinder and sawzall are a wheelers best friends.

JohnBoulderCO
06-16-2006, 12:14 AM
It's nothing special but my old one was junk and I was sick of using it.

Makita angle grinder, 4 1/2", 7.5amps, 10,000rpm, $70 at Home Depot

I made some new mounts for my front TR bumper, it got tweaked hitting a big ledge on Golden Spike.

Cut up some 1/4" plate like butter. While the bumper was off, I cut up some sheet metal under the front fenders.

Having a good tool makes one look for things to use it on. Maybe I should re-phrase that.:D :drinkers:

OverkillZJ
06-16-2006, 12:51 AM
When we going to buggy it? :D

Texas ZJ1
06-16-2006, 04:18 PM
John was using his front bumper like a ice breaker, bang, crunch, crash...oh, I guess I can't climb that?


Hunter

ArloGuthroJeep
06-16-2006, 04:28 PM
And here this whole time I just thought the bumpers came pre-dented like that:D

Tommy
06-16-2006, 10:56 PM
U took the guard off right?

OverkillZJ
06-16-2006, 11:12 PM
U took the guard off right?

Be careful with that, I've launched cutoff wheels at peoples heads before.

JohnBoulderCO
06-16-2006, 11:40 PM
John was using his front bumper like a ice breaker, bang, crunch, crash...oh, I guess I can't climb that?

Hunter

Great analogy!!!! That is how I use the TR bumper to get up big ledges, an ARB bumper can't do that!

But I did climb it! Even after I fell off that big ledge (that's when the bumper moved on it's mounts) I broke sandstone (ice) and got back up it!

dads5.9
06-17-2006, 12:39 AM
I recently told Justin that the grinder that he got me a few years ago was the most used tool in our garage. I have the Makita as well and like it because it has a trigger instead of a slider switch. I want my grinder to shut off immediately when I let go of the trigger.

I've also started wearing welding gloves when using the grinder, not only for the sparks but the occasional slips. I "wire wheeled" the tip off of my finger this spring before using welding gloves.

Tommy
06-17-2006, 11:49 AM
Be careful with that, I've launched cutoff wheels at peoples heads before.


That happens. But it just gets in the way some times. I actually cut my left hand pointing finger with my grinder. About an 1.5 cut. Super glued it back together...

ATL ZJ
06-17-2006, 06:25 PM
That happens. But it just gets in the way some times. I actually cut my left hand pointing finger with my grinder. About an 1.5 cut. Super glued it back together...

Yeah you really gotta be careful though. I keep the guards on my grinders at home all the time, but at work none of the grinders have them and I nick myself probably once every 2 weeks. Reminds you how dangerous that shit really is.. Working on my own stuff, I've only needed to take the guard off a handful of times, so they come off only as needed and then go right back on.

rsl
06-17-2006, 08:35 PM
Talked to the Occupational Health & Safety guy at work on one of his inspections and he said instead of removing the guards entirely we could get away with cutting them down to the width of the grinder body and still be legal and it wouldn't allow your hand to slip up into the grinding disc. Works like a charm and no more hassles with OH&S.

Texas ZJ1
06-17-2006, 09:13 PM
Chuck Norris would have caught the flying disc in his beard.



Hunter

Tommy
06-18-2006, 05:42 PM
LOL.

http://mike.wordpress.com/files/2005/12/chuck_norris_1.jpg

nate
06-18-2006, 06:01 PM
Yeah I took mine off, not only does it get in the way, but I bought 5" grinder discs by mistake a while back and they wouldn't fit with the guard on.

Snowman
06-18-2006, 08:50 PM
It is like cutting brush and trees for the fire season; once you start it is really hard to stop. You only realize how much you cut when you start hauling the debris to the heap.

ILikeMud
06-18-2006, 08:55 PM
Yea metal can disappear all to easily.

Taking the gaurd off a grinder can be dangerous.

JohnBoulderCO
08-31-2006, 12:04 AM
I went through 6 cutting disks in the last two days. I'm not done yet. :D

Jim311
08-31-2006, 09:55 AM
I haven't run a guard on mine in years. I usually wear gloves when grinding though, mostly just for protection from sparks.

ILikeMud
08-31-2006, 10:27 AM
I took a grinder to the leg a few weeks back because it had no gaurd.
Got cought in the metal I was cutting, ripped out of my hands, the back end came flying into my knee. If the gaurd had been on I would have been fine.
Thankfully it didn't cut very deep or do any serious damage to my knee but I do have a cool looking scar now :D

JpRngr
08-31-2006, 03:14 PM
I went through 6 cutting disks in the last two days. I'm not done yet. :D

Is it a buggy now?:smt026

JohnBoulderCO
09-01-2006, 02:50 AM
Buggy, no. :D 4 more disks tonight. Still not done. :D

ArloGuthroJeep
09-01-2006, 09:30 AM
Hey John you could just give me your bumper if you're going to grind it all away:D

JohnBoulderCO
09-01-2006, 11:39 AM
Do you want the pieces I cut off?:D

JohnBoulderCO
09-05-2006, 09:46 PM
All done. It took a few more disks but I finished it Saturday morning.
I then ran Holy Cross on Sunday and everything was fine. New 35x12.5x15 MTR's and no bump stops, for maximum flex. Not a single tire rub.:D

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
09-05-2006, 10:18 PM
no pics = no chop :smt117

JohnBoulderCO
09-06-2006, 12:00 AM
Sunday. Running Holy Cross, on Cleveland Rock.

BigDaveZJ
09-06-2006, 12:02 AM
I'm glad to see you've gotten over your days of "lightly tapping" with a sledgehammer to get sheetmetal out of the way!

JohnBoulderCO
09-06-2006, 12:07 AM
:D:D:D Yeah, I think the front looks good, I spent some time on it. The rear needs a little work to "pretty-it-up".

I cut more then Chad did on David's, but I wanted to make sure the 35" tires would clear easy. I have more wheel offset, running 15" instead of 16", so more trimming is needed.

Hmmmm, room to spare...hmmmmmm.;)

ProjectZJOM617T
09-06-2006, 12:11 AM
Looks nice but is'nt this a shop subforum thing...

ILikeMud
09-06-2006, 12:16 AM
Nice trim job.

chadjans
09-06-2006, 01:50 AM
:D:D:D Yeah, I think the front looks good, I spent some time on it. The rear needs a little work to "pretty-it-up".

I cut more then Chad did on David's, but I wanted to make sure the 35" tires would clear easy. I have more wheel offset, running 15" instead of 16", so more trimming is needed.

Hmmmm, room to spare...hmmmmmm.;)

Please tell me you didn't shim out the rear inner and outer with aluminum spacers like you mentioned.

Looks good. David said, "trimming isn't as bad as I thought." Yeah when you have someone else do it.

Chad

JohnBoulderCO
09-06-2006, 08:24 PM
No I didn't do that, it was just an idea.

Funny you said that about trimming. Trimming the front fendors, not so bad. Trimming all the stuff under the front, a little longer. Trimming the front bumper, even longer...rear, longer still....seemed to go on forever...lots of disks, big mess....I wore eye, ear and lung protection (carbon dust)....glad it's done.

chadjans
09-06-2006, 10:33 PM
Many don't realize how long it takes to do it correctly. The first cut is always the worst. You going to rivit together the inner and outer in the rear?

Chad

JohnBoulderCO
09-06-2006, 10:37 PM
I'm leaning that way. Then cover the remaining rear fender lip with Rino paint or use textured tape, so you can't see the rivets....a little black stripe that blends into the rear bumper.

Matt
09-09-2006, 11:51 PM
Here's a little better shot of the timming. Yeah no touching the sheel metal. :D

You started me thinking! The new shoes looked/performed great. ;)

LSRGreg
01-16-2009, 05:38 PM
reviving this sucker from the dead!!

so did you have to remove the washer reservior system? If so, did you remount it, and where?

What about the charcoal canister in the rear? same deal??

Did you just fold over the pinch seams, or did you have to push them in with a hammer to clear them?

What back spacing are your wheels??

I just picked up a WJ 3 days ago and clayton's with 35's are in the works.. thanks for ur time!
G-

adam99wj
01-17-2009, 08:43 PM
i did about the same chop as john, and i didnt remove the washer bottle but it would be reccomended as its in a very vulnerable place.

i didnt even see a charcoal canister when i chopped the rear??

i bashed the pinch seams with a BFH untill flat

i was running a 15x8" steel wheels with 4"s of BS with 35x12.50x15 truxs MTs

LSRGreg
01-17-2009, 09:04 PM
right on.. thanks for the help. the charcoal canister is hiding behind the rear bumper on the drivers side.. but if you aren't familiar with it, then it is probably fine where its at.

g-

chadjans
01-17-2009, 09:51 PM
right on.. thanks for the help. the charcoal canister is hiding behind the rear bumper on the drivers side.. but if you aren't familiar with it, then it is probably fine where its at.

g-

The charcoal crap was moved to the rear in later years.

LSRGreg
01-19-2009, 03:37 PM
so what is the ideal wheel size and backspace to run with Claytons 6" kit, and 35's?? I will be doing the same amount of trimming you guys are doing.

I want to run 17" real beadlocks, and my favorites are the Allied "Monster" but they only come in a 17 X 9.5 with 4" backspace.. and i am afraid those will be too wide. What do you guys think?? Thanks for putting up with my noob questions.

G-

The Dude
01-20-2009, 12:58 AM
Be careful with that, I've launched cutoff wheels at peoples heads before.

I wish i was that lucky...they always seem to come back and ding me in the leg or gut...

JohnBoulderCO
01-20-2009, 10:36 AM
I can't add much more then what was said above, but this is what I did:
- I replaced the WJ washer bottle with a ZJ bottle, the washer pumps and low fluid level sensor transfer right over. There are write ups on this site if you search.
- No rear charcoal canister on 2000
- I'm running 15x8 steel wheels with 3.75" BS and clear the new WJ brakes.
- 17"x9.5" with of 4"BS will make you 1.5" wider per side then me (and past Adam build) with your tires outside the fenders, but I'm already outside with my wheels. I think the extra width will be fine. If you hit your fender edges (under compression) just increase your bump stops a tad.
-Use plastic edge trim for metal landscaping from HomeDepot for the fenders, to make it cleaner.
-If I did the rear again I would have made cuts between the spot welds and used a BHF and a cresent wrench to fold the seem flat instead of cutting. I attached the two rear pieces back together after cutting, which was more work then cutting them. Leaving the spot welds would have saved a step.

LSRGreg
01-20-2009, 10:56 AM
john,
thanks for the insight. i already picked up a ZJ washer bottle..

I am more worried about hitting the lower rear corners on the front end because there is only so much room to trim. I know i can move the axle forward a little bit to help, i just don't want these suckers to stick out super far.

Are you running the stock width axle up front? 65" to WMS i am thinking?

do you have any other pics of your ride besides whats on this thread (like a photobucket account or something)? i'd like to get an idea of how much your tires stick out, so i can try and visualize where an extra 1.5" will put me.. i have a feeling it will be too much...

chadjans
01-20-2009, 11:35 AM
john,
thanks for the insight. i already picked up a ZJ washer bottle..

I am more worried about hitting the lower rear corners on the front end because there is only so much room to trim.

Bring it over to my house. I'll trim it.

LSRGreg
01-20-2009, 12:08 PM
thanks for the offer.. i might just do that when i am ready!
g-

John.. i think i found some pics of yours... let me know if this is yours, and if you are using the stock width axles...

http://www.fp-kites.com/images/Jeep/GSW2K8/Saturday/Resized/GSW%20122%20[1024x768].jpg

JohnBoulderCO
01-20-2009, 12:50 PM
Yep, that's mine on 35x12.5x15 MTR's and 15x8 3.75"BS wheels and stock width axles.

Let Chad cut it for you, he cut David's WJ and it looks nice.

Asphalt Assault
09-04-2009, 11:04 PM
great artile!

where are pics of davids wj?

the bumpers I have seen for the wj are to bulky. TR bumper is nice though! Looks good on yours john. has anyone seen a DIY article on bumpers? I like the fiberglass unit from Iceland Offroad but it is FIBERGLASS. how tough can that be? LOL

thanks all

dp96zj
09-05-2009, 01:27 AM
great artile!

where are pics of davids wj?

the bumpers I have seen for the wj are to bulky. TR bumper is nice though! Looks good on yours john. has anyone seen a DIY article on bumpers? I like the fiberglass unit from Iceland Offroad but it is FIBERGLASS. how tough can that be? LOL

thanks all


do some searching. all of your questions have been answered already in other threads on the forum.

JohnBoulderCO
11-17-2011, 12:36 AM
More cutting. :)6139

JohnBoulderCO
11-17-2011, 12:38 AM
Why stop?6140

JohnBoulderCO
11-17-2011, 12:39 AM
61426141.

They fit. I had a chance to take them on a trail a few weeks ago. :)

No, they don't run in the rear at all, weird angle in the picture. They rub just a tad on the front, under the front fender. More cutting. :)

I don't like the increased sidewall flex, weird feeling when off camber, so I will go to a 17" wheel next summer and get some MTR Kevlars.

This was a free swap 35's for 37's on 15" rims, so I couldn't pass up the chance to see if they would fit. Besides, it gave me a chance to cut more stuff on the Jeep. ;)

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
11-17-2011, 02:28 AM
Did I see you on 8th Ave last night? Following a two-toned XJ.

JohnBoulderCO
11-17-2011, 01:45 PM
Nope, not me.

chadjans
11-20-2011, 10:48 PM
How did the unibody fix go?

Cody
11-21-2011, 05:12 PM
There is a lot of bad ass going on there.

JohnBoulderCO
11-21-2011, 11:00 PM
How did the unibody fix go?
I adjusted the doors, to minimized the gap, drank some beer and said, free bigger tires would make it all better. :)

I'm still going to take it to a frame shop now that all the CO trails are snowed in and see what can be done.

JohnBoulderCO
11-21-2011, 11:01 PM
There is a lot of bad ass going on there.
Thanks. When in doubt, just cut more. :)

BigDaveZJ
03-20-2014, 12:05 AM
Bump to make it easier to move the thread to the build thread forum. Should be some interesting updates coming soon!

JohnBoulderCO
03-20-2014, 12:44 AM
I cut the doors tonight, love my grinder. :) Pics this weekend as I get serious with making the unibody stiff!

JohnBoulderCO
03-20-2014, 01:11 AM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/20/eba7edaz.jpgFront Doorhttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/20/y9a9e4ed.jpgRear Door

JohnBoulderCO
03-20-2014, 01:13 AM
Damn, these smart phones work! Cutting doors to fold up. Need to make room for more cutting to follow. ;)

ArloGuthroJeep
03-20-2014, 12:06 PM
So you're rolling the lip up and then going to do what?!?

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
03-20-2014, 02:23 PM
Seam sealer is your friend.

JohnBoulderCO
03-20-2014, 02:41 PM
Weld flat to bottom of all 4 doors. Cutting out rocker panels next.

TN_WJ
03-20-2014, 11:07 PM
Sub'd

JohnBoulderCO
03-23-2014, 10:23 AM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/23/urapenym.jpg
Bottom of front door welded flat. I cleaned it up a bit, then hit it with the black rattle can.

JohnBoulderCO
03-23-2014, 10:28 AM
Rear door repairhttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/23/9yrevyhe.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
03-23-2014, 10:30 AM
One side donehttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/23/a2ypu5u4.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
03-23-2014, 10:32 AM
Both sides donehttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/23/jyby9a6u.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
03-23-2014, 10:35 AM
Inspired by AgitatedPancake (Greg) and fluxcap (Tyler), the rockers are coming out next weekend and new sliders welded in.

Anyone need some slightly used WJ sliders? :)

BigDaveZJ
03-23-2014, 11:13 AM
The smoke marks on the door panel plastic are high class, I dig it!

Mochisme
03-23-2014, 08:06 PM
Inspired by AgitatedPancake (Greg) and fluxcap (Tyler), the rockers are coming out next weekend and new sliders welded in.

Anyone need some slightly used WJ sliders? :)

Maybe, what are you asking for them & Can you bring them to GSW and install them on my WJ?

JohnBoulderCO
03-30-2014, 01:30 AM
Use a laser to mark where to cut your rockers. A laser makes them straight and horizontal.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/30/9a7amy2u.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/30/subedyjy.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
03-30-2014, 01:36 AM
Cut with the grinder! :) http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/30/y9avu2ej.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/30/vusybagy.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/30/3ypy5a6y.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/30/hyzuhy2e.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
03-30-2014, 01:40 AM
Test fit to make sure everything looks goodhttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/30/8ery3e5y.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/30/sy5azu9a.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
03-30-2014, 01:44 AM
A B and C pillars need 1/8 inch plates to close them up. Ground smooth before welding the slider to them.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/30/yju6ysa6.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/30/yzy6a3ub.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/30/4uza7ama.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
03-30-2014, 01:49 AM
New slider welded to the A B and C pillar plates and along the pinch seams. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/30/setaputa.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/30/y5ejura7.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/30/dududede.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
03-30-2014, 01:54 AM
Need to cap the ends of the slider and add a few internal support "struts" to finish this side off. It was a long day of welding and grinding. Thanks Tyler!

Ted_Z
03-31-2014, 07:43 PM
Needs more triangulation. ;)

JohnBoulderCO
04-20-2014, 12:00 AM
Driver's side done today.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/20/5a3yza7u.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
04-20-2014, 12:01 AM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/20/egusepaz.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
04-20-2014, 12:02 AM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/20/emumejem.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
04-20-2014, 12:05 AM
Tyler welding the slider on.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/20/ny9yveva.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
04-20-2014, 12:07 AM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/20/rysy5e5a.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/20/e9y4utam.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
04-20-2014, 12:09 AM
Lessons learned. Using a laser ensures your cuts from front to back are straight and horizontal. Take the doors off, gives you lots of room to cut, grind and weld. Next up: lots of cross bracing the sliders to the just above Clayton's "frame" stiffeners. Then add a cross member to make every thing stout and "triangulate" the rear Lower Control Arms.

Mtn WJ
04-21-2014, 08:14 AM
That's sweet.

egg
04-21-2014, 02:39 PM
Great ideas especially the laser level! Love it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JohnBoulderCO
04-28-2014, 10:05 PM
Passenger side done. Struts installed.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/29/9a9ytega.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/29/se3ugu8y.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/29/ne6yqy2u.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/29/e4a4unyr.jpg
The rear fender well welded to the slider and a strut.

JohnBoulderCO
04-28-2014, 10:09 PM
Painted, just need to install plastic door cladding. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/29/2ubu9apy.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/29/a5ymegyj.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/29/a3yru5as.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/29/a8a8yzez.jpg

jsteves
04-29-2014, 11:07 AM
New rockers turned out bad ass! Your mini jack stands are....um....cute.

JohnBoulderCO
05-29-2014, 11:11 PM
Cladding installed.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/30/myhyvyta.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/30/syhupyru.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
05-29-2014, 11:14 PM
Cross member for lower control arms.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/30/7y7a3ape.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
05-29-2014, 11:16 PM
Axle side of new LCA, lots of ground clearance.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/30/ta5ubyza.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/30/netu5uha.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
05-29-2014, 11:23 PM
I had the exhaust tucked up tight and routed out the back with a low profile CAT, visible in the pics.
Next up a belly skid and I'm ready for GSW! :)

egg
05-29-2014, 11:25 PM
Do you feel the increased anti squat is worth the increased ground clearance?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

JohnBoulderCO
05-29-2014, 11:32 PM
I have left foot braked and throttled up, but didn't notice much of a difference in the anti-squat, seems neutral, but the increase in ground clearance is very obvious. :)

Having the LCA's triangulated, for a true double triangulated rear suspension, is noticeable when driving around town. You don't get the "tail wag" as you go around corners, it feels very solid and stable.

Mtn WJ
05-30-2014, 02:51 PM
I got a peek at John's and Tyler's projects on Sunday. Damn, good stuff. Tyler's bumper is pretty sweet and I like the integrated rock sliders on John's.

I agree on the double triangulation of the rear and how great it drives. I also think that is why John is not getting any additional squat because the upper arms are keeping the axle from rotating.

Nice work.

fluxcap
05-30-2014, 10:34 PM
Axle and frame end of LCA'S were raised a similar amount and are 7" longer.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

JohnBoulderCO
06-01-2014, 03:58 PM
Skid plate fabricated and installed.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/02/ranenu7a.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/02/qe6avypu.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/02/yne7edeq.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/02/2ahu8usa.jpg

TN_WJ
06-01-2014, 04:15 PM
Looks great John. Did you have to change anything with the lower link brackets on the axle?

JohnBoulderCO
06-02-2014, 08:41 AM
Thanks! Yes, new tabs were installed on the rear axle.
The tabs are flush with the bottom of the axle and angle "in" to match the body side LCA tab angles, on the new cross member. The new LCAs are full width on the axle side and 8" apart (inside measurement) on the cross member to clear the drive-shaft. Gives it some nice triangulation. :)

JohnBoulderCO
06-08-2014, 08:02 PM
Rear bumper needed a little work to keep the hatch from hitting it. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/09/ame8uqy7.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
06-10-2014, 11:47 PM
I have been driving it around a little more and it feels really tight and solid. Hopefully this will cure my Lambo door syndrome. If not it's Interior cage time! :)

BlackDiamondBound
06-11-2014, 09:35 PM
wow, nice work! looks real clean. how are the upper arms attached to the unibody side, the old claytons brackets?

the rear ds wont hit the rear cross member at all?

JohnBoulderCO
06-12-2014, 01:54 AM
Yes upper arms attach to Clayton's original UCA mounts on body . Drive shaft does not hit cross member tested at full drop and verified on first run at GSW today

JohnBoulderCO
06-13-2014, 08:02 AM
Exit of Pritchett Canyon everything worked great! http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/13/uhupesyb.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
06-28-2014, 03:50 PM
Radiator support got pushed up a good 1" and I couldn't close the hood.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/29/8uvudeju.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
06-28-2014, 03:51 PM
Doing some fixing.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/29/u2ynubyb.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/29/ajugy9e6.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
06-29-2014, 11:21 PM
All fixed up, much more stout. :)http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/30/a3ejy5yp.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/30/ajamyre2.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/30/jy6ynu8y.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/30/7ahaza9y.jpg

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
06-30-2014, 10:06 AM
Looking good John!

TN_WJ
06-30-2014, 10:11 AM
Nice work. I'm probably due for this repair myself

JohnBoulderCO
06-30-2014, 08:10 PM
Thanks guys, this should keep the front straight. :)

Ted_Z
06-30-2014, 10:06 PM
Now if you could just plate your B-pillars with radiator supports you'd have something!

JohnBoulderCO
06-30-2014, 10:19 PM
That's part of the upcoming winter project, some internal supports!

brendan3216
07-24-2014, 11:36 PM
Bump, any new progress?

JohnBoulderCO
11-10-2015, 04:30 PM
My Lambo doors keep getting worse. When shut, the top of the doors have more than an inch gap between the weather stripping in places. It's time to once again straighten the B-pillars and build a cage to keep them in place.


First thing, remove the headliner and all the plastic trim pieces from the A-pillar to the D-pillar. It's pretty easy, just be patient with all the little clips and screws.
7294

I wasn't surprised to see that both of the B-pillars and C-pillars are twisted and the metal is cracked in several places.
72957296

Straightened up the B-pillars, using Tyler's winch.
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jsteves
11-10-2015, 04:38 PM
So that's what a winch is for...

BigDaveZJ
11-10-2015, 04:38 PM
Holy cow, I thought my unibody was jacked, nowhere close to that bad!

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
11-10-2015, 05:23 PM
Wow. that thing is tweaked!

Ted_Z
11-10-2015, 06:57 PM
That's part of the upcoming winter project, some internal supports! well 17 months later...
Glad to see the cage going in. Are you still planning the exo/internal hybrid?

JohnBoulderCO
11-10-2015, 07:25 PM
Skipped a winter! 😃 Yes, internal/exo hybrid. There is no room to run internal crosses between B pillars or C pillars due to the seat locations.

Decided to borrow Agitated Pancake's idea of having a secondary B pillar.

BigDaveZJ
11-10-2015, 07:34 PM
Sounds like we're thinking about the same basic cage . . . looks like you'll be getting started on yours before me though. I do plan to run something internal on the C, and maybe the B if I can squeeze it in though.

JohnBoulderCO
11-17-2015, 07:24 PM
A few more pics. The primary B-pillar support, which will directly tie into the B-pillar and the secondary B-pillar support which will have the internal cross bracing side to side.
729973007298

Same idea for the C-Pillar.
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Tie it together as a halo on the roof. First test piece, it lines up nicely. It will look like a Nissan Xterra roof rack, but will have lots of cross bracing. Triangulation! ;)
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ELLLLLIOTTTTT
11-17-2015, 07:58 PM
Triangulation! ;)


Don't worry, I'm sure Chad will chime in if you leave any nodes unsupported.

JohnBoulderCO
11-23-2015, 12:10 PM
Plated the B-pillar and C-pillar. Then tacked the tubes in their final location.

730773087309

Going to do a seat clearance check, before burning them in and starting on the driver's side. Then everything gets tied together.

K2
11-23-2015, 12:52 PM
John, that is coming along great. Two OT things, I can't a hold of Tyler, does he still need a speedo gear? And do you have info on your 231 swap, my 247 is crap and I want to use the 231 from my ZJ? I am going to bug Ted too since he is a tcase guru.

JohnBoulderCO
11-23-2015, 01:07 PM
Thanks Ken!

Tyler was looking for a speedo gear with a higher tooth count, I would double check with him on what tooth count he currently has.

T-case Reader's digest version: You need to move your input shaft from the 247 to the 231. Then you need to modify the 231 shift plate to be like the 247. Easy way is to cut the 247 plate and weld to the 231 plate, making sure you can get from 2Hi to 4LO (full motion with out hitting the case). Move your T-case shift cable to the lower position in the mounting bracket by the T-case.

If you have stock axles with the tone rings, your speedo will be fine. When you swap axles and loose ALL your tone rings, you need to tap the 231 and run a signal to the CAB module. If you swap just one axle, there are ways to make one set of tone rings work. There are write ups on MC on how to do all this.

BigDaveZJ
11-23-2015, 01:49 PM
I have a ton of 231 parts if you need anything as well. Don't think there's enough for a complete case, but have almost 2 cases worth of parts.

John, are you going to make any attempt to put the interior back in?

JohnBoulderCO
11-23-2015, 02:19 PM
Dave, plan is to get the head liner back in before the internal bracing. Keeping all the seats. The seat belts remain in the stock locations, so I will install as much plastic pieces as I can.

K2
11-23-2015, 03:26 PM
Thanks Ken!

Tyler was looking for a speedo gear with a higher tooth count, I would double check with him on what tooth count he currently has.

T-case Reader's digest version: You need to move your input shaft from the 247 to the 231. Then you need to modify the 231 shift plate to be like the 247. Easy way is to cut the 247 plate and weld to the 231 plate, making sure you can get from 2Hi to 4LO (full motion with out hitting the case). Move your T-case shift cable to the lower position in the mounting bracket by the T-case.

If you have stock axles with the tone rings, your speedo will be fine. When you swap axles and loose ALL your tone rings, you need to tap the 231 and run a signal to the CAB module. If you swap just one axle, there are ways to make one set of tone rings work. There are write ups on MC on how to do all this.

I tried text and pm but he has not responded, I have a 36, he was looking for a 40 I think. If the 36 is closer and better it's his. Do you need a different shift lever in side? I read a quick bit about stop tabs in the shifter itself, but the only other one is the 242. Thank you.

fluxcap
11-23-2015, 07:57 PM
Sorry I didn't reply sooner. I got a 40 tooth from a 1 transmission.

FYI there are 2 gear cuts for the planetary so make sure the 231 you use has the newer cut to match the wj input.

K2
11-24-2015, 01:23 AM
Sorry I didn't reply sooner. I got a 40 tooth from a 1 transmission.

FYI there are 2 gear cuts for the planetary so make sure the 231 you use has the newer cut to match the wj input.

Cool, glad you got what you needed! Thanks for the additional info.

ArloGuthroJeep
11-28-2015, 06:54 PM
Wow, nice work John. How much heavier is your WJ going to be after all is said and done?

fluxcap
11-29-2015, 12:00 AM
My guess is 350 pounds

JohnBoulderCO
12-03-2015, 02:12 PM
1.75" diameter x .120" wall = 50.3 lbs for a 24 foot stick of tube. We can count up the sticks used - scrap + gussets plates etc.

When I last weighed the Jeep, it weighed 5540 lbs fully loaded, not counting me.

JohnBoulderCO
12-07-2015, 05:00 PM
Passenger side is all done.
B-Pillar(s)
73127313

C-Pillar(s)
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Driver's side will get the same treatment, then onto the cross bracing.

Ken L
12-07-2015, 10:10 PM
Looks good, John!

Stealth Crawler ZJ
12-10-2015, 09:22 PM
...I think you might need a few more gussets!
Are you tying it into the "frame-rail"?

JohnBoulderCO
12-11-2015, 12:31 PM
There are 5 gussets on the B-pillar! :) Yes, the B-pillar will be tied into the "frame-rail" and slider, underneath.

Stealth Crawler ZJ
12-11-2015, 01:31 PM
There are 5 gussets on the B-pillar! :) .

Just messing with ya! 😬

JohnBoulderCO
12-11-2015, 04:20 PM
Just messing with ya! 😬

I know. :D

JohnBoulderCO
01-24-2016, 09:25 PM
Put the headliner back in. C-Pillar cross pieces tacked in. Rear seats still fit and so does a 35 spare.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160125/8a8772fd892594af691d31b0de81caeb.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160125/108d81b561f2add63a50ca35456a73d4.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160125/0b7c1c28c6b7a5a56ac766bf28ec403a.jpg

JohnBoulderCO
01-24-2016, 09:33 PM
Spent a lot of time sketching up roof options. How to tie together 8 tubes poking though the roof. I could have done traditional "X's" with tubes running from side to side....but something simple and strong seemed the obvious choice.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160125/b26a7911ca8a5a5a4173a5ec0554b855.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160125/573da5cb88054edc6981d794fed07710.jpg

Ted_Z
01-25-2016, 10:56 AM
I hate spiders.

jsteves
01-25-2016, 11:05 AM
That came together pretty damn well!!

JohnBoulderCO
01-25-2016, 11:09 AM
Thanks!

Tyler said it was a bitch to weld, laying on top of the roof.

I modeled it up in CAD so we knew the angles, that helped a lot and having a template for the spider butt.

I like that it's simple and unique at the same time.

Kraqa
01-25-2016, 07:50 PM
what was the though behind so many internal vertical supports? not the typical a, b, c, d pillar's.

JohnBoulderCO
01-25-2016, 09:09 PM
The goal was to save the unibody. My B and C are cracked, bent and falling apart. My doors don't close well. I wanted tube as close as I could to re-enforce the pillars with lots of bracing. You can't run tube straight across between the pillars because of the front seats and rear seats so secondary B pillars and C pillars were put in. I got the idea from Agitated Pancake.

bentwrench
01-26-2016, 12:34 PM
That cage is coming out great! I really need to get started on mine.i like how you tied into the pillars, i know the unibody isnt much but it makes sense to me to add to it with a cage.

Kraqa
01-26-2016, 01:00 PM
The goal was to save the unibody. My B and C are cracked, bent and falling apart. My doors don't close well. I wanted tube as close as I could to re-enforce the pillars with lots of bracing. You can't run tube straight across between the pillars because of the front seats and rear seats so secondary B pillars and C pillars were put in. I got the idea from Agitated Pancake.


it looks real good. its definitely going to help with the twisting and flex of the unibody. its just cool to see the different approaches. I am mapping out my cage and i have a totally different plan.......its cool to see how we can both come to very different conclusions is all.

JohnBoulderCO
01-26-2016, 11:51 PM
Yep, I think each person's cage is addressing their particular need, which leads to the various designs. Each one is unique and cool !

Ted_Z
01-27-2016, 01:37 PM
Yep, I think each person's cage is addressing their particular need, which leads to the various designs. Each one is unique and cool ! In your case your need to express your affection for spiders and failing B-pillars. Keep up the good work, less than two months to EJS.

JohnBoulderCO
01-28-2016, 11:28 PM
Gave my spider a second coat of black paint tonight

Ted_Z
01-29-2016, 12:13 PM
Spooky! Did you pull your carpet when you welded the interior bits? What are you doing for the A pillars?

JohnBoulderCO
01-29-2016, 12:44 PM
Yes, moved the carpet out of the way, will use a welding blanket to protect the headliner. Will add D-Pillar braces for added rigidity. No plan for A-Pillars at this time.

JohnBoulderCO
03-02-2016, 10:31 AM
Got the roof painted and sealed up.

jsteves
03-02-2016, 10:31 AM
Nice!


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JohnBoulderCO
03-02-2016, 10:35 AM
Painted the inside. Then installed the seats, plastic trim and carpet.

LSRGreg
03-02-2016, 12:43 PM
Looks awesome! Nicely done!

BigDaveZJ
03-02-2016, 12:45 PM
The interior has turned out better than I thought it was going to, well done guys!

JohnBoulderCO
03-02-2016, 12:51 PM
Thanks!

dubj
03-02-2016, 04:05 PM
Nice job! Turned out great

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Tuzmaster
02-06-2017, 11:55 PM
How much room is there left on the back seat? WJ aren't known foe the rear leg room and putting a cage in would decrease it even more it seems. Is this your DD?

fluxcap
02-07-2017, 10:12 AM
How much room is there left on the back seat? WJ aren't known foe the rear leg room and putting a cage in would decrease it even more it seems. Is this your DD?
Not a daily. I weigh 360 and am 6'2" and rode in the back seat.


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JohnBoulderCO
06-27-2017, 10:20 PM
Tried 37's once again at GSW 2017. Broke a stub shaft and 2 hubs. I'm convinced that 37's are the Devil's bastard tire. Too big for 1/2 tons too small for 1 tons. I'm back on 35's and I promise to be happy until i decide (if ever) to go 1 tons.


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Kraqa
07-12-2017, 06:40 PM
i ran 37's with d60's no problem with ground clearance.

tjZ06
09-09-2019, 03:56 PM
Would you say anybody wheeling a WJ on 35"s is going to end up with major unibody problems? I imagine more "mild" solutions like the unibody stiffeners, well tied-in sliders etc. just aren't going to be enough? I'm looking to do a much more "expedition" type build, but it will get flexed out when needed.

Thanks,
TJ

BigDaveZJ
09-09-2019, 04:16 PM
Depends on how hard and long you wheel it. John's been wheeling his dub for close to 20 years. I think the key is to get all of the reinforcements in place BEFORE you start beating on it. My ZJ's unibody is in similar conditions to John's, but I have a cherry 5.9 that I will be moving everything over to, AFTER I spend a lot of time with a welder and some steel reinforcing the crap out of it. Trying to reinforce everything once it's already tweaked doesn't fix anything, it just prevents it from getting worse.

With a good long arm set up like Clatyon's, suspension flex won't lead to too much damage. Dropping the entire vehicle onto a rock will. Even with sliders. On the 5.9 I'm going to build, my plan is unibody reinforcement the entire length of the vehicle with cut out rockers tied in to the unibody reinforcement as well as the Clayton "subframe." I have not yet decided if I will build a cage off of all of that or not, but the best time do it is BEFORE things get tweaked.

tjZ06
09-09-2019, 07:21 PM
Depends on how hard and long you wheel it. John's been wheeling his dub for close to 20 years. I think the key is to get all of the reinforcements in place BEFORE you start beating on it. My ZJ's unibody is in similar conditions to John's, but I have a cherry 5.9 that I will be moving everything over to, AFTER I spend a lot of time with a welder and some steel reinforcing the crap out of it. Trying to reinforce everything once it's already tweaked doesn't fix anything, it just prevents it from getting worse.

With a good long arm set up like Clatyon's, suspension flex won't lead to too much damage. Dropping the entire vehicle onto a rock will. Even with sliders. On the 5.9 I'm going to build, my plan is unibody reinforcement the entire length of the vehicle with cut out rockers tied in to the unibody reinforcement as well as the Clayton "subframe." I have not yet decided if I will build a cage off of all of that or not, but the best time do it is BEFORE things get tweaked.

Makes sense. I have a very clean/nice WJ that I'm going to build up a bit more than the current setup (stock D30/44A with VariLoks, stock 247 QuadraDrive, IRO 4" Rock-Link front long-arm but stock rear arms w/ spacer, sliders, etc.). The plan is D44s front and back (ECGS front, haven't decided on just building the stock rear vs. ECGS) with ARBs, convert rear to long-arm (was just going to use IRO's stuff since that's what I have so far), Notch Customs WMax flares and hope I can clear a 35" at or near the current lift (I don't want to go crazy tall). It'll mostly be used as an expedition rig, not a "hardcore" wheeler, but the Rubicon trail is on the list. I know stock JLs are running the Rubi on 32-33"s and it's been "dumbed down" and I'm not above taking the easy lines and bypasses.

Like you said, I want to address things BEFORE they get bad. There's not a ton out there for WJ frame stiffeners for the WJ:

IRO has this "center" section: https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/wj-unibody-frame-stiffeners-center-section.html
Trail Forged has Front, Rear and Rear Long Kits: https://trailforged.com/product/wj-frame-stiffeners (https://trailforged.com/product/wj-frame-stiffeners/)


It would seem the combo of TF's front and rear (long or short depending on bumper and upper rear shock mount choices) with IRO's center section and the Kevin's sliders I already have would help a ton. But is it enough to run something like a 315/75-16 (roughly 34.6x12.4") over the long-term on an "expedition" build that will be a bit on the heavy side (roof rack, rooftop tent - yes, I'm going to be one of "those guys") etc?

-TJ

BigDaveZJ
09-09-2019, 07:48 PM
Sounds like you're on the right track. IRO makes some good stuff. I was at their shop talking to Darrick earlier this year and he said they're working on full length stiffeners, so keep an eye out for those. I'm waiting for him to finish up the ZJ ones. Darrick has put a lot into the equipment in his shop too to help with that stuff. They can load up 2 sheets of steel when they leave for the day and come back the next morning to a bunch of sweet parts all laser cut. The ones I bought (not IRO) for the rear of my current ZJ were done by hand with a plasma and the fit was garbage. Looking forward to see what Darrick and his guys come up with.

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tjZ06
09-09-2019, 08:15 PM
Sounds like you're on the right track. IRO makes some good stuff. I was at their shop talking to Darrick earlier this year and he said they're working on full length stiffeners, so keep an eye out for those. I'm waiting for him to finish up the ZJ ones. Darrick has put a lot into the equipment in his shop too to help with that stuff. They can load up 2 sheets of steel when they leave for the day and come back the next morning to a bunch of sweet parts all laser cut. The ones I bought (not IRO) for the rear of my current ZJ were done by hand with a plasma and the fit was garbage. Looking forward to see what Darrick and his guys come up with.

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Thanks, good info. I might reach out to them about the ETA on the full-length version. My WJ was super clean and had never been wheeled, so I think the unibody is in great shape. I want to take care of it before I start doing much wheeling. I'm running a mild trail this weekend (rated for stock 4wds) but that's about all I want to do before I get some bracing in.

-TJ