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View Full Version : CLAYTON LONG ARM INSTALL ??'S



OHIOZJ
04-10-2006, 12:03 PM
ok, so im in the middle of installing my clayton arms and of course cant call them to ask questions because they are at ejs in moab till next week.

so what my problem is:
i have the whole subframe welded on. last night i started taking off the old arms and putting the new ones on. well, when i got the arms in the mail they only came with 6 of the larger greasable bolts, and 4 of the little ones. i put one of the front lowers on last night and used 2 of the parger bolts and realized i obviously wouldnt have enough for the front and rear. so am i supposed to reuse some of the old bolts for the lower arms? i cant find anything in the instructions that says which to use. if not i guess they just didnt send me the correct amount.

thanks

OverkillZJ
04-10-2006, 12:05 PM
Yes, reuse the old ones. The only new bolts you will use are the greasable john joint bolts.

OHIOZJ
04-10-2006, 12:12 PM
thanks .....

OHIOZJ
04-10-2006, 02:04 PM
ok, one more quick question. is there anything wrong with running just one of the uppers on the front instead of both? i have seen guys do it but not specifically on the clayton kit......

shayzj
04-10-2006, 02:22 PM
Put them both on. That is what Clayton will tell you. If it wasn't part of the kit then why would he include it. You will have plenty of flex believe me.

Shay

OverkillZJ
04-10-2006, 02:39 PM
I'll only be running one upper this time around, but it's attaching to a custom truss on a front 60, and it's a trail only rig. I wouldn't do it on the stock setup, too much stress on one bracket.

I'm doing it because I'm running 16" coilovers and that will be a limiting point, with stock style springs / shocks, you'll still reach full flex with both uppers, I promise:

http://www.fccsonline.com/pic/gotflex.jpg

Man was that long ago...

OverkillZJ
04-10-2006, 02:41 PM
To add: Claytons kit works well with two uppers because of the amount of give the bushings at the axle end he uses allow. Other kits with the similar radius style which use poly/heims etc tend to bind / twist tubes. I've never seen this happen on Claytons kits.

JohnBoulderCO
04-10-2006, 03:17 PM
Use both uppers, safety, and it doesn't affect flex. Another pic (My Avatar) shows the flex with both uppers.

nathaniel
04-11-2006, 01:54 AM
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid203/p18f144fc93ba276de868377c57dbc58b/ef9f72a4.jpgHe uses 2 for safety and a little added on road stability. As far as flex it will limit it but not all that much. A 3 link flexs a good 6"+ more but its not usually usefull flex no spring pressure on the ground equals very little gain in traction. A good example is Kevins 3 link front Easily flexs 37" tires below the rocker. Now find a pic of any of claytons doing the same. BTW I've installed and wheeled both and they both have their problems. most will agree that the only way to be happy with your suspension is to design it yourself and redeisgn it at least once.

that being said no of this has to do with your install go with recommended 4 link since you are just as likely to spin a tube with a 3 link as twist one with a 4 link

AprilzWarrior
04-13-2006, 01:11 AM
A good example is Kevins 3 link front Easily flexs 37" tires below the rocker. Now find a pic of any of claytons doing the same.

Bwahaahahaha

:smt051
http://www.claytonoffroad.com/get.doc.aspx?qs=image&mode=cs-gallery-fullsize&image=/gallery/customer.Leipold.Jack/003.jpg&desc=Jack%20Leipold%20-%202004%20Jeep%20Wrangler%20TJ%20Rubicon

I think that SURPASS' the rockers... would you say ? AND on 37"s

Another... UBER FLEX...
http://www.claytonoffroad.com/get.doc.aspx?qs=image&mode=cs-gallery-fullsize&image=/gallery/customer.Cleary.Dave/001.gif&desc=Dave%20Cleary%20-%201998%20Jeep%20Wrangler%20TJ


I had to make a point.

AW:smt040

96ZJ
04-13-2006, 09:17 AM
Bwahaahahaha

:smt051
http://www.claytonoffroad.com/get.doc.aspx?qs=image&mode=cs-gallery-fullsize&image=/gallery/customer.Leipold.Jack/003.jpg&desc=Jack%20Leipold%20-%202004%20Jeep%20Wrangler%20TJ%20Rubicon

I think that SURPASS' the rockers... would you say ? AND on 37"s

Another... UBER FLEX...
http://www.claytonoffroad.com/get.doc.aspx?qs=image&mode=cs-gallery-fullsize&image=/gallery/customer.Cleary.Dave/001.gif&desc=Dave%20Cleary%20-%201998%20Jeep%20Wrangler%20TJ


I had to make a point.

AW:smt040

NO WAY! That first pic is of a friend of mine. He went from a stock Rubi to having it rolled onto the roof in under a year. Crazy guy. He stepped down from the 37's though.

Swamp boy
04-13-2006, 09:40 AM
Well here is a TJ dropping 33's under the rails and it only has an RE 4.5:D

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y88/Lrobe22/Delta%204x4/IMG_0750.jpg

:D

OHIOZJ
04-13-2006, 10:06 AM
thanks for all the help. its starting to come together. i got the front completely finished. now on to the rear......

just in case you want to check it out....
http://forum.tkotrailriders.com/viewtopic.php?t=922

Cue-Ball
04-13-2006, 11:15 AM
thanks for all the help. its starting to come together. i got the front completely finished. now on to the rear......

just in case you want to check it out....
http://forum.tkotrailriders.com/viewtopic.php?t=922

Great write-up

DJJordache
04-13-2006, 12:48 PM
thanks for all the help. its starting to come together. i got the front completely finished. now on to the rear......

just in case you want to check it out....
http://forum.tkotrailriders.com/viewtopic.php?t=922

wow man BIG THANKS for the writeup so far. I kinda felt intimidated on installing a longarm system when ever I get some more $$$, but actually seeing it step by step with before and after pics is great! thanks for taking your time to get lots of pics during the process! you should post this in our writeup section it would be a great resource to those who are thinkin about moving to longarms. cant wait to see more:D

OHIOZJ
04-13-2006, 12:56 PM
thanks for all the positive feedback.

it has been a little difficult for me doing it in the driveway with no help and no compressor. i had to drive it to a friends house to get the brackets welded on. other than that, its all been done in my driveway. and beleive it or not i couldnt get one of the arms off because the bolt was too tight so i got one side on and had to drive it to work one day with one long arm on the pass side and one short arm on the drivers side........ it felt kind of weird on the road, but i made it to work and back. on the way home i stopped off at a mechanics and they busted the botls loose that i needed and then i drove it home.
but both fronts are on now and i am going to test flex the front, put on some longer brake lines, swap in a r.e. track bar, then start on the rear.

OHIOZJ
04-13-2006, 12:59 PM
whats really cool about the clayton kit is you can do it a little at a time and not have alot of down time for your rig.

one day i put the crossmember on
then a few weeks later when i had some more time we finally got the brackets welded
then a few weeks later i finally got the front arms on.
now the hardest part i think is yet to come, tearing out the rear axle and taking it to get the truss welded on.
hopefully i can get that done in one weekend

Cue-Ball
04-13-2006, 02:01 PM
I agree the write up should be in our write up section also. The fact that you are doing it all in the driveway with hand tools is GREAT!!!

I would also be sending this write up over to Adam and Clayton I am sure they would love the feedback from someone doing it in the drive way with minimal tools.

GREAT JOB!!!!!!:smt038 :smt038

nathaniel
04-13-2006, 06:46 PM
Apples and oranges wranglers dont count and it needs to be stuffed all the way on one side and drooped on the other.

Not that it matters anyway. You can get nearly as much but you do put a lot of strain on the bushings. And IMO claytons is the best bolt on kit available anyway.


NO WAY! That first pic is of a friend of mine. He went from a stock Rubi to having it rolled onto the roof in under a year. Crazy guy. He stepped down from the 37's though.

Cue-Ball
04-13-2006, 06:48 PM
And IMO claytons is the best bolt on kit available anyway.

Claytons is NOT a bolt on kit!!

OHIOZJ
04-13-2006, 07:23 PM
my opinion of a bolt on kit implies it can be bolted on and un-bolted......

claytons kits requires cutting off old stuff and welding on new stuff. so once your past a certain point, theres no going back to what you had. so i definitely do not think its a bolt on kit.

OverkillZJ
04-13-2006, 09:27 PM
He meant "pre fabbed, pre made, ready for installation." Not actual "bolt on"

Bolt on long arms shouldn't have been produced in the first place, at least one a single one that has hit the market for our unibodies yet.

AprilzWarrior
04-14-2006, 12:20 AM
hey, is it my computer only or is Clayton site messed up?

its you... His site works perfectly.



AW

OHIOZJ
04-14-2006, 04:19 PM
ok, let me test this.....

http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/8661/dscn41746nw.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

thats a little bit of short arm flex for ya...
i am taking halfway-thru-longarms-on-just-the-front flex shots this weekend.

OHIOZJ
04-20-2006, 03:07 PM
ok - progress has been slow this week. i had to change a ball joint and now i discovered a bad motor mount that needs changed before next weekend.

a few more questions...... or maybe i just need a different opinion.

i swapped out my stock track bar for a R.E. one off a cherokee. since then it has had alot more play in the steering. so i checked it out and the bolt on the axle end has alot of movement in it, not because its not tightened. so thats affecting my ride quality obviously. so i might put the stock tb back on for now.

but before i discovered that i took it to tire discounters to have it aligned and they said they couldnt do it. so where do you guys go to get a good 4wheel alignment? i am not sure i want to try and do it myself - i would rather a professional take care of it. i know i should wait till i get the rear on before i do get it aligned. . . and the reason i dont is because i have a wheeling trip planned for next weekend and wasnt going to be able to get the rears on in time. and its a 2 hour drive away so i wanted to at least get the fornt end all dialed in nice and straight so it didnt eat up my tires driving there and back

nate
04-20-2006, 03:35 PM
Just adjust the toe and you'll be all set.

DCHZJ
04-20-2006, 03:36 PM
First off, nice writeup. Second get the JKS adjustable track bar that is is great. I compaired it to my old adjustable is it is huge. Totaly worth the cash.

AprilzWarrior
04-20-2006, 10:33 PM
my opinion of a bolt on kit implies it can be bolted on and un-bolted......

claytons kits requires cutting off old stuff and welding on new stuff. so once your past a certain point, theres no going back to what you had. so i definitely do not think its a bolt on kit.



REs kit requires all the lower control arm mounts to be cut off !


AW

nate
04-21-2006, 12:59 AM
I don't know of any long arm kit that you can keep the stock mounts. Not sure why you'd want to anyhow?

AprilzWarrior
04-21-2006, 11:09 AM
I don't know of any long arm kit that you can keep the stock mounts. Not sure why you'd want to anyhow?

I agree, but was adding the fact that RE's is "bolt on" BUT requires vital parts to be removed inorder to do so. SO whats the point really of having a "bolt on" kit ? Sorta mute point.


AW:smt023

JeepinHank
04-21-2006, 12:02 PM
I agree, but was adding the fact that RE's is "bolt on" BUT requires vital parts to be removed inorder to do so. SO whats the point really of having a "bolt on" kit ? Sorta mute point.


AW:smt023

Easier to swap over to another vehicle after you roll the first one you install it on??? :D

Sudz
04-22-2006, 10:36 AM
i had to change a ball joint and now i discovered a bad motor mount
while you're under there, take a quick look at the steering box mounting tabs and check closely for hairline cracks...

OHIOZJ
04-26-2006, 10:30 AM
ok, last question (at least i hope):

when welding the rear truss on the axle does it go vertical in relation to the ground? or does it get welded on parallel to the diff cover?
if the pinion is pointed up slightly the diff. cover would be pointed slightly downward toward the rear of the vehicle. so do i need to make sure the truss is running parallel in relation to that or not? obviously the arms are adjustable so it could go either way i guess.......

nate
04-26-2006, 08:24 PM
I put mine up vertical in realation to the ground. Otherwise the truss would be hitting the gas tank really hard!

Depending on how much lift your running, the pinion will be more than "slightly up". Mine is like 18 or 19*

Jim311
04-26-2006, 08:40 PM
Parallel to the diff cover? WTF?

EMTimZJ
04-26-2006, 09:23 PM
Parallel to the diff cover? WTF?

I think he means parallel to the plane of the diff cover mounting surface.

Either way it makes sense to set your pinion angle and then weld the truss perpendicular to the plane of the coil perches.

-Tim

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
04-26-2006, 11:46 PM
whats with the cow catcher on the front diff? :smt025

OHIOZJ
04-27-2006, 09:39 AM
"whats with the cow catcher on the front diff? "

you can never have too much protection....

and yea EMTim - thats what i was talking about. thanks

Sudz
04-27-2006, 10:54 AM
I put mine up vertical in realation to the ground. Otherwise the truss would be hitting the gas tank really hard!

Depending on how much lift your running, the pinion will be more than "slightly up". Mine is like 18 or 19*
Oops, I guess I screwed up...


Rear Arms Installation Procedures

25. Next line the truss up parallel to the differential cover-mount

website instructions (http://www.claytonoffroad.com/index.aspx?sdr=/get.doc.aspx%3Fqs=XML%26s=/hai/manual.zj.HAZJ4S%26t=tech.article.2%26h=chapter.ma in.tech.articles)

i guess i'll find out next weekend when i slip the 8.8 under there - :punish:

AprilzWarrior
05-01-2006, 12:06 AM
Easier to swap over to another vehicle after you roll the first one you install it on??? :D

ok so your saying that RE has a clearly UNFAIR re-sale value ?


:smt101 :D

nate
05-01-2006, 12:26 AM
Maybe for Clayon's kit you need to put the truss in line with the face of the diff. If I did that with my setup, I'd be slamming HARD into the gas tank.

StinkoMan20X6_
05-27-2006, 04:03 AM
I followed the instructions and lined mine up parallel with the diff. cover and it hits nothing. The upper arms hit the body long before the rear truss hits anything. It goes up beyond the gas tank and misses it by a lot. How far back have you guys pushed back your rear axle?

JeepinHank
05-30-2006, 08:41 AM
I think I pushed my rear axle back about 1.5"
Not much, but it does get kinda close to the gas tank skid.

OverkillZJ
05-30-2006, 08:52 AM
My axle was pushed back more than 2" from stock, cleared the skid.