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DCHZJ
04-03-2006, 01:46 PM
Review of Delta Current Controlís http://www.dccontrol.com (http://www.dccontrol.com/) Taurus Fan Controller



So one very hot day I noticed my temp in the ZJ start to rise. So I took a look at the Mechanical fan and the clutch was almost seized (I could barely move it). So I thought about replacing the clutch, but after about 30 seconds I thought about doing an electrical fan swap and naturally a Taurus fan was on the list to buy. That was the easy part.
Now I need a way for this to turn on the fan when the ZJ required it. I looked at several options including adding switches and a solenoid. I looked at some cheap (under $40) kits and nothing really what I wanted. I wanted something that I could hook up and not look at again. Then I was looking on another Forum and found Delta Current Control.
What is this? Well simply put this is a solid state (no moving parts) electrical fan controller designed for the Taurus fan. So I contacted DCControl and got some information and bought one.
I bought the FK35 Series Kit. This comes with the Controller and all the wires/ connectors required to hook this up.
Following the installation instructions that comes with the kit (Can be downloaded to) Tip: Make sure you use the ground and the High speed on the Taurus fan; you do not need the low speed. I hooked everything up and tried it out. It worked perfectly.
The Controller does not simply switch the fan on and away you go, no it monitors the heat of the Radiator (you need to install the provided sensor) and adjust the fan speed accordingly. Since the fan comes on gradually there is no voltage spikes (Taurus fans spike at around 80 amps when switched on and drop to around 30 amps when running) to worry about. When the ZJ is warming, up the fan does not come on. The controller also adjusts the speed of the fan to what it needs, so it runs quiet most of the time.
If youíre running AC, it does have a wire that you can run to your AC and it will switch the fan on full speed to help with that. You can also install a switch inline to the 12V power to kill the fan completely for water crossings and so forth.
The Fan controller can also be adjusted for turn on a different temperatures ranging from 148-212 degrees. This is controlled by a series of jumpers. Default it is set to 180 Degrees.
One other feature it does have is if you set the 12V power (small yellow wire) to a 12V Battery connection it will run for a few minutes after you shut your engine off to cool the ZJ down (like most modern cars).
Basically the unit is a hunk of aluminum with a solid state circuitry inside that is dumped in epoxy, comes complete with all wiring and enough for most ZJís for $110 bucks.
Once hooked up and your temp jumper set, you will forget it is there.
Final Notes.
So after a year of being hooked up to my ZJ and in both East Coast heat and humidity and in Eastern Canada during the winter I can say this is an excellent product and I would recommend this to anyone. I have driven about 15,000-20,000 miles with this hooked up and with the AC blasting, and with the damn automatic heater/ac controls running (turns the ac on when it wants it seems) both the fan and the controller has held up well. Wheeling and overheating are now gone for me, my ZJ has a 5.2 and when I did have a mechanical fan it got way to hot, now I do not have this issue..
For the price and after looking at a do it yourself option, I have zero regrets in spending this money and it was one of the best mods I have ever done to any vehicle, plus it cost just a little under $40 more than the DIY option.
Hey you get a unit that has multiple temp setting, can be set to turn on with the AC, can be set to run once you turn off the ignition, has no moving parts and comes with everything you need to hook it up for just $110. Perfect.
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/308886/fullsize/CRW_7487.jpg

OverkillZJ
04-06-2006, 09:03 PM
I saw this in person, I'm one of those that usually make fun of "kits" - but after seeing how simple and well built this thing is, I'm ordering mine up right now for the buggy :D

Now I just have to find the darn fan... hmmmm...

nate
04-07-2006, 12:06 AM
Sounds just like the controller I have from Flex a lite. Was like $75 from Summit Racing.

Cue-Ball
04-07-2006, 12:12 AM
I like it, I will be adding this to my list!!!

OverkillZJ
04-07-2006, 12:16 AM
Sounds just like the controller I have from Flex a lite. Was like $75 from Summit Racing.

Did it include pre terminated wiring loom and the sensor?

ILikeMud
04-07-2006, 12:17 AM
Wow cool.
Sound like it'll make the efan swap even easier.

Cue-Ball
04-07-2006, 12:22 AM
Now if they were REALLY smart they would package it with a Taurs fan, hmmm maybe that's how I can get some extra $$$ hit the junk yards get a bunch of fans and then make up my own package deal.

Yea as if I have even got the time for that.

OverkillZJ
04-07-2006, 12:26 AM
They make it integrated with a taurus fan, but its over $350. I just found a junkayrd fan shipped for $32, we'll see if it works LOL.

DCHZJ
04-07-2006, 01:09 AM
Sounds just like the controller I have from Flex a lite. Was like $75 from Summit Racing.

Not the same thing at all.
That is basically a sensor box that switches the fan on (high or low depending on the wire you pick on the Taurus fan) at a given temp then off when needed.
Difference is the DCC box will turn on the fan but only at the lowest speed and then gradually to the full speed if required (you only need to hook up the ground and High speed). this is a completely automatic system. The FAL unit is not and you would have to dial in you temp setting for day to day driving then again for Off Road. the DCC unit is all ready to go and once installed you do not need to touch a thing.
Also i would be interested to see how this thing held up to a Taurus fan on the high speed wire. You would need at 60-80- amp relay for that not to burn out the control box. That is the main difference the DCC box is gradual so the relay is not needed.

Also you would have to do some extra wiring to make the FAL box work with AC.


I know there are alot of ways to do this. But after alot of research, this was the simplest way without having to build your own wiring schematic. Or worring if your relays were going to hold.

ogdak
04-07-2006, 03:22 AM
Came across this dcc fan switch last year, during my e-fan mod search.
So I ordered one this week.
Good write-up btw Narzuhl.

Cue-Ball
04-20-2006, 03:02 PM
So what year should I be looking at getting a taurus fan from????

Looking around on ebay, just not sure what drops in.

nate
04-20-2006, 03:05 PM
Like I said, the FAL controller does the same thing the DCC one does.

It kicks the fan on at 50% or whatever and brings it up to 100% as the radiator gets hotter. Also turns the fan on at 50% for A/C.

I'm not sure what you mean by automatic system? I just set the fan to kick on around 205 or so and it's been working fine since. I haven't had to adjust it for off road or street use... granted the Jeep doesn't see much street use.

The FAL controller works fine with the fan on the high setting. That's what I have on my Jeep... for over a year.

I'm not saying the DCC one is junk, just saying you can save some money. That's a good thing in my book.




Not the same thing at all.
That is basically a sensor box that switches the fan on (high or low depending on the wire you pick on the Taurus fan) at a given temp then off when needed.
Difference is the DCC box will turn on the fan but only at the lowest speed and then gradually to the full speed if required (you only need to hook up the ground and High speed). this is a completely automatic system. The FAL unit is not and you would have to dial in you temp setting for day to day driving then again for Off Road. the DCC unit is all ready to go and once installed you do not need to touch a thing.
Also i would be interested to see how this thing held up to a Taurus fan on the high speed wire. You would need at 60-80- amp relay for that not to burn out the control box. That is the main difference the DCC box is gradual so the relay is not needed.

Also you would have to do some extra wiring to make the FAL box work with AC.


I know there are alot of ways to do this. But after alot of research, this was the simplest way without having to build your own wiring schematic. Or worring if your relays were going to hold.

DCHZJ
04-20-2006, 03:23 PM
So what year should I be looking at getting a taurus fan from????

Looking around on ebay, just not sure what drops in.

Ford 8C607 fan. look for it in 90 to 95 Ford Taurus and Lincoln Mark VIII with the 3.8 litre engine

DCHZJ
04-20-2006, 03:26 PM
Like I said, the FAL controller does the same thing the DCC one does.

It kicks the fan on at 50% or whatever and brings it up to 100% as the radiator gets hotter. Also turns the fan on at 50% for A/C.

I'm not sure what you mean by automatic system? I just set the fan to kick on around 205 or so and it's been working fine since. I haven't had to adjust it for off road or street use... granted the Jeep doesn't see much street use.

The FAL controller works fine with the fan on the high setting. That's what I have on my Jeep... for over a year.

I'm not saying the DCC one is junk, just saying you can save some money. That's a good thing in my book.


That is the differance. the Fan does not kick on at 50% (actualy the FAL unit kicks in at 60%) right off the bat it kicks in at 10% or lower if required. then automaticly adjusts it self up to the speed required. 90% of the time i have to open the hood to see if the damn fan is even spinning.

The FAL unit looks good and comes with all the wiring, connectors and so forth. Looks like Part #FLX-31165 from Summit. Might try it on a Landcruiser i am looking at buying.

i like the Flex A Lite temp probe better. Are you using yours with a Taurus Fan? If so how is it working with that?

CurtP
04-20-2006, 04:16 PM
Flex-a-lite has the VSC (varible speed controller) which is what I used on the 4.0. It worked fine until one of the terminals pulled out of the controller and Flex-a-lite won't return my e-mails or phone calls - the damn thing was only 8 months old when it happened. Fucking assholes.

I was going to order DCC's controller, but it uses a probe thermosister that has to be stuck through the radiator fins like the Flex-a-lite does - and I don't like the idea of doing that to a brand new radiator. DCC has another temp probe that mounts to the thermostat housing, but at that point I just said fuck it and reinstalled the Hayden HD clutch. Now that I don't drive the 4.0 that much, I don't really care anymore.

At least I don't have to worry about any of that shit on the 5.9 :D

nate
04-20-2006, 04:18 PM
Yes with a Taurus fan.

That's not the right part number. The one I have is the big brother to that little guy and it's good for 60 or 70 amps. I don't remember the part # off hand. I do know that little one almost burnt my Jeep to the ground though.

The big one has 4 MOSFETs, little one 2.

I don't hear the fan over the engine whether it's 1/2 speed or full speed. I'm not sure what benefit starting off at 10% vs 60% is? Less power draw I guess, but that's hardly an issue anyway.

Cue-Ball
04-20-2006, 04:23 PM
I just said fuck it and reinstalled the Hayden HD clutch. Now that I don't drive the 4.0 that much, I don't really care anymore.

At least I don't have to worry about any of that shit on the 5.9 :D

So does that mean you have an e-fan laying around?

DCHZJ
04-20-2006, 04:51 PM
That makes more sense then the only other one they have that liike like it will hold up to the fan is like 91 bucks but no harness. Does include the temp sensor though.

I guess the biggest reason for gradualy adjustment is that in the winter for example in the extreme cold the fan never turned on or only a small ammout to cool down the engine. Other than that you do not have the snap on power that would require a huge relay (with the FAL has built in). So i would say they both would work just as well.

Really you could build this yourself. but after pricing it out i was at something like $70 bucks. and i still did not have wire, connectors, and somehwre to put all this crap in my cramped V8 engine bay (at time i wish i had a 4.0)

CurtP
04-20-2006, 09:50 PM
So does that mean you have an e-fan laying around?

I used an 18" Perma-Cool electric fan (PN 19117) and modified the mounting bracket that came with it to work with the stock shroud. I flipped the blade around and reversed the polarity. That put the motor of the fan against the radiator and gave me the clearance I needed.

I still have the fan, but I'm not selling it - at least not yet. I'll probably eventually get a new controller and reinstall it. I can't stand listening to the mechanical fan howl all the damn time.

ogdak
05-18-2006, 01:31 PM
Came across this dcc fan switch last year, during my e-fan mod search.
So I ordered one this week.
Good write-up btw Narzuhl.

Just arrived
http://www.flexworx.com/images/stories/project_otto/Forum/2006-05/DSCF2336.JPG
Took almost a month to get here
It says "BONAIRE(NETHERLANDS ANTILLES)" on the adress label.
And that is another country then "The Netherlands"
No hard feelings Brian. ;) thnx

Cue-Ball
05-18-2006, 07:11 PM
I am sure we will get detailed install pix and write up in your project thread when it comes time to install it.

CurtP
05-19-2006, 11:24 AM
Which temp probe did you get? Pic?

ogdak
05-20-2006, 04:56 PM
I am sure we will get detailed install pix and write up in your project thread when it comes time to install it.

Jup


Which temp probe did you get? Pic?

Here you go.
Delta probe on a metric scale.
http://www.flexworx.com/images/stories/project_otto/Forum/2006-05/DSCF2340.JPG

CurtP
05-20-2006, 10:16 PM
Jup



Here you go.
Delta probe on a metric scale.[/img]

What is this thing you call "metric scale"?

J/K - thanks for the picture :D

Looking forward to your install.

ogdak
05-21-2006, 05:24 AM
What is this thing you call "metric scale"?


A metric tape measure.

CurtP
05-21-2006, 09:28 AM
A metric tape measure.
I know - I was being facetious :D

windout
01-03-2007, 04:28 PM
Sorry to bring back this old thread. I just tried to e-mail brian at dccontrol to see what is the status of my controller. I ordered, and payed for, it 4 weeks ago. Well, my e mails bounced back to me, and his web site is no longer accessible on the web. Did he go out of buissness, and steal my money?

jsteves
05-28-2007, 11:12 AM
The webpage was down for awhile...right when I was ordering, so I ended up with one from painless that I am not overly impressed with. Anyway, he is there now.

OverkillZJ
05-28-2007, 11:33 AM
I ordered a replacement sensor last week and it shipped out recently, have a tracking number. He's a bit slow, but good stuff.

I killed my temp sensor in the mud.

WestexZJ
06-20-2007, 01:50 PM
I just wanted to bring this thread back to the top again.

I did the Taurus fan/DCC setup on my 95 5.2 ZJ in March in anticipation of attending GSW2007.

Let me say that this was one of the best mods I have every done to my Jeep. With everything I have done to my Jeep to help keep the temps in check, while sitting at an idle on 100 degree plus days and the AC on, my temps would begin to creep up to the 220 plus area. Now after this mod that is not the case.


GSW 2007 was in my opinion the ultimate test. On Friday and Saturday with the air temp in the Moab area in the 105 to 107 range, I ran my AC on the trails, and left it on while my Jeep sat at an idle for 15 to 30 minutes on the trail and not once did I ever get above 180 degrees.

fpkites
06-20-2007, 02:38 PM
I saw Ronnie's install in action too, and this will be my next mod - high temps on the trail are truly frightening. I had to be stingy with my AC because of the heat buildup. I'll post up in my journal when I get the parts. Thanks for showing me the setup R

WestexZJ
06-20-2007, 03:43 PM
I saw Ronnie's install in action too, and this will be my next mod - high temps on the trail are truly frightening. I had to be stingy with my AC because of the heat buildup. I'll post up in my journal when I get the parts. Thanks for showing me the setup R

Jim np. You are why I went back and found this thread, lots of good info.

Here is Delta's website http://www.dccontrol.com/ I used the FK35 controller. It is a complete kit with nothing left to buy. He does build these as they are ordered so it can take a few weeks since they aren't laying around on a shelve. Also you can google "Taurus fan swap" and get more info if need be.

It was great to meet you and you family and I look forward to wheeling again with you.

Ronnie

Lgoodson
06-08-2009, 11:46 PM
Hello. I am new to this site but I wanted to let everyone know what has happened to me. I purchased the FK-35 fan comtroller from ddcontrol. It took 4 weeks to get here and 2 days before it blew. I sent it back to Brian Baskin for a repair as it came with a 90 day warrantee but Brian said he couldn't fix it. That is all he said. He can't fix it!!
He said nothing else like "here let me sen you another one" or here's your money back. He basicly said beat it or tough luck chump! He won't return emails and his phone is always off the hook. He is hoping that I will just go away but I won't.

I have filled a complaint with PayPal and they recomend that I file a complaint with the government at IC3.gov for internet fraud. Selling products with a warrantee and then not honering that warrantee should be concidered a fraud.

Stay away fron Brian Baskin

ZJ TINS
06-13-2009, 12:08 PM
Link no work!

AGRESIVE
06-13-2009, 01:40 PM
He takes the site down when he gets too busy or doesn't want to deal with anybody. It usually happens when there is negative feedback floating around.

fpkites
06-13-2009, 06:56 PM
I'm going on about 2 years with my DCC controller. Keeps my junk cool all the time. Brian's even made an account on another forum in the past to help me with a customization I wanted to do on the box.

I'm sorry to hear you had issues with yours. Let us know if he sends you a new one despite not responding. Remember that he does build them by hand, so yours could be in the queue.

grandf4
09-01-2009, 11:51 PM
Looks like I am playing the waiting game now too. I ordered a control box about 6 weeks ago and no word yet. A guy I know ordered one and it took close to 3 months to get to his door

OverkillZJ
09-02-2009, 12:26 PM
The guy has a good product that's obviously in demand, you think he'd get his act together...

grandf4
09-02-2009, 12:46 PM
He actually emailed back and said he is making a batch of the controllers and they will be shipped out friday. An e-fan is going to be so nice!!!

fpkites
09-02-2009, 08:06 PM
It really is nice to have the e-fan, and the controller makes it so much easier to implement.

Mr. Baskin makes a damn good product, and I'm proud to have it on my rig.

Dragonfuel
11-12-2009, 11:46 AM
I've been running one for the last two years in my 97' ZJ. It did take almost 2 months for mine to arrive, but the wait is worth it. I actually used a fan out of 5.9 grand though. Really happy with everything, esp in slow traffic with high heat and humitiy, never gets hot anymore.

cowboy63b
11-30-2009, 01:08 AM
ok guys i ordered the 2sp kit for my tarus fan, installed it, and it worked for a whole 3 seconds, then kaplut, natta, nothing, checked everything 5 or 6 times, everything was correct, but still nuthin, i called brian and he said that if i send it back he will check it and if its crapped out he WILL send me another, so i just said fuck it and i ordered the FK-50P and im gonna see what that does instead. if any of you guys have that controller you can pipe up at any time.

fpkites
11-30-2009, 10:22 PM
So you called him and he said send it back. If it shit the bed, he'll send another one.

Then you ordered the 50? Are you still sending back the 35?

I'm confused

cowboy63b
12-02-2009, 03:15 AM
naaa im keepin it.

texas2000
02-18-2010, 09:25 PM
I wish I knew what I was getting into. I purchased one of these box of rocks from Brian. The thing worked for a month then stopped. I sent it back and he said I never had it installed? OK nice technical answer. That was 3-4 unanswered emails later. This guy is a real piece of work. His product looks nice on paper but does not perform. And don't think there is a 90 day warranty. Because I was within it. Even after he so kindly took his sweet ass time to reply. Product does not perform and customer service does not exist. Buyers beware

ZJ TINS
04-08-2010, 12:21 PM
The spal controller (http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=FAN-PWM-V3)has been updated for higher current. My older one I have yet to hook up but it seems to have a good rep.
And it comes with excellent instructions, gives you a wiring diagram for every combination.

AgitatedPancake
04-08-2010, 12:47 PM
Nice man. I have one of the DC controllers sitting in a box right now waiting to go in the WJ, so I'll let ya all know how it works

baskin
05-04-2010, 05:17 AM
I wish I knew what I was getting into. I purchased one of these box of rocks from Brian. The thing worked for a month then stopped. I sent it back and he said I never had it installed? OK nice technical answer. That was 3-4 unanswered emails later. This guy is a real piece of work. His product looks nice on paper but does not perform. And don't think there is a 90 day warranty. Because I was within it. Even after he so kindly took his sweet ass time to reply. Product does not perform and customer service does not exist. Buyers beware


He was told exactly what happened to it. I found that the controller was connected to the battery with the wires reversed when he installed it. He then wanted to blame the people who changed the oil on his truck, that's when I pointed out that the sensor had never been heat cycled, so there was no way that they could have been responsible for it.

I can post the emails if he wants.

baskin
05-04-2010, 05:22 AM
ok guys i ordered the 2sp kit for my tarus fan, installed it, and it worked for a whole 3 seconds, then kaplut, natta, nothing, checked everything 5 or 6 times, everything was correct, but still nuthin, i called brian and he said that if i send it back he will check it and if its crapped out he WILL send me another, so i just said fuck it and i ordered the FK-50P and im gonna see what that does instead. if any of you guys have that controller you can pipe up at any time.

You should send it back. If it was my fault, I'll refund you for the 2sp, but there is no way to tell what happened without looking at it first.

baskin
05-04-2010, 09:17 AM
Hello. I am new to this site but I wanted to let everyone know what has happened to me. I purchased the FK-35 fan comtroller from ddcontrol. It took 4 weeks to get here and 2 days before it blew. I sent it back to Brian Baskin for a repair as it came with a 90 day warrantee but Brian said he couldn't fix it. That is all he said. He can't fix it!!
He said nothing else like "here let me sen you another one" or here's your money back. He basicly said beat it or tough luck chump! He won't return emails and his phone is always off the hook. He is hoping that I will just go away but I won't.

I have filled a complaint with PayPal and they recomend that I file a complaint with the government at IC3.gov for internet fraud. Selling products with a warrantee and then not honering that warrantee should be concidered a fraud.

Stay away fron Brian Baskin

Larry has a 240z that he bought with an lt1 in it. I have a total of 64 emails from him, with 42 responses, that’s not a misprint.

The first controller I sent him he said was defective because the engine was overheating, I then explained to him that an lt1 requires that the system is bled in order for it to cool. He then wanted step by step instructions of how to bleed the cooling system of an lt1, which I gave him. At least 40 of those emails were just for the installation and trouble shooting. Once the system was bled, the controller worked perfectly until he connected 12V to a ground wire in his wiring harness. The instant he did that, the controller started running the fan full speed, he didn’t believe that the two were related. This is the explanation I gave him for the two being related:

I’ve done engineering for about twenty years, some in research and development and some in production, failure analysis was part of the production job.

The first thing I look at is timing, if a part was operational for a period of time and fails during an event, that event becomes suspect. The level of suspect is dependent on the failure rate of the part both in that circuit and in general. If it’s a reliable part, particularly in that circuit, then I look for a cause. In other words, the part may very well be reliable, it may have happened the instant of the event, but there has to be a method for the event to have caused the failure.

On the first, the event timing, I run the controllers here for 20 minutes and you ran it there for I’m assuming about that same amount of time. Products fail early in what is called an infant failure rate which is described by a “bathtub curve”, which is named that because it has the same curve as the side of a bathtub. In other words, the failures are highest the second it’s turned on, drop dramatically to a flat, low failure rate area, and then rise again as the part wears out. So the timing of it failing the second the wire was connected is significant. Because the duration of the event was so short, the odds are in the 10,000:1 region. The part used is a texas instruments op amp, which has been in use since the 80s. I picked that, along with the other pieces to design around by their track record. TI specs the part to have less than one failure per million, but I’ve never seen a failure without an outside cause in twenty years. It’s also isolated from the rest of the circuitry in the controller, so I’ve seen the same with the controller.

That leaves a method. The only two things that can damage the part are reversing the input power leads, which didn’t happen, and applying a voltage to the input that’s either very high or a negative voltage. The yellow input wire is tied to that part through a resistor, which provides some protection. The actual method is an inductive voltage spike. An inductive spike is caused by removing current from a length of wire, the longer the wire and the higher the current is, the larger the spike. It can easily be several hundred volts from a 12V system, so it’s not instability, it’s the inability of the controller to withstand that voltage that did it in. You can do a google search and find that fairly easily. I think if you traced through all of the wiring, you would find some connection, either direct or indirect, from what you were working with to the yellow wire.

With regard to protection being built in, companies build protection in depending on both the cost and how likely a problem will happen. For example, there have probably been at least a few basketballs that have gone through television screens, the television companies could easily protect against this with a piece of thick glass. They, of course don’t do that because it’s unlikely to happen, but that alone isn’t enough, for example, most people don’t have concrete in their living rooms, but they can’t sell televisions that fail just because they’re set on concrete, regardless of how rare that might be. In order to deem a protection unnecessary, the event not only has to be something that rarely happens, it also has to be something that is caused by an event that someone could foresee as a significant risk to that part or to something else. In other words, the person wouldn’t necessarily have to foresee the basketball going through the television screen as a risk, the risk of them breaking something else in the room is reason enough not to bounce the basketball in the living room.

On a follow up email:

One thing I forgot to add is how I think the spike itself occurred. The last time I talked to you, you thought it was a ground wire. What would happen then is that the 12V from inside the car would supply current to that wire, the 12V harness supplying the current would be the equivalent of an ignition coil with the points closed. The voltage would then spike when that wire is disconnected. The one model that I've done is for the starter circuit if the battery is located in the back of the car. For a 200A load and a 10 foot wire, when the starter solenoid is released, that wire produces 150V, so, 200A through 10 feet produces 150V when the current stops, a longer wire with less current would also produce that spike. It also doesn't take any time, if you arced the wires together, it would take 40 micro seconds to get to 200A on a 10 foot piece of wire, not long enough to blow the fuse, but long enough to cause a 150V spike.

He then decided that the controller was defective because it wasn’t protected in the case that someone connected 12V to a ground wire. We eventually settled on a price for a second controller, as far as I know, that one is still working.

ZJ TINS
05-06-2010, 01:00 AM
Maybe have an option to add an MR2535 to dump any voltage spikes?

As for running them for 20 minutes,once the current stabilizes (maybe up to a few seconds depending upon that load) the rest of the 20 minutes does not do much.

Switching it at max current rating (at room temperature) a couple hundred times would be a cheap way to find weak units much more effectively. You can build during the day, then test at night using a PC, a National Instruments card and a power supply. It is a very effective (for a generic test).

baskin
05-06-2010, 02:29 AM
Anyone who has done any level of engineering will tell you that, for a given price, in order to add something to protect one person from his lack of common sense, you have to take away from part of the product that truly effects reliability. I could, of course, charge all of my customers for a nearly useless feature that none of them would use, since the majority of them donít connect 12V to a ground wire. I kind of doubt though that theyíd want to pay for that anymore than everyone would want to pay for 6Ē thick television screens so that you can play basketball in your living room. From my calculation, given the number of people who have blown them up this way, the part to protect it would have to cost less of a tenth of a cent for my customers to break even. Iím pretty sure that part is more than 1/10 of a cent. It would be nice if we could all live in a little obama world of nerf and free healthcare, but it turns out that someone else always has to pay for it, I take it youíre a democrat.

With regard to your reliability assessment, what you are proposing is testing for 100 random events out of an infinite possibility of events, it might make you feel all warm and fuzzy inside, but it has absolutely no useful utility. That is why that part of reliability analysis is always done at the design, not the test level. I've done failure analysis on a line that shipped 50 million a quarter, believe me when I tell you that what you're saying with regard to this is incorrect.

grandf4
05-06-2010, 02:40 AM
I don't care what anybody says, this product is kick ass!!!

Nobody else makes anything like it and if I had been smart and fused the power going to the module it wouldn't have fried when I got a stick jammed in the fan(it's a long story).

Yes, it took quite a while to get it shipped but it was well worth the wait.

Baskin it's nice to see you on here, now how about a deal on another module?

AgitatedPancake
05-06-2010, 03:07 AM
While I'll also say mine took a while to get here, I hooked it up yesterday! Two days of driving so far with it working perfectly. I'm impressed so far, thanks Brian!

baskin
05-06-2010, 03:17 AM
I don't care what anybody says, this product is kick ass!!!

Nobody else makes anything like it and if I had been smart and fused the power going to the module it wouldn't have fried when I got a stick jammed in the fan(it's a long story).

Yes, it took quite a while to get it shipped but it was well worth the wait.

Baskin it's nice to see you on here, now how about a deal on another module?


Sure, if I can't fix that one, it's probably just an output transistor, it's easy to change

fpkites
05-06-2010, 10:31 AM
I've had my FK35 for about 2 1/2 years, and it's been flawless. I don't have to worry about it at all.

OverkillZJ
05-06-2010, 10:33 AM
Mines been on a rather rabused buggy for 3-4 years now. It's exposed, and has been submerged more than once, things it wasn't even designed for - yet it just keeps on working.

Great product in my opinion.

ZJ TINS
05-06-2010, 03:20 PM
With regard to your reliability assessment, what you are proposing is testing for 100 random events out of an infinite possibility of events, it might make you feel all warm and fuzzy inside, but it has absolutely no useful utility. That is why that part of reliability analysis is always done at the design, not the test level. I've done failure analysis on a line that shipped 50 million a quarter, believe me when I tell you that what you're saying with regard to this is incorrect.

Being a certified Reliability Engineer at a premier aerospace/avionics company, and doing the Reliabilty analysis you talk of and plan for production, field support and test, yeh I know what I am talking about.

If you product works to the level your customers need great.

By the way agriculture and some heavy engine outfits use an MR2535 on all there electronics in case of batteryless operation, alternator diode failure, reversing wiring etc... It has been a while but John Deere and Caterpillar required them (or similar protection scheme) or all there equipement that hangs of any main bus power (12V, 24V, 48V).
The only reason I quipped up in here is you claimed that 20 minutes run-in equal zero problems which is not true.

AgitatedPancake
12-17-2010, 02:57 PM
Nice man. I have one of the DC controllers sitting in a box right now waiting to go in the WJ, so I'll let ya all know how it works


Thought I would update, My jeeps been to Moonrocks, the Rubicon, Fordyce, Strawberry trail, Deer Valley, Slickrock and I'm sure more so far, the controller has not givin me a single issue yet!

Felipe
04-03-2011, 03:23 PM
I am about to install a DCC 2SP with a Ford Taurus Fan. What size fuse should I use for the high speed (high fan)? Is a 40 Amp enough?
Thanks

moparrr07
04-03-2011, 04:37 PM
when i measured my taurus fan amperage the high speed spiked at 120amps on startup and ran 40 amp continuous, a fuseable link will be a better solution for the high speed protection

fpkites
04-04-2011, 12:34 AM
I'm pretty sure the DCC comes from Brian with a fusible link for the hot lead. Been a while since I put mine in, but I'm fairly confident there.

I've had my controller in for a few years, and it just now is having some issues that are more than likely due to a failing temperature probe. Order is in to DCC for a new probe, then I'll slap the Taurus fan back in. Mechanical fan for now so I can get smog test done tomorrow.

ZJ TINS
04-04-2011, 11:08 AM
Electric motor startup typically will hit a 6X peak current at start up but it is short in time (<<0.1 sec typical). Also on shut off there is a reverse voltage spike. (V= L dI/dT or Voltage = motor inductance x change in current over change in time). A big relay works.
The start up is more to due with heat generation of the contact points on the relay. A cheap relay cannot dump the heat and well designed and built one can.
A reverse diode for the reverse voltage shut down can dump the current of the coil in shut down. Sometimes a cheap relay cannot take the reverse voltage spike.

I am going with a MOSFET and a reversing diode instead of a relay. It also needs a couple small parts, a gate drive zener and bead on the gate.
A power MOSFET can be had with less than .05 ohm so at maximum 30 amps out continuous it only sees 1.5 watts loss. With a small heat sink (just an aluminum channel) this gives less than 10 degree rise junction to ambient. So worst case with the engine compartment=70oC the junction would be 80oC, and is spec'd to 150oC.

cLAYH
07-10-2011, 01:06 PM
When I installed my fan I grabbed a bunch wiring and the fuse holder from the car I pillaged it from at the wrecker. I used the original fuse and holder in my install. I believe its a 60amp maxi fuse.

thunderchooch
11-20-2011, 11:08 AM
I guess I got the wrong fan from the Junkyard the other day. I got the dual fan set up from a Taurus, will those work with this setup too? Or do I need to go back and find the single bigger fan?

BigDaveZJ
04-09-2017, 04:43 PM
Wow, don't know how I missed a bunch of rando's without Grands posting on here bitching about a product that we all seems to love. Anyways, I ordered up the 2sp relay controller and will be installing it here shortly as everyone that I know that has Brian's products loves them.

jsteves
04-09-2017, 04:50 PM
Just order asap. Takes forever to ship...


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BigDaveZJ
04-10-2017, 12:56 AM
Yeah I ordered it a while back, got it out in the shop already.

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