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View Full Version : WJ Tie Rod Flip and Max Droop for Drag Link



JohnBoulderCO
03-23-2006, 07:20 PM
Get your tie rod out of the rocks! One of the best mods you can do for your WJ if you wheel in the rocks.

The WJ's tie rod hangs very low and so does the steering stabilizer. I have broken 1 tie rod and bent one. I have destroyed 4 steering stabilizers, even after mounting them on top of the axle bracket (it's still low).

Adam (Jeepin' Wolf) was the first to do this modification on his WJ. You can see find his post on NAGCA. I have made some improvements to it.

You can flip your stock tie rod or buy a stronger one from Kevin (www.kevinsoffroad.com (http://www.kevinsoffroad.com)). Kevin's is thicker and doesn't neck down where the TRE's thread in, like the OEM one. A good investment!

The factory WJ TRE's are pretty strong. Bigger then a ZJ's. With a 24mm thread, they are almost 1 inch.

To flip the tie rod:
I used the inserts from www.goferitoffroad.com (http://www.goferitoffroad.com) They are too long for the WJ's knuckles, so cut them shorter, so they come within 1/16"-1/8" from the bottom of the knuckle hole. They need to be shorter so when you tighten the TRE nut, it makes contact with the knuckle, not the insert. You could also grind them flush to the bottom of the knuckle. You drill out your knuckles, slip them in (don't forget to cut shorter, or grind flush when done) and weld the top of them to the knuckle. You now have your tie rod on top.

Note: pop the rubber boot off a TRE and slip it in the newly welded insert. Make sure you have around .090" gap to the top of the TRE. The rubber boot is about that thick (with a metal washer inside). You want to make sure that when the TRE is tighten in the insert, that the rubber boot is not making contact with the insert, or your TRE will not be tight. If you don't have the correct clearance, after welding, grind a little off the top of the weld.

To keep your front sway bar, move the passenger sway bar mounts to the inside (see pics).

To keep maximum turning radius, cut the little piece of metal at your track bar mount and notch your driver side spring perch (see pics).

Now make a little bracket to mount your SS to the driver side lower sway bar mount. Re-use the SS mount to the tie rod. (see pics).

Drag Link improvement:
The reason Teraflex and Rock Krawler sell those Drop Pitman Arms and Track Bar drop brackets is because the WJ's pitman TRE does not allow enough droop starting just taller then a 2" lift on a WJ (using shorter shocks).

A 4" lift kit for a WJ with longer shocks (26"), has both the DPA and TB drop bracket, because the stock draglink TRE will bind with shocks at that length with out them. I have suspension cycled the WJ in the garage to make sure my draglink was NOT acting like a limiting strap. It was! So I added a DPA (a la bumpsteer), then a TB bracket. It never stayed tight and my spring hit it, my axle hit it....what a mess.

Better way...
To keep your stock pitman arm, use a Chevy High misalignment TRE at the pitman arm end (ES2027L) and the stock drag link WJ TRE at the passenger hub side of the drag link. (See pics)

The Chevy TRE thread is 7/8-18L and the WJ TRE is 24mm-xxR. How to make that work on the same tube?

I bought a WJ tie rod (no TRE's), which is bigger then the drag link tube, but necks down to the 24mm thread at both ends. Use your stock drag link WJ TRE at the pass hub side and buy a Posion Spyder Tube adapter (7/8-18L) and jam nut for the pitman arm side. Cut the tie rod tube to length and weld the tube adapter in place.

You will have to machine your pitman arm for the Chevy TRE. The taper is different then the WJ TRE, I believe it was 8 degrees. A machine shop did that for me for a six pack. Just bring your pitman arm and the Chevy TRE to match up the angle to CNC it.

------------------

If you don't want to do all that, you can keep your stock drag link, but you must modify the TRE on the passenger side end.

Cut the drag link TRE, rotate it and weld a plate on it for increased strength. (See pics).

Now you can mount it on top of the knuckle with the angle pointing the correct direction.

Update:

I picked up a Right Hand Drive (steering wheel on Right side) -- Right Hand Thread -- TRE for the Knuckle Side of the Drag Link from the Jeep Dealer. Jeep P/N is 52088512

It has the same exact bend that our Drag Link TRE has, just the opposite direction. So, you can use this TRE on top of your knuckle, to clear your spring.

No need to fab a custom TRE for the swap, just buy one at the Jeep Dealer or at: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/grand_c...sionWJ9904.htm (http://www.jeep4x4center.com/grand_cherokee/SteeringSuspensionWJ9904.htm) I posted a Pic of it in the next post.

Note: you need wheels with more back spacing to clear the drag link TRE. 16" wheels need 5" of BS to clear it. I have a set of 16x8 with 5" of BS and 15x8 with 3.75" of BS. Factory 16x7 with 6" of BS will hit the TRE, I have tried it.

Note: you need to flip both your Tie Rod and your Drag Link. If you try to just flip your Tie Rod, the TRE on the passenger side Tie Rod, will hit the Drag Link TRE above it on the knuckle. It looks like it might work, but it won't. You need to flip both.

JohnBoulderCO
03-23-2006, 07:26 PM
Here are some pics of the drag link and pitman arm mod.

Also, you can now cut off the factory SS mount on the bottom of the axle. One less thing for a rock to hang you up on. :)

EDIT: The last pic is of the RHD TRE.

death-mobile
03-23-2006, 07:54 PM
I can't tell in the picture, but are you using a lowering bracket on the track bar still? If I were to use the Chevy TRE and the stock pitman arm, cut and weld the passenger side draglink TRE and flip it on top, would I need to get rid of the track bar lowering bracket? The modification is awsome, but at the moment...I'm more interested in the driveablity of my WJ. Would you suggest the drag-link mod as far as better steering?

JohnBoulderCO
03-23-2006, 08:45 PM
No on the drop bracket for the track bar. No on the drop pitman arm. That bolt you see is above the standard track bar bolt. I'm going to mount a center limiting strap there.

You could still run a drop trackbar bracket, but why bother.


I did the track bar mod BEFORE I flipped my tie rod to get more droop. With the TRE on top, you might be OK with out the Chevy pitman TRE. But, you would have to check. I really did it to make sure there was zero bind on my drag link. That causes TRE's to fail and steering pumps to wear out.

BTW, all that oil you notice on my steering pump is from the high pressure line leaking a few months back. That hose cost a few $$$ from the dealer, not too hard to install.

nate
03-23-2006, 09:36 PM
Just an FYI, my brother makes those inserts. I think he's charging $15 shipped which is a bit cheaper than Go Fer It.

JohnBoulderCO
03-23-2006, 09:38 PM
That's right! Sorry, forgot about you having those as well. I did this mod last fall, just got around to writing it up. I got a lot of questions about it, so I figured it was time to share.

luvthejeep
03-23-2006, 09:50 PM
i liked everything untill...

807

the cheby swap is the right way to do it- even if your welding skills are good, some peoples arent and this kinda sends the wrong message- nice solution toa problem though- cool read

Mtn WJ
03-23-2006, 09:55 PM
Nice write up John. I happen to be going to the Fab Palace next week to have my TRE welded up. I will have this done in a week or two after that.

Yea I would not trust most people to weld this properly. Especially myself however Bob is pretty good with a TIG welder and adding the extra brace as shown gives a little extra piece of mind.

JohnBoulderCO
03-23-2006, 11:31 PM
Thanks guys.
The problem with the WJ is there is zero room for the drag link TRE. It has to have that angle or it will hit your spring. If you don't move the sway bar disco to the other side, the TRE will hit that too.

You need angles in the tie rod TRE's as well for clearance and I still had to cut things to keep my turning radius.

If you could run the staight 1 ton TRE's I would have, but they won't fit on the WJ's stock axle. I bought a set, tried to make them work, couldn't, so I gave them to Corey/Cristi as a Baby Shower gift. Not sure if the kid plays with them or not. :D

I didn't do the welding myself. Bob (Trango) in Boulder did. He TIG welded it. I trust it.

ogdak
03-24-2006, 02:32 AM
good write-up.

Mtn WJ
03-24-2006, 09:00 AM
I have seen Johns set up and it looks great. Definately one of the best mods going for WJs especially if you wheel in the rocks. I have bent and broken way to many steering stablizers and tie rods. The Stabilzer you can live with out but a broken tied stick er a rod is not a good thing. Most of the time with the stock Tie rod they will crack at the rear portion where it necks down which is also where you will not necessarily see it. Then you could be cruising the highway and guess what it breaks.

JohnBoulderCO
03-24-2006, 09:23 AM
From Carnage Canyon last August. I had enough, it was time to flip the tie rod and buy a stronger one too. Keith is right, notice where it breaks, at the point of neck down. Kinda like a D35 shaft's neck down area. :) Also notice that even with the SS up higher, the tie rod bent up and dented the SS body. And yes, I did see the rock. It isn't that big and I was starting to climb over it when the tie rod snapped. I think it was flexed (fatigue) one too many times from previous rocks and it was time to break.

Northtrails
03-25-2006, 02:31 AM
Thanks for the write-up. I am still running without a SS after pancaking the last 2. I need this flip.

Creech
04-12-2006, 03:52 PM
Interseting. I may look into doing the flip. I hit my TR on a big rock a couple weeks ago and was thinking there's gotta be a better place for this thing. That might allow me to use my knuckle attachement point for the sterring again.

I haven't had a steering stabilizer for over two years, just good geometry.

ArloGuthroJeep
05-12-2006, 12:18 PM
Any reason I couldn't move my (actually add another) SS to where you have yours now?

JohnBoulderCO
09-25-2006, 08:05 PM
Thanks.

Another way to do the drag link would be to bend the drag link at the knuckle end. Make it look like a "J" to clear the spring.

You could then use a big Chevy TRE at the knuckle end (providing your rims have enough offset to clear the TRE). Adjusting the drag link would be a little harder, you would have to pop the TRE out of knuckle, then rotate to correct length. You would also be limited to only full turns, no fine tuning to get the steering wheel location exact.

Just another way to do it.

JohnBoulderCO
05-06-2007, 01:29 AM
Another way:
I was replacing my 2027L TRE at the pitman arm today. Noticed at Moab last weekend that it was getting a little sloppy. Everything wears out.

While under the Jeep, I was looking at the drag link and wondering what the Right Hand drive WJ's drag link would look like.

Did a little Googling and found that the Right Hand drive WJ has a different TRE part number at the knuckle then the Left Hand drive TRE. Both use the same pitman arm TRE. Which means, maybe the Right Hand drive TRE has the correct bend to put on top of the knuckle and clear the spring.

If so, you wouldn't have to cut and weld the Left Hand drive TRE.

Why didn't I think of this before? :smt075 Maybe since it worked, I didn't think about improving on it until I was replacing a worn out TRE.

I'm going to stop by the Jeep dealer to take a look. My fear is that it won't have the same bend, maybe the spring perches are different enough the bend isn't needed or isn't as much, for the Right Hand drive WJ.

I hope it has the same bend, so the welded TRE step could be eliminated! :D

ArloGuthroJeep
05-06-2007, 09:25 AM
You pulled that from this very informative post:smt046
http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showpost.php?p=776004&postcount=17

JohnBoulderCO
05-06-2007, 09:39 AM
This is what I found:
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/grand_cherokee/SteeringSuspensionWJ9904.htm
Item #10 has two different part numbers.

Yes, I saw that thread on CO4x4 last night. Your link doesn't work.

Both of you guys are saying Left Hand drive and Right Thread.

I want to look at the Right Hand Drive (steering wheel location) and Right Thread TRE and see if it will work.

The TRE he used doesn't look like it has enough of a bend to work on our WJ's.

It looks like he used one of the Tie Rod TRE's, since the bend isn't very much.

Edit:
The guy on that thread just confirmed this morning, he is using the OEM TRE from the Tie Rod, with the Right Hand Thread. Not the Right Hand Drive Drag Link TRE, which I want to investigate.

Adam (Jeepin' Wolf), who pioneered this mod (see my first post) used the OEM TRE from the Tie Rod, but had to give up some turning radius.

Northtrails
05-06-2007, 10:00 AM
You can also go here www.kragen.com for some pics on the TREs, both knuckle and steering.

http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/mcq/es3472-1.jpg

http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/mcq/es3473-1.jpg

http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/mcq/es3474-1.jpg

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=MCQ&MfrPartNumber=ES3472&PartType=80&PTSet=A

JohnBoulderCO
05-08-2007, 08:10 PM
I stopped by NAPA and flipped through the Chassis book looking at the Moog TRE's. They don't make one. Off to the Jeep dealer tomorrow.

Nonstop
05-14-2007, 06:46 PM
Sorta noobie ? here... Iall my Tierod ends are torn up, and I just ordered Kevins WJ Tie rod and Drag link, I think his are 1 1/4" , I have all new Moog parts for the ends and am fine with thier strength/size for what we do down here, but as far as flex goes I do not want my Drag link end being the limiting factor as it seems... Anyone think it is possible to just drill and tap the Kevins Drag link/Pitman arm end for the flexy Chebby end, and thread it on there, ream the Drag link and call it a decent solution, wouldn't this add a degree or few of flex..... obviously without going the complet flip route, yet,...Can't see why not.. Thanks for any contribution

JohnBoulderCO
05-14-2007, 07:12 PM
I haven't seen Kevin's Drag Link, so I don't know if there is enough "meat" to tap it to the Big Chevy end. If you could, you would need the Left Hand thread tap for the TRE.

Jim311
05-14-2007, 07:18 PM
Mine droops pretty fawkin far and if you look at it, the ends really aren't at that much of an angle.

http://gator4x4.com/photosets/albums/RR06/DSCF2670.jpg

Jim311
05-14-2007, 07:23 PM
I haven't seen Kevin's Drag Link, so I don't know if there is enough "meat" to tap it to the Big Chevy end. If you could, you would need the Left Hand thread tap for the TRE.


If you were concerned about it, I think you'd be better off just buying some DOM and having it threaded. I think at some point it's an excercise in futility though since I think the WJ TREs are going to be stronger than your drag link or tie rod unless you use some seriously thick shit. Kevin's is really not that thick.. mine is bent.

Nonstop
05-14-2007, 07:38 PM
I am not really concearned about the WJ ends, I got the moog stuff and a friend is gonna put a few braces on them, especially at the Pitman Arm one, plenty of space there to weld on a nice piece 1/4" in the bend up, as far as Kevins rods go, they are only maybe an 1/8" larger dia. but they are notably thicker, still an upgrade. I am only really worried about the angles, I will wait till I get them then drive over to the loading ramps and snap a pic..Now I need to figure out a stabilizer mount. I like that I will now have jamb nuts and thicker tubing. Thanks again

JohnBoulderCO
05-14-2007, 09:29 PM
Update:

I picked up a Right Hand Thread -- Right Hand Drive -- TRE for the Knuckle Side of the Drag Link from the Jeep Dealer today. Jeep P/N is 52088512

It has the same exact bend that our Drag Link TRE has, just the opposite direction. So, you can use this TRE on top of your knuckle, to clear your spring.

You can use WJ OEM TRE’s and flip your Tie Rod.

It was a special order and took two days to get from Detroit, but with all the WJ's sold in England, Japan and Australia, I don't think there is any worry about it being discontinued.

I will post a pic or two later this week when I get it installed.

Mtn WJ
05-15-2007, 08:41 AM
John

This is pretty cool. After I decide how I want to address my track bar up front I may do the flip. I will order the RH drive TRE and keep the one I had made as a spare.

nierace
05-28-2007, 08:52 PM
Update:

I picked up a Right Hand Thread -- Right Hand Drive -- TRE for the Knuckle Side of the Drag Link from the Jeep Dealer today. Jeep P/N is 52088512

It has the same exact bend that our Drag Link TRE has, just the opposite direction. So, you can use this TRE on top of your knuckle, to clear your spring.

You can use WJ OEM TRE’s and flip your Tie Rod.

It was a special order and took two days to get from Detroit, but with all the WJ's sold in England, Japan and Australia, I don't think there is any worry about it being discontinued.

I will post a pic or two later this week when I get it installed.

If you keep the stock TRE at the pitman arm, will the right hand drive TRE provide enough clearance? I tried using a regular driver side TRE, but the bend was not enough aside from not being able to thread it into the draglink properly....even if I was able to thread it, I would hit into the sway bar mount at about 3/5th turn...

Another thing I ran into is, I found that I need to get a insert for the draglink at the knuckle side as well..


Also is there any reason why you didn't order the part from jeep4x4 center ?

JohnBoulderCO
05-28-2007, 10:24 PM
Yes the RHD TRE will clear, if you move your sway bar link to the other side of it's mount. You can see that in the pics.

Yes, you need three inserts.

I didn't get it from jeep4x4 center because it was only $7 more from the dealer and I wanted to confirm with them that it was correct. Now that I know it is correct, I could buy it from jeep4x4 center, depending on their shipping costs.

Here it is, installed. Note, all WJ TRE's are made in Canada, hence the leaf on the sticker.

nierace
06-06-2007, 08:41 AM
Unfortunately I didn't find this out till everything was said and done, and before I told Arlo to order the inserts from goferitoffroad :pissed:

*******But IRO sells the inserts for 4.99 ******* WONT WORK!!!

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-S_STS

******* THESE SLEEZVES FROM IRO WILL NOT WORK IN THE KNUCKLE!!!!!!!*****

Sorry for the confusion...

JohnBoulderCO
06-06-2007, 08:49 AM
Make sure you drill the holes straight. Best bet is to take the knuckles off and take them to a machine shop. Make sure your welds are good. TIG would be best in this application.

nierace
06-06-2007, 09:11 AM
Word I just drilled mine in place like a hill billy, looked straight to me... :rolleyes:

ArloGuthroJeep
06-06-2007, 09:13 AM
Damn John, taking my knuckles off and to a machine shop - that sounds like A LOT of work...I think it would just be easier for me to wait for you to build a new axle and I'll take your old one:D

JohnBoulderCO
06-06-2007, 11:06 AM
It's not that hard, really. You can take the shafts out with the hubs, just 3 13mm bolts. Hardest part is getting the knuckles off.

I'm just saying what the "best" way is to do this. Kinda like welding your LA's on your WJ vs. bolting them on.:D

Ryan that would be the easiest. The tone rings are on the shafts if you want to keep your ABS, you get the Stillen brakes, updated calipers, axle truss, 4.56 gears, ARB.....and the flipped steering....just bolt it in. No shipping either, local. Easy. :D

Jim311
06-06-2007, 11:13 AM
You can't retain ABS because the ZJ sensors don't fit into the holes. It's possible to make them work if you drilled out the knuckle maybe..

JohnBoulderCO
06-06-2007, 02:08 PM
You can't retain ABS because the ZJ sensors don't fit into the holes. It's possible to make them work if you drilled out the knuckle maybe..
This is a WJ axle, not a ZJ axle. You can retain ABS, I was running it before I did my rear axle swap.

Jim311
06-06-2007, 10:59 PM
Ah. Well.. if you have a ZJ and you're doing the WJ knuckle swap the ABS won't work unless you fab something :D

ArloGuthroJeep
06-07-2007, 05:38 PM
Why not? ABS sensors are the same aren't they? # of teeth on the tone rings are also the same I thought?

death-mobile
06-09-2007, 12:59 AM
Update:

I picked up a Right Hand Thread -- Right Hand Drive -- TRE for the Knuckle Side of the Drag Link from the Jeep Dealer today. Jeep P/N is 52088512

It has the same exact bend that our Drag Link TRE has, just the opposite direction. So, you can use this TRE on top of your knuckle, to clear your spring.

You can use WJ OEM TRE’s and flip your Tie Rod.

It was a special order and took two days to get from Detroit, but with all the WJ's sold in England, Japan and Australia, I don't think there is any worry about it being discontinued.

I will post a pic or two later this week when I get it installed.


That is an awsome find man. I'm going to order it today. Do you need 3 sleeves to do this? I guess I'll use a longer bolt to space the sway bar link out.

bigsurf75
06-09-2007, 03:01 AM
Unfortunately I didn't find this out till everything was said and done, and before I told Arlo to order the inserts from goferitoffroad :pissed:

*******But IRO sells the inserts for 4.99 ******* WONT WORK!!!

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-S_STS

******* THESE SLEEZVES FROM IRO WILL NOT WORK IN THE KNUCKLE!!!!!!!*****

Sorry for the confusion...


Yea, I was the test dummy for this one. I ordered three and they won't do SHIT for me. I told them taper adapter, but I recieved these instead. Oh well, miscommunication, the guys at IRO as still cool as hell.

gonecheenin
07-27-2007, 11:32 AM
Ah. Well.. if you have a ZJ and you're doing the WJ knuckle swap the ABS won't work unless you fab something :D

You did the WJ swap on yours I'm assuming?

I was trying to see in the pic, but I couldn't tell if that was the WJ knuckle or the Tereflex one

Lbrty9
01-04-2008, 08:07 AM
Nothing like digging up the old threads...

John,

How's your set-up work for DD? Did your flip add or reduce bump-steer? My steering has gotten prety sloppy and it's mostly due to the TRA at the pitman, I think. I've also gone through like 4 SS and 1 tie-rod, so this would solve both problems nicely, assuming it is tight enough to allow me to make an hour long commute twice a day...

JohnBoulderCO
01-04-2008, 12:10 PM
It's going to increase your bump steer. I do drive around town from time to time, drive it to the trails in CO and to Moab several times a year. It's not as crisp as my new DD, but since you are already at 6" your Jeep isn't that crisp anymore either. I haven't hit my SS since raising it up that high or broken a tie rod (I still hit it, just not as much and the JKS one is much stronger then stock). If you are bending drag links, at least convert to a big chevy TRE on your pitman arm, that is binding and acting like a limiting strap.

Lbrty9
01-04-2008, 02:40 PM
Well, unfortunately for me, this is my DD and I have to be able to survive in DC traffic with it an hour each way. I guess I'll start trying to figure out how to tighten it up and work the bump steer out of it. 295 around the Navy Yard is really bad with the BS I've got. Adding BS is going to make it impossible to handle.

Wonder what your setup would do with a TB Drop bracket added while leaving the stock pitman. If memory serves, I tried that and it was awful...

rradford9
01-20-2008, 10:56 PM
Well, unfortunately for me, this is my DD and I have to be able to survive in DC traffic with it an hour each way. I guess I'll start trying to figure out how to tighten it up and work the bump steer out of it. 295 around the Navy Yard is really bad with the BS I've got. Adding BS is going to make it impossible to handle.

Wonder what your setup would do with a TB Drop bracket added while leaving the stock pitman. If memory serves, I tried that and it was awful...

If you do the flip and raise the axle end of the drag link, and also do a trackbar drop bracket, your links should be back to parallel, eliminating the extra bump steer, yes or no?

JohnBoulderCO
01-21-2008, 12:10 PM
Yes, if you want to eliminate the bump steer. I don't care about the little extra bump steer and didn't want to mess with a Track Bar Drop bracket (bad idea) or a new Track bar mount on the axle. If one was making a new track bar from scratch, they could find a new location for the mount on the axle side, to reduce/eliminate the bump steer.

theksmith
02-29-2008, 04:25 PM
I wanna make sure I'm doing the right thing with this steering setup...
I am putting a 4.5" lift on a daily driver WJ, and I want to accomplish the following in regards to steering:

1) Beef up the steering components and replace worn components.
2) Remove anything that is limiting flex.
3) Get the geometry correct to reduce potential for bump-steer and/or death wobble.

So if I read all the posts right, then the following should work well without any other changes (no chevy tre, no bracket changes)...

A JKS Adjustable track bar #OGS127.

Kevin's draglink with factory replacement TRE on pitman end, and factory part #52088512 TRE (from a RHD) on the knuckle end, flipped to top of knuckle using 1 "tie rod flip insert" from goferitoffroad.

JKS WJ Tie-Rod #TR300 and 2 new factory replacement TRE's. Flip to top of knuckle by using 2 "tie rod flip inserts" from goferitoffroad. Also requires swapping the lower sway bar link mount to inside on passenger side.

Anything I missed, or better components available other than JKS/Kevinz? Thanks!

ArloGuthroJeep
02-29-2008, 04:30 PM
This'll make bump steer worse since you have now taken the trackbar and drag link out of parallel. The JKS/Kevin tierod is very beefy, I have beaten the crap out of mine and had held up great:)

theksmith
02-29-2008, 04:36 PM
This'll make bump steer worse since you have now taken the trackbar and drag link out of parallel. The JKS/Kevin tierod is very beefy, I have beaten the crap out of mine and had held up great:)

i thought the lift would bring them out of parallel and this would help put them back? are you saying i would be better off not doing anything to the steering then after a 4.5" lift (driveability wise, not clearance wise obviously)??

theksmith
02-29-2008, 04:53 PM
i thought the lift would bring them out of parallel and this would help put them back? are you saying i would be better off not doing anything to the steering then after a 4.5" lift (driveability wise, not clearance wise obviously)??

oh wait, I'm thinking of the inverted Y on my XJ, on the WJ it stays parallel when you lift, i get it!

is there a shorter pitman arm that would make up for flipping the trackbar on the knuckle end?

so if my main goals are driveability and not limiting flex, sounds like i should put beefy bars in, and put the chevy TRE on the pitman end and call it good?

JakeMate
08-09-2010, 12:40 PM
Digging up an old thread.

Is anyone using the WJ Over the Knuckle Tie Rod Kit from Iron Rock?

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-WTRFK

WJJEEPIN
08-10-2010, 10:45 AM
Digging up an old thread.

Is anyone using the WJ Over the Knuckle Tie Rod Kit from Iron Rock?

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-WTRFK

Yup for years now. What do you need to know?

JakeMate
08-10-2010, 11:00 AM
Well it sounds like it's holding up. What about installation? Did you use a pickle fork? I found another technique for removing the tierod ends from a member on Jeepforum:

"A method that has worked 100% of the time for me and is a ton easier then a pickle fork, is to unbolt the TRE most of the way (leave the castle nut barely on there). Then on the knuckles there is a flat spot next to where the steering ends connect. Wack that with a BFH 6+ times. Depending on how hard you hit, it'll drop out eventually." ArloGuthroJeep (http://jeepspace.jeepforum.com/ArloGuthroJeep)

ArloGuthroJeep
08-10-2010, 11:36 AM
I would like to think I am a member here too:flipoff2:

JakeMate
08-10-2010, 11:40 AM
At least I quoted you :) Eat shit. :butthead:

WJJEEPIN
08-10-2010, 10:07 PM
I've done both. Whatever you have will work.

Yeah I got it in the mail when I got home from the hospital after my son was born and that was July 07. No complaints. Just make sure if you take it to a shop to get aligned that all the bolts are there when u leave. I noticed a month later that the didn put on the locking bolts after they were done. :)

JakeMate
08-11-2010, 08:20 AM
Speaking of alignment, I guess the only thing that could change would be the toe setting? That one is pretty easy to set with a tape measure.

WJJEEPIN
08-11-2010, 12:08 PM
Speaking of alignment, I guess the only thing that could change would be the toe setting? That one is pretty easy to set with a tape measure.

Yup, I went in for caster and they fine tuned everything.

WJJEEPIN
08-25-2010, 10:57 PM
So a heads up. IRO has a drop bracket/cross memeber for the track bar (for their JK axle swap). It will drop the track bar 3-4". ( I will know on Monday)

I will accompany this with their Pitman arm drop 1" which SHOULD get me back to near parallel. I will follow up with pix and measurements and driving feedback.

Fingers crossed it corrects the stupid bumpsteer and my wife will be cool driving the rig again....

Backwoods Rambler
11-14-2010, 12:16 AM
Is this flip something I should be considering as part of my planned KOR 2.75" lift? I know everything helps usually, but with such a small lift, are the gains worth it?

Also, if I did do this, I would also working to eliminate the bump steer it causes, so I've contacted IRO about thier drop bracket/cross memeber from thier WJ/JK axle upgrade kit. I would also get thier 1" drop pitman arm if there is still any bump steer.

Thanks for the input guys.

TN_WJ
11-14-2010, 01:50 AM
No to all of the above

cowboy63b
11-14-2010, 11:16 AM
Is this flip something I should be considering as part of my planned KOR 2.75" lift? I know everything helps usually, but with such a small lift, are the gains worth it?

Also, if I did do this, I would also working to eliminate the bump steer it causes, so I've contacted IRO about thier drop bracket/cross memeber from thier WJ/JK axle upgrade kit. I would also get thier 1" drop pitman arm if there is still any bump steer.

Thanks for the input guys.


With only 2.75" of lift, the changes in your suspension geomotry (sp?) are so neglageable that yes the mods would help, but would be pointless.

Backwoods Rambler
11-15-2010, 01:23 PM
Well, I guess I'd have to disagree now that my steering stabilizer is bent and my tie rod has scratches on it from my recent trip through Poison Spider in Moab.

I just heard back from IRO, here's what they said:




Hi JD,
We don't have that particular part on the website by itself. If you are interested, it is $129.99 and you would have to call to order it. Please let me know if you have any other questions. I'll be happy to help! you can king of see the backside of the trackbar subframe here: http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/DSC001211.jpg



Thank You,
Josh Ruppert
josh@ironrockoffroad.com
www.ironrockoffroad.com
952-210-7185

WJJEEPIN
11-17-2010, 08:42 PM
At that lift it wont be worth your money or time. i wouldnt touch that till you get to some adjustable arms and 4" of lift.

I have the 6" lift and with the flip I got consistant bump steer from 4" of lift and short arms up to 6" and long arms.

I will know how the kit from IRO corrects it soon.

I just picked up the TB drop from IRO and a 2" pitman arm drop, it is at the shop getting welded up (rear axle) so I have yet to take it for a spin on the new setup.

That being said the TB drop from IRO will NOT work if you have their kit and the axle pushed fwd. i have their high clearance long arms and its pushed fwd 3/4 to 1" and it hits their iron y bracket.

**EDIT** You can do their tie rod flip with out mucking with the Trac-bar so your geometry will be un changed.

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-WTRFK

Backwoods Rambler
11-18-2010, 05:41 PM
**EDIT** You can do their tie rod flip with out mucking with the Trac-bar so your geometry will be un changed.

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-WTRFK

I suppose I'll just stick with a SS relocation kit.

I saw that kit; I don't like heims, so I won't run it.

WJJEEPIN
11-19-2010, 11:09 PM
They work great but To each their own.

Just get the JKS HD tube from KOR and call it done cuz At 2" lift with 31 your going to bang the SHIT out of everything.

Backwoods Rambler
11-22-2010, 04:10 PM
Just get the JKS HD tube from KOR and call it done.

Already planned ;) along with a RSS front & rear diff covers.



At 2" lift with 31 your going to bang the SHIT out of everything.

Yup, that's why I'm getting a 3" lift ;) (KOR discontinued the 2.75" kit, so now I'm thinking IRO 3")

ArloGuthroJeep
11-22-2010, 04:41 PM
Already planned ;) along with a RSS front & rear diff covers.



Yup, that's why I'm getting a 3" lift ;) (KOR discontinued the 2.75" kit, so now I'm thinking IRO 3")

Won't be getting a RSS diff cover for the D44a - only one that makes one for that axle right now is BTF I believe.

Backwoods Rambler
11-23-2010, 02:46 PM
Won't be getting a RSS diff cover for the D44a - only one that makes one for that axle right now is BTF I believe.

Good to know ;)

WJJEEPIN
12-25-2010, 11:58 PM
Got the IRO TB and PA drop in and running. This is the best it has driven since i flipped the drag link up top. The bumpsteer got worse when I swapped the rubi express for the softer bilsteins. Highly recommend this setup for anyone with bumpsteer.

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q51/btwnmak/Ford%209/REBIRTH%20of%20the%20DUBJAY/DSC_0012.jpg

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q51/btwnmak/Ford%209/REBIRTH%20of%20the%20DUBJAY/DSC_0013.jpg

merlin
02-09-2011, 06:28 PM
Has there been any update on the knuckle side TRE on the drag link or is the RHD TRE from the dealer still the only option for this particular mod?