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FearTheDentist
01-27-2006, 11:17 PM
OK- I've had Cody's rig for 2 weeks and already managed to f%^ something up. I had it on the trail last weekend and started hearing an occasional loud "click" when the front end had a bit of stress on it, mostly coming from the pass. side. Went to track it down this PM and found this:
http://members.cox.net/briancahilldds/D44_crack/D44%20crack%202.jpg
The collar where the axle tube goes in is cracked pretty bad and it looks like the axle tube has shifted a bit. Looks pretty serious to me- is this repairable or should I start shopping for a new front axle? If I have to replace it, is it reasonable to think I can take my chances in it for a while? GSSW is coming up and I'm supposed to lead a few trails- if I have to replace it I'm not sure I can get it done in time.
Thanks!

nate
01-28-2006, 12:09 AM
What'd I'd do is make some kind of truss to support it to get you by... but ultimately, I think that housing is junk. Is it cracked like that in the back as well?

Looks like the left hydro line is chaffed pretty deeply, take a look to make sure it's not about ready to bust.

FearTheDentist
01-28-2006, 12:22 AM
Not cracked in the back yet, but I'm sure it will be soon if I keep running it like this. The truss is a very good idea (why didn't I think of that?) thanks!

My other concern is alignment of the axle tube. I've never done any gear work, but I understand it requires pretty tight tolerances. Eyeballing it, it looks as if the axle tube is a bit crooked. I worry that if I only get it eyeball straight I'll end up ruining my gears.

What are your thoughts on this? Keep in mind it's a trail only rig.

Good eyes on the hydro line :smt023 I just had a replacement made this afternoon, went out to replace it this PM but the crack kinda sidetracked me (I seem to have developed a crack problem :D)

Jim311
01-28-2006, 12:36 AM
I doubt the issue will be with the gears. Your alignment will definitely be off, but that's not even really that much of an issue on a trail rig. If the tube breaks off it will probably destroy your axle shafts, but I imagine the gears will be fine. I'd straighten it out as much as possible, weld up the crack, and then maybe truss it to get you through the GSSW, and then start shopping for another axle.

ATL ZJ
01-28-2006, 12:50 AM
This happened to my buddy Tim. He's not on here much anymore, so I doubt he'll chime in, but he ended up just welding the snot out of it. Given, you're welding cast to steel, so it's probably not the best idea, but for a short-term solution, it's worked for him without any issues. His isn't a street driven rig either, so alignment specs aren't a concern. Hope that helps at least some.

nate
01-28-2006, 01:01 AM
Really I wouldn't worry a ton about the gears since it's not too bad at this point. Worst case your out another $150 for new gears.

This is under a Blazer, but it did the same thing..

http://98jeepzj.com/photos/images/393-2.jpg

How we "fixed" it

http://98jeepzj.com/photos/images/398-2.jpg

10 bolt that did the same..

http://98jeepzj.com/photos/images/387-2.jpg

FearTheDentist
01-28-2006, 01:20 AM
How we "fixed" it



LOL- that makes me feel a lot better. I hope to avoid the fate of that 10 bolt...

I guess I'm a little paranoid after what I did to my WJ- I have an '04 WJ limited that's pretty built, bent the pass side front axle tube last spring doing something stupid (gas first ask later :D). Ended up putting a Currie built Ford 9" in- it sure is beefy, but set me back almost 5K by the time everything was done. I was worried I would be facing something similar here.

Thanks for all the help!

JohnBoulderCO
01-28-2006, 01:37 AM
How did you break this one?

FearTheDentist
01-28-2006, 02:46 AM
How did you break this one?
:shake: :drinkers:

I was wondering if you'd chime in on this one- weren't we just talking about trusses a week or 2 ago? I seem to have a thing for really tweaking axles don't I? Funny thing is this happened on the same trail where I screwed up my WJ axle...guess I never learn.

As to how it happened, I honestly have no idea. I just started hearing an occasional "pop" from the front end that got me worried something was wrong. I hadn't reached the tough section of the trail and hadn't had any "incidents". I'm positive it wasn't cracked when I got the rig 2 weeks ago though- the rig ran fine the first weekend I had it, and it's obviosly a fresh crack- the exposed metal is very clean and there's no oil or dirt in the crack at all...

20 minutes after noticing the "popping" I blew one of the hydraulic lines to my steering ram for no apparent reason and had to drive the 5 or so miles out of the trail w\ no power steering (that really sucked!).

I'm really beginning to wonder if this is some kind of karma thing. I know Cody had a lot in this vehicle and had a lot of reservations about selling it- if Jeeps have souls maybe it felt the same and isn't taking kindly to me :(

JohnBoulderCO
01-28-2006, 09:48 AM
I use to think trussing my D30 would be a waste of time, now it is on the to-do-list.

I bet if you can get your D44 jigged up to ensure it is a straight, a truss could be welded on to fix it and make it stronger.

JohnBoulderCO
01-28-2006, 10:37 AM
if Jeeps have souls maybe it felt the same and isn't taking kindly to me :(

Have you seen the movie Christine? :D

nate
01-28-2006, 02:35 PM
I dunno... there won't be any tears shed if my D30 breaks in half.

Cody
01-28-2006, 03:00 PM
I would probably have it welded up and maybe fab up a simple truss of some sort. That should hold it pretty well and get you buy. Like I said last night, I'm sure you could dig up an empty 44 housing for dirt cheap out of a full size bronco and swap everything accross. Maybe be into it a couple hundred bucks and a few hours labor. The only expensive part of that is having the gears setup.

I'm just sick to my stomach that you've had these problems all ready. If there is anything I can do to help let me know.

Cody

FearTheDentist
01-28-2006, 06:56 PM
I'm just sick to my stomach that you've had these problems all ready. If there is anything I can do to help let me know.

Cody

Don't sweat it, honest! I don't hold you responsible in any way. It would be ridiculous NOT to expect to have mechical issues on a pretty regular basis in this kind of activity- if I wanted reliable I'd drive a Honda :D I've seen what this rig is capable of and full expect to run into bugs and what not on a routine basis, it just comes w\ the territory. Besides- I'm sure you've heard how I drive :D

I saw this on ebay- looked like it might be a nearly direct replacement (except gears)- can I get some opinions on it?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=8033801155&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Cody
01-28-2006, 10:14 PM
nope, thast for one of the smaller broncos. your axle is from a full size axle. I believe 78.5 until 80 something would work. Not sure what year they changed but the 78.5's nad 79's will work.

That axle is about 10 inches narrower if I remember correctly.

Cody

DCHZJ
01-28-2006, 10:32 PM
Bronco's went to a TTB in the 80's Check the 78-79 Full Size Bronco's and F150's for the Dana 44 Front. But if your running Full width axles then the Early Bronco's are no good.
Also watch the axles in the F250's as some are leaf sprung some newer ones are ttb and so forth.

Also sent you a PM.

JpRngr
01-29-2006, 03:15 AM
Can we say Dana 60 time?:smt064 You should be able to pick one up for around the same price as the auction you linked. You'd have to regear either one. :D

Of course then you'd have to do something about the rear, too. Unless you found some 5 lug hubs for the 60.;)


Corey


Of course I remember saying this to Cody for a couple years now!:D

FearTheDentist
01-29-2006, 04:24 AM
Of course then you'd have to do something about the rear, too. Unless you found some 5 lug hubs for the 60.;)

Of course I remember saying this to Cody for a couple years now!:D

That's the kicker....this has been a bad year for axles. I just finished putting a Currie built Ford 9" in my WJ, and the wallet (ie my wife's patience) is getting stretched a bit thin at this point :D

Narzuhl sent me this: http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57461
Looks good to me, what do y'all think?

Another thought I had is just having the axle rebuilt w\a new center housing. Doing a brief search on ebay I came up w\ this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=8032071446&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
The description doesn't list it as fitting the year of Bronco my axle's from, so my ? is this- are center housings of D44's the same regardless of application (seems like wishful thinking)? Rock guards etc are universal for D44's, which implies the bolt pattern is "universal" but I've never opened one up before- is the inside different for different applications or can I expect to be able to just swap over gears etc?
I've always wanted to learn how a differential "works", I guess this is my golden opportunity...Hopefully it's not a trend though, 'cuz I've always wanted to learn how an automatic tranny works too, and at the rate I'm going.....

nmzj
01-29-2006, 03:02 PM
The center section that you linked last is for IFS. It won't work on your housing, atleast that is what I've come up with so far.

DCHZJ
01-29-2006, 03:17 PM
Yep you have to watch that. The 80's Bronco's and F150's were TTB (IFS if you like) not solid axle. The F250 came in 2 types TTB and Solid axle. Unless you plan for some welding of new brackets stay away from the 80-90 F250 as the solid axle models are leaf sprung.

Cody
01-29-2006, 06:38 PM
Narzuhl sent me this: http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57461
Looks good to me, what do y'all think?


thats exactly what you want. Exact same axle. You'd just have to swap over the gears/locker/alloy shafts etc and hav someone modify the coil cups to match what is on that axle....nothing major. You probably would no longer need ball joints either....

I would see if he's willing to ship that thing via forward air. 150 for an axle with all new seals/bearings etc. is a pretty good deal.

Also, it may not be the case that the axle is junk. You may be able to truss it and weld it up and be just fine. I would look into that first and foremost before pulling the trigger on an axle.

As for the front 60, it wouldn't be quite as easy as just buying the axle or else I would have done it long ago. You'd have to redo the front suspension, address the different bolt patterns front and rear, match gears...locker....etc. With all the fab work involved in that you would drive the initional 800-1000 dollar tag on a 60 up a couple more g's. I would see if the crack is repairable good enough to wheel and then keep your eye's open for a replacement housing locally.

Cody

FearTheDentist
02-02-2006, 12:50 AM
Anybody have any idea what the shipping weight and approximate dimensions would be for a Dana 44?

OverkillZJ
02-02-2006, 12:55 AM
yeah, BIG.

Those are full widths aren't they? Assume created up a good 70" wide, and weighing... hmmm.... I'll guess 380.

OverkillZJ
02-02-2006, 12:57 AM
you would drive the initional 800-1000 dollar tag on a 60 up a couple more g's

Cody


Yeahhhhhh..... I added a few extra zero's to my front 60 build. It adds up fast. front 60's in their native form aren't that great. :smt119

Cody
02-02-2006, 02:59 AM
Brian, your best bet is Forward Air. If he'll put the axle on a pallet and get it to a forward aire station, it wouldn't be totally rediculously expensive. Probably 200 still, but that puts you at 350 shipped and thats really not bad for what you're getting. Hopefully he would have a forward air station nearby....

gonecheenin
02-07-2006, 08:02 PM
I had a problem with cracking (in that same spot) & spinning my 12 bolt center section on the right tube with 39.5 boggers after i added my traction bar to the right side tube
(in my defense the first time it spun i was pulling my neighbors bobcat out of a stuck situation that his F350 super duty could't budge it from)

Just pull the center section out so you don't over heat the bearings, jack the housing up a bit to level it as best as you can, hammer the crack shut if you can, grab some 7018 1/8 arc rod, turn the welder up to about 250 amps and weld the snot outta that crack & the joint where the center section & tube meet (the contraction from cooling will pull it all back together very tightly), put a basic truss welded over the pumpkin to the other tube and you'll never have another problem with it unless it was so severly outta alignment it side loads the locker/shafts.

Thats what i did with my rear 12 bolt and it's never gave me any grief since.