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norton
12-09-2005, 09:59 PM
In the past couple weeks my driver side rear wheel has been making noise. at first only when i hit a pot hole, now it is nearing almost constant. the noise sounds like a bushing has gone bad (clunking).

yesterday i got around to taking off my wheel for an inspection. all bushings are in good shape. i can however grab the [outer part] drum brake and move it in and out about 1/8th"(ish) and it makes the same noise ive been hearing.

i just consulted my FSM and it says its that it is most likely my wheel bearing.

my questions are as follows:

1. the FSM says i need "Bearing Removal Tool Set 6310 (T.Ar 960-02)" there is a picture of it on the next page but ive never seen anything like it before. where can i find it, possibly to just rent.. Autozone?

2. same question, but its for the installation of the new bearing, but its called "Installer 6436 and Handle C-4171"

3. same question again but this tool is for the installation of a new seal, called "Installer 6437 and Handle C-4171"

maybe someone can dumb down those tool names for me and where i can find them. also, how much can i expect to spend replacing the bearing/seal?

thanks :supz:

Troy
12-10-2005, 11:38 AM
They're most likely referring to parts like these: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=1601&store=snapon-store

You should be able to rent the tools somewhere since it's a pretty normal thing to pull and install new bearings and seals.

Did you check the normal stuff like track bar bushings and shock bushings too? Dont forget that if you're running c-clipped axles then you will have some in/out play when you pull on your axle shafts depending on the thickness of the clip.

Sudz
12-10-2005, 11:57 AM
FYI: FSM speciality tool part numbers are from here:

http://www.miller.spx.com/

norton
12-10-2005, 08:35 PM
They're most likely referring to parts like these: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=1601&store=snapon-store

You should be able to rent the tools somewhere since it's a pretty normal thing to pull and install new bearings and seals.

Did you check the normal stuff like track bar bushings and shock bushings too? Dont forget that if you're running c-clipped axles then you will have some in/out play when you pull on your axle shafts depending on the thickness of the clip.

i checked the shock bushings, U/L CA bushings. not the tracbar though.

i stopped checking bushings because when i started playing with the hub i could reproduce the sound so i figured that was my problem.

BTW I gots the d35 so yes c-clipped. i know there should be a little bit of play but i didnt think it should be making the noise it does when going in/out?

i hope its not dangerous to drive it around with a bearing like that going bad. i dont have any other mode of transportation, and my brothers teggy just died on the highway today (we be thinkin its the distributor)

delawhere
12-10-2005, 11:40 PM
I'm having the same problem with my front I've been through 3 sets in a year and don't know what's going wrong

norton
12-11-2005, 07:42 AM
I'm having the same problem with my front I've been through 3 sets in a year and don't know what's going wrong

3 sets of wheel bearings?? are you sure thats whats wrong? have you been doing the work yourself or been having a shop do it? if you just think thats the problem and tell the shop to replace it im sure they will and charge you because they want to make money.

if you have been doing the work yourself .. when you change the beargins, do they look worn? if this is the case, maybe you have a bent shaft or something that keeps causing it to fail? i dunno im just guessing now for your sake.

delawhere
12-11-2005, 09:11 AM
I'm doing it my self and after the first time they went out I did have to change the front shafts but now I don't know I just did a pair this week because you could take my front wheels and move them like an inch up and down and side to side its crazy

Troy
12-11-2005, 04:44 PM
Use only Timken bearings. I have seen others go bad way too early.

delawhere
12-11-2005, 07:24 PM
Cool ill have to give them a try on the next go around

OverkillZJ
12-11-2005, 07:45 PM
Use only Timken bearings. I have seen others go bad way too early.

x2!

Krash80
12-13-2005, 01:49 PM
ya'll are comparing front wheel bearings to rears and there's nothing at all in common or even related between the two. And if you're going through front wheel-bearing/hub assemblies like that, using timken hubs won't make a difference...i went through the same problems SEVERAL times with many timken hubs and the only solution was to get rid of my D30's once and for all.

Norton-
are you getting the noise constantly as the wheel goes around or only at certain times, specifically when cornering or changing direction? A bad wheel bearing or carrier bearing will likely be audible at all times while the vehicle is in motion...not just intermittently....and it's usually more of a grinding noise than a clunking. Long ago in a galaxy far far away when i had a 35 rear under my jeep, it made a loud clunk due to the c-clip design of the axle (with the jeep jacked up you could hear the noise coming from the diff if you pushed and pulled on the wheel from the side) for about a month everytime i turned, and for some reason doing a rear brake job made the problem go away.

Troy
12-13-2005, 04:06 PM
ya'll are comparing front wheel bearings to rears and there's nothing at all in common or even related between the two. And if you're going through front wheel-bearing/hub assemblies like that, using timken hubs won't make a difference...i went through the same problems SEVERAL times with many timken hubs and the only solution was to get rid of my D30's once and for all.


A bearing is a bearing regardless of what application it's manufactured for. I'm more or less speaking for the reputation of the manufacturer and prior experiences (as well as stories of bearing failures that i have heard). I agree that going through hub assemblies that quickly is terrible and there's most likely an underlying cause. I didn't even know that Timken makes a hub assembly! You're talking about the self-contained hub unit right?

Krash80
12-13-2005, 04:39 PM
A bearing is a bearing regardless of what application it's manufactured for. I'm more or less speaking for the reputation of the manufacturer and prior experiences (as well as stories of bearing failures that i have heard). I agree that going through hub assemblies that quickly is terrible and there's most likely an underlying cause. I didn't even know that Timken makes a hub assembly! You're talking about the self-contained hub unit right?

Yes, i'm talking about the front hub/unit-bearing assemblies. I believe the Timken ones are available at autozone and come with a one year warranty.

And i totally agree with you....maybe i just didn't get my point across before. Timken has a reputation for being one of the best bearing manufacturers....I was just trying to say that if he's going through normal (ie. non-Timken) unit-bearings that quickly, then he's got a bigger problem that's causing the failures that's not going to be cured by using a different brand of bearing. When I had the problem of going through hubs like crazy, I tried 3 different D30 front axles (2 ZJ ones and one HP30 from an XJ) and every different brand of unit-bearing I could find, and nothing cured my problem. I finally came to the conclusion that 33" tires and agressive on-road driving were just simply too much stress for the D30 components to handle.

-Ron-

Troy
12-13-2005, 04:56 PM
Yes, i'm talking about the front hub/unit-bearing assemblies. I believe the Timken ones are available at autozone and come with a one year warranty.

And i totally agree with you....maybe i just didn't get my point across before. Timken has a reputation for being one of the best bearing manufacturers....I was just trying to say that if he's going through normal (ie. non-Timken) unit-bearings that quickly, then he's got a bigger problem that's causing the failures that's not going to be cured by using a different brand of bearing. When I had the problem of going through hubs like crazy, I tried 3 different D30 front axles (2 ZJ ones and one HP30 from an XJ) and every different brand of unit-bearing I could find, and nothing cured my problem. I finally came to the conclusion that 33" tires and agressive on-road driving were just simply too much stress for the D30 components to handle.

-Ron-

Ahh. We're on the same page now. :cheer:

norton
12-15-2005, 09:00 PM
Norton-
are you getting the noise constantly as the wheel goes around or only at certain times, specifically when cornering or changing direction? A bad wheel bearing or carrier bearing will likely be audible at all times while the vehicle is in motion...not just intermittently....and it's usually more of a grinding noise than a clunking. Long ago in a galaxy far far away when i had a 35 rear under my jeep, it made a loud clunk due to the c-clip design of the axle (with the jeep jacked up you could hear the noise coming from the diff if you pushed and pulled on the wheel from the side) for about a month everytime i turned, and for some reason doing a rear brake job made the problem go away.

it is audible not at all times, but it does do it regardless of whether or not im turning or changing direction. since the nnoise went away after your brake job, you never found the exact source of the problem?

maybe i should just do a brake job. ive been needing to replace my pads up front, they are starting to squeal a little bit. (i replaced my rotors about 5-7k ago..) i guess i might as well fawk with the rear brakes too. is it worth upgrading to discs in the back while im at it? to be honest i dont know shit about drums and have never worked on them. maybe i should check out my FSM...

thanks so far guys

2jeepsforus
12-15-2005, 09:25 PM
In my experiences, when I had a bad wheel bearing it made a growling sound, quite low and most noticeably when I was turning slowly. Although a half shaft will make more of a whine and clunk when the weight of the vehicle is applied to that side.

I just replaced my wheel bearing for $120 bucks and it ending up being my CV jointed half shaft.

Dave

norton
12-16-2005, 02:16 AM
In my experiences, when I had a bad wheel bearing it made a growling sound, quite low and most noticeably when I was turning slowly. Although a half shaft will make more of a whine and clunk when the weight of the vehicle is applied to that side.

I just replaced my wheel bearing for $120 bucks and it ending up being my CV jointed half shaft.

Dave

im talking about my REAR driver side. no cv or u joints...

what was wrong with the shaft? or was it the cv joint that busted?

goddam this is pissing me off not knowing wtf is making that sound!

BTW, definatly a clunk, not a whining/growling. i still havent checked my TB bushing so i might do that tommorow after my final

2jeepsforus
12-16-2005, 04:39 AM
CV joint was wearing out, I've come to believe my Jeep had a few water crossing when I got it...:punish:

Did you check your diff fluid? maybe a caliper hanging up or not tight... can be quite a bit of things..... Maybe U-joints on the driveshaft, just a guess on that one, that will clunk when u put it into gear and take off

Dave

DR.BOOST
12-21-2005, 08:10 PM
your answer to the tool question are simple. you can rent the axle bearing pullers from autozone. you will also need a slide hammer too. as far as the installers go, you can either use a bearing race driver, also at autozone, to drive them in. if you don't like that idea you can grind down the outer side of the old bearing enough to slide it in freely, but clean the filings off very good. it won't go in too far, so don't worry about hitting it too hard. finally the seal. use the bearing race installer with the flat side of the head facing out.