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8WR_ZJ
12-04-2005, 03:49 PM
Here is the deal. My gay 249 is starting to fawk up and it needs replacing. My question is what would yall do? I have a free dana 300 that i can get an adapter for from Jbconversions which is only like 10 minutes away. Or find a 231 do an sye, probaly rebuild both either way i go. I need a new rear driveshaft B/c mine is to short and i didnt want to have to buy one and then replace it in a few weeks. Any thought or opinions on this subject. Any input would be greatly appericated!

OverkillZJ
12-04-2005, 03:55 PM
If you can make the 300 work, gear driven > chain, plus you can twin stick it.

Jim311
12-04-2005, 05:30 PM
If I recall correctly the 300 is much larger than a 231 or 249. It's definitely a stronger and better case, but some floor modifications migh need to happen.

fr3db3ar
12-04-2005, 07:08 PM
Since this is an either/or....If you can make it work I'd choose the 300 every time. Make sure you write it up :smt035

BiggerZJ
12-04-2005, 07:10 PM
another thing to think about running the 300, im asuming its a flip kit. depending on the adapter the 300 will sit alot closer to your trans since your original case has the low range section inbetween the chain and your trans. this could possibly require trans crossmember mods for clearance and obviously a shorter front driveshaft and longer rear driveshaft. i still would recomend the 300

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
12-04-2005, 08:44 PM
If I recall correctly the 300 is much larger than a 231 or 249. It's definitely a stronger and better case, but some floor modifications migh need to happen.

the 300 is smaller. the only floor modifications needed is to probably cut out and area for the twin sticks.

As for getting it to work (ie linkages, flip kits, clocking ring) you'll rack up ALOT more costs than the relatively bolt-in 231.

8WR_ZJ
12-04-2005, 10:54 PM
thanks for the help yall. i am going to talk to the owner of jbconversions on tuesday about if it plausible to do a 300 swap. i know last jeep meeting he mentioned being able to make an adapter/ clocking rind all in one piece and it wouldn't be much more, about 350 bucks. not a big deal considering the cheapest decent 231 was around 150-200 dallors. So i am kinda weighing my options. Thanks for all the help. please keep it comming.

Swamp boy
12-05-2005, 07:26 PM
Keep in mind what Bigger ZJ said.. You will need a new tranny crossmember or at least seriously modify yours .. But if you are doing a long arm you will have to make a new one anyway.. If you are buying a long arm kit.. You will have to modify the crossmember that comes with it.. And if you are going to do 60's (Like your sig says.. ) you might want to do them when you do the t-case or you will be buying driveshafts twice..

You could always get a 231 and use it now (Without a SYE) with your stock shafts.. And when you are ready to put in the Long arm and 60's do the 300 then..Then you can sell the 231 and make some of your money back...:D

YOu can do the 231 swap in an afternoon without changing anything.. IE Driveshafts crossmember what have you...

Good luck.. Post some pics up when you get started...




On a side note ...Do you know RichardZJ... He is in your neck of the woods kinda.. (Lafayette area...)

Carl

EMTimZJ
07-12-2006, 12:09 AM
Early Bronco Dana 20. :smt040

-Tim

8WR_ZJ
07-21-2006, 03:18 PM
yep that is what i have just about got done. made a crawl box out of the 249. and attached the 20 behind it. got it all drawn up in CAD just waiting for the machine shop to open up for the new semester. then i can make everything and put it in. we just got a new cnc machine and new mill, it will be able to cut splines hahahahaha.

EMTimZJ
07-21-2006, 10:11 PM
yep that is what i have just about got done. made a crawl box out of the 249. and attached the 20 behind it. got it all drawn up in CAD just waiting for the machine shop to open up for the new semester. then i can make everything and put it in. we just got a new cnc machine and new mill, it will be able to cut splines hahahahaha.

I can't tell if you are mocking me... cuz that's what I did...


-Tim

8WR_ZJ
07-22-2006, 05:57 PM
sorry if it came off like that but i am not mocking you. i figured id use a 20 b/c of the passenger output. id would be easier to set up for shifters and i wouldnt have to flip it. plus i would rather the low range of the 20 than the low range of the 300. it gives me more selection in ranges. i dont need a 7.1:1 low low range of the 300/249 combo id rather the 5.44:1 low low range of the 20/249. i got bored sitting in a engineering desgin class and thought of the idea. i guess it just made since? have you u got yours done yet?

EMTimZJ
07-22-2006, 08:41 PM
sorry if it came off like that but i am not mocking you. i figured id use a 20 b/c of the passenger output. id would be easier to set up for shifters and i wouldnt have to flip it. plus i would rather the low range of the 20 than the low range of the 300. it gives me more selection in ranges. i dont need a 7.1:1 low low range of the 300/249 combo id rather the 5.44:1 low low range of the 20/249. i got bored sitting in a engineering desgin class and thought of the idea. i guess it just made since? have you u got yours done yet?

Oh hey no problem, I just thought you were laughing at the idea:D

Anyway, are you refering to a CJ passenger drop D20 or an (EB) early bronco drivers drop dana 20?

CJ low is 2.03:1 (basically 2:1) so I am guessing that is how you are getting the 5.44:1 low?

I'm setting it up using the EB T-shift D20 and the 249, it gives a 6.69:1 when both in low. T-shift D20 is 2.46:1 low.

Mine it almost complete. I found out that I have to flip the 249 since the front out-put on the dana 20 does not clear the chopped side of the 249. So that means more drilling and tapping for me...

The mid-shaft should be here monday/tuesday. I drafted the plans and had them sent to a spline cutter since I do not have access to a hobbing machine.

As soon as I figure out what t-case you are actually using, my next questions are: are you using the intermediate housing of the D20? and if you are not, how are your shift rails clearing?

I'm using the intermediate housing and the rails clear fine, however, I do not see it clearing if you don't use it.

HTH

-Tim

8WR_ZJ
08-01-2006, 08:54 AM
i am using the early bronco case. i think it came out of a 73 not positive but pretty sure. i am not using the intermediate housing as of right now. i was thinking of making a spacer if i had to once i got the two cases together and see if i needed it. but now that you mention i remeber how tight it was. idk i may have to look at again.

EMTimZJ
08-01-2006, 10:08 AM
73 EB D20 should have a 2.34:1 low.

What tranny is this going behind?

If it is the stock auto or AX-15, you might want to fab up some sort of spacer /adapter to join the two cases. My combo is pretty long, but I'm also swapping in a NP435 which is considerably shorter than the auto. My driveshafts both get longer, front by 2" and rear by 1".

-Tim

EMTimZJ
08-03-2006, 12:02 AM
A little sneak preview before I start a build-up thread:

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j128/EMTimZJ11/Drivetrain/July52006009.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j128/EMTimZJ11/Drivetrain/July52006008.jpg

...and after 3 months I finally have my mid-shaft:smt068
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j128/EMTimZJ11/Drivetrain/July52006017.jpg

through hardened 4140

I still have to flip the 249 box and re-drill and re-tap the adapter.

-Tim

8WR_ZJ
08-03-2006, 08:51 AM
nice very nice. cant wait for that build up thread! mine is a little different but not all the much.